• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.941-955
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• 2003

In this study, the researcher investigated how tailored garment were accepted and developed in India where the traditional costumes, such as Sari and Dhothi, excluding the tailored process, were mainly worn. It is suspected that pants and coats were first introduced during the Kushan Dynasty but they scarcely influenced on the costumes of India. In the 7th Century when Islam made its entrance in India, pants and coats were not accepted in India due to the exclusive attitudes of Indians, Hindu. Pants and coats were worn locally as Indian costumes through the Islamic Mughul Empire in the 16th Century. During that period, the cultural exchange between Islam and Hindu made the change of the clothes of India reflected the mixing of Islamic and Hindu elements. The colonization of India by Great Britain that was the turning point for diverse kinds of tailored garment in the costume history of India inasmuch as western elements were introduced. The western style tailored method and design changed the appearance of Indian pants into slimmer style. The style spread and influenced on the design of indian clothes greatly; hence, western style shirts and coats were accepted in India.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.934-950
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• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.617-627
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• 2020

This study investigates the apparel sizing communication presented in online retail websites focusing on women's ready-to-wear tailored jackets and to analyze the meaning of these information as the actual product size guide factor. A total of 34 retail websites were selected based on the highest growth fashion companies list and the best fashion brands list. We collected size information in two types: size specifications including sizing code, body measurements, garment measurements, and size references including customized size guide tools, size information in customer reviews, model size information, and others. Most websites prefer to present garment measurements rather than body measurements that are recommended notations under Korean standards and related regulations. In addition, there was the absence of consistency in presenting measurements list and terms that can confuse consumers in size communication. This study found that the stature measurement was a key factor in size reference despite that it did not represent a proper garment size. The obsolete Korean numbering sizing code such as '55 and '66 was still used in many ways such as idiomatic expressions for body shape. It also implied that we can take advantage of the old sizing code for accessible size information. The finding of this study gives an in-depth diagnosis of current online sizing information problems and suggests useful basic data for developing online apparel size standards and marketing strategies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.485-500
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the formal wear for social activity of dwarf. Second investigation for choices of designs based upon data from the first questionnaire investigation, led us to make proposals for design, pattern production, garment-cutting and dressmaking. The effect of wearing the made-up garments was carefully evaluated in order to establish principles for the development of clothes for dwarf. Conclusion is as follow. Dwarf felt uneasy in conventional street dress. When buying clothes their most important criteria was design wanted clothes that would help them to look taller. Analysis of design preference to complement perceived physical weak points revealed: 'a pink ensemble' comprising of a high-waist, one-piece dress, and a black slacks suit comprising of a striped, single-breasted, tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse. It was found that a bolero jacket and a high-waist, ankle-length, one-piece dress helped create an optical illusion of increased height, for both the wearer and an observer. A pastel ton-pink, one-piece also created this effect on small bodily types, as well as offering a silky, mellow attractiveness. A suit of a striped, single-breasted tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse, created the two fold illusion of disguising hip imbalance with the length of the jacket and drawing an onlooker\`s gaze to the wearer\`s face through the tailored collar, they also looked taller due to the stripes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.216-224
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• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.59-72
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to establish objective data for marketing of industries and product development design by researching popular singer fashion of Korea, investigating the preference for popular singer design in street fashion among adolescents on the basis of the research, and drawing an conclusion. To analyze street fashion, total 190 young men and women in their 20s, including teenagers, were surveyed mainly in downtowns around Daehakro, Gangnam and Hongik University. First, in relation to the upper garment, men were found to wear T-shirts and hood T-shirts the most, while women were found to wear T-shirts and one-piece dress the most. Second, in relation to the lower garment, the ratio of those who wore skinny clothes was high both among men and women. Third, in relation to the outer apparel, the ratio of men who wore casual jacket and hood zip-up was high, while the ratio of women who wore tailored jacket and leather jacket was high. Fourth, in relation to shoes, the ratio of men who wore sports shoes was high, while the ratio of women who wore heeled-shoe was high. Fifth, it was found that plane pattern was preferred the most. As it was stated above, the findings of this study on the effect of entertainers' fashion on adolescents through street fashion indicated that the number of adolescents who imitate the fashion of entertainers increased.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.347-356
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the sizing system and size designation of ready-made jackets for women. We survey the sizing system and size labeling that have been used and presently practiced by the domestic garment industry of ready-made woman's jacket. In addition, 264 tailored jackets are measured for the sake of this study. The jackets are classified into 3 groups(young, missy, and madame) according to the target age of the brand. The result shows that size labeling involves body measurements(85-94-160), size code(55, 66) or simplified letter(S, M, L). However, the correspondence of size information and ease tolerances of jackets is not consistent and each company has its own sizing system. There are significant differences among young, missy, and madame group on the bust girth of apparel in 66size code. The average apparel size piteh measurement distributions(bust girth and hip girth respectively) of young group are 9cm and 13cm in 55 size code, those of missy group are 7 em and 3 cm in 66 size code, and those of madame group are 6cm and 4cm in 77 size code. The ease of bust girth and hip girth in missy group are much more than other groups.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.96-114
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• 2023

In modern society, there is a tendency to prioritize both fashion and comfort, with a preference for loose-fit clothing that enhances mobility. While darts may not be visibly present on the garment's exterior, their effects should be dispersed and incorporated into the design. However, there is a significant lack of systematic research on dartless patterns in the current state. Therefore, this study focuses on investigating dartless patterns used in loose-fit clothing tailored to the body measurements of women in their 20s. The objective of this research is to develop foundational dartless patterns that serve as a basis for diverse design possibilities in loose-fit clothing. To achieve this purpose, seven dartless patterns introduced in clothing construction references were selected for the production of experimental prototypes, which were then subjected to visual evaluations by a panel of experts. Based on the evaluation results, superior patterns were selected and they underwent modification and improvement to develop the research patterns. The developed research patterns were derived through the formulation of calculation formulas, and based on these formulas, garments were produced. Subsequently, a second round of visual evaluations was conducted by a panel of experts, and notable improvements were observed in most of the aspects assessed. However, it should be noted that this study was limited to women in their 20s it did not explore a wide range of fabrics. Therefore, further research is needed in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.249-259
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• 2022

To analyze recent changes in designer-specific garment composition, detail, and design elements of jackets, we classified jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S to 2019 F/W according to their designers and examined their characteristics. Our analysis of the jackets by Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Valentino shows that the hour-glass silhouette was most common in Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino jackets; Chanel used more straight silhouettes compared to other designers. Most jackets, regardless of the designer, had midlength waist-to-bottom, tight sleeves fitted to the body, natural shoulder shape, and solid color. Moreover, woven fabric was the most common material. Jackets with no collar were the most common for Armani, tailored collars for Dior and Jean-Paul Gaultier, and standing collars for Chanel and Valentino. For the closure method, Armani used hook-and-eye, Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Valentino used button closures, and Dior used snap closures the most. New design attempts by designers are bringing details and design elements together. In an era characterized by an abundance of designs and frequent replacement of each brand's creative designers, it is important to create and maintain a brand's unique design identity and philosophy that can meet consumers' elevated standards, which tend to be biased towards new and stimulating designs due to the development of the IT industry.