• Clean Technology
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.259-265
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• 2011

The textile industry is suffered from air pollution problems which must be resolved. In particular, white smoke and odor after the tenter process require abatement. The major air pollution problem in the textile industry occurs during the finishing stages, where various chemicals are used for coating the fabrics. Lubricating oils, plasticizers, and water repellent chemicals are the fabric treatment chemicals. The coated fabrics are cured by heating in tenter facility. In this process, most of air pollutants emitted into the air. White smoke is basically made up of tiny solid or liquid particles of VOCs less than one micron in size. The oil mist can be carried over long distance from their point of origin. The most effective method of removing odor from tenter process is to get rid of tiny oil mist at the emitted gas. For this reason, the full-scale EFC (Electric Fume Collector) of 700 CMM was tested for removing odorous substances emitted from tenter facility. As a result of this study, odor and white smoke can be eliminated effectively and quite large amounts of oil can be recovered.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.838-843
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• 2015

In this study, a cotton knit was dyed with elm bark extract; subsequently, the dyed fabric was measured according to the types of mordants and the preprocessing cationizers used. Additionally, antibiosis against super bacteria was examined. The results follow. First, the color of the dyed cotton knit appeared reddish and yellowish for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants. When preprocessing with a cationizer was conducted, the dyeing properties were the best. Second. even when mordants were not used for dyeing, color fastness after washing, sweating, and rubbing was generally good Grade 4 and 5. Color fastness after exposure to sunlight was the best Grade 4 for fabric prepared with ferrous sulfate as the mordant. Third. as for antimicrobial properties, or resistance to super bacteria, the growth of bacteria was suppressed in a meaningful way for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants, compared to the control group fabric. The dyeing methods with the most powerful antimicrobial effects were dyeing after preprocessing with a cationizer and preparing fabric with copper sulfate as the mordant. The results stated above show that in case of dyeing with elm bark extract, preprocessing of the cotton knit with a cationizer and dying with copper mordant displayed high levels of antimicrobial properties that were useful for resisting super bacteria. Of these the dyeing properties were the best when preprocessing with a cationizer.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.821-829
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• 2010

The men's costume of eighteenth century showed feminine image of elegant decoration through the influence of social feminine atmosphere. As years go, heading towards the end of the eighteenth century, most of men's wear were simplified except vest, which had gorgeous decorations showing feminity. Therefore, men's vest of eighteenth was regarded as good item to apply to modern women's wear. The men's vest design of eighteenth century were divided into three types due to the passage of time, they showed the difference in the length, detail and trimming. Cutting lines in the modern fashion are used to give comfort and show the three-dimensional body silhouette. Also, cutting lines, as a decoration element, can define the costume's image and characteristics. Therefore, by using cutting lines, we can represent historical costume as modern costume and men's wear as women's wear. I made five women's costumes applying design characteristics of the men's vest of the eighteenth century. These five women's costumes have decorative aspect of men's vest of eighteenth century and simple aspect of men's costume. I applied dart manipulation in several different ways to make various cutting lines for women's costume. These cutting lines were emphasized by matching various colors and patterns of fabrics. I made small buttons and cords of these various fabrics. I sewed fabric buttons on five costumes for the purpose of function and decoration like buttons of the men's vest of eighteenth century. I applied fabric cords to decorate five costumes in various way. We should further study how to express important characteristics of historical costumes as modern costume in many ways.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.380-386
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• 2016

This study examined the stainability and functionality of cotton dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. as a research preceding the development of health functional materials and fashion products with a healing motif. The CIELAB measurements of the cotton fabric dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. showed 73.32 for $L^*$, 1.7 for $a^*$, and 37.78 for $b^*$, while the Munsell measurements exhibited 2.63Y in color, 7.18 of brightness, and 5.49 of chroma. The degree of staining resulting from color fastness to laundering, and that resulting from color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline), as well as the level of color fastness to crocking (wet and dry) all stayed between relatively higher levels of 4 and 5. The fabric dyed also exhibited SPF 50+, an outstanding sun blocking performance. The deodorization rate was also excellent, rising from 97% to over 99% when the time elapsed increased from 30 minutes to 120 minutes. The fabric dyed also showed a 99.6% antimicrobial activity against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, and a 71.4% antimicrobial activity against Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352. The aforementioned findings indicate that fabrics dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. contain the potential to be developed for use as health-related materials and fashion products that promote healing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.620-629
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• 2013

This study examines the rustling sound characteristics of electrospun nanofiber web laminates according to layer structures. This study assesses mechanical properties and frictional sounds (such as SPL); in addition, Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters (such as Loudness (Z), Sharpness (Z), Roughness (Z), and Fluctuation strength (Z)) were calculated using the Sound Quality Program (ver.3.2, B&K, Denmark). The result determined how to control these characteristics and minimize rustling sounds. A total of 3 specimens' frictional sound (generated at 0.63 m/s) was recorded using a Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics (Korea Patent No. 10-2008-0105524) and SPLs were analyzed with a Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured with a KES-FB system. The SPL value of the sound spectrum showed 6.84~58.47dB at 0~17,500Hz. The SPL value was 61.2dB for the 2-layer PU nanofiber web laminates layered on densely woven PET(C1) and was the highest at 65.1dB for the 3-layer PU nanofiber web laminates (C3). Based on SPSS 18.0, it was shown that there is a correlation between mechanical properties and psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile properties (LT), weight (T), and bending properties (2HB) showed a high correlation with psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile linearity (LT) with Loudness (Z) showed a negative correlation coefficient; however, weight (T) with Sharpness (Z) and Roughness (Z), and bending hysteresis (2HB) with Roughness (Z) indicated positive correlation coefficients, respectively.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.12-19
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• 2006

For thermal adaptable fabrics, the polyurethane-urea microcapsules containing phase-change materials (PCMs: hexadecane, octadecane and eicosane) were successfully synthesized by interfacial polycondensation using 2,4-toluene diisocyanate (TDI)/poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG400)/ethylene diamine (EDA) as shell monomers and nonionic surfactant NP-12 in an emulsion system under stirring rates of $3,000{\sim}13,000$ rpm. The mean particle size of microcapsule decreased significantly with increasing the stirring rate up to 11,000 rpm, and then leveled off. The mean particle size increased with increasing the content and molecular weight (eicosane > octadecane > hexadecane) of PCMs at the same stirring rate. The mean particle sizes of microcapsules were found to decrease with increasing the NP-12 content up to 1.5 wt%, and thereafter increased a little. It was found that the melting temperature ($T_m$) and crystallization temperature ($T_c$) of three kinds of encapsulated PCMs and their enthalpy changes (${\Delta}H_m,{\Delta}H_c$) increased with increasing PCM contents. The encapsulation efficiencies (Ee) of hexadecane microcapsule linearly increased with increasing the content of hexadecane. It was found that the stable microcapsule containing 50 wt% of hexadecane could be obtained in this study. However, Ee of octadecane and eicosane microcapsules increased with increasing PCM's contents up to 40 wt%, and then decreased a little. By considering the encapsulation efficiency, it was found that the maximum/optimum contents of octadecane and eicosane microcapsules were about 40 wt%. By the dynamic thermal performance test, it was found that the maximum buffering levels of Nylon fabrics coated with hexadecane, octadecane, and eicosane microcapsules were about $-2.4/+2.9^{\circ}C,\;-3.6/+3.6^{\circ}C\;and\;-4.0/+4.7^{\circ}C$, respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.566-571
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• 2008

Frictional sounds of 8 vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by sound generator were recorded and analyzed through FFT fast Fourier transform analysis. The frictional Sounds were quantified by calculating level pressure of total sound(LPT), the level range(${\Delta}L$) and the frequency difference(${\Delta}f$). Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB. LPT values of specimens finished wet coating were higher than those of other kinds of finishing. ${\Delta}L$ values of specimens laminated were highest. Absolute values of ${\Delta}f$ were high in the cire finished and laminated specimens. Values for bending rigidity, shear stiffness and energy required for the compression of coated specimens increased compared with the cire finished and laminated specimens. Laminated specimens had high values of frictional coefficient and low values of surface roughness. Relationship between frictional sounds and mechanical properties analysed by use of correlation coefficients and stepwise regression. LPT showed significant correlation with elongation, tensile energy, geometrical roughness, weight and thickness. ${\Delta}L$ was highly correlated with tensile linearity, frictional coefficient, and ${\Delta}f$ with tensile linearity, weight and thickness. LPT were revealed to be explained by elongation and weight. ${\Delta}L$were predicted by tensile linearity, and ${\Delta}f$ by tensile linearity and thickness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.492-498
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• 2014

Lotus(Nelumbo nucifera gaertn) is intimate plant to many people that it has clean and noble characteristics despite growth in the mud. Especially Lotus seedpods, byproduct of lotus, are rich in oligometric procyanidins and could be a new source of procyanidins. Procyanidins, also known as condensed tannins, are a class of polyphenols. In other words lotus seedpod contains plenty of tannins. Commonly tannins colorants could increase adsorption and fastness properties in fabric dyeing. This study was made to investigate colorants characteristics of lotus seedpod and various colorfastness properties of dyed silk fabrics. The wavelength of maximum absorption of lotus seedpod solution appeared at 273.5 nm from UV-vis spectrophotometer. From the results of FT-IR spectra measurements, IR absorption band of lotus seedpod colorants appeared at $3415cm^{-1}$, $2900cm^{-1}$ and $1620cm^{-1}$ by tannin structure. And tannin ingredient contents was the highest at pH 9 and flavonoid at pH 11. Lotus seedpod colorants showed relatively good affinity at pH 3 on silk fabrics and optimum dyeing temperature and time for silk was for 50 min, at $80^{\circ}C$. K/s of Light fastness according to different washing method was the highest at process including ironing and ${\Delta}E$ was the lowest. All of fastness(Light rubbing laundering perspiration dry cleaning) showed excellent results over 4 or 4-5 grades.