• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.233-240
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• 2011

A fineness range of 150 Nm-170 Nm has recently been applied to produce much finer wool products, so that processing techniques for the wool fabrics have been developed very rapidly. However, the worsted wool-like technique using polyester fiber has not been still implemented in general processing technique. Therefore, this research is to develop materials of side-by-side type with high finess, high shrinkage and stretchability. The mechanical properties of the produced fabrics were analyzed and the fundamental information were obtained for the new worsted wool-like products. The physical properties of a latent crimped yarns of side-by-side type with stretch function are analyzed. Also the mechanical properties of five kinds of fabrics are analyzed, which are produced with non-circular shape(+type) warp yarns of a twist of 1000(T/M) and with two kinds of latent weft yarns of a twist of 1000 T/M and DTY respectively.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.963-973
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• 2008

Clothing pressure is closely connected with the degree of comfort of an athlete's tight-fitting garments. Therefore, the construction of sports garments is very important to the wearer's athletic performance. In this study, the fundamental relationship between the reduction rates of stretch fabrics and clothing pressure was explored with the aim of improving clothing comfort and obtaining a systematic pattern reduction for women's tight-fitting bodysuits. A women's bodysuit pattern was obtained by the draping method using a dressform. The basic pattern was divided into four parts and changed into reduced pattems according to the amount of fabric stretch determined by ASTM D2594. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 20 locations (shoulder, 9 locations; bust, 5; and armhole, 6). Among the 15 garments tested, the mean pressure of the A1 bodysuit was 4.60 $gf/cm^2$, and that of the C5 bodysuit was 22.98 $gf/cm^2$. The mean pressures of the bodysuits with reduction rates of 10% and 20% were below 10 $gf/cm^2$, while those of suits with reduction rates of 30%,40%, and 50% (except C5) were below 20 $gf/cm^2$. The pressure at the shoulder was 9.50$\sim$32.24 $gf/cm^2$, which was higher than that at the bust (3.34$\sim$24.56 $gf/cm^2$) and the armhole (0.95$\sim$12.15 $gf/cm^2$). The mean pressures of the 15 bodysuits were divided into five groups using analysis of variance (ANOVA), and were found to be significantly different (p<0.001). Regression analysis afforded the following expression: mean pressure ($gf/cm^2$) = 1.607 + 0.369[reduction rate (%)].

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.357-362
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• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.609-618
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretch pants and to compare and analyze the pattern making method of pants made of the stretch and non-stretch fabric to develop functional and good looking stretch pants. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study are as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers showed that pants were estimated as the most uncomfortable item among the stretch clothes and when they put the stretch pants on, the most uncomfortable parts of out-shell were the hip girth and rise. Secondly, the result of pattern making method of the pants was as follows. The ease of the stretch pants pattern was 0cm in the waist girth and -1 to -1.5cm in the hip girth more than non-stretch pants. The ease in crotch, inseam and outseam length was 0cm for both.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.165-176
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of various knitted fabrics of sports socks on their properties of hygiene and stability. Seventeen men\`s sports socks to represent five groups with different fiber content, knit structure, yarn fineness, and finishing were used. Properties of hygiene and stability of socks were determined. The results were as follows ; 1. Evaluation of Water, vapor and heat transport properties in socks with varing fiber content showed that cotton 100% socks had the highest drop absorbency, wickability, water absorbency and water retention. Polypropylene 100% socks had an excellent wickability and moisture permeability. Acrylic blend socks had the highest thermal resistance. 2. The greatest knit stretch and knit growth of socks having lower power were found to be with cotton 100% socks had the lowest stretch. Acrylic blend socks had a excellent stretch but low fabric growth, which could give a good fir sensation during wear. 3. The commerical antimicrobial finished socks showed excellent durability after repeated cycles of laundering. 4. Length and width shrinkages were found in all laundered samples during initial cycles due to rearrangement by mechanical relaxation. Shrinkages showed no further changes and reached equilibriums after 5 cycles. Cotton 100% or cotton blend socks showed lower dimensional stability than other socks during fabric care.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.99-113
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• 2021

This study aimed to produce sensors for measuring thigh motor skills. A textile stretch sensor was manufactured using a CNT(Carbon Nano Tube) 0.1 wt% water SWCNT(Single-Walled Carbon Nano Tube) solution, and different designs were applied to increase the sensitivity of the sensor, and different GF(Gauge Factor) values were compared using UTM devices. The same design was applied to fabrics and weaves to observe changes in performance according to fibrous tissue, and the suitability of sensors was determined based on tensile strength, elongation, and the elongation recovery rate. Sensitivity was found to vary depending upon the design. Thus the manufactured sensor was attached to a pair of fitness pants as a prototype, divided into lunge position and squat position testing, and the stretch sensor was used to measure thigh movements. It was shown that stretch sensors used to measure thigh motor skills should have light and flexible features and that elongation recovery rates and tensile strength should be considered together. The manufactured stretch sensor may be applicable to various sports fields that use lower limb muscles, wearable healthcare products, and medical products for measuring athletic ability.

• 한국생활과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.05a
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• pp.163-164
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• 2008

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.7
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• pp.185-200
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fitness using the draft method to develop moderate-stretch knit block pattern for young women in Korea. The subjects were three women within the range of the ages from 18 to 24 showing the average body figures. In this study, 4 different patterns were drafted for the moderate stretch knitted fabrics, that were categorised into two different types. The first type of these was made up for kilted fabrics and the other was initially drafted for woven fabrics and altered for knitted materials afterward. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; 1. According to each sensory evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, knit block patterns A and D were the better than the rest of them. 2. Knit block patterns A and D with higher evaluation scores were drafted with body size measurements except the waist line, whereas patterns B and C with relatively lower scores were produced including the smaller ease amounts than the woven block pattern. 3. To see the results of the functional test based on the designed ten motions for this experiment, knit block patterns A and B were concluded as better than the rest of them. In addition, concerning the arm liking motions, pattern B was scored as the best among the developed patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.652-663
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to the body types to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0cm and W - lcm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+0cm and H-2cm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as fDllows. W+Ocm, H+Ocm for thin body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.3 ∼ 5.0% of waist, 4.8 ∼7.2% of hip for thin body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For thin body type, W+0cm, W - lcm for waist and H+0cm, H-2cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for thin body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.