• 대한가정학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.27-38
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• 1985

In KOREA, the history of weaving is so long even in prinitive, there are the traces of fabric emmision using Spindle already in the Neolithic age. And coming up to the period of Three States, becoming active of cultivation of fibers, it can be known the variety of kinds and the production of fine products by improvement of new method of weaving using weaving machine. In the period of shilla state, there is a record of making the fine fabrics with 28 bracts. But wearing of silks fabrics was limitted for only the nobility and common people were wearing native thick hemp clothes. Also in the period of Korea state, they were wearing the hemp clothes by cultivation of hemp. The good quality products were worn by the King or the nobility and women in KOREA made their best with whole efforts to pay to the authorities with woven products of hemp clothes, so in the 14th year of King Chung- Ryul, King prohibited the presentation of fine hemp clothes by his order. By the end of KOREA state, before the production, common people was mainly wearing the hemp clothes. Coming up to the Kingdom of Chosun the sericulture was promoted by establishment of the sericulture encouraging low. Therefore the working hours of women were highly increased. The products of Song-do, Chin-ju for cotton clothes, those of Han-san-the same now as in old times-for ramie clothes, those of Han-Kyung province and An-dong for hemp fabrics were estimated as the best qualities. And the hemp clothes of Kang-won province is not so fine but is very useful and famous for mourning clothes and summer clothes for the farmer. It is true that our history of weaving was begun with hemp as a continous and precious friend of common people during all the historical periods-even though for a while it went backward because of chinese silks.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권3호
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• pp.503-515
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• 2018

In this research, the three-dimensional structural and colorimetrical modeling of yarn-dyed woven fabrics was conducted based on the Kubelka-Munk theory (K-M theory) for their accurate color predictions. In the K-M theory for textile color formulation, the absorption and scattering coefficients, denoted K and S, respectively, of a colored fabric are represented using those of the individual colorants or color components used. One-hundred forty woven fabric samples were produced in a wide range of structures and colors using red, yellow, green, and blue yarns. Through the optimization of previous two-dimensional color prediction models by considering the key three-dimensional structural parameters of woven fabrics, three three-dimensional K/S-based color prediction models, that is, linear K/S, linear log K/S, and exponential K/S models, were developed. To evaluate the performance of the three-dimensional color prediction models, the color differences, ${\Delta}L^*$, ${\Delta}C^*$, ${\Delta}h^{\circ}$, and ${\Delta}E_{CMC(2:1)}$, between the predicted and the measured colors of the samples were calculated as error values and then compared with those of previous two-dimensional models. As a result, three-dimensional models have proved to be of substantially higher predictive accuracy than two-dimensional models in all lightness, chroma, and hue predictions with much lower ${\Delta}L^*$, ${\Delta}C^*$, ${\Delta}h^{\circ}$, and the resultant ${\Delta}E_{CMC(2:1)}$ values.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.8-19
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• 2023

Silicone rubber is widely used in most industries due to diverse advantages like heat stability, UV stability, durability, chemical resistance, environment friendliness, inertness and so on. But there is limitation to expand applications due to relatively weak rubber strengths such as tensile strength and tear strength, especially in fabric coating applications. The purpose of this study is to find influence of coating agent on performances of rubber and coated fabrics and their correlation according to different crosslinking densities of silicone rubbers. Addition cure type of silicones were formulated using crosslinked MQ-type silicone resin consisting of M (R₃SiO_1/2) and Q (SiO_4/2) and linear polymers. Raw materials used were; 1) linear vinyl endblocked polymers and vinyl functional MQ resin as main polymers, 2) linear silicone hydride polymers as crosslinkers, 3) platinum catalyst and 4) inhibitor to control curing speed. Rubber specimens were prepared to check mechanical strength using universal testing machine (UTM). Crosslinking density was calculated using Flory-Rhener equation using solvent swelling method. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and scanning electron microscope (SEM-EDS) were used to characterize rubbers. Consequently, it was found that physical properties of silicone rubbers and coated fabrics can be expected by crosslinking density of rubbers. Silicone rubber formulations that contain 20 ~ 30 wt% of vinyl MQ resin showed strongest balanced performances.

• 복식
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• 제64권2호
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.352-357
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• 2006

The cotton fabrics were pretreated by sodium 2-(2,3-dibromopropionylamino)-5-(4,6-dichloro-1,3,5-triazinylamino) benzenesulfonate (DBDCBS) at alkaline condition ofroom temperature and then dyed with four disperse dyes having amino groups (C.I. Disperse Yellow 9, C.I. Disperse Red 11, C.I. Disperse Blue 56 and C.I. Disperse Violet 1) at acidic condition of high temperature. A novel hetero-bifunctional bridge compound, DBDCBS, has two reactive groups such as dichloro-striazinyl group and ${\alpha},\;{\beta}$-dibromopropionylamido group. The first has reactivity towards hydroxy group of cellulosic fiber and the second shows reactivity towards amino groups of disperse dye containing amino groups. The results indicate that it is possible to dye polyester/cotton blend at one-bath dyeing using one kind of disperse dye containing amino groups. Therefore, two kinds of dyeing methods such as two-bath process one-bath dyeing and one-bath process one-bath dyeing were investigated and their dyeabilities were compared. The differences between these two methods were negligibly small so that perfect one-bath one-step dyeing of polyester/cotton blend by one kind of disperse dye was achieved.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.271-286
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• 2020

This study evaluated designs via the consumers' function and design preferences survey for using product design images, virtual avatar wearing images and product explanations that identified consumers' function and design preferences for knee protection pads as well as to develop movement assistive knee pad designs. We developed Design A for men and Design B for women. For Design A, the front of the knee supports muscles and alleviates pain with a hole. Mesh material with good ventilation was applied to enhance wearing comfort. The color was achromatic for a modern style, and the hook fastener and loops enabled easy wear and removal of the pad while controlling size and pressure strength. For Design B, taping details seamlessly support muscles in the knee area with fabrics less than 0.1 cm thick and with long sleeves in the diverse sizes. The design's satisfaction assessment showed that potential consumers were satisfied with Design A and Design B for overall design and functional features. Over 77% wanted to use/wear and purchase designs; in addition, over 78% expected it would help with walking and relieve knee pain. The results can be helpful for designers when deciding designs for manufacturing and commercializing kneepad products.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.608-615
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability and functional properties of dyed fabric with the extract of Myrica rubra rind. For this purpose, the ultraviolet and visible spectra of the bark extracts were investigated. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, mordant type, mordanting order, mordant concentration and dyeability were investigated. The color fastness based on washing, dry-cleaning, rubbing and light were evaluated by the types of Myrica rubra rind extract used. In addition, the deodorization and antibacterial activity were measured, and the functionality of the silk fabric dyed with the extract of the Myrica rubra rind was evaluated. The result shows that the color strength of the dye was excellent when the Myrica rubra rind was dyed at $80^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. The mordant dye color strength was high in the order of Fe mordant> Cu mordant> Al mordant. The dyeability of Al and Cu mordant was high during pre-mordanting compared to Fe mordant, and the dyeability of Fe mordant was high during post-mordanting than Cu and Al mordant. The deodorant property of the dyed fabric stained with the Myrica rubra rind extract was 92.4% and that of antibacterial property was 99.9% for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae bacteria respectively.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.96-102
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• 2007

Antibacterial finishing of nylon 66 fabrics was carried out with sericite and medilite which are a cheap price antibacterial agents and had excellent antibacterial effects. The particle size of sericite and medilite was 15 ${\mu}m$ and 30 ${\mu}m$. The antibacterial and deodorant ratio, tensile and tear strength, peel strength were examined to investigate the change of physical properties and antibacterial effect. The results are as follows. 1. Peel strength is increased with increasing adhesive content, and satisfied standard value of peel strength when adhesive content is 20 $g/m^2$. Also peel strength was decreased with increasing antibacterial agent content and particle size in the adhesives. 2. Tensile and tear strength were not related with antibacterial agent content in the adhesives. 3. Laundering nylon 66 fabric treated with antibacterial agent, the optimum content satisfying Korean Standard(KS) is 8%. The antibacterial and deodorant ratio were not affected by several types of adhesives.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.708-716
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• 2019

This study explored Jeju natural resources with healing function and tried mixed dyeing of Ecklonia cava and onion shell to improve dyeing. The results showed that silk dyed with a mixture of Ecklonia cava powder and onion shells rather than Jeju's individually dyed silk had better color power to develop fashion products. In addition, all friction lightning bolts, dry cleaning and sweat mining levels were excellent as well as excellent UV protection rates. The three baenaet jeogori worn during a birth anniversary and four rest suits that infants and children can wear comfortably maintained the dyeing and functioning of Ecklonia cava and onion shell mixture that was proven through abnormal experiments. For the three baenaet jeogori and two rest suits, the company has developed a fashion product recognized for high value-added merchandise using a variegation dyeing method made in a handmade style for expressing a person's natural sensibility through dyeing fabrics. Based on the results of the above research, it is expected that various fashion product developments will be possible by dyeing a mixture of functional and colorful extracts of the drug and colorful dye.