• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.453-459
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide the basic knowledge to determine the proper seam finish according to the design of sewing products. Four seam finishes(no seam finishes, over-edged seam finishes, turned-and-stitched seam finishes, and bias-bound seam finishes) were constructed with seams in warp, weft and bias directions of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18cm diameter supporting disks and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Drape coefficients of the fabrics increased with seam formation and varied by the seam finishes, however no significant differences in drape coefficients by the seam finishes were observed on the heavier fabric. Node numbers of heavier fabric were more deeply affected by the seam finishes than those of lighter fabric. The specimens with turned-and-stitched seam finishes and bias-bound seam finishes showed significantly smaller node numbers compared to the specimens with no seam finishes and over-edged seam finishes on heavier fabric. The length of the seamed part showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens and negative correlation with the number of nodes in each seam direction. The maximum length of all draped specimens was found in the same direction as the seam direction. In the case of the lighter fabric, the seam and the seam finish had a great influence on the shape of the draped profile.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.462-468
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• 2014

This study investigates the dyeability of soybean protein fabric after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at $60^{\circ}C$ and 60min. Soybean protein fabric was dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. After dyeing with gallut solution, dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation. Al, Cu and Fe were employed as a mordanting agents. Various color changing were produced by the interactions of mordants that were different from soybean protein fabric; however, Al mordant was not indicated as a variable color change. Fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Consequently, the dyeability of the soybean protein fabric dyed with gallut showed reasonable results at 100% o.w.f, $90^{\circ}C$, for 60min. Fastness to washing according to concentration indicated good result as more than grade (4-5) in general. Fastness to light was almost the same compared to fastness to washing at all concentrations. Fastness to washing according to mordants indicated good grade (4) in principle at Al, Cu, and Fe; in addition, fastness to light indicated a good grade too. Fastness to light also indicated the highest dyeability at Fe mordant. This study shows that gallut is a reasonable dyestuff to soybean protein fabric and that it is possible to manufacture a variety of products that use soybean protein fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.196-207
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• 2014

This study considers expression types and aesthetic characteristics by analyzing Animal sculptures by Billie Achilleos in art collaboration with Louis Vuitton. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, As for expressin type shown in the art collaboration, it is reflected the historical and cultural value peculiar to a country symbolized through animals. As the aesthetic characteristics of symbolism, it reflects historical identity of country by using an image of a symbolic animal representing a state. Second, as the type shown in physical characteristics of animals by utilizing items in Louis Vuitton directly, it is organically expressed a literal type by directly integrating a form having been designed as a commodity itself into the characteristically physical part of an animal. As the aesthetic characteristics according to this is naturality, the motive of the work having borrowed shapes of diverse animals or insects can be said to have been naturally reflected in the primitive natural beauty. Third, through the deconstruction and recombination of a Louis Vuitton item. the amusement of the aesthetic characteristics was expressed in a type having the structurally embodied dynamic movement of an animal, and is expressing visual fun. Fourth, it uses expression type emphasized a specific part of an animal by decorating accessories in Louis Vuitton partly. The aesthetic characteristics is Ornament, the value of craft decoration is being shown by using colorful visual effects by using materials with the colorful textures and patterns of fabrics or mixing embroidery or beads, and belt decoration.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.486-492
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• 2017

This study finds surface color and functions of natural dyeing from Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves which help cure skin problems such as atopic dermatitis. This study also seeks to find dyeing properties and functions of natural colorants derived from Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum on silk. Dyeing properties and functions are compared between silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum. The comparison examines the feasibility of developing healthy and high functional fabrics and wellness of fashion merchandises. Silk dyeing with Chamaecyparis obtuse leaves yields yellow and double coloring from Chamaecyparis obtusa; however, Rubia tinctorum yields yellow/red on silks. Silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum show a high level on dry cleaning, ultraviolet protection and deodorization. Especially, the dyed silks from leaves of Chamaecyparis obtusa show a 99.7% antimicrobial effect against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 653B. Silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum are better known for medicinal herb for dermatitis, and natural colorant, Rubia tinctorum does not improve significantly functions compared with silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa. However, the dyeing properties improve by composite dyeing. This implies that ways to maximize effects of tie-dyeing technique could be developed.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.126-133
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• 2013

Although para-aramid fibers poss higher mechanical properties, they show very low resistance to sunlight exposure. This paper studied on the effect of nano-sol coated $TiO_2$ to improve the photo-stability of p-aramid fibers. Titanium dioxides were prepared by sol-gel method from titanium iso-propoxide at different R ratio ($H_2O$/titanium iso-propoxide). All samples were characterized by XRD, TEM and UV-vis spectrometer. The mechanical properties of p-aramid fabrics by $TiO_2$ nano-sol coating before and after sunlight irradiation were measured with tensile tester. XRD pattern of titanium dioxide particles was observed by mixing phase together with rutile and anatase type. The results showed, after sunlight irradiation, the decreased mechanical properties of the fiber. Furthermore, the sunlight irradiation obviously deteriorated the surface and defected areas of the fiber severely by photo-induced chain scission and end group oxidation in air.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권5호
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• pp.416-422
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• 2000

In this study, to find out the physiological reaction of the human body and the sensation of comfort when people are wearing sportswear which is made of waterproof breathable fabrics under general environmental conditions (temperature : $20{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, humidity : $60{\pm}5%RH$, air current : 0.1 m/sec) and rainy environmental conditions (temperature : $20{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, humidity : $60{\pm}5%RH$, air current : 0.1 m/sec, rainfall : 250 1/hr), we made an experiment with sportswear in an artificial climate chamber and studied the thermal physiological response and subjective sensation. Mean skin temperature of the subjects was low and had a big range of fluctuation in rainy environmental conditions of two condition. Temperature started to increase at the beginning of the exercise, reached the maximum at the 2nd level of the exercise and then started to decline. Rectal temperature showed a slighter increase and bigger range of fluctuation in general conditions than in rainy conditions. Except clothing micro climate in rainy conditions, temperature and humidity and their range of fluctuation around back were higher than those around chest. Humidity was high and had wide range of fluctuation in general conditions. Heart rate was 4.4 beats/min higher in general conditions. In subjective test on rainy conditions, the feeling of discomfort increased due to the raindrops fallen on the skin. Unlike that in general conditions, cold sensation increased and humidity sensation reached to the peak after the exercise. In wearing sportswear made of shape memory breathable waterproof fabric, controlling function over a small amount of heat and water was distinctive while it turned out to be not so comfortable over a large amount of heat and water. Through this, the limitation of shape memory breathable waterproof fabric was recognised.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.90-99
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to compare female members's jumper and jacket preferences for five different styles of Fall/Winter jumpers and jackets, divided into three age groups(65-69 yr, 70-74 yr, over 75 yr). Total 324 senior females, ages over 65 in Kimhae and Busan area were chosen for the study. The major findings of this study were as follow; For the age group, 65 to 69, in the jumper category, it was important for them to look slender and sophisticated. Jumpers with quilted thin fabrics, jumpers with hooded jumpers zippers, and short chinese collar in the short blouson style were preferred in the age group. Jacket needed to be designed in A-line styles, short or long with one or two buttons and of various length. For those in the 70 to 74 age group, the jumper designs need to be tidy and clean with box-shaped pockets. In addition, various formal style jumpers with increasing length up to hip lines. For jackets, it is necessary to increase the number of designs with convertible collars with three button in front, elegantly covered pocket, long enough to cover the hip line. For those in the age group of 75 or over, it was essential for jumpers and jackets to be of increasing length in box style, loose-fit with, front-closure or snap buttons and out pockets that allows one to put their hands in the jumper. They preferred jacket length down to the hip-line, wing collar for jumpers, tailored collar for jackets more than the other age groups.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.642-649
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• 2010

This study was designed to generate briefs pattern for women in their twenties using 3D parametric body model. 151 women in their 20's were random sampled and measured using Martine's anthropometry. And one subject was chosen as the representative subject for 3D scanning. Parametric model was generated of using CATIA P3, Unigraphics NX4.0, Rapidform 2006. And the 3D surface of parametric body model was flattened onto the 2D plane. 3 downscale ratios(0%, 10%, 15%) were applied to generated pattern to figure out what downscale ratio was suitable to make briefs with stretch fabric. 4 kinds of experimental briefs were made with stretch fabrics(0%, 10%, 15% downscale) and worn on the dressform. Subjective evaluation on the appearance was done and the data was analyzed by ANOVA with post-hoc test. Briefs pattern was generated through the process of flattening the parametric surface and arranging the patches to make briefs pattern by dart manipulation. The different ration of outline and area between 3D surface and 2D pattern were 0.22% and 0.09% respectively. It showed that a parametric model could provide a desirable pattern with minute size error. The results of subjective evaluation on the appearance of 4 experimental briefs showed that stretch briefs with 15% downscale ratio was evaluated most highly in most items. Findings imply that it is feasible to apply 3D parametric model to generate patterns for various items considering various fabric properties.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.564-573
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in special monthly magazines relevant to the traditional magazine. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are largely classified into single and composite types. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, embroideries and seonchigi or multi-colored stripes and seonchigi is often used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, seop, goreum or coat strings, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have no pattern on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Git used for jeogori is largely classified into dangko git and donggrae git in type. Its color is in most cases same as the main color of jeogori. Keutdong for jeogori is usually 4 to 5.5 cm in breadth, classified as type II. Its color is in most cases white. Goreum for jeogori is usually large in length. Its color is most cases same as that of jegori or reddish purple or blackish red purple.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.