• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.5
• /
• pp.788-798
• /
• 2009

This study aims to develop a highly reproducible, optimal frame design algorithm using variations in the curvature of armscye circumference, which will provide the basics for remodeling the 3D human body shape with the concept of reverse design used to develop total contents for the apparel industry. 1. The results of the experiment proved that ratio value was significantly efficient than absolute value of curvature variation to extract feature points in the armscye circumference 2. For the shoulder(1st and 2nd quadrant) and front armhole(3rd quadrant) parts of the armscye circumference, frame remodeling with the positive point of inflection led to the completion of a highly reproducible frame. 3. Similarly, even for the rear armhole part(4th quadrant) in the armscye circumference, it was found that frame remodeling using the positive maximum point of inflection resulted in highly reproducible body shape with the maximum point of inflection situated within the range of split angles $305^{\circ}{\sim}330^{\circ}$, while frame remodeling using simultaneously the two largest points of inflection including maximum point of inflection led to highly reproducible body shape with the maximum point of inflection out of the range $305^{\circ}{\sim}330^{\circ}$. 4. Based upon the optimal frame design algorithm developed in this study, section-specific feature points in the armscye circumference were extracted depending on the rate of curvature variation and remodeling with spline curves was conducted. The results indicate a remarkably high reproducibility(98.6%) and suggest that the algorithm developed in this study is suitable for human body modeling.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.10
• /
• pp.104-118
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.38
• /
• pp.193-211
• /
• 1998

Without a solid marketing system in placed, the fashion industry cannot flourish on out-standing design or technology alone. Even though the significance of collecting and analyzing information, merchandising, and retail distribution is recognized, these functions are not firmly rooted or prevalent in our industry. In contrast, Italy which possesses similar demographic traits such as the lack of natural resources and other physical factors has succeed-ed in globalizing its fashion market by responding swiftly and exercising flexiblity to its constantly changing consumer demand. This in turn has earned Italy the competitive edge in the global fashion arena. Italy's unique management skills and operation know-how, along with successful market strategies come into play in bringing competitiveness to Italy's fashion market. Firstly, smaller companies with ability to adopt swiftly to the ever changing market. Secondly, fashion friendly social environment. Thirdly, niche marketing through highly specialized system and differentiation. Fourthly, timeless innovation through intense corporate competition. Lastly, establishment of foundations to support the industry through diverse networking. The alone building blocks have formed a basis for erecting an unparalleled market with a reputation for excellence in design and quality in the global fashion world. This study has examined how Italy's fashion industry has evolved from an underdeveloped textile business into a cutting edge fashion in-dustry. Italy's unique business processes and practices were studied to come up with a collection and merchandising ideas in a niche market. By selecting this venue we are able to continuously grow and develop in a market with diverse consumer needs. To analyze the Italian fashion market, data from 3 institutions were utilized, namely, CIT-ER which has provided consumer trends and sales analysis, SITA,a data service provided statistics from the textile and apparel businesses, and NBI has also furnished valuable data. Italian consumer preference, buying behavior, consumer profile, retail channels and other related data from the above institutions has formed a backbone for market segmentation and target markets, and as a result, we were able to zero in on the type of consumer, produce, pricing and retail channels for our womenswear. Going forward the direction is to elevate product image and pretige, and create syn-ergy between related industries, and at the same note, in order to develop internationally recognized brands such as Max Mara and Benetton. Certain elements such as the specialization of the fashion industry, alon-g with fashion-related data base and systems support, and most importantly experts with acute fashion sense and capacity to analyze pertinent data are in need. I firmly believe that we can achieve Italy's level in the fashion market with support from the government and unrelenting effort within the industry itself, and hope that this report can prove to be useful.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.454-464
• /
• 2012

In this study, fitness tests for slacks were divided into shape fitness test and motion fitness test, and the fitness test conditions for slacks were designed as the first step for standardization of measuring scales. Shape fitness test consisted of analyzing the parameters of appearance sensory tests as described in preceding studies, performing a simulated appearance sensory test, collecting and considering apparel experts' opinions about the test parameters, and establishing test conditions in terms of test regions, descriptions and faces. For the regions of the abdomen, hip, crotch, thighs, and knees, the parameter of unnecessary wrinkle/stretch was observed from the anterior and posterior body, and then evaluated; for waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the parameters of ease and horizontality were observed from the anterior body and posterior body followed by evaluation; and, at the levels of waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the division of the lateral line were observed from the lateral body followed by evaluation. Motion fitness test was composed of reviewing and analyzing comparatively the methods of motion fitness tests as mentioned in preceding studies, and establishing test conditions in terms of test motions and test regions. For each of the waist, abdomen, hip, crotch, and knees, wear sensation was tested in the positions as follows: upright standing, moderate walking, chairsitting, bending forward to the maximum, and kneeling down, provided that as the measured points of garment pressure, anterior waist, abdominal protrusion, buttock protrusion, crotch, and midpatella were set and tested.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.6
• /
• pp.886-898
• /
• 2013

This study explores the types, shapes and changes of the court dance garments of mudong[child court dancer] and yeoryeong[female court dancer] for court dances such as Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu, and the arrangement of colors in their garments. The conclusion of the study is as follows: First, the type of garments of mudong varied according to the type of dance, role of mudong and passage of time. In all four jeongjae's, hongpo[red robe] and baekjilheukseonjungdaneui[white under garment trimmed in black] were commonly found. Second, the dress of yeoryeong in the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu was that of other yeoryeong, which was basically comprised of hwagwan[flower headdress], hwangchosam[yellow robe], hongchosang[red skirt] and sudae[embroidered belt]. Third, the color schemes of the court dance garments used in Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu revealed that the color arrangement of sangsaeng [mutual generation] of the Ohaeng[Five Elements] scheme were favored in the garments of mudong and yeoryeong. The dress of mudong is characterized by sangsaeng between top and bottom, and between total and part, while the color scheme of the outer and inner was sanggeuk[mutual overcoming]. As for yeoryeong, the color arrangement was of sangsaeng in top and bottom, outer and inner, and total and part, but in the five-colored hansam[sleeve extension], both sangsaeng and sanggeuk were found.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.405-420
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify the differences between clothing size satisfaction and clothing sizing systems of Korean and foreign SPA (specialty retailer of private label apparel) brands according to height group, and provide foundation material that can be used to establish product strategy from the perspective of Korean SPA brand clothing sizes in order to secure competitiveness in the international market. Satisfaction of tall women in their twenties with the clothing sizes of SPA brands was researched, and t-test was conducted to examine differences between clothing size satisfaction of Korean and foreign SPA brands between the two height groups. Then, differences in the size minimum and maximum values, size ranges, size intervals and size numbers between clothing sizing systems of Korean and foreign SPA brands were researched and comparatively analyzed. Existing clothing sizes need to make improvements considering the lengths and shoulder width of tall consumers. And Korean SPA brands need to diversify the range and number of sizes in the clothing sizing system, and set a separate tall-size group, or apply the relationship between vertical and horizontal sizes of clothing to establish a clothing sizing system. A product strategy that applies the results of this study will solve the clothing size dissatisfaction of tall female consumers and stimulate sales of Korean SPA brand clothing products. The study has value in that it extracted realistic problems by researching clothing sizing systems of products that are actually sold.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.1359-1371
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this paper is to compare two avatars made using direct and manual methods and to evaluate the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars. In this study, two subjects were measured by $[TC]^2$ body scanner and the avatars and virtual garments were created by OptiTex software. The direct avatar was made by the direct importation of 3D body scan data and the manual avatar was made by manual input from extracted body measurement. Two virtual garments in a tank-top were evaluated by distance, transparency, and stretch maps. In the results of comparing difference of the direct and manual avatars, the bust and back of the manual avatar are protruded slightly more than that of the direct avatar and the manual avatar is slightly larger dimensions at the bust, waist, abdomen, and hip area in the side view in case of subject 1 and 2. In the results of comparing difference of the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars, in case of subject 1 and 2, the back of the virtual garment on the manual avatar are protruded more than that of the direct avatar. Also, the ease in the bust area of the virtual garment on the manual avatar with a projected bust area was smaller than that of the virtual garment on the direct avatar and the stretch of that of the manual avatar was also high in the bust area. The results of this study are expected to be used as basic information in the apparel industry using virtual try-on technology.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.3
• /
• pp.266-278
• /
• 2018

This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel's unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.6
• /
• pp.979-988
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the lower body size and forms of married women in their thirties who have experienced pregnancy and parturition. Their measurements derived from the direct anthropometry and indirect photographic measures were compared to those of 20's. Improving consumer satisfaction for missy brand, especially in fitness of skirt and pants, some lower body classification were presented. The results were as follows : 1. The characteristics of lower body showed many differences by individuals especially in depth, girth, length and angle measures rather than height and breadth measures. Many items including index, calculations and angles revealed significant differences compared to those of 20's. Several breadth items, crotch length had distinct increase than those of women in twenties. Flattened buttocks side silhouette from waist to hip, buttocks drooping and decrease of inclination implied the influence of pregnancy, parturition and aging. 2. We hardly find out sizing system differences between missy brand and miss brand. Based on waist and hip girth measurements of subjects, sizing system of missy apparel wasn't suitable for their body size. Excessive drop(hip girth-waist girth) of missy brands, 25~30 cm, was almost the same to the drop of miss brands. 3. To improve the size satisfaction of missy women, we classified the lower body into 5 types according to drop, buttocks angle and hip length. Type 1 was small waist with large buttocks projection, and hip length was close to an average. Type 2 was small waist with medium buttocks projection, and the hip length was close to an average. Type 3 was medium waist, with average projection of the buttocks and hip length. Type 4 was large waist, projection of the buttocks and the hip length were close to an average. Type 5 was large waist, projection of the buttocks was small and the hip length was close to an average.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.635-645
• /
• 2015

This study analyzed the range of motion of upper body in different configurations of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment. The purpose of this study was to understand the influence of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment over upper body motion in order to improve design of firefighters' protective clothing and equipment. 12 firefighters' upper body range of motion was analyzed while performing standing and walking trials in five different garment configurations including turnout ensemble, fire boots and the self-contained breathing apparatus. Analysis of upper body range of motion included spinal joints of L5S1, L4L3, T1C7, and C1Head. During standing trials, garment configurations caused a significant difference in range of motions at joints of L5S1, L4L3, T1C7, and C1Head. Analysis on the mean of range of motions at L5S1 and L4L3, showed that firefighters' waist bent forward significantly to a greater extent while they wore a self-contained breathing apparatus. A significantly increased range of motion was found for T1C7 and C1Head while carrying a self-contained breathing apparatus, which indicated an increase in the extension of the trunk and neck backward to stand upright and look squarely. A significant difference in range of motion was also found for L5S1 and L4L3 during walking trials.