• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.357-370
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• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.11-22
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to provide beauticians with the fundamental material to use effectively heat permanent wave in beauty industry as well as their customer's satisfaction. It carried out an experiment with damaged hair of a woman in her late twenties to investigate the change of physical and morphological characteristics by its water content when performing heat permanent wave. After spreading 0g, 1g, 2g, 3g, and 4g of water on damaged hair respectively, heat permanent wave was treated and the change of hair was observed. The change of physical characteristic was compared through permanent wave form of hair, tensile strength and elongation. The change of morphological characteristic was observed through Scanning Electron Microscope(SEM) and Transmission Electron Microscope(TEM). The result of experiment on the physical specificity revealed that permanent wave form was the most ideal when the water content was 2g, also 3g. Though the materials with much moisture content formed the results were not satisfied. The material with 0g of water content didn't make the wave. In terms of tensile strength and elongation, tensile strength was generally reduced as per the damaged degree of hair. On the contrary, elongation was increased. It observed the changes of morphological characteristic that the damage on hair cuticle was deepen, as its moisture content was decreased, and cuticle's surface was worn away. The observation of fine structure on hair section by transmission electronic microscope also certainly showed the result that damaged hair having experience with chemical treatment had got much damaged to hair cuticle as well as hair cortex. Generally chemical treatment makes hair damaged. Under consideration of this aspect, the ultimate goal of this thesis is to minimize the damage of hair caused by chemical treatment and get the satisfaction on the hair style. According to the result of experiment, the damaged hair whose moisture content was 3g showed the best permanent wave form.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.99-113
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to compare the social image and the external image of a Korean woman in 1970s and find out that the make-up can provide an important clue to examine the image of a woman in a given period. The research scope covered 10 top news of the daily newspapers and articles of women's magazines. A focus was made to an analysis on words and photos from them. The relationship of each image scale was examined by comparing the linguistic image scale and the visual image scale. The results were as follows : First, a frugal and tidy image. It was the look of our tidy, simple, traditional and classic woman. Second, an image of a cute and pure lady of refined manners. In 1970s, women were supposed to be 'a loving wife', a cultured female image with a faithful role of a 'wise mother' and a lady of refined manners as the best value. Third, a frivolous and decadent image. Double-faced image of a woman which included the women, who had to live as the lady of refined manners during the daytime and seductive woman during the night. Fourth, an image of a contemporary working woman. It was the image as a chic, confident and dignified working woman requested by the society of the times. Namely, it can be understood that women had a make-up of a soft and gorgeous tone as an expression of a will to keep a confident and female aspect in the course of working in the society by the women experiencing 1970s, the turbulent period. Consequently, it is possible to understand that the make-up was utilized as a means to express an ideal beauty of the time pursuant to the historical background or feature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.163-180
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• 1998

In western clothing, woman's body was port-rayed sexually as the distinction of sex was appeared, and the parts of body contain some kind of symbol of sex. Woman's body was diversly accentuated according to the divers ideal beauty concepts pursuits in the different periods. Today, in a Post-industrial Society whose social structure is very divers and complicated, the interpretation of woman's body reveals so various as the complex social structure. The purpose of this study is to comprehend the various interpretations of woman's body in the contemporary clothing. The concrete purposes of this study is as follows. First, this study is to define the concept of natural body and built body by differentiating the parts of body and searching for the sexual symbols accentuated in the western clothing. Second this study aims to review, the histori-cal process of prejudged distinction of sex in the western clothing, and to analyse the con-temporary sociocultural which forced to change this prejudged distinction of sex. Third, on the bases of this analses, this study also aims to present various interpretation on divers aspects of woman's body portrayed in the contemporary clothing. The interpretation of woman's body in the contemporary clothing were as follow. First, it is a body interpreted as a natural and neutral body which is based not so much on prejudged division of sex as on the expression of the body structure. And, it is a decomposed and recomposed body which is based on plastic principles. This body is portrayed by a layer-ing and wrapping which interrogated such traditional symbols of western clothing as collar, sleeve or trousers, skirt, etc. Second, it is a sexually symbolized body. This body is display-ed by exposure or sexual accentuation in the clothing. To conclude, a body interpreted in the contemporary clothing is no more a body accentuated by division of sex, but a body which per-mits indefinite hypotheses and interpretations under synthetic imagination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.69-84
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• 2008

Considering that star reflects the image of current society, analyzing fashion of celebrity is to read ideal type and demands of beauty of the era. Especially the rock music-represents youth culture that last on present day-born in 1960's, and it is considered to a significant decade in pop music history. Thus this research will analysis rock star's fashions in iconological view of E. Panofsky. The aim of this document is Clarifying how the fashion of pop stars appeared and what formed its worth. As a result of analyzing fashions of rock star in 1960's, it is available to find these sameness and difference. The Mods borrowed images of the past, and introduce the elite modernism and shows very urban style. The Folky and the Psychedelic showed post-structuralism propensity against industrial society, in the case of the Folky it induced styles that symbolize labor class to realize social worth. And as an aftereffect of war and repulsion of commercial worth, they embody nature-returning peasant look so that it shows pastoral mood in total. The Psychedelic express somewhat struggling escapism and it generated illusionary images with quests to superego and glorification to psychedelic status. The Folky and the Psychedelic are same in the side of introducing existentialism, this occurred by using ethnic factor. But the Folky showed plain outlook by pop propensity, on the other hand, the Psychedelic showed magnificent outlook such as optical art, pop art, and futurism ought to express merrymaking culture. And common feature of these is introduction of unisex mod which is came after the change of gender role. Thus each star or group has professed special ideology into their culture and it is reflected to acts which is including music and dress style. This affair is analyzed like these two things. The mass of people schemes their identity with inducing special ideology to their culture at the first. And the purpose to archive cultural hegemony in inter-social class at the next.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.340-355
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• 1995

purpose of this study was to trace historically the causes of the visual inconsistency of seXual ilT'age in dress with versatile perspectives. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of sexuality in dress were precceded. To trace the factors of the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress, historical studies from ancient Egypt to modern ages were done. And then, the factors of the visual inconsist\ulcornerency of sexual image in dress were identified. The synthetic results were as follows; L The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress shows the phenomena that men introduce the traditional feminine image in dress (ex. X silhouette, skirts), whereas women do the traditional masculine image (ex. Y silhouette, pants), which arouse androgynous image in appearance. And, it also indicates that men or women wear the dress excluded the traditional masculine image as well as the traditional feminine image, which arouse neutral image in appearance. 2. The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress have been existed historically, from Egypt to modern ages. 3. The visual inconsistency of sexual image III dress was caus~d by various factors as follows; First, ideal beauty of the times which did not distinguish between masculinity and femininity resulted in the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress. Second, as a means of seeking pleasure, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was used. Third, as a means of expressing ideology, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was selected. Forth,in religious meaning,the visual inconsistency ofl sexual image in dress was appeared. Fifth,popularization of sports and occupational role made woman adopt the masculine image in dress in view of the aspects of functionalism. Sixth,Undevelopment of taloring contributed to generate androgenous image in dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.58-67
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• 2006

This study of popular culture is in based on an academic point of view and based thereon an investigation of popular culture from a fashion standpoint follows. This study is to suggest that the popular culture theory can be a basic framework to examine the characteristics of fashion Icon and to verify that the characteristics of Fashion Icon is similar to the codes of the popular culture of today, This study considers the characteristics of popular culture as commercialism, mass-media relationship and a symbolic interaction. The images of movie stars projected through diverse entertainment media are the very fashion icons and strong role models that are copied by consumers. Now, the public take the lead in cultural industry, and they create new images as positive receivers of the images of fashion icons, not as mere imitators or followers. Fashion irons have contributed to diversifying the styles of ideal feminine beauty, and their lift pattern and image are one of the major sources to stir up the imagination and inspiration of people. Thus, the times, fashion and entertainment media have continued to evolve, closely affecting one another, and fashion icons play a role of fashion leader, through entertainment media, who takes the initiative in mass fashion without just being confined to the field of entertainment. This study meaningful from the aspect that discussion of popular culture has been placed in a position that recognizes the entity of and interest in popular culture. through this study, I hope that the scope of interest in Fashion design will expand and that approaches to popular culture will become more diversified.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.34 no.6 s.119
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• pp.39-53
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• 2007

Unlike conventional roof landscaping, where various kinds of plants and structures are employed, a grass roof is a roof on which herbaceous plants are grown in planting medium and which is not accessed or maintained, mainly because it doesn't have sufficient load capacity to support a regular roof garden. They are mostly built on existing roofs, whether flat slab or gabled. Planting on roofs has numerous advantages, such as creating a biotope, purifying urban air, adding moisture to the atmosphere, storing rain water, preventing flash floods, reducing energy use for heating and air conditioning, enhancing the urban landscape and providing relaxation to the city dwellers, not to mention the alleviation of global warming by absorbing $CO_2$. In addition to the general merits of roof planting, the grass roof has its own unique qualities. Only herbaceous species are planted on the roof, resulting in light weight which allows roofs of existing buildings to be planted without structural reinforcement. The species chosen are mostly short, tough perennials that don't need to be maintained. These conditions provide an ideal situation where massive planting can be done in urban areas where roofs are often the only and definitely the largest space available to be planted. If roofs are planted on a massive scale they can play a significant role in alleviating global warming, heat island effects and energy shortages. Despite the advantages of grass roofs, there are some problems. The most significant problem is the invasion of neighboring plants. They may be brought in with the planting medium, by birds or by wind. These plants have little aesthetic value comparing to the chosen species and are usually taller. Eventually they dominate and prevail over the original species. The intended planting design disappears and the roof comes to look wild. Since the primary value of a grass roof is ecological, a change in attitude towards what constitutes beauty on the roofscape is necessary. Instead of keeping the roof neat through constant maintenance, people must learn that the wild grass with bird's nests on their roof is more beautiful as it is.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.7-16
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• 2017

One of the essential characteristics of Lewis Mumford's architectural criticism is the coherent emphasis on symbolism. Such emphasis stems from his understanding of city and humanity in the context of civilization: first, that the architecture symbolizes institutions of urban civilization; second, that the technical aspect of human nature should be balanced with its artistic aspects. Mumford believed that each architectural type requires an appropriate symbolic expression corresponding to its purpose and that a new symbolic expression, in a new cultural context, should replace the conventional expression. He took symbolism for an intuitional expression, and read multi-layered meanings of architecture: 'practical function' by way of rational reason and 'symbolic function' by way of intuition. He pursued a balance between practicality and beauty to rectify the situation of modern civilization, in which symbolism, the expression of its intuitional aspect, is in crisis. Ultimately, for Mumford, the essential task of architectural critic is of the interpretation of symbolism, aiming at the correspondence and communication between the architect(artist)'s intuition and critic(interpreter)'s via the media of symbol. The critic can play some privileged role of interpreting even symbols unintended by the architect. The ideal architectural critic, after all, would be the one who is able to understand the city, technology and human beings in the perspective of civilization and to interpret the architect's artistic expression in its highest form through intuition. Mumford established himself as such a critic and evaluated the status of aesthetic accomplishment of his contemporary architecture and technological civilization, giving emphasis on the artistic practice in architecture as a solution.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.49-59
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• 2018

The purpose of this research is to study the semantic characteristics of men's cosmetics brand names by analyzing 51 brand names in the domestic market, so as to find ways to develop strategic brand names. In order to investigate this area, the study looked at the Interbrand Company's Name Spectrum, and the results are as follows. The men's cosmetics brand names turned out to be freestanding brand names, descriptive brand names, and associative brand names, in that order. The freestanding brand names were found to be the initial combinations of the words that have the desired benefits in the concepts of the pertinent brands; in other words, coined brand names that were made by synthesizing words such as nice men, naturalism, eco-friendly plant-derived materials and ideal skin. Associative brand names are generally used to express the effect of enhancing brand awareness by considering the phonetic image of the word or prompting a masculine and favorable image. Descriptive brand names use language symbols such as men, homme, man, monsieur and gentle to represent specific business and product categories for men, and also use stem, plant, flower, skin, beauty, moisturizing, tosowoong and so on to provide the properties and beneficial information related to the products. In conclusion, the men's cosmetics brand names embody an important factor that symbolizes the concepts, functions or features of the brand, and there is a need for men's cosmetic brands to develop more unique and distinctive brand names to promote their brand names as constitutional factors that can build brand power and strengthen brand image.