• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.82-95
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of golden decoration technique out of various techniques of expressing patterns on the costumes. This study reviews both costumes decorated with gold in the relics of Chosun dynasty and literatures focused on domestic and Chinese documents and records. The types of decoration technique using gold include JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (gold powder and flake attaching technique), and GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique). The JigGeum is weaved using golden thread instead of silk thread in order to express patterns. The InGeum technique is to attach gold or silver powder or thin gold or silver flake on the surface of the fabric. The GeumSaJaSu technique is to embroider with gold thread on fabrics. 82 pieces of costumes made using gold in Chosun dynasty era are analyzed. The results follows; In terms of types of technique, is shown to take the majority; JigGeum (43.90%), InGeum (30.49%), GeumSaJaSu (23.61%). Looking at the patterns used by the types, plant pattern and letter pattern are mostly used for both the JigGeum and the inGeum. In terms of the characteristics by their uses, the InGeum is used for court dresses (52%). It is also used for ordinary dresses (12%) and for other purposes (36%). It is mostly used in the court dresses in the late period of Chosun dynasty era. The JigGeum is used for ordinary dresses (47.22%), for court dresses (44.44%) and for other purposes (8.34%). It is evenly used for court dresses and ordinary dresses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.337-343
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimal dyeing conditions and human-friendly properties of the extract from the branches of Alnus firma tree which is widely used for forestation and to provide basic information for quantification and commercialization of natural dyeing by discovering such as dye material. The optimal dyeing conditions, as a result, were shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time. In terms of dye uptake depending on the mordanting methods, it showed the best result in order of Fe, Sn, Cu and Al at pre-mordanting while found strong in order of Fe, Cu, Al and Sn at post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing and dry cleaning was found strong at grade 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at 2. The grade of change in color to rubbing and perspiration was good at 4-5. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 96.1% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneuminiae. It is considered, therefore, the extract from Alnus firma tree is of great value as an eco-friendly natural dyestuff.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.56-64
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• 1981

The textile fabric contains the functions of sanitation, decoration, wearing style and washing in the practical use. Among various tetile fiber, silk has less utilities than synthetic fiber in practical use although silk has good benefits of the high quality of silk fabric. Thus no textile fiber, neither natural norsynthetic, has all the functions. In this sense, many compound fabrics have been improved to reveal various functions of fabric However, this has been disturbed with the problem of dyeing, expecially in the case of compound fabric of silk. The work is carried out to improve the dyeing method of compound fabric of polyester and silk. The results obtained are as follows: 1. In the dyeing of compound fabric(P/S fabric), azo dyes was more suitable than anthraquinone dyes. 2. According to the carrier, dyeing spot was appeared by the high concentration in bath. 3. Degree of dye fixation was decreased in dyeing of methylnaptharine carrier(D.N) and anion disperser(T.S). 4. The affinity of dye was suitable in the dyeing bath of azo dye, trichlorobenzene carrier and nonion disperser. 5. Dye fixation of silk side in compound fabric by acid dye showed higher in acid bath of dyeing. 6. In printing of silk and polyester compound fabric, it must be understood relationship among fibers, dyes, and steaming conditions.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.60-60
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• 2012

최근 들어서 소비성향의 고급화 추세와 고기능성 및 쾌적성의 추구는 발수성의 개발로 이어져왔다. Polyester, Nylon 등 다양한 합성섬유소재의 발전으로 발수기능이 상품가치의 중요한 요소로 자리잡고 있다. 더 나아가 표면과 이면이 서로 다른 특성을 가지도록 유도하여 편면기능성을 부여하는 가공을 응용한다면 더욱 더 고부가가치를 기대할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 불소계로 발수 처리된 Polyester직물 및 Nylon/PU 혼방직물에 저온 플라즈마를 출력 50W, 1, 3, 5, 7 분 처리하여 편발수성을 검토하였다. 불소계 발수제로 코팅처리한 Polyester직물의 경우 5분간 Plasma처리하면 접촉각이 미처리 시료의 $149^{\circ}$에서 처리 후, 앞면 $71.56^{\circ}$, 뒷면 $126.94^{\circ}$,Nylon/PU 혼방직물의 경우에는 $155.3^{\circ}$에서 앞면 $63.24^{\circ}$, 뒷면 $139.26^{\circ}$로 크게 편면 친수화 되었다. 그 결과로 볼 때 플라즈마처리에 의해 편면발수 가공으로 서의 효과를 얻을 수 있었다. SEM 관찰을 통해 Polyester직물 및 Nylon/PU혼방 직물에 플라즈마 처리한 후 처리시간에 따른 펴면의 발수가공 층이 파괴되는 것을 알 수 있었다. 이는 표면에서의 발수효과가 플라즈마처리에 의해 친수화가 진행된 결과와 일치한다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.972-982
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to improve the method of color developing with alkali solution as a promotor of color developing for feasible use. Cotton fabric was dyed with persimmon extract ranged with 0~3% alkali component with 5 types of strong to mild alkali solution. Heat treatment for color developing was applied to fabric dyed with persimmon extract and alkali mixing solution. Tests were carried out to analyze the change of surface color, ${\Delta},Ea^*b^*$, and water repellent of the dyed cotton fabric. The alkali mixing sample showed higher ${\Delta},Ea^*b^*$ value than control one without alkali mixing on the base of dyed fabric due to high color developing by alkali in the initial step of dyeing process. As alkali concentration increased, deeper dark color appeared on the fabric. The fabric color was changed to more dark in the application of sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate in the initial step of dyeing process but color was not changed by increased heating time. However, the fabric showed a slight dark color with sodium acetate and more color change than that of the fabric dyed with persimmon extract without alkali. Therefore, sodium acetate seemed to a suitable promotor for color developing in persimmon extract dyeing. Property of water repellent was showed after color developing by heating with low concentration of alkali treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.928-939
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• 2012

This study evaluates wear comforts of water-vapor-permeable (WVP) garments through a measurement of various parameters such as skin and rectal temperatures, microclimate between skin and clothing, sweat rate, and subjective sensations (thermal, wet and comfort sensations) to correlate the physiological responses of the human body with its comfort feeling. Wear comfort during a specific exercise on a treadmill in a climatic chamber (temperature T = $20{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ and relative humidity H = $50{\pm}10%$) were studied using eight men wearing seven sportswear outfits (a long sleeve shirts and a long pants) made with seven different WVP fabrics. A comfort sensation was found to be highly correlated with skin T (p<.001), microclimate (T and H) between skin and clothing (p<.001) and sweat rate (p<.05). A regression model correlating comfort sensations and physiological responses obtained from wearer trials could be established: Y = 14.167 - 0.362 ${\times}$ X1 + 0.424 ${\times}$ X2 - 0.238 ${\times}$ X3 - 0.561 ${\times}$ X4 + 0.253 ${\times}$ X5 + 0.214 ${\times}$ X6 - 0.393 ${\times}$ X7 + 0.023 ${\times}$ X8 - 0.043 ${\times}$ X9. (Y = comfort sensation, X1 = forehead skin T, X2 = forearm skin T, X3 = hand skin T, X4 = thigh skin T, X5 = T of chest microclimate, X6 = T of thigh microclimate, X7 = chest sweat rate, X8 = H of back microclimate, X9 = H of thigh microclimate. The regression model obtained in this work can be used by manufacturers to objectively estimate the comfort sensation of sportswear before it is introduced to the consumer market. This study provides salient information to sportswear manufacturers and sportswear consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2010

Study is a basic analysis of a future virtual clothing system based on a comparative analysis of all the shirring, using a 3-dimensional apparel cad system. Frilled skirts shirred at the lower hemline were the subject of this study for a comparison of expression and shape of shirring. It compared the silhouette and details expressed in virtual and real skirts made of woolen fabrics and polyester satin, with different widths (1.5, 2 and 2.5 widths). It was found that the virtual skirt could not express shirring as exquisitely as the real skirt due to fabric thickness and other fabric characteristics. In addition, the increase in widths caused the frill shape to deform badly. In the case of a virtual skirt made of polyester satin, the increased multiplication factor let the frill spread out sharply (unlike the real skirt). Simulated skirts of polyester satin and woolen spread out to the sides with the sidelines of their frills hanging down markedly (unlike the real cloths) when the frills changed from 1.5 widths to 2 widths. When it came to the virtual skirt, side-line from the hip down all the way short of frill contorted with the wrinkle multiplication factor of 2 and 2.5 widths. This phenomenon was more notable in polyester satin skirts than in woolen skirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.47-59
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• 2015

This paper studies the conservation treatment of Lady Shim's costume, which was excavated in Jecheon Province in 2012. There were the significant problems, which were encountered in the treatment of the costume ; First the Jeogoris were transformed during the excavation, Second fibers were seriously deteriorated, Third most of the fabrics such as Chusa were readily deformed. To overcome these problems and to secure stability in the conservation treatment, we decided to alternate between two different washing methods ; dry cleaning by n-hexane and wet cleaning by water. The costume shape was recovered by steaming and by swelling with Hanji(Korean traditional paper). The combined cleaning method proved to be relatively efficient and stable. In addition, the shape of Chusa was well preserved by dry cleaning.(using n-hexane also solved the problem of bad smell after washing with organic solvents.) The effects of the conservation treatment on the excavated costumes could be seen in the change of Lab color difference. Washing made the distribution of Lab color difference narrower, which may suggest that the impurities on the fiber was removed by washing. In addition, the value of L was greater than a-value and b-value after the treatment. This result indicates that the change of value represents the change of color difference by cleaning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.87-101
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.42-52
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• 2015

This study considers the expressive types of 'Glocalism' trends and its inherent aesthetic characteristics through the analysis of flight attendants' uniform design. The following is the conclusions regarding the glocalism trend according to the analysis of airline uniform design that reflect it. First, the design approach was developed appropriating the whole or parts of traditional attire and applying decorative items in terms of a formal aspect. Secondly, the colors of the airline's homeland symbols or natural environment were used while, thirdly, the fabrics represent glocalism by employing folk elements of the region and patterns of nature for a uniform design. Induced from these design analyses, the aesthetic characteristics of airline uniforms reflecting glocalism are traditionality, naturality, and compromisability. To begin with, traditionality is what is realized in interpreting the historical aesthetics in a contemporary perspective, contributing in inspiring the historical value of the homeland and contributing to the establishment of identity by applying forms and colors of traditional garments with folk patterns on a uniform design. In addition, naturality means the reorganization of unprocessed pure nature, expressing the image of nature through colors taken from the natural environment or motifs of the regional plants. Finally, combining general sensibilities with diverse cultural features, compromisability is realized as a modern design which combines a standardized uniform with the aesthetic components of the local environment and traditional garments.