• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.301-314
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• 2017

This study focused on the movement adaptability of $19^{th}$ century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic $19^{th}$ century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments' silhouettes and the $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the $19^{th}$ century western women's jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.

• Journal for History of Mathematics
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.19-39
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• 2022

This paper aims to examine how the public perception of mathematics changed in England in the 19th century. As rapid industrial and social developments took place in the 19th century, the educational environment underwent great changes, and the value and public perception of mathematics also changed. Mathematics took a new position in the terrain of educational reform in the late 19th century. In this study, I analyzed the actual condition of mathematics education in elementary and secondary schools, popular educational institutions, and universities in England in the first half, middle, and second half of the 19th century, and compared what values and usefulness of mathematics education were justified in each institution. I also examined how satirical magazine Punch satirized the public understanding or view on mathematics at each period. It is to be hoped that this study will have significant implications for raising the public's positive perception of mathematics in modern society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.205-216
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.55-65
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• 2010

The present study purposed to compare formative expression between the fashion of the end of 19th century - early 20th century and that of the 21st century which were influenced by art nouveau and art deco. For this purpose, we analyzed contents in literature, Internet, etc.,. According to the results of this study, the formative expression of art nouveau were divided into continuous movement, optical illusion and decorative expression. Continuous movement was used to express fancy and soft images in the end of 19th century, and to express images giving the feeling of speed and tension in the 21st century. Optical illusion was expressed by the movement the thin and soft materials with the body movement and the movement of excessive frills adornment. And in movement produced using thin and soft materials and by the bias cutting method in the 21st century. Decorative expression was expressed as fantasy and decadent image in the end of 19th century and as mild passionate and modern image with color combination in the 21st century. The formative expression of art deco were divided into visual simplicity, contrastive loudness, and functional expression. Visual simplicity was expressed as a boyish image in the early of 20th century, but as a complex expression combining simplicity and femininity in the 21st century. Contrastive loudness was expressed by using colors both in the early of 20th century and 21st century. Functional expression was reinforced through the lightening of design and materials in the early of 20th century, but through using bias cutting high tech materials in the 21st century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.60-74
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• 2015

It is considered that jacket was widespread in the 19th century due to its simple and convenient production technique. This study aims to explore the western women's jacket in the late 19th century, which is the basis of modern women's outwear, and we focused on the patterns and construction, the technical aspect of the jacket. We researched pattern books and preserved costume materials, and the study methods are as follows: First, we analyzed the pattern of the jackets from the pattern books and preserved costumes. Second, we analyzed the construction of the jackets from the preserved costumes and compared it to previous researches. The study results are as follows: 19th century jacket consisted of a bodice, a back bodice, a side panel, two-piece sleeve and a collar. The front bodice had cuttings and a dart to make the jacket fit the shape of the body and the two-pieced leg of mutton sleeve, puffed at the shoulder. Various styles of collar and neckline existed. The pattern suggested diverse ways of designing a jacket, such as cutting with partition, dart and pattern expansion that focused on three-dimensional effect at that time.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to comprehend the assignment and the procurement method of wood works' craftsman through the Salleung-dogamuigwes in royal tombs constructions in the late Joseon period. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. First, Carpenter and other nine craftsmen were introduced in carpentry works. The craftsmen were put in by occupation to maintain the quality of the government building construction by wood processing area. It was distinguished by frame member, Sujangjae, window framing wood, decorative member. Second, sawyer showed a sharp increase in the latter half of the 18th century and declined since the middle of the 19th century. This is closely related to the increase in demand for building materials and the growth of civilian wood products. As a maximum of 300 people have been assigned to the craftsmen in the woodwork, it can be seen that the work has been divided by the process. Third, the national carpenter was difficult to procure from the 17th century to the beginning of the 18th century. From the middle 18th century, the system procuring national carpenter was stabilized. In the 19th century, the input ratio of the national craftsmen seems to have decreased significantly and seems to have kept it at the minimum level. Forth, sawyer were procured through Seongonggam from the late 18th century through the mid 19th century. That means that the role of the sawyer had become important. Since Jogakjang is not a necessary manpower, it usually has civilian artisans.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2015

The purpose of this research is to analyze the morphological relationship between changes hair styles and changes in necklines and collars in 20th century fashion. After selecting the representative plate by each age for this study, the neckline, collar, and formative relevancy of hair style according to it have been analyzed by measuring the neckline, collar, and the width and height item of each hair style. The results of this study show- that the width changes of necklines and collars were mostly proportional in relation to each other, but the width changes of collars and hair styles were inversely proportional. While the amplitude of necklines and collars' width change was very broad, the amplitude of some hair style's height change was very broad. Regarding width, this result had similar results of the researcher's former research, the relation according to the width of necklines, collars and hair style from 16th century to 19th century. However, regarding height, this result was different from the preceding research in that the amplitude of hair style and collars' height change was very broad between 16th and 19th centuries, but the amplitude of neckline's height change is relatively small. This means various heights of necklines appeared in the 20th century, but more various heights of collars were shown between the 16th and 19th centuries. This research hopes to be helpful by predicting trends in fashion, and to be basic resources to understand the systemic relationship of these factors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.31-41
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• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.14-30
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to establish how main characters' mental states are expressed through costumes and makeup by understanding and analyzing the relationship between the costumes and the makeup in the movie "Anna Karenina" and to compare the 19th century Russian costumes. The study methods are a literature review and an empirical case study. The results are as follows. First, the costumes in "Anna Karenina" are a mixture of late crinoline and early bustle style in general. However, the costumes were altered after the actress's movements and acting were considered. Regarding colors, Anna wears a lavender robe as the virtuous wife, a wine-colored robe for love and death, and a white robe for innocence, thus reflecting her mental states; through the colors, her changes of mental state are expressed. Second, the costumes of Alexei Vronsky, are similar in style and colors to those of mid-late 19th century Russian military uniforms. White, blue and black costume colors are used to describe his situations and emotional changes. Third, Alexei Karenin wears 19th century costumes of dark and achromatic colors without decorations, representing his conservative, authoritative character. However, he showshis rage with a wine and red-colored costume at the end of the movie. Fourth, regarding the makeup in the movie, Anna wears makeup of a soft pink-gold color influenced by 19th century naturalism. Male characters express their characteristics with their beards and hair styles. Vronsky's Hollywood mustaches and wavy blonde hair show his charm, and Karenin's chin curtain beard and bald head reveal his conservative character. The costumes of the three main characters in the movie are not very different from 19th century style in general, but mental states and situations are expressed through accessories, and colors maximize all of the effects. Through this research, it is illustrated that the costumes and makeup in a movie can not only express characters' emotional changes but also show the relationships between the characters in different scenes.