• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.89-101
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion item of the symbolic fashion icons in the 20th century. The symbolism of fashion icons was grouped into four classes according to the influence of a social-cultural change. 1. Icons between dream and reality: A dreary emotion that was caused by material richness has a longing for an ideal image. A typical style was Art Nouveau style, which pressed into a grotesque S-bend. While as the world placed on a economic reconstruction after World War I, rational fashion icon which pursued more function and simplify than cumbersome style and complexity came out. 2. Icons between solid and liquid: A solid icons was connected with a mode of female body during World War 1. This extremely stylized female figure. Flowing fabrics enveloped the stylized female figure and they brought a liquid icons into relief. 3. Icons between uniformity and variety: At a time when uniformity was appeared strongly within 20th century is during World War II and about 1940-1950. The uniformal icon was classified into uniformity by uniform and by mass production. A repugnance for the uniformity and imitation of fashion was tried a new fashion style. It could be called with the various of fashion icon. 4. Icons between social secession and rediscovery: In 1950-1960, 1970-1990, and the end of 20th century, the advent of the young culture was born a consumer who newly breaks in fashion. It could be included within the domain of social secession icon. While the rediscovery of fashion icon was associated with experimental new fibers, leotard, suitable replacement for wool or acrylic knit, silk that could stretch in any direction, new fabrics that were transparent, took color beautifully, and could be painted, tie-dyed, or embroidered.

• 영어영문학
• /
• 제58권5호
• /
• pp.839-858
• /
• 2012

This study is to analyze dreams and madness in Don Quixote and Hamlet which makes these two heroes quite identical rather than antithetical. Don Quixote is usually considered to be an idealistic, enthusiastic, and unselfish doer, whereas Hamlet is a skeptical, melancholic, and self-conscious thinker. However, Don Quixote and Hamlet both reveal a heroic desire to embody an ideal world into a reality through their dreams and madness. Based on Freud's interpretation of the similarities between dream and neurosis, this article focuses on the aspects of Don Quixote's waking dream and Hamlet's affected madness to find out their characteristics as new types of heroes. Don Quixote, the waking dreamer, acts like a maniac and tries to remain in a state of madness to sustain the dream world where he wanders to save the weak, the poor, and the deprived. He accepts psychic breakdown as well as physical trauma if only he can do the role of a knight errant. Sleepless Hamlet witnesses the dream world and experiences it tangibly while he hears an order from the murdered King's ghost. Yet, instead of becoming a neurotic, Hamlet waits for the chance to perform his task to regain the harmony of his family and kingdom. Even on the border of madness, Hamlet does not forsake his own life and duty but dreams in reality and acts without losing his reason. Although there are some apparent outstanding differences between Don Quixote and Hamlet, they have fundamental similarities with each other; Both of them exemplify a new type of hero who desperately tries to fulfill a mad dream to face the suffocating, suspicious, and strange world.

• 대순사상논총
• /
• 제17권
• /
• pp.49-71
• /
• 2004

Daesoon-thought is considered as the one that offers the new interpretation of the people who live in the modern society and advocates the new worldview based on the history of Korean thought. Basically, Dong-Hak, which was a root of Korean religions, was strongly against formalistic Confucianism that governed the whole society of Chosun dynasty, and showed its characteristics towards anti-neo confucianism. However, the people, who severely suffered from the gap between the ideal and real world with deploring their languishment, longed for the emergence of a new leader, since the sprit of Dong-Hak, which was pervaded up to Gab-o-keong-zang, was collapsed before the sword of Japanese forces. Jeungsan was well aware of people's thoughts, and provided with them hopes of life in a very active manner. So, his thought showed plebeianism and democratic nature in a certain sense with racialism that tried to recover the collapsed pride of Chosun. Particularly, Cheon-ji-gong-sa, one of his religious thoughts, is clearly distinguished from those advocated by other religious thinkers, and shows the positive will that overcomes the difficulties of the world in the religious way. This paper aims at shedding the light on how Daesoon-thought appeared with the background of late Chosun. For this, the trend appearing in religions and thoughts at the time of late Chosun when Daesoon-thought started, will be examined carefully. Also, based on such a background it will be further investigated how Daesoon-thought has been developed and systemized.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권2호
• /
• pp.87-100
• /
• 2009

This study examines black images as 'the other' in history and aims to analyze images of black female fashion models which have been changed in modern society, particularly in $21^{st}$ century post-modern world. Black images, established historically as illustrated on the paintings in $19^{th}$ century, were disseminated in $20^{th}$ century throughout the world especially by way of TV and movies as several typical images such as 'Coon' the clown as the object of entertainment, 'Buck' wild and resistant black rascal, and 'Mammy' obedient and fat black woman servant. The result of image analysis of black female fashion models, can be summarized as following five images. The first is the image of 'powerful'. Black female models frequently represent healthy image which reflects black people's excellence in sports and also the traditional Image of black skin color as strength. The second is the image of 'sexy'. They are adored as having perfect ideal body shape. They show off their sex appeal with their body. The third image is 'multicultural'. Black models represent cultures besides the western. The fourth is the image of 'fantastic'. In contrast to the real, resonable things, black female models represent wild, fancy, ghost things. The fifth is the image of 'racial discrimination' By arranging them in contrast to whites, a metaphoric image of racial discrimination can be displayed. The result shows that tome of racial images still remain on the other way.

• 농촌계획
• /
• 제15권4호
• /
• pp.173-182
• /
• 2009

This study is a plan for the Jeju Sanghyo Botanical Garden construction, and it is prepared to maintain the identity of the local landscape by composing the garden using the local landscape resources. The goals of becoming one of world's best, garden centered botanical garden and at the same time one that represents culture of Jeju. Unusual species are included in the collection and with the general collection, special collection and exhibition by different kinds are planned to be offered to the public. The garden will demonstrate the world's various types of gardens in a compressed way. It is our endeavor to become center of culture beyond plant education and exhibition, drawing a large number of people to our garden. Moreover, conservation of Jeju's unique botanic resources will be carried out and the garden will show the garden culture. Due to the size of the site, different themes will be exhibited in one zone in a parallel. Unique combination of each local landscape resource will create own theme. The display will be divided into three different stages: the 1st stage is an educational exhibition, assisting more understanding of distinguishing different locations, the second is exhibition by various species and the final stage will show an ideal way to develop a garden with harmony of various plant species.

• Asian review of World Histories
• /
• 제4권1호
• /
• pp.133-163
• /
• 2016

This essay critically analyses the legacy of Eisenstadt's The Political Systems of Empires for the comparative political history of pre-industrial empires. It argues that Eisenstadt has given us a rich toolkit to conceptualize the formation, maintenance, and dissolution of empires by theorizing the structural relationships between social groups in large-scale polities and among such polities, and by analysing global patterns of development in the distribution of the sources of social power. The Political Systems of Empires provides an inventory of key questions and dynamics that a comparative history of power relationships in empires cannot ignore. This essay, furthermore, discusses three methodological problems in Eisenstadt's work which have had a significant impact on comparative empire studies between the 1980s and the 2000s. The essay argues that certain shared features of comparative studies of pre-industrial empires help perpetuate Eurocentric analyses: the foregrounding of select empires and periods as ideal types (typicality), the focus on macro-historical structures and dynamics without the integration of social relationships and actions in historical conjunctures (the lack of scalability), and the search for convergence and divergence. These features need to be overcome to make Eisenstadt's legacy viable for comparative political history.

• Asian review of World Histories
• /
• 제2권2호
• /
• pp.147-167
• /
• 2014

The urban modernity that became an irresistible model for elites in Asia in the decades before and after 1900 was far from being gender-neutral. It represented an exceptional peak of patriarchy in its exclusion of respectable middle class women from the work force, from ownership and control of property and from politics. Marriage was indissoluble and the wife's role in the male-headed nuclear family was to care for and educate the abundant children she produced. Puritan religious values underlined the perils for women of falling outside this pattern of dependence on the male. Though upheld as modern and civilized, this ideal was in particularly striking contrast with the pre-colonial Southeast Asian pattern of economic autonomy and balance between women and men, and the relative ease of female-initiated divorce. Although attractive to many western-educated Southeast Asian men, including religious reformers determined to 'save' and domesticate women, urban respectability of this type was a poor fit for women accustomed to dominant roles in commerce and marketing, and at least equal ones in production. Southeast Asian relative failure in the high colonial era to adapt to the modern market economy may also have a gendered explanation. We should not be surprised that patriarchy and puritanism became more important in Southeast Asia as it urbanized in the late 20th Century, since this was echoing the European experience a century earlier. The question remains how far Southeast Asia could retain its relatively balanced gender pattern in face of its eventual rapid urbanization and commercial development.

• 복식
• /
• 제58권4호
• /
• pp.13-25
• /
• 2008

This study is on the various style and characteristics of mask, and was performed empirically by reviewing the related materials such as the literature, precedent studies, fashion works, and home and foreign fashion magazines. As a result of the study, the style of mask in the modern fashion is roughly categorized by full-covered style, half-covered style, and over-half-covered style which is covered over 50% of a face. And, mask is utilized on a hat or a dress all over, or is produced by a elaborate makeup. Mask with lots of variation has three big characteristics, which are sense of disguise, sense of ornamentation, sense of grotesquery. First, sense of disguise means deviation or tool of affectation instead of cultural standard norm through transforming or masquerading as an imagery person or animal in ancient myths, famous artistes, etc. It could be developed to express a designer's identity. Second, mask decorated with various styles and materials has sense of ornamentation, which means natural human desire of expression for beauty, and at the same time human mind longing for experience a fantastic and ideal inner world being deviated from the present world even indirectly. Third, ignoring the original format of eyes, nose, and mouth, using extraordinarily various techniques such as distortion, extreme, exaggeration, concealment, or combining with animal images, mask has sense of grotesquery inducing humor and horror simultaneously.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제13권2호
• /
• pp.300-313
• /
• 2005

Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.

• 비교문화연구
• /
• 제29권
• /
• pp.201-232
• /
• 2012

In the world history in the rein of totalitarianism cultural project of government had been activated, and consequently of it official culture had been organized. But at the same time on the other side of it people('narod'), who didn't have cultural means for active expression of own opinion on the reality, had expressed world-view and judgement informally in everyday language. In the literature of autocracy, subjected to censorship, had been expressed and fixed mythically idealized image of sovereign and his works. But in the folklore the image of ruler had been created by liberal fantasy of people. This article examined russian literature and folklore texts of 18 century, when russian people suffered from rapid and dramatic changes, caused by Peter I. Although russian literature of 18 century had gone over to the new literary regime, it still accepted political mechanism as dominant of age, and consequently in the literary texts of this century Peter I was represented as ideal person and great monarch. But various images in folklore texts show that people's opinion on ruler and his activities couldn't be controlled. In other worlds, diverse images of Peter I in folklore texts reflect clear and plain historical consciousness of people. This analysis reveals not only difference between mechanism of idealization of government and historical consciousness of people, but also meaning of cultural memory as indicator of historical reality.