Mass customization utilizes the new computer technologies, supply chain management, product information management, and some level of customization of the product for the individual customer. This study aimed at grasping the actual conditions of mass customization of domestic men's suit industry and the use of MTM CAD program. The MTM apparel production programs that are used by five leading men's suit manufacturers in Korea were compared. The results of the study showed that most of the manufacturers produced mass customized men's suits to supply extraordinarily large or small size suit based on the individual order. The information listed on an order sheet used at shops was not necessarily corresponding to the information in the MTM CAD program that is use for production of suit ordered from the shop. The pattern data base on the MTM CAD program are constructed based on the sizing system of individual manufacturer. The most manufacturers translated the customer's body dimensions into difference between the standard pattern and the customer's needed adjustment.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of the windsurfing suits and to extract main expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in the style of windsurfing suits. The results of this study are as follows: 1) By a period of activity and its functions of windsurfing suits, they were classified into dry suit, wet suit, semi-dry suit and warm water. 2) Windsurfing suits were assorted into 4 kinds of designs: the design #1 on a suit with long sleeves and long pants, the design #2 on a suit with half sleeves and long pants, the design #3 on a suit with half sleeves and half pants, and the design #4 on sleeveless and half pants. 3) Main expressional words of visual images for windsurfing suits differ greatly depending on the design of windsurfing suits. The visual images for the design #1 are ranked in the order of 'sporty', 'looking like arms that are slim', 'looking like thighs that are slim', 'looking slim', 'neatbbb, 'practical', 'difficult to wear'. The visual images for the design #2 are placed in the order of 'sporty', 'dynamic', 'practical', 'cheerful', 'light'. The visual images for the design #3 are ranked in the order of 'sporty', 'dynamic', 'light', 'cheerful', 'masculine', 'practical'. The visual images for the design #4 are placed in the order of 'sporty', 'dynamic', 'simple', 'light', 'uncomfortable', 'easy to wear', 'looking like arms that are fat'.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.
The purpose of the study is to get some pieces of prior information to eventually develop competitive swimming suit designs with Korean traditional images. The study has been accomplished in following steps. First, as theoretical research, the history of swimming suit design and the requirements in designing competitive swimming suits were studied. Second, as practical research, at first, the trend of the competitive swimming suit designs in the national swimming suit market was examined. And then. the questionnaire surveys of both professional and amateur swimmers about their design preferences with purchasing and fabric-related tendencies were conducted for understanding professionals' characters more exactly. This data were analyzed through cross-analysis and multi-response analysis and x 2 was used. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : First, athletes' preferential design tendency for the swimming suit designs were examined in the aspects of style, color, pattern, logo, and accessary. In style, female athletes preferred an athletic one-piece style and male ones preferred a brief style. In color. neutral, mostly black was preferred most and cold color group like dark blue and navy blue next, regardless of sex. In addition, they preferred similar color coordination. In pattern, though solid fabrics were mostly preferred in both sexes, especially Taeguk motive were considered the most appropriate pattern to show Korean image. Besides, logo was considered importantly, and swimming caps and goggles of accessaries were generally used. Second, athletes' swimming suit purchasing tendency was as a following. the number of swimming suits possessed was more than 4 pieces. the durable period was less than 3 months. and the most important point considered in purchasing was an easy fitting for men and a design with an easy fitting for women. And most of swimming athletes preferred foreign products than domestic ones, which was attributed to excellent quality, easy fitting, and good design. and so on. Third, in fabric-related tendency, food touch, easy fitting. and opaqueness were considered importantly. and durability to chlorine, elasticity, color fastness, easy draining, lightness, and so on were demanded forward.
This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.
The objectives of this study were to investigate the relation between personality(activity, emotional stability, and dominance) and clothing design preferences, and to examine the differences of clothing design preferences according to demographic variables of men. Subjects for the study were 255 male white-collar workers ranging in ages from twenties to fifties, in Seoul and Kwangju City, Korea. The men with higher activity of personality preferred the double jacket with 4 buttons, the combination of light color jacket and dark trousers, glen check pattern jacket, herringbone pattern jacket, light beige color dress shirts. The higher the emotional stability, the higher the preferences on diverse patterns such as fine stripe, plaid, hound\`s-tooth check, and small check pattern. The men with higher dominance preferred dark blue color suit, glen check pattern suit, and necktie of red circle, and disliked the necktie of gray circle. The men in their 20\`s and 30\`s liked the single jacket with 3 buttons, the suit of fine stripe and the necktie of gray circle more among three income groups. The higher the men\`s age and income were, the more they liked the conservative style such as a single jacket with 2 buttons. The men who reside in Seoul liked the suit of gray circle, the jacket and trousers of same color, the patternless jacket, and the patternless suit more than the men in Kwangju. Therefore, the men in methropolitan area preferred conservative clothing image. Fine stripe pattern and patternless materials were preferred when men wore jacket and trousers of same color, while glen check pattern was preferred as the pattern of jacket when jacket and trousers of different color. Male white-collar worker liked single jacket more than double jacket, and preferred the dark blue color suit and necktie, patternless suit, fine stripe suit, and the pale blue dress shirts generally. The present findings provide that the personality of male has influence on the clothing design preferences, and it is possible to infer men\`s personality by their attire.
This study seeks to offer practical suggestions for manufacturing jacket lining patterns through research on menswear brands. A researcher conducted interviews with a survey instrument targeting 12 menswear brands. To analyze the data, descriptive statistics were obtained using SPSS 18.0. The main findings were as follows. First, regarding lining production, most menswear brands were found to provide jacket lining patterns to their subcontractors, and pattern makers were found to design lining patterns based on their own know-how. The most important factor in the production of jacket lining patterns is whether linings are cut more than once during the sewing process. For suit jackets, linings are cut more than once, and for casual jackets, linings are cut once. Second, with regard to jacket production for different jacket styles, most menswear brands were found to use patterns that include seam allowance. Partial linings showed differences in terms of the methods used to sew edges and attach linings to the outer shell. Third, extra space in jacket lining patterns varied according to style. Jacket lining patterns for suit jackets and casual jackets showed differences in extra space in the following areas: the parts that cover the chest(suit jacket linings: 5.6cm, casual jacket linings: 2.4cm), the parts that cover the waist(suit jacket linings: 3.8cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), hem(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), and bicep(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.1cm). However, extra space in the sleeve hems was identical for the two styles(suit jacket linings: 0.1cm, casual jacket linings: 0.1cm). Therefore, this research suggests that clothing manufacturers design linings in accordance with the jacket lining production style.
The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for study of men's suits by investigating the wearing conditions of men's suits. For data collection, a questionnaire was composed of a number of times and the reason of the suit wearing, and a number of suits they posses etc. The subjects of this research were male who aged 20-59 and resided in Seoul and the capital region. The results of the research are summarized as the following : 1. The mean age of suit wearing for the first time is 22.7 years old. The younger began to wear the suits earlier than the older. 2. A number of times of suit wearing for a week is more than 5 days mostly. Being educated higher, the ratio of suit wearing is getting higher. And In the case of job, office men, sales men and men whose job of specialization are wearing suits many a time more than a graduate student and a technician. Most of tne men especially 30's$\sim$40's is wearing the suit as a working garment. 3. Most of men is wearing jacket, dress-shirt and necktie in spring and fall, dress-shirt and necktie in summer, and jacket, vest, dress-shirt and necktie in winter. 4. As a general rule, men have about 2 suits for spring/fall and winter, and about 1 suit for summer. Also male has more than 6 ready-made suits and about 1 custom suit. The last, men almost do not use the suspender with suits.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.45
no.4
/
pp.573-585
/
2021
This paper describes the processes conducted in the analysis and conservation of suit worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961). The suit consists of a jacket and pants and is a typical Mao-style suit for independence activists; it is notable in that it was made of domestic wool. Inside the jacket, there is a machine embroidery of the name "Danju," a label of synthetic resin which reads "Daegu citizen's tailor's shop," and buttons engraved with "PUSAN SIN-HUNG." According to our textile analysis, the outer layer is composed of worsted wool while the lining is made from acetate. Damage to the garment from malodor and insects has been repaired, and the suit has been restored to its original shape by a conservation treatment that has reinforced the textiles. This conservation case can provide valuable research data on the preservation of modern and contemporary clothing. In addition, this study also attempts to estimate the date of suit worn by Yu Rim's production by comparing it with woolen suits produced around the same time and examining the clues associated with the relics. This is significant since it enhances the value of the cultural assets and provides detailed information on the historical transformation of domestic suits.
The Purpose of this study was to identify the constructing factors of female suit image. The questionnaire consisted of 69 words expressing suit image were developed, and six suit slides were selected for stimulus. Sixty-eight female university students majored in clothing and textiles were responded to each sledes, and then factor analysis was conducted. Six factors, such as attractiveness, peculiarity, grace, femininity, youthfullness, and comfort were found out as constructing factors of suit image(total vari-ance 60.5%) by the principal component analysis. The attractiveness factor which explained the largest variance included words such as countrified, refinement, and beautiful. Peculiarity factor included words such as peculiar, bold, complex, and decorative. Grace factor included words such as classic, grace, and elegant. Femininity factor included such as masculine, feminine, soft, and dressy. Youthfullness factor included words such as youth, bright, and charming. And comfort factor included words such as casual, comfort-able, active, and natural. The Cronbach's $\alpha$of the each factors were. 78~92.
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