• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.35-49
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• 2015

This paper investigated optimum process conditions of coating yarn for awning fabric. For this purpose, the simulation for processability and yarn quality using SPSS statistics package was carried out, and PP/TPO and PET/PVC coating yarns specimens were made with variation of extruder temperature and feed speed of core yarn on the yarn coating machine for examining simulation result. It was revealed that optimum coating conditions of PP/TPO 1000d coating yarn were extruder temperature $150^{\circ}C$, and core yarn feed speed 400~500m/min. Mechanical property and thermal shrinkage of PP/TPO coating yarn made at this conditions were best and core evenness rates of these coating yarns by yarn compression tester were also superior, which was certified by SEM photograph. In addition, these experimental results were coincided with simulation results. It was found that, in PET/PVC coating yarn, yarn physical properties between 1500d and 1200d coated yarns were not shown any difference, and core evenness rates of these coating yarns were superior. It revealed and concluded that these simulated coating conditions are applicable to production field.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-57
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• 1984

Effect on the hand value and mechanical properties of blend ratio and weight had been investigated Oil summer suits for men. Relation between the mechanical properties and the deformation in behavior was also studied. The mechanical properties which influence the hand values and total hand value had been discussed and the relation between mechanical properties, hand values and fabric count had, too. As result, the following conclusions had been obtained. 1) The values of tensile properties increased with the increase of blend ratio of wool. The values of surface properties increased according to the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 2HB(bending properties) of polyester/wool blend showed higher value than that of $100\%$ wool, but there was no change in the shearing properties according to the blend ratio. The values of stiffness, crispness and anti-drape stiffness of blend fabric showed higher values than those of $100\%$ wool fabric. The value of fullness (including softness) of blend fabric showed lower value than that of $100\%$ wool fabric. 2) The correlation between hand values and mechanical properties showed following order. in stiffness : bending properties>surface properties in crispness: surface properties>bending properties in anti-drape stiffness: bending properties>surface properties>shearing properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.1 s.92
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• pp.53-60
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• 2007

In order to optimize the process for development of super deep black fiber, the silica-containing polyester fabric, SN2000, was investigated in terms of mass reduction process by sodium hydroxide, selection of high color strength dyes, and resin treatment. As the results, the mass reduction condition which used 15g/L of sodium hydroxide at $120^{\circ}C$ was determined and Dianix Deep Black Plus was selected for the best deep coloration at around 5% owf. Contrary to the prevailed understanding that the additional use of chromatic dyes would enhance the deep coloration, four kinds of chromatic dyes such as yellow, red, blue, and green dyes did not make great effect on the deep coloration. To increase the effect, the commercial resin that has low refractive index was used additionally and the resin made it possible to lower the lightness of the fabrics down to 8.7 which was generally accepted for super highly deep black fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.253-262
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was improvement of the pants fit for obese women. The results were as follows; 5 obese women in their 20s and 30s were selected for the testing 3D body. They showed no significant differences in all items, comparing with the data of 5th Size Korea body dimensions. The average waist circumstance of the subjects' 3D body dimensions was 87.0 cm and hip circumstance was 102.4 cm, and their obese body types had similar mean values. Based on the survey results and the 3D body dimensions of 5th Size Korea body dimensions, a pants pattern to supplement their body type and improve a fit was designed with waist circumference(88 cm), hip circumference(103 cm), crotch length(27.1 cm), thigh circumference(62 cm), pants length(97 cm), pants hem line circumference(44 cm). Based on the detailed design of ready made pants and the study results of young obese women's preference for pants design, pants of straight silhouette and semi-tight fit which have waist line lowered by 3.5 cm from the waist circumference line, 3.5 cm belt width, no front dart and one back dart, were manufactured with 100% black cotton and cotton spandex mixed fabrics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.51-51
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• 2011

PLA(Poly(lactic acid))는 옥수수, 사탕수수와 같은 천연재료에서 얻어진 젖산(lactic acid or lactide)을 원료로 하여 합성한 생분해성 고분자로서 석유자원의 고갈과 환경오염에 대한 관심이 고조됨에 따라 합성고분자를 대체할 재료로 각광받고 있다. 일반적인 PLA의 장점으로 투명성, 굽힘강성, 방수성, 가열밀봉성 등이 있으며, 단점으로는 열안정성, 내구성, 충격 강도 등이 있다. PLA를 섬유로 사용될 경우 농림 토목용 생분해성 소재 뿐 아니라 실크의 광택과 뛰어난 드레이프성, 감촉을 갖는 장점이 있다. 또한 수분을 신속하게 흡수하여 발산시키는 특성을 가지고 있고, 낮은 연소열과 가스량, 자기 소화성 등의 방염 특성 등을 지녀 의류 인테리어 소재로 매력적인 특성을 가지고 있다. PLA는 바이오고분자 중 비교적 높은 용융온도를 가지고 있지만 특히 염색 및 가공조건 등 고온 처리에 의해 기계적 강도가 저하되는 단점이 있어 내열성 및 기계적 강도의 향상이 필수적이다. 내열성 및 기계적 강도 향상을 위한 가장 손쉬운 방법은 고분자 사슬을 가교시키는 것으로서 열처리 또는 감마선, 전자선, 자외선 조사를 이용할 수 있는데 열에 의한 가교는 균일한 열전달과 고온이 필요하며 감마선 및 전자선 조사는 설비의 고비용과 방사성 노출 위험으로 인해 비친환경적이다. 따라서 다루기 쉽고 비용이 적게 들고 친환경적인 장점을 가진 자외선 조사법을 이용한 PLA의 광가교의 연구가 필요하다. 본 연구의 목적은 PLA 직물의 열안정성과 기계적 특성을 향상시키기 위해 광개시제와 자외선 조사를 이용하여 PLA 직물의 광가교를 수행하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.50-50
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• 2011

발수가공은 섬유표면에 낮은 표면에너지 물질을 도포하여 섬유제품에 적심 저항성을 부여하는 것으로 일반적인 방법으로는 불소계 고분자 물질을 포함한 가공제액을 부여하고 열에너지원을 사용하여 섬유 표면에 경화하여 고착시키고 처리온도는 $150{\sim}170^{\circ}C$의 범위에서 수 분 처리하지만 처리시간을 증가하면 섬유에 황변을 일으킬 수 있고 직물의 한 면에만 발수성을 구현하기가 어렵다. 피부와 접촉하는 부위에서의 불필요한 발수성은 땀 흡수저하, 알러지 발생 우려 등 쾌적성 저하 요인이 될수 있어 스포츠, 레저 의류 분야에서는 섬유제품의 일면만을 발수처리 하는 가공이 필요되어진다. 편면 발수가공을 위한 선행기술로는 상하 중 하나의 롤러에만 발수제를 묻혀 섬유제품의 일면에만 발수가공을 하는 것과 분사기로 발수제를 섬유제품의 일면에 도포하는 것 등이 있다. 하지만 일면에 처리된 발수제가 반대면으로 침투하거나 균일한 발수처리가 되지 않는 등의 문제점이 있고 발수제의 농도증가 및 증점제를 사용하여 점도를 증가시켜야하기 때문에 발수처리의 균일성 및 내구성 있는 편면발수공정이 어려운 단점이 있다. 본 연구에서는 UV경화가 가능한 불소계 발수제와 물에 용해되는 광개시제가 첨가된 수용액을 PET직물에 패딩하고 UV로 경화하여 양면 모두 발수성을 부여한 후 UV조사로 표면개질하여 표면친수성을 증가시켜 양 면의 발수성을 조절하였다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.211-221
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• 2012

The word 'chintz' is thought to be a corruption of spotted cloth. Printing remained a relatively primitive method of decorating textiles in Europe until the second half of the 17th century. The formation of the English East India Company sparked the influx into the West of painted and printed Indian cotton textiles. A William Sherwin took out the first English patent in 1676. The earlist European designs were florals in the Indian manner. Patterns of European flowers returned to England as birds, flowers, trees, vines and stained glass for Victorian chintz. In France, the original and most successsful manufacturer of the distinctive printed fabrics from Jouy was Christophe Philippe Oberkampf. Copperplate printing was introduced to Jouy in 1770, probably reaching the pinnacle of achievement in the craft after 1783 when Jean-Baptiste Huet became chief designer. Huet's style was widely imitated in France and abroad, and the term 'toile de Jouy' has come to be universally applied to monochrome figurative designs wherever and by whomsoever they were produced. Oberkampf served his apprenticeship as an engraver with some leading manufacturers, including a period in Mulhouse. In Alsace, which was not part of France until 1798, the first factory had opened in 1746 in Mulhouse, and the area soon had the largest number of print-works in France.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.203-210
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• 2012

This study, focusing on the costumes of Kouge in the era of Kamakura and the end of Heian in Japan, aims to explore the aspects and characteristics of the costumes that were developed under political, economical, and social circumstances. The findings are the following. Male costumes include Sokdae, Pogo, Euigwan, Jikeui, Sueui, and Sugan, while female costumes include Shipidan, Sogyu, Sejang, and Hansam. Different clothes of Kuge were chosen depending on the types and purposes of the occasions: full dress and Yahkjang, a semi-dress, for a ceremonial purpose, street costume for a personal visit purpose, outdoor clothing for hunting and outdoor activities, Cheongjangsok, and Sukjikjangsok. In these various types of clothes we can assume the elegant life of aristocratic class of Kouge. In addition, different fabrics, patterns, and dresses were chosen depending on the grade of ranks of Kouge, so that Kouge can differentiate their ranks, keep the order of the ranks, and enhance their authority by themselves. With the advent in the era of Kamakura, the power of Kouge was weakened and their clothes underwent changes, some types of clothes were omitted or simplified or the clothes of subordinates were worn. In addition, when new forces appeared and new clothes came about, there were changes in the purpose and the wearer of the clothes: from ordinary clothes to official clothes, from the clothes of lower class to the clothes of higher class, and from Sukjikjangsok to Cheongjangsok.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.635-641
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• 2013

This study examined the dye-properties of natural fabrics dyed with Coptis chinensis and Curcuma longa root fermented with fungi. The optimum culture conditions for the fermentation of microorganisms, the relationship between natural dye color and fermentation conditions were investigated. Two different medical herbs (ground to 80-100 mesh in size) were used as a natural dyeing source. Phellinus linteus (P. linteus), which can grow in different media, such as Agarmedium (only agar containing medium), maltose extract agar (MA) and potato dextrose extract agar (PDA) culture media, were isolated from the medium. P. linteus was confirmed to be the optimum microorganism for the fermentation of Coptis chinensis and Curcuma longa, and the MA medium was confirmed to be the best for culturing. When using the microorganism as the fermenting agent, $32^{\circ}C$ was found to be the optimum fermenting temperature for both natural colorants. Regarding the dyeing property of the fermented natural dye, silk was dyed quite darkly in an appearance by naked eye estimation and the K/S value in the color strength of silk reached a high level of 16 after the fermenting process. The washing fastness of dyed silk after treatment washing was reduced from 4 to under4 and indicates that dyed silk with fermented plant was not unsubstantial. The light fastness was 1 to 2, showing intended to maintain due to the fermentation process.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.68-68
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• 2012

고사리는 다년생 양치식물로 예부터 선조들이 즐겨먹던 산채의 일종이다. 고사리에 비타민$B_1,B_2$, C뿐만 아니라 아스파라긴과 글루타민과 같은 성분도 포함된 것으로 밝혀지면서 최근 그 활용가치가 높아지고 있다. 고사리의 재배는 1996년부터 꾸준히 증가하여 현재 1252.8ha(2010년기준)에 이르고 있다. 고사리의 채취는 4월중순 ~ 5월초순에 이르며 어린 순만을 채취하여 식용으로 사용하고 채취시기 후 재배고사리 성채의 줄기와 잎은 50~100cm의 높이로 자라게 내버려두었다가 가을이 되면 저온이나 서리로 인해 갈변하여 일년생을 마치고 있는 실정이다. 이에 본 연구는 재배고사리 채취시기 이후 7,8,9월에 재배고사리 부산물인 줄기와 잎을 채취하여 염액을 추출하고 KS K 0905 표준면직물을 활용하여 농도변이 100%, 200%, 300%, 400%, 500%별로 면직물의 염색성을 살펴보았으며 염색된 직물의 $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$값과 먼셀값, K/S값을 분광광도계를 사용하여 측정하였다. 또한 재배고사리 부산물 색소의 특성을 알아보기 위해 추출액을 혼합하여 동결건조하고 분말화한 다음 TLC분석에 의해 그 성분을 확인하였다.