• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.73-86
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• 1998

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is gaining worldwide recognition as a designer who is not conscious of fashion and meet the desire of times. Castelbajac's works can be devided into three periods. 1. Creative challenge period. (1968~78) - His works started from creative challenge against haute-couture attract with practical design and extraordinary textile use. 2. Artistic development period. (1979~88) - He made unique ideas with the four primary colors affected by modern formative art. Pop-art clothes using cartoon or graffito were highlighted. 3. Aesthetic maturity period. (1989-now) - He received chevalier of Arts and the Letters at 1989. He was acquainted with other many designers in the world at 1990s, and his works came to mature. The aesthetic qualities in Castelbajac's works can be identified with the following themes. 1. Geometrical simplicity - Geometrical form without decoration and unnecessary lines used for the most comfortable cloth to wear and act gives an impression of explicitness and intelligence. 2. Humorous decoration - An unique idea having wit and humor shows his philosophy that must be new, vital and delightful. 3. Parody presentation - Pictures or people are reorganized 9Y work philosophy, then that get satirical and comic effects. 4. Pop-art image - Using mass communication media like a cartoon, figures, flag, graffiti, it produces clear and bright image.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.497-513
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• 2006

The women selected by random sampling were classified into four groups by their body cathexis and Make-up attitude in order to investigate differences in Maslow Need and Make-up behavior. Cluster was classified into four groups: positive congruity(G1), positive incongruity(G2), negative congruity(G3), negative incongruity(G4). The result are as follows: Four groups showed meaningful difference each other between the peculiarity of need. That is, this thesis examined the strength of seven needs and found out that G1 group had the strongest needs in seven ones, comparing with four groups. Next, this thesis found out that G2 had the strongest ones in belonging need, self-respect need, and aesthetic need, and that G4 had the strongest ones in physiology need, self-realization need, and recognition need. So it showed somewhat a little difference among groups. G1>G2>G3>G4, in order, emphasized fashion, alignment, ostentation, and tool in Make-up behaviors, and customs, and G1>G2>G4>G3, in order, emphasized respective peculiarity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2019

3D printing is attracting attention from all industries as it enables the development of personalized product design to meet consumer needs by establishing a mutual connection system between production, management and consumers. However, there are still limitations to applying them as apparel materials, and research on the recognition of 3D printing or the preference for fashion products is needed to actually commercialize 3D printing in the fashion industry. In this study on the development of various product designs using 3D printing technology in the fashion industry, an analysis of 255 questionnaires was conducted to determine the preferences and purchase intention trends of fashion product design using 3D printing for college students. Data analysis was performed with IBM SPSS Statistics (V.24). 'Fashion sensitive pursuit', 'Individuality & brand pursuit' and 'Functional convenience' was interested in fashion accessories using 3D printing technology and customized fashion apparel products using 3D printing. 'Functional Convenience-oriented' and 'Practical Purchasing-oriented' type showed that the functionality and durability of products made using 3D printing technology were important. And 'Individuality pursuit' type indicated that design and applied materials were important when producing products using 3D printing technology.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.97-111
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• 2000

The term Japonism was coined in France where the predilection for Japanese art forms was immediately apparent, influencing Impressionism, Symbolism, Post-Impressionism, and later the Art Nouveau movement, all of which reflect aspects of Japanese art adapted to Western style. The 1968 May Revolution in Paris changed traditional thinking and shifted the center of fashion of the 1970's from haute couture to pret-a porter. At about the same time, having recovered from the destruction of war, Japan started to emerge as a leading economic force. The Japanese clothing designers, who were inspired by their own traditions, began to present their collections in the West. Hanae Mori's dresses with Japanese floral motifs were the first to appear. The West was captivated by the colorfully layered clothing of Kenzo Takada inspired by peasant and working class kimonos. And Issey Miyake was acclaimed for his innovative concepts of ‘one piece of cloth'. In the 1980s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto achieved recognition with their deconstructivist and minimalist approaches to fashion. The clothing proposed by these Japanese designers has transcended not only national and sexual boundaries, but also those of accepted materials in which to work. These designs suggest new possibilities and are unrestricted by preconceived ideas of kimono or of Western clothing. The emergence of Japanese designers as a powerful creative force in the late twentieth century has created a new dimension to the term Japonism in fashion. By integrating the clothing traditions of the West and Japan, while at the same time departing from them, a new international genre of clothing has been created.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.185-192
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• 2020

A novel binding site for metal ion made by designing molecule with tetrazolo quinoline with hydrazine carboxamide (TQC) and the designed molecule successfully synthesized. The probe works by selectively detecting Al3+ ion via both fluorimetric and colorimetric approach. The probe's effectiveness towards aluminium ion detection is highly sensitive and selective with no substantial interference with other competing ions. The added Al3+ ion to TQC fetched a rapid change of visual color to yellow from colorless, also the response of fluorescence turn-on. The fluorescence turn-on and color change visibly by the probe TQC with Al3+ ion credited to the ICT phenomenon (intramolecular charge-transfer transition). The likely interaction of the probe with aluminium ion has also been there predicted from ESI-MS spectral analysis results. The usefulness of the probe confirmed by practical utility by making a test kit to monitor Al3+ ion in water which showed a naked eye detection by notable color change.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.93-100
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• 2016

This paper aimed to provide the basic data on consumers' purchasing tendency required to start and operate online shopping malls on internet. The survey selected the female college students from 19 to 24 years old majoring fabric and fashion design in colleges in Gyeonggi-do. Total 283 questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. The analysis results are presented below. The first online shopping was during the middle school times showing the highest responses as 63.54%, followed by high school times, college times and elementary school times in that sequence. Most female college students(97.88%) purchased goods from online shopping malls. The purposes of search in online shopping malls were 'need to purchase goods(47.18%)', 'habit/hobbies(27.57%)', 'need to collect data on goods(20.27%)' and 'to relieve stresses(4.98%)'. About 50% of respondents selected 'I visit mainly several online shopping malls. If there is no goods that I try to find, I search other sites and purchase what I want to buy(46.57%).' For the goods purchased from online shopping malls, everyday wears showed the highest ratio, 85.92%. About the time to purchase goods related to trends, most respondents selected 'purchase whenever it is necessary without respect to trends(87%).' Main considerations when the respondents purchased the goods from online shopping malls were 'design(64.98%)', 'price(18.41%)', 'quality(11.20%)', 'company recognition(2.53%)', 'color(1.44%)', and 'materials (1.44%)' in that sequence. 64.62% of respondents had the experience of returning goods after purchasing from online shopping malls. The reason why the respondents returned goods after purchasing from online shopping malls was mainly 'because of size(52.17%)', the response with the highest ratio. 42.24% responded that they experienced damage by washing the goods purchased from online shopping malls. It was found that the respondents didn't think about the country of manufacturing when purchasing goods from online shopping malls.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.65-78
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• 2013

This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.915-929
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the visual illusions and image of the combinated collars and sleeves which are combinated by the computer simulation. The detail object of this study as follows; 1) to know the visual illusions of the clothing as the collar and sleeves are combinated 2) to constract the clothing image using sementic differential scales 3) to know the differet image of the clothing as the collars and sleeves are combinted 4) to know the interaction effect of the collars and sleeves of the clothing The detail method of this study is as follows; In the first experiment, there are two groups; the first 8 groups are the combination of the same collar and the different sleeves. The second 8 groups are the combination of the same sleeve and the different collars. The second experiment has done for the 32 clothings which are the combination of the 8 collars and 4 sleeves. For the 14 clothing the image has tested by 13 semantic differential bi- polar scale. The subjects were 50 female students majoring in clothing and textile. The data analyzed by Kendall cofficient of concodance, Factor analysis, Anova and scheffe's test. Briefly the image of the clothing is much influenced by the varing of the collar than that of the sleeve. Thus, we also can conclude that the recognition of the clothing are much more dependent on the collar than sleeve.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.773-786
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• 2017

The current study aims to analyze the process of fabric production planning in Dongdaemun Market, which is a successful model case industrial integration in South Korea. We followed the changes in perception among fabric experts, regarding their recognition of fashion trends, and the following planning and process of fabric production. We used the purpose sampling method to select participants for interview in the Dongdaemun Market, then we carried out one-to-one interviews. Our analysis reveals 4 points of importance. First, the fabric planning stage either employed the trend book swatch, or simply reused the model fabrics already available. Even though the experts felt the need to accept the latest fashion trends, very few considered the trends as positive influences in fabric planning. Whereas trend was a key element in identifying the flow of the fashion industry, there were obstacles in carrying out the study. Second, experts frequently participated in domestic fabric seminars, but not in textile exhibitions. Third, domestic and overseas market research has been performed typically at department stores, and typically at Japan. Fourth, the influx of Chinese fabrics has both positive and negative influences, such as low price, and low reliability. In conclusion, experts were less amenable to accepting the latest fashion trends. pre-requisites in real life to meet the use of the current trend of each company. More studies on the Dongdaemun Market from perspectives of practitioners are warranted.