• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.635-645
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• 2015

This study analyzed the range of motion of upper body in different configurations of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment. The purpose of this study was to understand the influence of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment over upper body motion in order to improve design of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment. 12 firefighters' upper body range of motion was analyzed while performing standing and walking trials in five different garment configurations including turnout ensemble, fire boots and the self-contained breathing apparatus. Analysis of upper body range of motion included spinal joints of L5S1, L4L3, T1C7, and C1Head. During standing trials, garment configurations caused a significant difference in range of motions at joints of L5S1, L4L3, T1C7, and C1Head. Analysis on the mean of range of motions at L5S1 and L4L3, showed that firefighters' waist bent forward significantly to a greater extent while they wore a self-contained breathing apparatus. A significantly increased range of motion was found for T1C7 and C1Head while carrying a self-contained breathing apparatus, which indicated an increase in the extension of the trunk and neck backward to stand upright and look squarely. A significant difference in range of motion was also found for L5S1 and L4L3 during walking trials.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.66-78
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest a direction for fashion criticism in aesthetic$\hat{u}$cultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticism and fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism is defined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aesthetic analysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combines Feldman's and Carney's models with Crane & Bovone's and Entwistle's sociological studies for aesthetic and cultural perspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows 'Description'-'Descriptive formative features', 'Analysis'-'Locate the style' and 'Aesthetic value', 'Interpretation'- 'Interpretation of the fashion object' and 'Socio-cultural interpretation', 'Judgment'-'Critical judgment'. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes 'Socio-cultural interpretation' of the 6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashion system, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of the fashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts, discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of the communication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolic values to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.336-345
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• 2019

This study evaluated the preference and wearing characteristics of existing fitness compression wear for elderly women and identified the problems and improvements of existing fitness apparel. Preference and wearing characteristics for 6 types (A-F) of upper and lower fitness compression wear were evaluated. Photos and drawings as well as the preferred designs and details were investigated after presenting the evaluation clothing. Evaluations were made on a 5 point Likert scale for the fitness, allowance, pressure, ease of movement, fabric material, and overall satisfaction after wearing. The design preference indicated that B type (26.6%) and C type (23.4%) were preferred in the top with C, E and F type preferred to the same ratio of 19.4% in the slacks. The fitness and allowance amount of the top B type were the most appropriate (${\geq}4$), the C type was in close contact (2.86), and the F type was inadequate in the neck circumference (1.77). The feeling of pressure was high in the waist, abdomen, thighs, and knees. The area where the elderly people want to improve their strength was the legs; in addition, a pattern design was needed to strengthen leg muscles when designing fitness compression wear. However, a design with excessive adhesion due to a muscle support band was shown to be not preferred. Therefore, depending on the activity, it is necessary to develop a fitness compression wear that applies an optimum stretching ratio of fabric based on body surface area changes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.979-986
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• 2014

This study establishes basic data for operations management by organizing processes and measuring time in the mini line for female jackets to improve productivity, ensure competitiveness, and maintain operator competency and the line process flow balance between apparel manufacturing companies. The results of this study are as follows. Sewing operations are divided into preparation functions, arrangement, partial tasks, and assembly that consist of 84 processes. The results from time measurement indicate that 3238.41seconds (sec) were required to produce a single jacket and that the average time required for operators was 231.32 sec. A control limit was established to increase the reliability of the measured value for net time. After outside values were removed, the operation time was measured to be 3176.35 sec. This accounted for 98.08% of the total operation time, with net time decreasing by 62.06. Skill and effort level coefficients were applied to measure the operator performance, the total real time was calculated to be 3415. The requirement for preparation and arrangement operations were 1233.35 sec, and 2182.22 sec for partial tasks and assembly operations. Process separation and organization were performed after the bottleneck operation was selected to identify the maximum line balance. Consequently, process efficiency of preparation and arrangement operations increased from 79.19% to 93.00%, and the partial tasks and assembly operations increased from 62.36% to 90.93%.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.44-54
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• 2024

In this study, the sizing systems of 40 unisex sweatshirt brands were analyzed to collect the size information needed to produce unisex clothing. Each size specification was compared with the body size distribution and percentiles of men and women aged 18 to 29. Depending on the brand, unisex sweatshirt sizes ranged from 1 to 8. Despite being unisex apparel, three brands offered only one or two sizes. Out of the brands surveyed, 50% were found to offer four or five sizes. Out of the 40 brands, 25 used letters such as "S," "M," and "L" to indicate the size designation. More than 92.5% of the brands included M and L, and the sizing system tended to focus on larger sizes such as XL and 2XL rather than smaller sizes such as XS and S. The size specifications of shoulder width, chest circumference, sleeve length, and total length were compared with the body size distribution and percentiles of men and women aged 18 to 29. The distribution of each size specification mostly appeared in a section larger than the men's body size. The size specifications of unisex sweatshirts were set close to or larger than men's sizes and hardly represented women's sizes. To increase consumer satisfaction with unisex clothing, establishing a size standard that could accurately reflect the body size distribution of men and women was found to be imperative. Such a size standard could also help each brand specify or diversify its target and differentiate itself with other brands.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.221-229
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• 2017

This study researched the needs of smart fashion items using energy harvesting for outdoor wearers and surveyed the application areas and design preferences for energy-harvesting systems based on outdoor activities. A total of 217 subjects were surveyed. Subjects who had at least 3 years of experience in outdoor activities were selected in order to increase the reliability of the research results. The survey investigated lifestyles based on outdoor activities, outdoor clothing and electronic equipment usage, purchase style, utilization plan, and design preference for energy-harvesting clothing and supplies. The results showed that 62.7% of the respondents had experience in outdoor activities for more than five years. 96.3% of the subjects carried electronic equipment, and 179 participants(82.5%) experienced discomfort due to battery consumption/dead batteries during outdoor activities. 78.4% were interested in smat fashion items using energy-harvesting technology, and the energy-conversion technology that was useful for outdoor activities was "kinetic energy"(74.7%). Participants showed a high preference for a detachable type(30.9%) and a city type(69.1%) that can be worn in outdoor activities as well as in general life. The preferred location of the electric power-charging device was the "Hem area of top garment"(35.9%), and the reason for this selection was that it was easy to operate and did not interfere with movement. The data from this paper can be used as a basis for product planning and product design for energy-harvesting apparel designers and supply developers for outdoor clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.493-504
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• 2022

This study aims to gain a deeper understanding of the fashion styles of underground rappers in China and South Korea. Due to rappers' fashion influence on modern fashion trends, research on rapper fashion has been conducted steadily in the field of apparel. Qualitative research methodologies including literature research and in-depth interviews were the primary techniques used to solve the research questions. In-depth interviews were conducted with 10 Chinese underground rappers and 10 Korean underground rappers to reveal and explore their fashion style and view of fashion. As a result, the participants' fashion styles were categorized into four styles: authentic hip-hop fashion style, popularized hip-hop fashion style, easy sports casual style, and trendy street style. Rappers from both countries consider that their identity as rappers can be demonstrated through their hip-hop fashion style. The influence of hip-hop culture and the popularity of rap music differs between China and Korea. It affects not only the rapper's musical characteristics, but also their fashion style. While Korean underground rappers' fashions style is trendier, Chinese underground rappers' fashions style displays stronger characteristics of hip-hop fashion. Due to the public's negative view of rappers, some Korean underground rappers intentionally try to hide their identity by wearing a fashion style that differs from the authentic rapper image. Understanding the fashion styles of underground rappers in Korea and China is expected to assist in predicting future hip-hop culture and rapper fashion trends.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.111-117
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• 2014

This study investigated the perception of upcycling for sensitive university students in regards to fashion trends. It was conducted through questionnaires delivered to male and female college students who majored in clothing related subjects from June 2012 to June 2013 in Gwangju. The contents for this research are general details, seriousness of environmental resources, awareness of upcycle, and purchasing intention for upcycling products. Most of the respondents said that recycling of resources is absolutely necessary due to the impact of environmental pollution and the consumption of resources. On the contrary, the experience of the respondents which purchased recycling products was low. The awareness of also was low, upcycling, internal upcycling brands and internal consumption groups, however, the decisions for subsequent purchases were positive. The reasons for the unsatisfactory of upcycling of products were due to quality and price. The reaction for many upcycle goods had the best question response rate in daily supplies part; subsequently, this study suggested 3 items, apparel products, fashion accessories, and daily supplies. In addition, a group which contains people who expend more for clothing had a lower awareness of upcycle and purchasing intention than other groups that contained some people who expend less. The results of the study can be used in data that recognize the necessary of upcycle education for university students, and develop educational programs. It can also encourage the purchase of upcycle products that reduce the consumption of resources.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.708-715
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• 2016

This study researched the sizing system of dress form for apparel manufacturing in the domestic market. It aims to be used as basic data for the development of a dress form that could be used by manufacturers of senior men's clothing. Research focused on the sizes presented on the homepages of 17 dress form manufacturers in the USA, France, Japan, and Korea. Body measurement was made for senior men in their 50's over men (n=134). Six items were measured by the 'Standard body measurement of Size Korea'. The type of dress form in the domestic market can be classified into half-body type (upper body type and lower body type), torso, and whole-body type; in addition, each type is divided into upper arm, arm, crotch, and thigh. Korean dress form manufacturers produced/sold diverse kinds (size 7-9) for women; however, they used large/small sizes or product sizes for men without defining sizes. The chest size (93-105cm) has not been standardized while the rates of waist circumference, hip circumference and shoulder length (in accordance with the chest size) were all different. Global dress form brands manufactured reflecting body dimensions by the state organization USA ASTM. Japan JIS. For this reason, most domestic clothing businesses depend on imported dress forms. Especially, there were no dress forms for senior men. With the growing market for seniors, it would be necessary to produce senior dress forms for clothing production that reflect the body shapes and sizes of seniors.