• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.344-349
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• 2009

Optimum dyeing conditions of green tea extracts were investigated toward nylon, cotton, rayon, and tencel fabrics. Affinity of green tea extracts was exhibited much higher onto nylon fabric than the other cellulosics. As for nylon, the adsorption was increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and optimum dyeing pH was around 4~6. Buildup property of green tea extract was good showing a linear relationship between concentration of the extracts and color strength of dyed fabrics within experimental range. Color fastnesses were good to excellent in general except to light.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.1-6
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• 1997

Water repellent finish was carried out using water repellent agent(AG-480), melamine resin(Sumitex Resin MK), and catalyst(Sumitex Accelerator ACX). PET/nylon fabrics were treated with melamine resin by pad-dry-cure method and subsequently washed and dried. Durable water repellency was controlled by the melamine resin and catalyst. Water repellency was tested by spray rating method and durability of water repellency were measured by launder-O-meter and pilling tester. The optimum conditions of durable water repellent finish for new synthetic fabric were as follows; concentration of water repellent finishing agent 20g/l; concentration of melamine & catalyst 0.5g/l; curing condition $160^{\circ}$ ${\times}$ 30sec. Water repellency after washing and rubbing is improved by melamine resin and catalyst.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.648-659
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• 2012

This research categorizes fundamental data needed to develop eco-friendly fabrics treated with bamboo leaf & pine leaf extracts. The effect of mordant on those fabrics was analyzed through the measurement of mechanical properties and the estimation of primary hand values for cotton and silk fabrics dyed with bamboo leaf and pine leaf extracts that were later treated with various mordants. When cotton was dyed with bamboo leaves and pine leaves extracts, EM, WT, 2HB, 2HG, 2HG5, LC, T, and W increased however, RT, SMD, and RC decreased compared to raw cotton fabric. The B, G, and MIU increased after mordant treatment to the dyed cotton and resulted in a stiffer and rougher cotton's hand. EM, WT, RT, MIU, WC, T, and W increased (in terms of silk); however, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, MMD, SMD, and LC decreased compared to raw silk fabric. Similar to the dyed cotton, mordant treatment increased the MIU and LC of dyed silk subsequently, the hand became stiffer and rougher. A greater tannin adsorption results in an increased mechanical property and the primary hand value. For both fabrics, mordant treatment made its smoothness drop. However, the scale of drop for cotton was significant, while the scale of the drop for silk was minor. In terms of type of mordant, femordant and natural-mordant treatment influenced the tensile, shear, surface properties of fabrics, and primary hand values more than Cu-mordant and synthetic-mordant in addition, this increased the stiffness, hardness, and roughness of fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.203-208
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• 2019

This paper considers the moisture permeability and fashion in the upper fabrics of cotton fabric shoes woven into various tissues and properties measured to examine the use as upper fabrics. We measured the tissues of the manufactured upper fabric are 1/3 twill, $4{\times}4$ weft rib, Maya, Triple, Deformed twill design (DTD), Diamond tissues and tear strength, tensile strength, breaking elongation, stretching under load at 100N, stitch tear resistance, and fastness. In the case of $4{\times}4$ weft rib, the tear strength and tensile strength were excellent; however, the elongation and stitch tear resistance at 100N load were less than the standard value. DTD fabrics are characterized by physical properties in the warp direction that are superior to those in the weft direction; however, the tear strength and tensile strength in the weft direction are less than the standard value. The 1/3 twill fabrics showed high tensile strength value and stitch tear resistance value in the warp direction; however, toughness, the main property of the shoe upper, was below the standard value. Triple and diamond fabrics, which have a significant effect on the performance of the shoe upper fabric, also had less than the standard value of tear strength. Maya upper fabric for shoes has better properties than other upper fabrics except for the elongation at break, and the stitch tear resistance has a value of 178% in the warp direction and 214% in the weft direction compared to the standard value. Therefore, the Maya fabric showed the possibility of being used as an upper textile for shoes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.129-143
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• 2006

This study is to review the printed cotton textile industry of Europe in 17th-l8th century, and specially investigate the development of the Toile do Jouy, printed French fabrics around the 18th century. Generally, the Toile de Jouy has two different meanings. The first meaning is the popular printed cotton textiles producted by wood block printing, copper plate printing and roller printing techniques at Jouy on Joas factory in France, around 18th century. The second meaning is the monochromatic upholstery fabrics printed by copper plate. Actually, this monochromatic printed textiles were the most popular printed cotton fabrics with large scale scenic designs with people, trees, birds, buildings, mythical heroes, protagonists of novel and country scenes of shepherds, sheep and other animals manufactured by Jouy on Joas factory. Main issue of this paper is to propose features of pattern, color and classify types of patterns expressed on the Toile de Jouy fabrics according to printing techniques such as wood block printing, copper plate printing and copper roller printing. And this study is also to analyze on origins of the variety of names called the printed cotton textiles in those days. The results of this study can help to understand the knowledge of printed cotton textiles in Europe and be effectively applied to develop printed fabric design in the textile industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.77-91
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• 2016

Recently, the spun blend yarns with staple fibers and filaments are being developed in the spinning process using an air blowing and electrostatic spinning technology(cyclone) in order to enhance the soft feeling and the fine count spun blend yarn manufacturing competitiveness. In this study, the appropriate separation condition of polyester multifilament was examined according to the treatment condition of conductive agents and voltage on polyester multifilament in the newly developed cyclone spinning process. And it was investigated the physical properties and dyeability of the cyclone wool/polyester spun blend yarns and its wool composite fabrics in comparison with existing sirofil wool/polyester spun blend yarn and its fabrics. As the result, it is determined that the newly developed cyclone wool/polyester spun blend yarn applied fabrics has a superior quality level in terms of practicality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.101-110
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• 2007

Since cotton fabrics with ripple finish treatment form wavy furrows on the surface or bumpy patterns, air circulation during wearing is good and the fabric is cool to the touch. The finishing principle is based on the mercerization, which utilizes the fact that cotton fibers contract in a concentrated NaOH solution. In this study, as fabric specimens, cotton fabrics with yarn counts of 40's, 60's and 80's were used. Concentrations of the NaOH solutions were 15%, 25%, and 35%. After dyeing fabrics using Rubia akane nakai, color and other properties were measured. As the concentration of the NaOH solution increased, the fabric became thicker and denser, and the number of occurrence of the prominence and depression per unit length became larger. The color of the region contracted by ripple finish became darker after dyeing, while the color of the untreated region became lighter, which enhanced the cubic effect of the ripple finish. As the count of the cotton yarn increased, the dyeability became better. As the concentration of the NaOH solution increased, the air permeability became lower.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.127-137
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• 2012

This study focuses on the optimal washing conditions for dry cleaning recommended fabrics to minimize dimensional changes using wet cleaning. We suggest water-based alternatives to a perchloroethylene based cleaning process. Wool and rayon fabrics were laundered under various washing conditions and then air-dried for 24hrs. All specimens were extended after spinning and shrunk after drying. This is probably because the fibers were swollen and extended by wetting. The wool fabrics were shown to be acutely influenced by washing temperature and mechanical force. The optimal washing conditions for wool fabric to minimize the dimensional change implied a normal washing temperature and minimized mechanical force. For rayon specimens, dimensional change by a hand wash showed a remarkable decrease compared with a machine wash. Rayon fabric seemed to be influenced by the quantity of water contained in the fabric after spinning and washing time. Therefore, the desirable washing conditions for rayon fabric are to reduce the time required for washing and to increase the spin speed.