• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.17-24
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• 2015

This study investigated heat generation characteristics of knitted and woven intelligent garments made of ZrC imbedded yarns through thermal manikin measurement. These emotional and intelligent thermal characteristics by thermal manikin measurement were analysed and compared with light/thermal radiation experimental results. Surface temperature of ZrC imbedded woven and knitted fabrics by light/thermal radiation measurement was $4^{\circ}C$ and $2^{\circ}C$ higher than that of regular PET control fabrics, respectively. Clo value as heat generation characteristics of ZrC imbedded woven and knitted garments with light exposure was 0.14 and 0.08 higher than that of regular PET control garments, respectively. These results were attributed to the far-infrared thermal radiation from ZrC imbedded in the core part of the intelligent bi-component filament, which was verified by far-infrared emissive power ranged between $6{\mu}m$ and $20{\mu}m$ through FT-IR experiment and by inclusion of Zr through EDS ingredient analysis. However, compressibility of ZrC imbedded woven fabric was lower than that of regular PET one, and bending rigidity was higher than that of regular one, which resulted in a little stiff tactile hand property of ZrC imbedded fabric. We found that ZrC imbedded intelligent woven and knitted fabrics were applicable to the intelligent garment as a heat generation textile material by thermal manikin measurement.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.2292-2299
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• 2010

The wear and abrasion mechanism of conventional PET/Cotton fabric which is used as a lining layer for thermotherapy massager was elaborately investigated in order to increase the life-span of the fabrics for Thermotherapy Massager. Based on the destruction mechanism, the feasible PET fabrics were prepared and its anti-wearing performance was evaluated. It is revealed that the wearing destruction is mainly caused by the repeat abrasion on a specific part of folded fabric as well as abrasion itself. Therefore, it is necessary that the prevention of fabric folding while massager is running is essential and the recovery from the crease on a fabric is also necessary to solve this problem. Covered elastic yarn, high twisted yarn, change of fabric structure or different fiber were utilized to prepare the possible alternatives. As a result, the anti-wearing performance of the fabrics are greatly improved to have about 2 times and 1.5 times longer life-span for the fabric with covered elastic yarn and high twisted yarn, respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.416-422
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• 2003

Agricultural drainage salt generated during irrigation of crops in San Joaquin Valley, California, exceeds 600,000 tons annually and cumulates in the field in a rapid rate. As a result, the waste is taking out more farmlands for salt storage and disposal, imposing serious concerns to environment and local agricultural industry. In searching for a potential solution to reduce or eliminate the waste, this research explored feasibility of producing a value-added product, sodium sulfate, from the waste and utilizing the product in textile dyeing. The results indicated that sodium sulfate could be produced from the salt and could be purified by a recrystalization method in a temperature range within the highest and lowest daily temperatures in summer in the valley. The recovered sodium sulfate samples, with purities ranging from 67% to 99.91, were compared with commercially available sodium sulfate in the dyeing of levelling dyes with nylon/wool fabrics. In nylon/wool fabrics, C.I. Acid Yellow 23 had similar exhaustions among Na₂SO₄ I, Na₂SO₄ II, Na₂SO₄ III and Na₂SO₄ Ⅴ which had similar ratios of sodium sulfate and sodium chloride in recovered salts. Na₂SO₄ Ⅳ had low exhaustion which had low ratios of sodium sulfate and sodium chloride. In nylon/wool fabrics, C.I. Acid Blue 158 had similar exhaustions among Na₂SO₄ I, Na₂SO₄ II, Na2₂SO₄ III, Na₂SO₄ IV and Na₂SO₄ Ⅴ despite of Na₂SO₄ Ⅳ had low ratios of sodium sulfate and sodium chloride Generally, the dyeing of levelling dyes using recovered salts from farm drainage has similar or low exhaustion than the dyeing of levelling dyes using commercial sodium sulfate.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.22-30
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• 1995

The effects of agents in padding liquor on the fixation of vinylsulfonyl reactive dye of ground color and on the resist-dischargeability in resist-discharge printing of cotton fabrics with reactive/reactive dyes were investigated. Alkalis, such as sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, sodium acetate and trichloro sodium acetate, were used to fix the dye for ground color on cotton fabrics. Sodium bicarbonate and sodium carbonate showed a good fixation of the dye for ground color, but they were ineffective to the white and the colored resistdsichargeabilities, which were caused by the fast fixation of the dye for ground color before its reaction with resist agent in printing paste. Therefore these are not suitable for the agent to fix the dyes for ground color because they deteriorate the resist-dischargeability. In case of sodium acetate, as the fixation yield of the dye for ground color was remarkably low. and the white resistdischargeability was not good, it had better not be used for the agent to fix the dye for ground color. However, the addition of sodium trichloroacetate to padding liquor gave a very good fixation yield of ground color, and showed an excellent resist-dischargeability. The effects of acetic acid in padding liquor on the fixation of the dye for ground color and on the resist-dischargeability were studied in case of immediate printing of resist-discharge pastes after padding and drying and in cases of printing after 1∼3 day-storage of padded goods. By the addition of 2% of 48% acetic acid aqueous solution to padding liquor, the white and the colored resist-dischargeabilities were improved and the fixation of the dye for ground color was good without any troubles. Especially, when the padded goods were stored for 2 or 3 days and printed with resist-discharge printing pastes, its addition was very effective on the resist-dischargeability.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.194-206
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• 2010

This study was carried out to identify the optimum dyeing conditions for maximum dye uptake of Prunus yedoensis Matsumura flower extract on silk fabric and to investigate hue/tone characteristics and fastness properties of the dyed fabrics. As results, the flower extract was found to contain flavonoids by FT-IR and to show yellowish shade by UV-vis spectrum. Silk fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake to five repetitions of dyeing at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with an extract concentration of 600% owf in terms of both K/S and color differences. Pre-mordanting was more effective to dye uptake than post-mordanting for all of the mordants used. Un-mordanted and pre-mordanted fabric showed YR(Yellow Red) while most of post-mordanted ones did Y(Yellow). Main tones of dyed fabrics were sf(soft) and lt(light) in the case of unmordanting or Al-mordanting whereas they were d(dull) and g(grayish) by post-mordanting with Cu, Cr, and Fe, respectively. The fastness grades to rub and dry cleaning were reasonably good for most dyeing conditions while those to light were poor. Finally dyeing condition for each hue/tone of the dyed silk with the flower extract was optimized considering fastness properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.281-287
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. In previous study, dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out and Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. For further evaluation of its efficacy as a new natural dye resource, effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for silk fiber. Metasequoia cone colorant showed good affinity toward silk fiber showing YR Munsell color and maximum dye uptake was shown at pH 3.5. Post-mordanting with Cu and Fe improved dye uptake, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabrics with mordanting showed YR Munsell color. Fe mordanted fabrics appeared dark gray~black color. Colorfastness to washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics showed grade 2. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorant can be used as a new dye resource for silk fiber getting brownish yellow to dark gray/black color depending on mordant type. In addition, it showed antimicrobial functionality.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.219-229
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability of silk fabrics with sweet potato stem leaf extract. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions it was examined at various dyeing conditions(temperature, pH, time and bath ratio). The dyeability and the depths of shade which were evaluated in terms of K/S and CIELAB color difference values of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were also investigated. After dyeing, various color fastness(wash fastness, dry cleaning fastness, light fastness, rub fastness, and perspiration fastness) was measured and reviewed for UV protective, deodorant and antimicrobial functionality. The optimun output, as a result, was shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 80 minutes of dyeing time while in terms of dye uptake depending on the kind of mordants and mordanting, it was found that among four mordants of $Alk(SO_4)_2$, $CuSO_4$, $SnCl_2$, and $FeSO_4$, post-mordanting with $SnCl_2$ showed the best results. Color fastness to dry cleaning, washing and rubbing was found strong at grade 4-5 and the grade to perspiration was as good as 3 while to light fastness was good at 4 as well. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98.3% UV protection rate and 88% deodorization rate. Antibacterial activity was 99.9% against staphylococcus aureus and 73.3% against klebisella pneumoniae. In conclusion, we validated that the dyestuffs from the disused sweet potato stem leaf extract would be useful as a natural dye material using the optimized conditions and dyeability for silk dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1315-1322
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• 1997

Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.341-351
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• 2017

This study evaluates a cleaning method to maintain and minimize the change of blood soil for the selective removal of stains from textiles with historical significance and special meaning. Cotton and silk fabrics were soiled with blood, aged artificially and then washed by wet cleaning or dry cleaning (water, nonionic surfactant; Triton, natural surfactant; saponin, organic solvent; n-Decane). The washed fabrics were stored at room temperature for four years. The change of the blood soil was evaluated by SEM, weight, thickness, and color differences. Subsequently, the shape and the amount of blood adsorption on the fabric varied depending on fiber type and fabric structure characteristics; in addition, long term storage affected changes to blood soil. It was difficult to remove artificially aged blood soil from fabrics by wet or dry cleaning. However, the changes of the blood soil by these cleanings can be explained by the changes on SEM, weight, thickness and fabric color. The changes (especially color) showed over time. Wet cleaning showed that the changes of those factors were slightly lower than those by dry cleaning.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.773-786
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• 2017

The current study aims to analyze the process of fabric production planning in Dongdaemun Market, which is a successful model case industrial integration in South Korea. We followed the changes in perception among fabric experts, regarding their recognition of fashion trends, and the following planning and process of fabric production. We used the purpose sampling method to select participants for interview in the Dongdaemun Market, then we carried out one-to-one interviews. Our analysis reveals 4 points of importance. First, the fabric planning stage either employed the trend book swatch, or simply reused the model fabrics already available. Even though the experts felt the need to accept the latest fashion trends, very few considered the trends as positive influences in fabric planning. Whereas trend was a key element in identifying the flow of the fashion industry, there were obstacles in carrying out the study. Second, experts frequently participated in domestic fabric seminars, but not in textile exhibitions. Third, domestic and overseas market research has been performed typically at department stores, and typically at Japan. Fourth, the influx of Chinese fabrics has both positive and negative influences, such as low price, and low reliability. In conclusion, experts were less amenable to accepting the latest fashion trends. pre-requisites in real life to meet the use of the current trend of each company. More studies on the Dongdaemun Market from perspectives of practitioners are warranted.