• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.39-46
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• 1997

In this study, Two types of polyester fabrics were hydrolysed with NaOH using the CDR m/c of pad-steam type and the Sofleena m/c of liquor-flow type to determine the alkali hydrolysis properties of polyester fabrics. The results were as follows: Under the same conditions, the weight loss of charmeuse was about 0.5% and 2~3% higher than that of pebble with CDR m/c and with Sofleena m/c, respectively. The weft density of pebble decreased about 14picks/inch with CDR m/c and 3picks/inch with Sofleena m/c comparing to the untreated sample at 18% of weight loss, while the weft density of charmeuse decreased about 5picks/inch with CDR m/c and 2picks/inch with Sofleena m/c at 20% of weight toss. K/S value decreased almost identically within about 11% weight loss of pebble and 8% of charmeuse processed with both CDR and Sofleena. However, in the above these weight losses, K/S value of the fabrics processed with Sofleena was higher than that of fabrics processed with CDR. The bending rigidity of warp direction of the fabrics ($2{\times}10^{-2}gf.cm^2 /cm$ higher for charmeuse and ($7{\times}10^{-3}gf.cm^2 /cm$ higher for pebble) processed with CDR m/c was higher than that of the fabrics processed with Sofleena m/c.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.408-412
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• 2003

The micro structure of POY was modified and a wool-like touch yarn of composite fibers with different shrinkage was made. With this yarn 12 different fabrics with wool like touch were prepared. The characteristic physical property changes of the fabrics examined are as follows: 1. In all cases, the initial high shrinkage stages were observed in hot water treatment and the 3D images of complex multilayer of typical doubling fibers with different shrinkage were also observed in hot air treatment of 170C. 2. The tensile strength changes of satin and plain fabrics with the change of twist count showed similar behavior. However, WT's were slightly higher and RT's was lower in twill and satin fabrics than those in plain fabric. 3. Since a slight decrease of B's of twill fabric found with increasing twist count under given experimental condition, it could be influenced on the anti-drape stiffness was decreased and flexibility was increased. 4. A significant decrease of G values was observed in the twist count 800-1000 T.P.M However, in the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M G values observed were kept nearly constant. 5. MIU of plain and twill fabrics showed a drastic decrease at the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.19-29
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.137-150
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• 1997

This study examined the effects of demographic characteristics (education, income level) on the relationships among knowledge of textile fibers, information searching behavior on textile fabrics, and information sources of textile materials in children's clothings. The subjects were 307 mothers with preschool children(4∼6years) in Seoul. Data were collected using a self-administered questionnaire and analyzed using T-test analysis of variance, corelations, and crosstabulation analysis. The results indicated that : (1) Educational levels of consumers had significant influences on knowledge of textile fibers, information searching behavior on textile fabric, and information sources of textile materials in children's clothings. (2) There were significant relationship between consumer's knowledge of textile fibers and information searching behavior on textile materials in children's clothings.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1010-1017
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• 2013

Current global textiles and fashion industries have gradually shifted focus to high value-added, high sensibility, and multi-functional products based on new human-friendliness and sustainable growth technologies. Textile design CAD systems have been developed in conjunction with computer hardware and software sector advances. This study compares the patterns or images of actual woven fabrics and virtual fabrics prepared with a textile design CAD system. In this study, several weave structures (such as fancy yarn weave and patterns) were prepared with a shuttle loom. The woven textile images were taken using a CCD camera. The same weave structure data and yarn data were fed into a textile design CAD system in order to simulate fabric images as similarly as possible. Similarity Index analysis methods allowed for an analysis of the index between the actual fabric specimen and the simulated image of the corresponding fabric. The results showed that repeated small pattern weaves provide superior similarity index values than those of a fancy yarn weave that indicate some irregularities due to fancy yarn attributes. A Complex Wavelet Structural Similarity(CW-SSIM) index resulted in a better index than other methods such as Multi-Scale(MS) SSIM, and Feature Similarity(FS) SSIM, across fabric specimen images. A correlation analysis of the similarity index based on an image analysis and a similarity evaluation by panel members was also implemented.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.3 s.25
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• pp.79-88
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• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.51-52
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• 2003

In order to understand the buffering behavior of hygroscopic fabric under subzero conditions, microclimates of the wool and PET clothing system were measured and compared. Vertical type Man-Clothing-Environment simulator was used to measure the microclimate at the environmental temperature of -10$^{\circ}C$. Buffering capacity was quantified by calculating from the depth and width of the hyperbolic curve of the graph. Hydrophilic wool fabrics showed better buffering capacity at the transient state than hydrophobic PET fabrics; which is attributed to the heat of sorption.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.1-8
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• 1994

To improve the antimicrobial activity and crease resistance of Korean traditional Hansan ramie fabrics, partially saponified polyethylene(PPS) was used as a softening water repellent agent and 3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl dimethyl octadecyl ammonium chloride(QAC) as a antimicrobial agent. The antimicrobial activity was effective by treatments of PPS, QAC and PPS/QAC for shake flask test. For the halo test, PPS/QAC showed good antimicrobial activity. It was found that the desirable composition of H$_{2}$O/PPS/QAC is 98/1/1 for improving the antimicrobial activity and crease resistance of the fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1103-1113
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• 2009

Now in the 21st century, all the industries in our world are rapidly changing, including fashion trends and customers' needs as well. Fashion textile planning is also developing towards the direction where it could satisfy the merged sensitivity and incentive of the customers through an idea. The purpose of this study is to accentuate the importance of fashion material planning in fitting conventional patterns and eco-benign fabric materials. Accordingly, this study is mainly focused on the reflection of fabric planning characteristics to show tradition containing comfort and naturalness. As mixing with established fabrics and blending with natural/functional fabrics, and conforming to the trend of the seasonal fabric, it has developed a new structure and pattern by changing the basic source of traditional patterns to a computer aided design system. Therefore, four different types of items were basically up-graded by fitting it in with traditional patterns.