• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.33-42
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to research the development of jacquard fabrics by the Bi-Dan patterns of Dan-Chung as one of the traditional korean symbols. For performing this design study, it designed a surface design of the geometric images in Bi-Dan patterns using by EAT Jacquard Textile CAD system and simulated to fabrics for the clothing & bags. To consider the modern image of Bi-Dan patterns in the Dan-Chung motives, the theoretical background was made on the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Dan-Chung patterns. To merchandise the fashion items and see the visual image, these jacquard fabric simulations was processed by two-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD. The applied weave structure was based on a single layer of 5 or 10 points-satin and a double layer of 8 points-satin. Among the fabric simulations of Bi-Dan patterns, the six simulated fabrics were woven into the real jacquard fabrics under the electronic Stabuli jacquard loom in $120{\sim}130$ picks per inch and 171 ends per inch. These developed jacquard fabrics of Bi-Dan patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they could make use of the unique korean cultural products by the further commercialization.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.400-406
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.961-967
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• 2009

In order to examine the availability of heat treatment for color developing in persimmon dyeing, the rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon extract from unripe persimmon which was used after stock and fermentation. Dyed fabrics were heated at various temperature and time by contacting press heat and drying heat. Color developing results were influenced by the difference of heating method. Press heating method is more available than drying heat method. Effect of temperature and time on ${\Delta}Ea^*b^*$ and color values of dyed rayon fabrics was considerable. Considering the practical aspect, The temperature around $140{\sim}160^{\circ}C$ and the time no longer 40 minutes can be reach the region of the full color developing by press heating process. It was very shortened than any other method(drying air heat, xenon radiation, sunlight). The dyed rayon fabrics with heat treatment have darker and deeper red-yellow color than which by sunlight and xenon radiation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.626-634
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• 2017

This study investigated garment formability of the 73 breathable fabrics for sports-wear garment and their fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Predicted garment formability from the mechanical properties measured using KES-FB and FAST systems was compared and discussed with fabric structural parameters. In addition, virtual 3D simulation silhouette by I-designer CAD system wear appearance by simulation using 3D CAD system. And compared with FAST finger chart by mechanical properties of FAST system. The correlation coefficients of extensibility and shear modulus between KES-FB and FAST systems were high, however, bending rigidity and compressibility showed relatively low correlation coefficients. The correlation coefficient of garment formability of breathable fabrics between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.82. It revealed that garment formability can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties by KES-FB and FAST systems. The garment formability of nylon breathable fabric was higher than that of PET one, and the garment formability of laminated breathable fabric showed the highest value compared to coated, dot and hot melt laminated breathable fabrics. It revealed that garment formability of breathable fabrics for sports-wear can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties and garment formability was dependent on the materials, finishing method and fabric structural parameters.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.456-461
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• 2014

The objective of this study is to give PP(polypropylene) fabric a good affinity for water. Oxygen plasma was treated to PP fabrics in a commercial glow discharge reactor with different RF power, discharge pressure, and reaction time. The PP fiber surfaces were characterized by the measurement of contact angle and ESCA. A JEOL scanning electron microscope was used to observe the surface morphology of fibers. The spontaneous water uptake amount of PP fabrics was determined by the demand wettability test. To determine the effect of aging on the surface properties of $O_2$ plasma treated PP, all the above measurements of the samples were carried out after 1, 7, 30, 60, and 150 days. The results are as follows. The PP fiber surfaces treated by $O_2$ plasma treatment have a chemical composition that consisted of various oxygen containing polar groups. Consequently, the contact angles of the treated PP fibers decreased, which improved the water uptake rate of PP fabrics. Surface roughness of the treated PP affected the fabric wettabiity as well. Wettability of the treated PP decreased and leveled off with aging. The $O_2$ plasma treatment is a simple and effective method to increase the water uptake rate of PP fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.868-879
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to scan the textiles having been used for Hanbok since the 1945 Liberation. This paper states the situation of textile industry related to Hanbok. On the basis of this, the popularized textiles of each term and their characteristics are arranged. From 1945 to 1950, in the middle of disorder of this Liberation term, the clothing situation was very bad, so the majority of people wore clothing of Moomyung or Kwangmok. In the 50s, Moomyung, Kwangmok, Okyangmok, and Poplin were popularized. People could use more different kinds of textile then such as Chokyundan, Hobakdan, Newttong, Mobondan, Popdan, and Nylon. In the 60s, Chemical fibers, beginning to come in from the 50s, were their favorites, with which they made Hanbok and Western style dresses as well. Their characteristics were to have an cubic and ornamental effect on the surface. In the 70s, Yangdan, Newttong and other typical fabrics for Hanbok were manufactured with chemical fibers. they intended to give the ornamental effect by putting gold foil, embroidery, printing, and pictures on the surface of the fabrics. In the 80s, there were no seasonable fabrics for Hanbok during this term, as all-year-round fabric like Nobangzu was in common use. In the 90s, seasonable fabrics reappeared. Owing to the increasing interest in our typical fabrics like Mosi, Mobondan, and Hangra began to be in use again.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1985

To determine the change of the mechanical properties of the wool/polyester blend fabrics in proportion to blend ratio, 10 mechanical properties were measured on 6 blend fabrics by KES-F system. Blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics was increased by $20\%$, and the structure of the fabric were plain, 2/2 twill, respectively. And wearing performances in propoetion to blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics were investigated. In this experiment. the following conclusions were obtained with the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 1) The values of WT, RT in tensile properties. tensile energy and elongation, and RC in compressional properties were decreased. 2) The values of B, 2HB in bending properties, 2HG. 2HG 5 in shearing properties were increased. 3) Putting on clothes, wearing performance was bad because crumbling of shape and wrinkle were easily made an appearance. Particularly it was remarkably bad as blend ratio of polyester was expressed $60\%$.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.29-38
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• 2009

Natural dyes seem to be more profitable on human and environment, and recently they could be considered as a better alternative to synthesized dyes. The aim of the current work was to investigate the dyeing property and antimicrobial activity of commercial cotton fabrics dyed with kumazasa (usually called in japan) which is known as conventional japan bamboo leaves. Actually, the dyeability and antimicrobial property of dyed fabric with natural mordant/dyeing was compared with synthetic mordant/dye process. The results of this study obtained are as follows. The apparently colour of kumazasa leaves extract dyed fabrics showed with light green or slightly yellow-green. In colorfastness to washing, ${\Delta}E$ and K/S values of dyed fabrics with natural chitosan as mordant used was shown to be more excellent results, than was synthetic mordant used. However, the decrease rate was recorded nearly 50% when washing repeated 20 cycles. In result of antimicrobial effect for bacteria, the dyed fabrics didn't show the significant antimicrobial activity to the both dyed with and without mordant. Results of this investigation considered that low-cost, natural, bio-mordant are relatively effective in natural coloration.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.6 s.85
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• pp.27-35
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• 2005

Conventional pad- dry-cure(thermo-fixation) process usually produces functional performance on both sides of a fabric. UV curing technique was applied to impart water- and oil-repellent finish effective only on the face of a PET knitted fabric. The preferential one-side coating, by virtue of the limited penetration of UV light, was achieved by W curing after padding of a fluorocarbon agent without special coating or printing equipments. The difference in the functional property of face and back sides was examined by measuring water and oil repellency at each side of the treated fabric. The influence of pre/post-irradiation dose and agent concentration on the performance of the finished fabrics were investigated. While increase in both resin concentration and post-irradiation did not have significant effect on the finish, UV pre-irradiation of PET fabrics caused remarkable influence presumably due to appropriate surface modification of PET fabrics required for facile wetting of the resin. The dimensional stability and color change of the UV cured fabrics measured by FAST and reflectance spectrophotometry showed significantly decreased color difference and increased percent extension compared with the samples pre-irradiated without agent application.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.92-100
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• 2016

To chemically prepare polypyrrole(pPy) coated fabrics(silk, cotton and nylon fabrics), the fabrics were first soaked in 0.4M oxidant $FeCl_3$/0.06M dopant anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid solution for 5min at room temperature, and subsequently soaked in a 0.4M monomer pyrrole aqueous solution for 5min at room temperature. The content(wt%) of coated pPy in the coated fabrics was controlled by the number of treatments(these two steps). This study examined the effect of the number of treatments/pPy content on the sheet resistance, mechanical/bending properties and color behaviors of pPy coated fabrics. The coated pPy content, sheet resistance(${\Omega}$/square) and color strength(K/S) of pPy coated fabrics increased sharply with increasing number of treatments up to 20 times, while the increase slowed down afterward. The tensile strength, elongation at break and lightness($L^*$) decreased with increasing number of treatments. The tensile modulus and bending rigidity of coated fabrics increased significantly with increasing number of treatments/coated pPy content. This indicated that the flexibility of coated fabrics decreased considerably.