• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.79-85
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• 2002

To develope natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the waste grape juice. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing time, dyeing temperature, pH and concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(${\Delta}E$) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk dyed fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were very slightly increased with dyeing time and the color of dyed silk was light purple and the cotton, ramie and hemp was light red purple. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color became lighter with dyeing temperature increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color changed from light purple to blue with the pH of dyebath increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were slightly increased with the concentration of dyebath increased. The color of dyed fabric changed with the mordant treatment and were different among the experimental fabrics. On the whole, blue tone increased with the Al and Fe mordant and green tone increased with the Cu mordant. The color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to light, washing (change) and perspiration (change) was bad and color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing were good.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.75-81
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• 2008

This paper dealt with the synthesis and characterization of the polymeric product by the reaction of the water-soluble poly(vinyl alcohol)[PVA] nonwoven fabrics and the phosphoryl chloride ($POCl_3$), which has been applied to prepare water-proofing materials or intermediates for increasing water-proofing or fire-proofing ability of commercially available water-soluble PVA support layer. $POCl_3$ was reacted with PVA nonwoven fabrics under non-aqueous condition, and their reactivity, and chemical structure were checked and discussed. PVA was reacted with $POCl_3$ under the reaction condition of 1:1, or 1:2 mole ratios at 70, 80 and $90^{\circ}C$, and the reaction products were further hydrolyzed. The structure of the resulting products from water soluble PVA nonwoven fabrics reacted with $POCl_3$ were identified by FT-IR or X-ray fluorescence spectrophotometer, and they indicated the PVA polymer chains to have phosphorous and chlorine moieties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.231-238
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• 2017

There are many kinds of elements and processes for the development of high quality bedding products like fiber, high-temperature heat treatment, dyeing process, tenter drying with softening agent and multiple final finishing. Especially we examined the mechanical characteristic properties of fabrics according to different yarn types. The critical physical properties of the yarn consisting the pile knitted fabrics were obtained for the development of the hi-grade bedding items. The material property and the exhaustion behaviour of the developed pile knitted fabrics composing of different yarns were measured and observed. The physical properties of the developed fabric were evaluated through the material property analysis of the yarn, the physical nature of the pile knitted fabrics and the data of the exhaustion performance; tensile strength, tensile elongation, tearing strength, cross section of yarn types, dyeing properties etc. And then high-class of bedding items were knitted using the double raschel machine to make the pile knitted fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.65-69
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• 2013

PET fabrics of various luster, fiber thickness(denier), and weaving structure were dyed at the same conditions and determined their grey scale by using naked eyes, computer color matching (CCM) system, and real industry color (RIC) device to evaluate the effectiveness of RIC device developed in this study. As for the luster of fabrics, bright PET showed more differences when compared with semi-dull and full-dull. PET in both naked eyes and RIC device since the RIC device provide the real image of fabrics to observers. As for the fiber thickness, the results of naked eyes and RIC device were very similar while the result of CCM showed lower color grade. Finally, as for the weaving structures of PET fabrics, all the test results by naked eyes, CCM, and RIC device showed almost same grey scales. In these regards, the RIC device developed in this study was comparable to naked eyes by providing the real image of fabrics, however it was difficult to compare the very bright colors such as yellow and fiber thickness(denier) and weaving structure of fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.256-265
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1444-1452
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• 2001

Textile materials are frequently in contact with surfactant solutions during their manufacturing or finishing processes as well as cleaning processes in use. Liquid wetting, wicking and absorbency of textile materials, and the liquid properties, surface characteristics and pore geometry of textile materials, and the liquie-solid interactions, In this paper, 10 different nonionic surfactants, including Span 20, Twen 20, 40, 60, 80, 21, 61, 81, 65, 85, were used. The surfactants were characterized by their hydrophile-lipophile-balance (HLB) values, structures, and surface tensions. The 0.1g/dL and 1.0g/dL surfactant solutions, which were both above critical micelle concentration (CMC), were used to see the concentration effects on the wetting and absorbency of cotton fabrics. The wetting behavior and liquid retention properties of hydrophobic cotton fabrics with different nonionic surfactant solutions are reported. The contact angles are greatly decreased and the water retention values are greatly increased by adding most of the surfactants studied into the system. The extents of this effects are influenced by the characteristics of surfactants and its solutions. Hydrophilic surfactants which have low number of carbon atoms or unsaturated hydrophobe structures are more effective in improving the wetting and absorbancy of hydrophobic cotton fabrics. The water retention of hydrophobic cotton fabrics has positive relations with $cos{\theta}$, adhesion tension and work of adhesion. The 1.0g/dL surfactant solutions show similar, but slightly improved wetting and absorbency characteristics of hydrophobic cotton fabrics compared to the 0.1g/dL surfactant solutions.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.18-25
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• 2007

The fixing behaviors of anthraquinone disperse dyes containing dimethylamino substituent, such as C. I. Disperse Violet 26(D.V.26) and C. I. Disperse Blue 14(D.V.14), or containing diamino substituent, such as C. I. Disperse Blue 73(D.B.73), and monochlorotriazinyl azo reactive dyes, such as C. I. Reactive Orange 13(R.O.13), C. I. Reactive Red 3(R.R.3). C. I. Reactive Yellow 2(R.Y.2) on polyester/cotton blend(P/C) fabrics were examined for the one-step printing of P/C fabrics. The high temperature steaming of $175^{\circ}C$ is the most satisfactory fixing method for P/C one-step printing with above disperse and reactive dyes among the four different fixing methods: $175^{\circ}C$ steaming, $102^{\circ}C$ steaming${\rightarrow}175^{\circ}C$ steaming, $190^{\circ}C$ thermosol, $102^{\circ}C$ steaming${\rightarrow}190^{\circ}C$ thermosol. $190^{\circ}C$ thermosol is unfit to fix R.R.3 and R.Y.2 whose heat stability is poor. It was found that D.V.26 and D.B.14 containing dimethylamino substituent are unstable for heat and alkali, but D.B.73 is stable for them to print P/C blend fabrics with R.O.13 which is also stable for heat. Therefore we found that D.B.73, R.O.13 and a pair of D.B.73 and R.O.13 were very suitable for one-step printing of P/C blend fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1993.06b
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• pp.413-417
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• 1993

A study has been conducted on the mechanical properties of two sort of woven silk fabrics, i.e. habutae and dechine, with KES-류 handle measurement system. The mechanical properties are compared with their structural parameters, such as fabric densities, thickness