• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.163-180
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environment-friendly design expressed in Koran fashion. Environment-friendly design can be categorized into choice of material, extension of products life cycle, and recycling design. In this study, Korean fashion designers can be found having the conciousness of environment for fashion design since 1990. First, in choice of material, the designers used Natural fibers which are cotton, linen, wool, and etc, and used natural dyes. Some of the designers have moved from using real fur to using fake fur for animal welfare. But fake furs produced from synthetic or regenerated fibers have the environmental problems during textile production processes. Some of the designers used fake leather made from the skins of an edible fish which are otherwise going to waste. Secondly, Design for extension of products life cycle can economize the resources and energy. Design for extension of products life cycle are classified into reversible clothing, many function clothing, modular style, patina clothing, simple style, and layered look. Finally, recycling design are classified into recycling of daily necessaries and expression techniques of recycling design which are designer's works used patchwork, mash techniques, and handmade of knits or buttonhole stitch.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.224-228
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• 2005

This paper focuses on the application of a novel mathematical limit approach derived for K/S values in reactive dyeing of cotton fabrics. The relation obtained from Kubelka-Munk equation is used because the Kubelka-Munk equation is the basic relationship among fabric reflectance, fabric dye content and dyestuff characteristics. The limit approach derived in a former paper is applied to the laboratory dyeings and the dyeing behavior of some reactive dyes on cotton knitted fabric has been obtained. The results of the laboratory experiments are discussed using the new mathematical approach. When the actual K/S values obtained from the dyeings and the calculated K/S values derived by the limit approach are considered independently, it is observed that the limit relation is val id for low dye concentration applications. When the K/S values are calculated taking the K/S value of the initial dyeing concentration $(0.1\;\%\;owf)$ as the starting concentration by applying the result of the derived limit approach, the calculated K/S values fit with the ones obtained in actual dyeings. It is concluded that the novel approach presented in the paper can be used in calculating the K/S values when the initial dyeings at low dye concentrations are carefully carried out.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.1-1
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• 2001

As the basic study to investigate the mechanism of improvement in the dyeing fastness of natural dyes on silk fabrics the optical behavior of tannin solution, the optimal condition of tannin treatment and the changes of the physical structure of silk fabrics were studied in the treatment of tannin. Results obtained were as follows ; 1.The K/S values of tannin-treated silk fabrics were not changed by tannin content on silk fabrics but yellowing of tannin in treatment condition. 2. As the concentration of tannin was increased in its treating condition, the tannin content and K/S vague of tannin-treated silk fabrics were increased. 3. Because tannin gave rise to yellowing by hydrolysis and oxidation at high temperature, the higher tannin-treating temperature was, the lower the tannin content and K/S values of silk fabrics 4. The tannin content of silk fabric was higher in acidic treating condition and the highest K/S value was showed at pH 5. 5. As the tannin content of silk fabric was increased, the value of ζ -potential of it became negative. 6. As the tannin content of silk fabric was increased, the crystallinity and crystallite size of it were decreased. This meant that the fraction of amorphous region in the fibers increased. And the degree of orientation of it was decreased with the tannin treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.289-297
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• 2001

As the basic study to investigate the mechanism of improvement in the dyeing fastness of natural dyes on silk fabrics the optical behavior of tannin solution, the optimal condition of tannin treatment and the changes of the physical structure of silk fabrics were studied in the treatment of tannin. Results obtained were as follows ; 1 The K/S values of tannin-treated silk fabrics were not changed by tannin content on silk fabrics but yellowing of tannin in treatment condition. 2. As the concentration of tannin was increased in its treating condition, the tannin content and K/S vague of tannin-treated silk fabrics were increased. 3. Because tannin gave rise to yellowing by hydrolysis and oxidation at high temperature, the higher tannin-treating temperature was, the lower the tannin content and K/S values of silk fabrics 4. The tannin content of silk fabric was higher in acidic treating condition and the highest K/S value was showed at pH 5. 5. As the tannin content of silk fabric was increased, the value of $\xi$ -potential of it became negative. 6. As the tannin content of silk fabric was increased, the crystallinity and crystallite size of it were decreased. This meant that the fraction of amorphous region in the fibers increased. And the degree of orientation of it was decreased with the tannin treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.1-6
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• 1999

The porosities of PET fibers were investigated using a nitrogen porosimeter according to oxygen plasma treatment and dyeing with a disperse dye, and they were discussed in terms of the change of internal micro-structure of the PET fiber. The total pore volume, surface area and average pore size of the plasma treated PET fibers increased expectably compared with the untreated sample. The PET fibers treated with oxygen plasma and then dyed with a disperse dye were increased significantly in the surface area and the total pore volume comparing with those of plasma treated only, but decreased in the average pore size. The increase of the surface area, after dyeing, of the plasma treated PET fibers was due to addition of the surface area of the dye itself to that of the PET fiber. The increase of the total pore volume of the plasma treated PET fibers by dyeing, which is the opposite result to the general idea that the pore volume of fibers would be reduced by occupation of dye molecules in the pores, could be explained by the free-volume model. This is that the amorphous region in the fiber expanded by occupation of dye molecules, and the marginal space surrounding dyes was generated as many smaller pores, and the decrease of the average pore size of the dyed sample also could be explained The decrease of the average pore size was caused by the splitting of a larger pore into smaller pores.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.9-26
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• 1996

이 연구의 목적은 에틸렌이민 유도체를 갖는 아조계 분산 염료의 나일론 6.6 섬유에의 응용과 최적화된 폴리에스테르 및 나이론 극세사 섬유 염색 조건의 확립이다. 세가지 아지리디닐 모노 아조 염료와 이들 염료의 가수분해 된 형태 그리고 디메틸아닐린계 아조 염료의 폴리에스테르 및 나일론 6.6 극세사 섬유에 대한 염색 및 견뢰도 성질이 조사되었다. 염색 조건 중 pH의 변화에 따른 섬유상의 염착량 변화 조사에서 뚜렷한 경향을 얻을 수 없었으며, 이는 극세사 섬유의 물리적 성질이 두드러지게 착용한 이유라 여겨진다. 염색된 폴리에스테르 극세사 섬유상에서, 아지리디닐 염료는 이들의 가수 분해된 형태 그리고 디메틸아닐린계 아조 염료의 비교하여 개선된 견뢰도 성질을 나타내었다. 아지리디닐 아조 염료의 나일론 극세사 섬유 염색 시 pH 증가에 따라 세탁 및 광견뢰도가 개선되었고, pH8의 염색 조건에서 최적 견뢰도 개선을 나타내었다. 아지리디닐 아조 염료가 이들 염료의 가수분해 된 형태 그리고 디메틸아닐린계 아조 염료와 비교하여 폴리에스테르 및 나일론 섬유상에서 보다 개선된 견뢰도 성질을 나타내었고 이는 섬유와 염료간의 공유 결합으로 기인한 것으로 여겨진다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.7-13
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• 2005

Continuous and intense UV irradiation on PTT film using two types of UV bulbs at different irradiation power level was carried out to modify surface characteristics of the film including zeta potential, wettability, surface energy, and dyeability. ESCA analysis of the irradiated film showed higher O/C ratio than the untreated film indicating photooxidation of outer surface layer. ATR analysis showed that the ester bonds were broken and some new groups were produced such as carboxylic acid, phenolic hydroxy, and other esters, implying that ester bonds of PTT was responsible for the observed photooxidation effect. The surface of the treated PTT film became more hydrophilic and wettable to water, coupled with increased surface energy. Polar component of the surface energy increased and nonpolar component decreased with increasing irradiation energy. The treatment also decreased zeta potential of the modified surface and nanoscale roughness increased with increasing irradiation. The dyeability of the treated films to catonic dyes was significantly improved by electrostatic and polar interaction between dye molecules and the anionic film surface. The UV irradiation seems to be a viable polymer surface modification technology, which has advantages such as no vacuum requirement and continuous process unlike plasma treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.22-29
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• 1999

The increase in color depth of polyester fiber dyed with black disperse dyes was investigated with respect to the kinds of resins and alkali treatment. The color depth of the dyed polyester fiber increased continuously according to the concentration of resins coated onto the fabrics. The alkali treatment to polyester fiber before dyeing also enhanced the color depth. It was thought that the polyester fiber was hydrolyzed by alkali resulting micropores on the sample. And the following treatment with a resin, Jet Black T-101, to the polyester fiber increased the color depth much higher. The successive process of alkali treatment, dyeing and Jet Black T-101 treatment could give the best color depth to polyester fiber. Although the alkali treatment reduced the tensile strength of polyester fiber, the color depth of polyester fiber enhanced sufficiently within the range of practically acceptable weight loss and strength. To analyze the micropore on the polyester fiber formed by alkali treatment, nitrogen porosimeter was used. As the weight loss of polyester fiber treated with alkali increased, the BET(Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) surface area, total pore volume, and average pore size of the sample increased.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.25-29
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• 2013

Poly ketone (PK) was photo-oxidized by UV/ozone irradiation and the effect of UV energy on the surface properties of the UV-irradiated PK film was investigated by the measurement of reflectance, surface roughness, contact angles, ESCA, and ATR. Reflectance, particularly at the wavelength of 380nm, decreased with increasing UV energy. And the irradiation produced nano-scale roughness on the surface uniformly. The maximum surface roughness increased from 25.3nm for the unirradiated sample to 104.9nm at the irradiation of $42.4J/cm^2$. The improvement in hydrophilicity was caused by the introduction of polar groups such as C-O and C=O bonds resulting in higher $O_{1s}/C_{1s}$. The surface energy of PK film increased from $43.3mJ/m^2$ for the unirradiated sample to $71.9mJ/m^2$ at the irradiation of $31.8J/cm^2$. The zeta potential of the UV-irradiated PK decreased with increased UV energy and the dyeability to cationic dyes increased accordingly, resulting from the photochemically introduced anionic and dipolar dyeing sites on the PK films surfaces.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.10-22
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• 1995

Cellulosic fabrics, i.e. rayon, polynosic, and linen were treated with liquid ammonia at -33.4$^{\circ}C$. The fine structures, bending properties, tensile strength, wrinkle recoveries, and dyeing properties of the treated fabrics were studied. Dyeing was carried out with two direct dyes, C. I. Direct Red 2 and Blue 1. The liquid ammonia treatment for three fabrics brought about the transition of crystal lattices and the decrease of crystallinity; transforming cellulose I structure of original linen to cellulose I and III structure, and cellulose II structure of original rayon and polynosic to cellulose II and III structure. Moisture regain of liquid ammonia- treated polynosic and linen was higher than that for untreated, and water absorbency of liquid ammonia-traeated fabrics was all lower than that of untreated. Also, bending properties of treated fabrics were not improved compared with those of untreated ones. The rayon treated with liquid ammonia was increased not only the apparent diffusion coefficient and the rate of dyeing but also equilibrium dye adsortion, whereas polynosic and linen were increased only equilibrium dye adsortion. It is suggested that the pore sizes of liquid ammonia-treated rayon, polynosic, and linen are much smaller than that of liquid ammonia-treated cotton.