• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.769-780
• /
• 2004

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the direction of the knit stitch course by the difference in the way of weaving rib stitch, the most elastic stitch of all the knit stitches and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, 2/48's 2, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, l5gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results. From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the l5gf weight sample clothes of 0×0 and 1×1 rib stitches looking similar to plain stitch. For the bust, B/4-1.0㎝ knit pattern was made of 0×0 stitch, B/4-1.2㎝ of 1×1 rib stitch. In conclusion, because rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches, low stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.3
• /
• pp.461-474
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. Research Method of jeans pattern was presented after applying the optimized shrinkage rate. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs, and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $2.5{\sim}5.2cm$, hips circumference was $-1.8{\sim}2.8cm$, thigh circumference was $-1.3{\sim}2.0cm$ and knee circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.7cm$. Also, hem circumference was $-1.0{\sim}1.8cm$ and pants length was $2.9{\sim}6.2cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.