• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.289-300
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• 2016

This study surveys children's costumes and games from the 11 Genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(Stewart Culin 1858-1929)". The character of the general dress-costumes, games and the culture of life from the late $19^{th}$ century in genre painting of Junkeun Kim are as follows. The study results on the games are as follow. The boy's games are kite-flying, spinning tops, playing shuttlecock with the feet, blindman's buff, yut("Four-Stick Game"). Girl's games are seesaw with board, blindman's buff, marbles. Combined games are mount shoulder, sledge, tightrope walking for men with boy. The strengthen one's body type were seesaw with board, tightrope walking, the compete score type were playing shuttlecock with the feet, marbles and the multi complex type were yut("Four-Stick Game"), kite-flying. Through genre painting in the $19^{th}$ century we know a boy's 'Jeogori 'and 'Ba-ji' were similar to a modern man's and boy's 'Hanbok' with a traditional method of wearing. We believe that the originality of a traditional costume was an unchangeable characteristic. Girl's 'Jeogori' and 'Chi-ma' changed in length and width, and method of wearing; however, the basic shape did not change. The analysis for artist's genre painting which was ordered by a foreigner and the late of $19^{th}$ century's children's costume and game of life culture is useful to match the counters and show how to wear a modern Korean costume used to understand the 'Hanbok' and establish a costume of life.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.85-108
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• 2017

This paper details the advance of the "Hui" (回) people to Korea and their socioeconomic activities in forming their own community during the late Goryeo and early Joseon period. Hui (回) or Hui Hui (回回) is generally recognized as representative of Muslim culture in Chinese and Korean sources. From the $8^{th}$ century, Korean-Muslim cultural relations accelerated as an outcome of ancient Chinese-West Asian commercial transactions along the Silk Road. These contacts between Muslims and Koreans on the Korean peninsula are borne out by references to Korea found in 23 Islamic sources written between the $9^{th}$ and $16^{th}$ centuries by 18 Muslim scholars, including Ibn Khurdadbih, Sulaiman al-Tajir, and Mas'ud1 i. Ibn Khurdadbih was the first Arab who wrote of Muslims' residence in the Unified Silla Kingdom (661-935CE). However, in the period of Silla, we could not find any reliable written documents in Korea to show encounters between Korea and the Muslim world. In the Goryeosa (GS) chronicle, Muslim merchants who came to Korea were described as "Daesik" (大食: Tashi). Daesik (Tashi) is most probably derived from "Tajir", which means "trader" in Muslim language. Muslims' mass influx and their wide ranging influence on Korean society manifested from the late $13^{th}$ century when the Goryeo Dynasty first came under Mongol control and afterward in the early $15^{th}$ century with the new dynasty of Joseon in Korea.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.73-88
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• 2012

There are practicality, ornamentality and symbolic in a folding fan among Western accessories, and that is a little tool to enhance the overall harmony of a dress. The purpose of this study was to examine Western folding fans in an effort to shed light on the history, culture, fashion and life of different ages in which folding fans had been used. It's specifically meant to look into the mentality of people who had used folding fans. The meaning and function of folding fans were investigated, and their diverse types and characteristics were analyzed. As a result, it's found that in the West, a folding fan was one of major accessories that had an inseparable relation to popular clothes in each age and were necessary for a perfect coordination. Folding fans had been used as ornaments for Western noble women since the 16th century. After a certain period of time passed by, the 18th century became the heyday of folding fans. At that time, folding fans were one of aesthetic art works that even served as a means of mental exchange.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.89-108
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is not only to trace the examples of 'Chesanja' from the texts and artifacts, but also to restore the terminology of the lost traditional Joseon embroidery technique. 'Chesanja' came on Mongolia and Yuan period affected embroidery techniques of the neighboring countries. Therefore, this study will focus on investigate the process of changing 'Chesanja' into Guya(Goya) through ${\ll}Barktonsa{\gg}$ the foreign language transcriptions of the Chosun dynasty, and examine the generation, fashion, and destruction of this technique with the social technical usage. Around the 16th century of the Joseon Dynasty, 'Chesanja' had been actively used as a decorative techniques to dairy products as well as a Buddhist memorial goods embroidered. Accor- dingly, in the "Beonnyeok-Baktongsa"(1515) appeared together written records with 'Chesanja' 'Gwiyeo[귀여]' the Eonhae(Korean annotation) only had emerged in the Joseon Dynasty. It was still a technique to decorate the edges of royal pillow in the mid-17th century. And we have checked from the text "Baktongsaeonhae"(1677) also. Despite this by the mid-18th century, the term in "Baktongsa-sinseok"(1765) and "Baktongsa-sinseok-eonhae"(1765) had disappeared. This phenomenon suggests the possibility that the production and utilization of 'Chesanja' required the sophisticated process for the ruling class had been declined with the custom of embroidery based on the gradation by colorful threads as the preferred technique. Therefore, 'Chesanja' and 'Gwiyeo'[귀여] disappeared from the records but they can be found in the artifacts of the royal family of 19th century. So Chesanja is calls Guya(Goya) and exists as unique technic only in the royal family.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.136-150
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• 2015

The purpose of this thesis is to elucidate the exchange between the East and the West during the 17th century through analyzing the oriental influences described in paintings in Delft school, a trade port of East India Company. The scope of this study focused on the 37 pieces of works by Johannes Vermeer and 31 pieces of the paintings by Pieter de Hooch, which are all the existing work, as analysis targets. The resources of this study were from previous papers about the history of costumes, paintings and culture, Internet sources and other qualitatively analyzed articles. The items that the study looked into were Delft porcelains and Delft tiles, Turkey carpets, costumes and accessories pearl earrings and headdresses. The study looked into oriental factors observed in each of these items, and analyzed them. In terms of oriental factors that are frequently observed in paintings, porcelains (100%), Deft tiles (100%), pearl earrings (100%) and (most) carpets (92.3%) turned out to have oriental nature, but this was not the case with head dresses (7.7%) and clothing (0.3%). These results happen to coincide with the previous investigation in that the oriental factor was reflected in the culture first, while the effects on costumes significantly lagged behind. This progress in cultural exchange can be seen through the noted use of Chinoiserie, a technique that is representative of the Chinese culture, in the 18th century. Through Japonism, the influence of Japanese culture into Europe was introduced, in detail, in 19th century. These results suggest that there are sufficient amount of sources that could be used to study the effect of orientalism to the Western culture. This study intends to look at how the oriental culture affected those of Europe by researching the Delft school of Netherlands during the 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.301-310
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to survey various recips of the roasted skewered beef (Sanjuk) with twenty three classical cookbooks written before 1943 in Korea. The recipes of the roasted skewered beef are found thirty times in the records, which can be classified into six groups such as the palm-type skewered beef (Sulhamyukjuk), little finger-type skewered beef, mixed skewered beef, juice skewered beef, little finger-type skewered internal organs, and wide-cut skewered internal organs. The palm-type skewered beef and the mixed skewered beef most frequently appeared in the records. The 'Sulhamyukjuk' in the 17th century were inherited while changing its name to 'Sanjuk' in the late 18th century, which is the origin of 'Bulkoki'. There were two types of the roasted skewered beef, the palm-type and the little finger-type; and the palm type preceded the little finger-type. They were used with no change until the 19th century. Actually the roasted skewered beef existed even in the 16th century, but were put down in the early 17th century. In the cooking of 'Sulhamyukjuk' the process of dipping shortly into cold water in the midst of roast seems to absolutely disappeared. Some recipes of the roasted skewered beef were lost, but most have been inherited in the similar way with simplification including little use of internal organs. The main ingredients consisted of parts of cattle such as fresh meat, intestines, heart, liver, omasum, tripe, head, sweet bread, and lung with various vegetables and mushroom. And the main seasonings were mixtures of oil, soy sauce, sesame seed powder, scallion stalk, pepper, sesame seed oil, and salt. And sometimes wine, vinegar, ginger, garlic, and sugar were added.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.296-305
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• 2020

Konbaung Dynasty was the last unified dynasty that ruled Myanmar from 18^th to 19^th century. During this time Buddhist art flourished in Myanmar due to the interest of the rulers toward their traditional culture. Metal decorative artifacts in the 18^th century are classified into structures and Buddha statues. They are further subdivided into gilt-bronze and bronze objects, depending on their material component. Three-dimensional gilt-bronze decorative artifacts were cast with a brass alloy of Cu-Zn-Sn-Pb and their surfaces were gilded with extremely thin gold leaves (less than 1 ㎛ in thickness). The gilded layer approximately comprised 10 wt% silver in addition to the main element, gold. The lack of Hg in the gilded layer, indicated that the amalgam gilding technique was not applied. The analysis results indicated that the lacquered gilding technique was applied to the objects. Bronze decorative artifacts without gilding were cast with materials containing Cu-Sn-Pb. The bronze pavilions and bronze Buddha staues were crafted using the same alloy of high-tin bronze, which approximately contained 20 wt% Sn. No heat treatment was applied to reduce the brittleness of the objects after they were cast with a large amount of Sn. The most significant difference between the gilt-bronze and bronze decorative artifacts lie in their elemental compositions. The gilt-bronze decorative artifacts with their gilded surface were manufactured using brass containing zinc, while the unplated bronze decorative artifacts were composed of bronze containing tin. Artifacts of the same type and size are classified differently depending on the materials utilized in the surface treatment such as gilding.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.129-140
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to reconsider existing hypotheses on the orinination and changes of changbang-anchogongs and their types and suggest an alternative hypothesis. The earliest changbang-anchogongs in $17^{th}$ century is presumed to originate as imitations of chungbang ppaelmoks for ornamental and reinforcing parts for changbangs. They were framed whole sides of buildings equally, and were used in small numbers of extant royal buildings and Buddhist halls. From late $17^{th}$ century, enlarged dragon shape changbang-anchogongs applied to Buddhist halls maily to decorate and strengthen front side of buildings. As a result of exchange between changbang-anchogongs and Ikgong type brackets, combined changbang-anchogongs in Buddhist halls were invented for stronger connection with upper bracketing units and have been spread during $18^{th}$ century. Danpyeongbang anchogongs were originated by the connection between short pieces of pyeongbangs and early type of anchogongs similar to ppaelmoks. They belong to minority subtype, but were drawn in illustrations by mistake, as parts of main halls of royal palaces from $19^{th}$ century, because of painter's confusion about new techniques for changbang-anchogongs. Combined changbang-anchogongs for royal buildings were presumed to be invented in 1790s by stimulation from a Buddhist hall related to royal tomb. However, unlike Buddhist precedence, they were used to reinforce and decorate whole sides, even corners, of buildings, and their frameworks and shapes were imported from Daeryang-anchogongs at flanks of ritual halls in royal tombs and royal shrines from $17^{th}$ century.