• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.83-98
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out the orientations and characteristic in clothes buying of each age group of elderly women, based on the actual self-image and the ideal self-image of clothing. Grasping the diversity of their clothes' buying orientations will be helpful in making a better merchandise production planning for apparel, and in launching new brands into the market. The study will also provide useful data in developing sales strategies which enable to supply goods that meet consumers' needs and tastes in the quality market, and consequently will help to classify the market. Samples were 488 women of 55 and over, dwelling in Pusan Metropolitan City. The data was analysed by using MANOVA, ANOVA, and the Cronbach's $\alpha$ reliability was also applied. The conclusions based on the theoretical background and the result of questionnaire surveys were as follows: 1. The order of priority of buying orientations based on clothes's actual self-image was 'practicality', 'cautiousness' and 'economical effectiveness' without regard to age. The items that showed the significant differences in 50's were 'cautiousness', 'experimentation', 'fashion-consciousness' and ostentatiouness, and in 70's were 'economical effectiveness', 'experimentation', 'impulsiveness' and 'environmental friendliness', and none in 60's. 2. The order of priority based on clothes' ideal self-image was the same as that of actual one, and there was no significant difference between age groups.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.763-776
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.9-23
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• 1988

This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.117-133
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• 1996

The etymological meaning of 'the Picturesque' is "after the manner of painters." It had begun to be used from the end of Classical era and become popular in Romantic era. The concept of the Picturesque in the Classical era is an allusion to the Classical paintings, history paintings or ideal landscapes. As the idea of these paintings was the Beautiful Nature, the most crucial of the Classical Picturesque were that a painting should represent some significant human action; that all the parts of this painting should contribute to the whole; that verbal commentaries were needed. The influence of the Picturesque on the garden design can be summarized as the invention of 'the Landscape Garden.' In the Landscape Garden, human action was central and formal and painterly techiniques were used to highlight human action. The subjectivization of concept of of the beauty resulted in the cult of the Picturesque. In the controversy by Price and Knight, the Picturesque and its influence on the garden design was contended variously. Price criticized the monotonous gardens of Brown's and named "roughness, sudden varitation and irregularity" as the three hallmarks of the Picturesque. Knight contended " that the Picturesque consisted only in a manner of viewing things with an eye and mind educated in the principles of painting" and "that gardens should reproduce as fully as possible the qualities that made the pictures of Rosa or Hobbema delightful."

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.267-273
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• 2015

This study is a review on the relationship between furniture purchasers and producers in the Joseon period. Understanding the relationships in our traditional spirit and the Joseon furniture that reflects a aesthetic sense is a meaningful work. Joseon was to build an ideal country which put emphasis on the order and harmony through Theory of 'Yeak' as the confucianism nation. Human aesthetics, which emphasis on the spiritual value by confirmity to nature and forcus on the relaxed, deficient personality rather than completeness was established as the central formative consciousness of the Joseon Dynasty. The nature of things in the confucian scholar prior to the representations of things is expressed in the form of master craftsman's skill and soul. Formative consciousness of the confucian scholar is to realize ideals by communciation and interchange with master craftsman's soul in the form of the Joseon furniture. The beauty of restraint and brevity in the Joseon Dynasty furniture includes meanings and procedures of art work. It implies an orderer's purpose of production and a producer's products. Understanding the spirit of times in the production becomes the cornerstone capable of getting closer to the furniture ultimate proper function. These problems have a very close relationship with the problems of modern people's commnuication. We expect an even higher growth of the furniture by achieving more improved communication based on the consumer's great insight and the producer's passion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.89-101
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• 1993

The Russian revolution and the successive "art into production" atmosphere provided a unique model of a strict inter-relation between social process and innovative process in the taste. Influenced by CUBISM, RAYONISM and SUPREMATISM emerged in Russia around the time of Russian revolution and gave way to CONSTRUCTIVISM, based on Tatlin's theory, which played a vital role to combine art with social committment. One of the first question to be established after the revolution was the function of art within the new society. First, it should be propagandistic and empahsise the benefit of the new state. Secondly, art could take on an affirmatory role putting foward ideal views of the society as example to be disscussed and followed. Thirdly, the Constructivists' view, "Death to Art" was their slogan. Their view was that the artists' work in the new society was to be based on the material value and beauty in fuction as this alone could be consistent with the aesthetics of Marx and Lenin. It sould be pointed out that among the various applied arts, textiles and clothing design were considered one of the most important role in propaganda and in support of the new socialst ideas. Traditionl handicrafts provided a repository of popular images and folk art continued to assert an influence on the textiles and clothing design after the revolution. Constructivists, such as Stepanova and Popova, went to the factory as direct answer to the invitation for the art-industry rapport. Thematic or propagandistic designs were directly connected to the daily life and national transformation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.47-64
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• 2010

This study was to define the factors of inspiration and expression methods of Viktor & Rolf known for distinctive works in order to find the ways of creative fashion designing. For the research method, the literature reviews were done by designer's books, collection reviews, and related articles. To find the ideas of design inspiration, interview data with Viktor & Rolf were used. The results of this study were as follows. Their conceptional attitude and the fashion shows like performance indicated that the designer's introspection became the origin of the concept and the ideas expanded the fields of expression. The expression of surrealistic fantasy was done by free imagination and daydreams, which was appeared as fantastical world beyond the everyday life. The expression of paradox and contrast overcame stereotype views with inversion, paradox, and ironical expression. The distortion of shape and the extreme exaggeration by overlap and repetition had a intention that magnity the miserable self-images on purpose, which had started from the debut and appeared ever after on collections and which sought the practicality, infinity exceeding the standard of ideal beauty. The harmony between classicism and avant-guard originated from the insights of tradition demonstrated the wits of designers showing the unique ideas with the base of classics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.41-52
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• 1999

This study is to compare and analyze two types of 'transparency' concept expressed in architecture and garment which has not only been an important theme in the post-modern expression of architeture but been shown in various types of concept. This study examined the characteristics of transparency and through theoretical studies divided them into four types; frankness(purity ambiguity comparison exposure and eroticism) Purity building would use the matrial which is transparent glasses for the expprssion of its purity and clothing would use the transparent matrial for the expression of the natural beauty of human body and the purity of human of itself. Ambiguity is expressed in the outer side of architecture by duplicating transparent materials and by phenomenon of optical illusion and inflection. On the contrary in garment it is shown in the outward formation of underclothing. Comparison in architecture is expressed by the use of void but opaque materials as well as solid but transparent materials. Extinction is expressed with the visual effect of context of the surrounding by the use of opaque glass and reflexive glass. In garment the effect of comparison is expressed by the use of mixing transparent materials and opaque materials. Building would express the inside of itself by the way of its exposure and clothing would also express its frankness through the human body is partly opened or clossed at the same thime that arises from eroticism of the way of the expression of human feelings.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.17-30
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• 2018

This study discusses the ambivalence and ambiguity in the relationship between the women's body and fashion drawings in respect to post-feminism perspectives. Deconstructivist post-feminists, perceiving the body as a passive subject, asserted that women internalize the male gaze by becoming the object of male desire, then manipulate the body to conform to that ideal. In this perspective, corsets assumed the role of the tool for forcing women's body to be obedient, restraining and suppressing the body. On the other hand, in the essentialist post-feminist perspective, which regards the women's body as an active object, insists that fashion, in its essence, is not necessarily about sex, nor is it devised to attract the male gaze. In such a viewpoint, the women's body functions as a vehicle for empowerment; by wearing corset women gain power and embraces the cultural norms of dominant beauty. As investigated in this study, the corset is both a tool for oppressing the women's body, as well as a vehicle for the voluntary expression of femininity. This ambivalence in the perception of the corset in the post-feminist theory represents the double-sided perspective in fashion as being both a subordinate construction and a powerful tool for self-expression.