• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.671-678
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• 2007

Formulations of compact and supercompact heavy-duty detergents, which are being used widely around the world, differ from those of conventional heavy-duty detergents. Significant differences in composition exist between the compact detergents and the conventional detergents. The compact detergents have a higher content of surfactants, oxygen bleach and enzymes than the conventional detergents. We have studied to find the most effective washing conditions of artificially soiled cloths with a commercial, supercompact, heavy-duty detergent and a drum type washing machine which is becoming the preferred type in Korea. Moreover, we have studied the washing performance with an impeller type washing machine, which has heretofore been the most popular type in East Asia. With the drum-type washing machine, washing performances improved as the washing temperatures went up and the washing times were lengthened. Though the rate of soil removal with a double recommended dosage was higher than with the recommended amount at $20^{\circ}C$, the effects of the higher dosage decreased as the washing temperatures increased. Finally, the washing performances with the two different dosages were the same at $60^{\circ}C$. The washing performances at $40^{\circ}C$ with the recommended dosage for 90 minutes were the same as with the double recommended dosage for 45 minutes. The soil removal efficiencies with the impeller-type washing machine were much lower than those of the drum-type washing machine. The reasons for this were the higher bath ratio that led to the lower concentration of wash liquor, the shorter washing time, and the lower washing temperature.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.629-634
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• 2012

Knitted fabric using acrylic/wool blended yarn (A/W) is increasingly used in the knit industry; subsequently, research on knitted fabric using A/W has increased. This study presents an scientific database from evaluating physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W. In this study,$1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were made at various knitting tensions (dial no. 2-6) and the number (4-6) of ply yarn. The physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were measured and analyzed. The density was in the range 5.5-6.4 wales/cm and 4.0-5.6 courses/cm, respectively. The density increased when less plying yarns and more knitting tension were added during knitting. The thickness was in the range of 1.592-2.362 mm and the tensile strength was in the range 32.75-53.63 Kgf/mm. The burst strength was in the range 107.8-139.2 $N/cm^2$. Thickness, tensile strength, and burst strength increased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The elongation and the recovery extension rate were in the range 102.29-112.13% and 96.4-97.7%, respectively. The heat retention rate was in the range 59.3-65.1%. There was no difference of the elongation and the recovery extension rate and the heat retention rate by the knitting tension and the number of the ply yarn. The permeability was in the range 170.5-396.3 $cm^3/cm^2/sec$. Air permeability decreased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The pilling properties were excellent for all $1{\times}1$ rib stitches.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.759-767
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• 2017

This study investigates the improvement of domestic compression stockings by comparing and analyzing the characteristics of materials and fabrics of medical compression stockings developed in Korea and domestic imported compression stockings. Among imported compression stockings currently available in Korea, three brands with high sales rates are selected by countries (USA, Italy, and Germany) to measure the physical and mechanical properties of the material. Medical compression stockings to be analyzed were selected as M size pantyhose included in 20-30mmHg. As a result, the tensile elongation of medical compression stockings selected in this study was the highest in Korean products in the ankle, while the highest in the US was in the thigh, and the elasticity of Italian products was low. The recovery rate of the kidneys was similar for all four ankles. The ankle weight was the highest except for Korean products that showed the highest weight of the thigh and difference from products of other countries. US product also showed high shape stability due to high recovery of tensile strength from high value RT. Italian products showed low banding and shear values; however, shape stability was poor with good drapeability. In Germany, LT and RT values were low, but clothing comfort was considered excellent. In Korea, LT and RT values, banding and shear characteristics were high, and drapeability was poor. Stiffness was good, but recoverability was excellent.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.14-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.705-714
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• 2010

This study has the purpose of classifying the types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in relevant monthly magazines and analyzing the characteristics of the techniques. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are classified into single and composite types according to decorative components. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, gold and silver foils and embroideries, embroideries and seonchigi or embroideries and stitches is usually used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. More notably, Korean traditional costumes for women shown in monthly magazines released during the period as mentioned above were investigated to find that a part of the women's clothes, that is, skirt was in most cases decorated with brilliant embroideries. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have brilliant patterns on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Consequently, since 2010, flower motive patterns which are important in modern fashion trend will be used in embroideries, gold and silver foils. Additionally, embroideries such as seakdong, applique, drawing made with modern style will be the main stream of new HanBok style.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.20-27
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• 2006

Lyocell is a not only environmentally-friendly but also very advantageous fiber. When Lyocell is soaked in water, its wet tenacity does not decrease and elongation and moisture regain of it are better than cotton. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation. The fibrills of lyocell were generated during wet process such as scouring and dyeing deteriorates the dyeing color depth and the appearance of fabric. The purpose of this study was to decrease the fibrillation tendency of lyocell fabric using crosslinking agent, epichlorohydrine(ECH). The effects of NaOH scouring and ECH crosslinking were observed. The different types of ECH addition methods to lyocell and the various concentrations of ECH in crosslinking reaction onto dyeing characteristic and fibriallation were investigated. Weight loss and whiteness index of crosslinked lyocell by ECH were examined. K/S values of ECH treated lyocell fabrics dyed with reactive dye were measured and SEM images of untreated and treated lyocells were observed extensively to define the fibrillation tendency. The results were as follows ; 1) ECH treatment showed the effect of weight loss and scouring because ECH crosslinking reaction was conducted in alkaline condition. 2) The increase in ECH concentration from 5 to 30% does not affected K/S value changes. 3) ECH crosslinking can effectively prevent the fibrillation tendency of lyocell.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.263-268
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• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제44차 학술발표회
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• pp.84-84
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• 2011

국내 섬유산업은 해외로부터의 저가 섬유제품이 대량으로 유입되는 속에서도 산업전반에 꾸준히 고부가 가치화를 지향하고 있다. 소비자의 요구에 부응하여 섬유소재에도 다양한 신개념과 이를 충족시킬 수 있는 기술이 요구되고 있으며, 그 가운데 하나의 영역을 구축해 나가고 있는 분야가 면 리플가공과 같은 표면 형태 가공이며, 최근 들어 폴리에스테르 입체(3D)가공제의 개발 및 가공 방법도 이런 흐름에 부응하여 업계에서 절실한 개발을 요구하고 있는 분야 중 하나이다. 현재 까지 폴리에스테르 섬유의 입체가공 기술은 엠보싱무늬를 조각한 금속 롤러에 열을 가하여 폴리에스터 직물에 찍는 방법으로 원단 표면의 입체적인 무늬를 만들어 내는 방법이 대부분이다. 최근 면 리플가공과 같은 표면 형태 가공이 섬유소재의 새로운 트랜드로 나타나면서 폴리에스테르와 같은 합성섬유에서도 이러한 소재의 질감을 얻고자 많은 시도가 이루어지고 있다. 본 연구에서는 5종의 폴리에스테르의 입체가공용 바인더를 포뮬레이션하여 현재 시장성이 있는 폴리에스테르 아이템 5종에 대한 입체가공효과 및 적용성을 고찰하였다. 합성 포뮬레이션 된 바인더는 수용성으로 만들어졌으며, 입체가공 전 후의 원단 외관, 처리 후 수세의 용이성 및 무늬의 입체성효과 등을 확인하였으며, 가공 전후의 원단 물성평가 연구도 동시 진행하였다. 폴리에스테르 섬유의 새로운 패션 소재로의 응용에 초점을 두고 시장의 수요가 폭발되고 있는 폴리에스테르 섬유 및 나일론 등 합성섬유의 3차원 입체 가공(디보싱) 제품을 생산할 수 있는 가공제 및 가공방법의 개발은 신규시장 창출에 큰 기여를 할 수 있을 것으로 판단되며, 다양한 날염업체의 수요를 충족시키고, 섬유산업의 글로벌화에 대응하여 훈련된 영업 인력과 E-commerce를 통한 외산 제품과의 경쟁력 확보로 신규시장 진입기회를 창출할 것으로 기대한다.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제44차 학술발표회
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• pp.59-59
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• 2011

현재 우리들 사회의 환경과 생활이 윤택해 짐에 따라 문화생활을 영위하게 되고, 건강에 대한 의식이 커져가고 있다. 이에 건강을 유지하고 증진시킬 수 있는 환경 친화적인 제품에 대한 관심 또한 높아지고 있다. 특히 기존의 합성염료보다 천연염료로 염색한 제품은 고부가가치를 창출하며 환경친화적이고 인체친화적이다. 이를 바탕으로 Cleaner제품에 천연염색을 하고 천연항균제를 처리하여 제품의 세탁 후 항균지속성에 관하여 검토하였다. 본 연구에서는 대나무섬유와 N/P극세사 혼방소재에 꼭두서니와 치자로 염색한 뒤, 욕비 1:30으로 고정하고, 5%천연항균제 용액을 제조하였다. 제조된 용액에 시료를 5분간 침지 후, Pick-up율 70%로 조정하였다. 그리고 $80^{\circ}C$에서 20분간 건조 후, $110^{\circ}C$에서 1분간 열처리 하였다. KS K IOS 105-C06의 방법으로 30회 세탁하였다. KS K 0693과 AATCC 100의 시험방법으로 Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538(황색포도상구균)과 Klebsiella pneumoniae ATTC 4352(폐렴구균)의 균주에 대한 항균성을 측정하였다. KS K 0693의 경우 Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538(황색포도상구균)와 Klebsiella pneumoniae ATTC 4352(폐렴구균)에서 모두 99.9%의 정균감소률을 나타내었고, 또한 AATCC 100에서도 Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538(황색포도상구균)과 Klebsiella pneumoniae ATTC 4352(폐렴구균)에서도 모두 99.9%의 정균감소률을 나타냈다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.93-103
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• 2010

The results of comparison and analysis of dynamical features according to Jacquard structure are as follows. Regarding elongation(E) value in tensile property, the value in the direction of course was found to be larger in all Jacquard structure, except floating Jacquard, than the direction of wale. It could be found that, as to bending strength(B) in Bending Property, the value of bending strength in the direction of course smaller in all the textile(structure) except floating than the direction of wale, so that the ability of curve formation is excellent. And in case of floating Jacquard, it showed the smallest value in the direction of course and wale, so that it was interpreted as Jacquard having a soft feel. Blister Jacquard showed the highest value in both directions of course and wale, so that it was evaluated as Jacquard having the hardest touch. With regard to shearing character(G) and shearing hysteresis(2HG) in Shearing Property, Jacquard indicated the lowest value, so it was evaluated as the textile(structure) having high drape the transformation of whose fabric is easy. In addition, normal Jacquard, transfer Jacquard, blister Jacquard showed a high value, so that it could be known they are Jacquards having stiff touch. The study implies that normal Jacquard, bird's eye Jacquard, etc., which well stretch in the direction of a course like tubular Jacquard course, is better to make the margin a little shorter than the basic margin, and Jacquard that well stretches in the direction of wale like ladder's back Jacquard and floating Jacquard is better to make the margin longer and the length shorter than the basic margin.