• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제26권6호
• /
• pp.843-852
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to propose a computer-based grading method for men's formal wear according to the sizing systems based on the size and dimension whereby manufactured men's formal wear can be classified. The following procedures were as follows : 1) We surveyed the sizing systems and the computer-grading methods that have been used and presently practiced by the domestic garment industry of the ready-made men's wear. 2) Using the survey data of the domestic men's ready-made clothing industry and that of the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea in 1997, we proposed the new sizing and grading systems of men's formal wear within the framework of the Korean Garment Industry's directions and the data of the domestic men's ready-made clothing industry. 3) The suitability of the new grading systems to the domestic garment industry were put to a wearing teat. The findings were as follows : 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing and grading systems. 2) The superiority of the grading system was been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in the testing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제20권3호
• /
• pp.304-311
• /
• 2018

This research used a questionnaire to provide basic data for the design of dressing form that enables the manufacture of senior menswear with an improved fit to match the dissatisfaction with the fit of male suits over the 50s. We used 132 questionnaires as analytical data. The results were: The item 'purchasing method of formal suits' showed that 95.5% purchased ready-to-wear jackets. The 'abdominal obesity type' and 'trunk waist type' had a high frequency of 'complaints about the size of the ready-to-wear jacket'. They choose their suits and wear them directly from the store. It is expected that senior males will complain about ready-to-wear formal suits due to the increase in girth item than normal type due to change of body shape since they consider size to also be important when purchasing suits. The most important part of the body when purchasing suits is the shoulder area, followed by the front width and back width of the fit. As for the degree of recognition of suit size, 38.1% said that they know the size and 'Suit size is hard to understand'. As a result of dissatisfaction with formal dressing, the items of 'Neck wide of get loose', 'Drag line of back neck', 'Not fit of front opening', 'Not fit of shoulder slope' and 'dissatisfaction'. Therefore, it is salient to establish suit fitting system and size system for senior men.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제15권6호
• /
• pp.176-203
• /
• 2011

In today's intensifying global competition, Korean fashion industry is relying on only qualitative data for feasibility study of future projects and developmental plan. This study was conducted in order to support establishment of a scientific and rational management system that reflects market demand. First, fashion market size was limited to the total amount of expenditure for fashion clothing products directly purchased by Koreans for wear during 6 months in spring and summer and 6 months in autumn and winter. Fashion market forecasting model was developed using statistical forecasting method proposed by previous research. Specifically, time series model was selected, which is a verified statistical forecasting method that can predict future demand when data from the past is available. The time series for empirical analysis was fashion market sizes for 8 segmented markets at 22 time points, obtained twice each year by the author from 1998 to 2008. Targets of the demand forecasting model were 21 research models: total of 7 markets (excluding outerwear market which is sensitive to seasonal index), including 6 segmented markets (men's formal wear, women's formal wear, casual wear, sportswear, underwear, and children's wear) and the total market, and these markets were divided in time into the first half, the second half, and the whole year. To develop demand forecasting model, time series of the 21 research targets were used to develop univariate time series models using 9 types of exponential smoothing methods. The forecasting models predicted the demands in most fashion markets to grow, but demand for women's formal wear market was forecasted to decrease. Decrease in demand for women's formal wear market has been pronounced since 2002 when casualization of fashion market intensified, and this trend was analyzed to continue affecting the demand in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제26권1호
• /
• pp.62-73
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop men's formal jacket pattern for the Korean males of age 25 to 34 age with an average physique. Through the survey on seven industries of the ready-made men's wear, we investigated size systems and jacket patters presently practiced. From the fitting test of four patterns (three for ready-made jacket patterns, one for educational pattern) the moat favorable and comfortable pattern was selected. New experimented jacket pattern was based on it. The findings were as followed. 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industries showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own size systems. 2) Anthropometric measurments of forty males for the subjects of lilting test were agreed to the survey of National Anthropometric of Korean(1997). These were also compatible to the standard size (100-88-175) of investigated industries. 3) Experimental jacket pattern was completed through the three times rectification and it gained higher ratings.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권4호
• /
• pp.31-44
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine introduction and establishment of the police uniform during Japan's early Meiji period, in order to get deeper understanding of the introduction of the modern uniform. The research method included a literature review of laws related to police uniform, which were collected and analyzed. The result shows that the uniform stipulated by Keisi-cho Uniform regulation in 1874 included characteristics of Western uniforms that show the rank of the officers using emblems, such as different cap badges and uniform stripes, while maintaining the same form. Later, the modern uniform system came into form with the addition of a national symbol, building system of formal wear, separating uniforms for different classes, and adding additional uniforms. This illustrates the process of introducing and establishing western-style uniform in the East and can serve as a reference for similar studies.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제4권3호
• /
• pp.254-260
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is to grasp the actual condition toward the clothing of senior males' and perception of male's formal wear companies for silver market through a survey targeting senior males and clothing companies. The survey was conducted targeting 196 senior males and chief-patterners of 7 companies' 10 brands. The questionnaire distributed to senior males was consisted of 22 items regarding the perception and satisfaction on clothes. And 12 items concerning the perception of senior male clothing brands and the size system was developed for clothing companies. The results of the study are as follows. The study revealed that most senior males perceived that brand clothing for them was necessary. More than half of the respondents were not satisfied with ready-made clothes. And many senior males prefer ready-made clothing when they purchase their clothes. For these reasons, senior males apparel market might be promising. Currently, the perception of male's formal wear companies on the need of brand was high. However, considering that brand launching might be difficult to be realized soon I presume that size spectrum based on body size of senior males is necessary which reflect their physical characteristics and activities.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제12권5호
• /
• pp.792-804
• /
• 2004

Sportism is continuously expressed in every season in a different theme and established as a Mega-Trend of the early 21 th century fashion. This study was conducted to research the social and cultural sources of the sportism expressed in the early 21th century fashion. This study focused on hybrid as one of the post-modem phenomena. By analysing social and cultural sources of the sportism, three aspects were found; first, many different fashion trends are coincides in post-modem society, which is possible and accelerated by hybrid each other. Second, the complicated and competitive society urge the people to review the past and the originality. Third, youth-oriented and individualistic lifestyle was brought by the development of the technology and economic surplus. Hybrid of the TPO was analysed which made the sportism mega-trend. 'Formal wear was mixed with casual wear, casual wear with active sportswear, hi-fashion with street fashion, and hi-fashion influenced formal and casual wear again'. The sportism prevalent in 21th century fashion can be explained by this system of hybrid. Results of the analysis in this study can be categorized into four aesthetic values based on hybrid of the styles, which are glamorous sportism, romantic sportism, minimal sportism, and heritage sportism.

• 복식
• /
• 제5권
• /
• pp.173-183
• /
• 1981

In 1895(32nd year of King Ko-Jong), Kyung-moo-chung as westernized police system was established and the uniform of the police developed. Regarding to the Uniform of the Kyung-bu-dai-sin(the Minister Kyung-bu) and to that of the Sun-gum(the low position of the Kyung-bu police), the Kyung-bu costume(Uniform of the police) is divided as Ye-bok(Formal uniform) and Sang-bok(Informal uniform). Ye-bok(Formal uniform) is put on in the case of the law described, and Sang-bok(Informal uniform) is an everyday wear. Ye-bok(Formal uniform) is composed of Ye-mo(hat), Eui(jacket), Go(trousers), Dai(decorative belt), Do(decorative sword), and Hwa(footwear). Sang-bok(Informal uniform) is composed of Sang-mo(hat), Eui(jacket), Go(trousers), and Hwa(footwear). Differences between Sang-bok(Informal uniform) and Ye-bok(Formal uniform) is the materials of the ornament, numbers of the decorative lines. Ye-bok(Formal uniform) has more grandeur[ornament. A historic changes in the Kyung-bu costume(Uniform of the police) during the late of Yi Dynasty was little but the decorative materials and the numbers of the decorative line.

• 복식
• /
• 제58권9호
• /
• pp.1-17
• /
• 2008

One of features of fashion in Joseon period is culture of overlapping of several clothes. This culture appeared with Hapbong(合縫:sewing of several clothes as one) at late Joseon period and developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture. Hapbong is mainly identified at men's official uniform such as Jaebok(祭服), Jobok(朝服), Kwanbok(官福), Gugunbok(具軍服), and women's formal dress such as Wonsam(圓衫) and Dangeui(唐衣) which formed several clothes get to be a set. Such fashion was designed to maintain dignity and power while simple to wear. And It has the trace of overlapping visually on the collar, sleeve, breast-tie and others. Hapbong is attributable to thoughts of practical science, post-toadyism, modernization, renovated the system of clothing, and advanced sewing technique.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제5권4호
• /
• pp.68-79
• /
• 1997

In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.