• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.109-124
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• 2005

The object of this study was to identify the production technique and immediate constituent of lingerie by examining the materials and the sewing techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of lingerie are analyzed based on photographical materials. From the late 20C century to the present time was the research time period. This paper concludes as follows: 1 Decorative method: Lace, Ribbons, piping, elastic bands were some of the decorative materials attached to the garments by zigzag stitch. 2. Flat pattern making: Lingerie patterns were drafted in smaller size than the patterns of outer garments. Bias cut would be applied for the noll-stretchable fabrics. 3. Draping: Bias grain would be applied for the non-stretch fabric. When draping stretch fabrics, follow the grain line of the fabrics and pull the fabric so that it could fit onto the body. 4. Production technique: Straight stitch would be applied for non-stretch fabrics. Zigzag stitch would be applied for stretch fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.185-192
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• 1998

The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.995-1006
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing sensation and satisfaction of high school girls' winter uniform jackets according to the fabrics and the shapes. The fabrics were divided into four parts of stretch and non-stretch woven fabrics. The shapes were divided into two parts of tight and general types. The results were as followings: 1. In the aspect of the appearance evaluation for the uniform jackets, silhouette and length item showed significant differences in fabric and shape. The non-stretch woven fabric and tight type was more satisfying than the stretch fabric and general type because its silhouette and length were shorter and fitter than the stretch one and general type. The jackets of non-stretch woven fabric of tight type were evaluated as the thinnest in the silhouette and were evaluated as the shortest in the length. Conversely, the jackets of stretch woven fabric of general type were evaluated as the thickest and longest. 2. As for the wearing sensation of school uniform jacket, all test items showed significant differences in fabric and shape. The stretch fabric and general type was more satisfying than the non-stretch woven fabric and tight type because the jacket of stretch fabric and general type was felt more comfortable in activities, and wearing. Accordingly, the appearance evaluation for uniforms' jacket is in sharp contrast with that of wearing sensation.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제34권3호
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• pp.123-136
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• 1996

This report deals with the relations between the vibration restraint and the stress-strain properties of the stretch fabrics. For this purpose, a survey was carried out about the preferences in sports-brassiere. Six experimental sports-brassieres of an equal design, but of different materials were tested for vibration using an accelerometer and a motion analyzer while the subject is jogging. 1. The results of the survey on sports-brassiere preferences are as follows; Preferable factors are simple design, shield and close adhesion of sports brassiere. Dissatisfied factors on the sports-brassiere are drooping, vibrating of the breast, itching and wetting. The B-cup-size group perceive the bigger vibration and drooping than A-cup-size. 2. The results of the wearing tests are as follow; This experiment shows the vibration restraint effects on different stretch fabrics, such as hard, medium and soft nature. There was a linear relationship between the vibration restraint and combination of different types of stretch fabrics. Among different brassiere types, the 2-layered brassiere (inner layer of high tension fabric and outer layer of lower stretch fabric) showed the least vibration. In the case of 2-lay brassiere, the wearing comfort rate was highest.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.35-44
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to the processes and quality of local women's apparel production using the stretch fabric and to address the problems related to production in order to provide useful data for producing competitive apparels. The result of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. Results of surveying the process for raw materials and notions indicated that most of the workers were ignorant of the properties of stretch fabrics. And most factories were stacking the stretch fabrics across improperly, while being aware of the properties of the fabrics through their experiences or in-company test. 2. The major problem involving spreading fabrics was the uneven tension, followed by static electricity, overlap and warp twist. The problems involving the cutting work were melting of the fabric by cutter and difference of size between upper and lower parts. 3. Most of the businesses were not tempering the fabric before and after its linking works due to lack of working space, short delivery time, ignorance and etc. The majority of the sample businesses were operating their cutters at the speed of 3,000 rpm or higher, which suggests a poor technological guidance.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.312-322
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• 2019

The mechanical properties of developed fabrics which were composed of soluble yarns and stretch fibers were analyzed using the Kawabata Evaluation System. The following findings were obtained from this investigation. Fabrics woven with lightweight yarns can be easily deformed by external forces. But when the fabric were woven using thick lightweight yarns reduced the slippage between the fibers, which makes it difficult to deform due to external force, thereby maintaining a certain space from the human body. As for the weight of the fabric per unit thickness, it was found that fabrics were compose of lightweight spun yarn was lightweight relatively. Lightweight yarns were more flexible than regular yarns because of the reduced bending and shear properties that greatly affect the lattice pattern. smoother, more flexible, and the better the bend was recovered. As fabrics increased content of using of lightweight spun yarn was increased flexible and smooth, and bending recovery.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.31-38
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• 2006

Silk fabrics are very popular and widely used because of their elegant appearance. However, silk fabrics generally have easy wrinkle, and do not stretch and deform permanently after machine washing. Then the stretched properties of silk fabrics are important for the application of industrial textile materials such as formal and sports wear. Thus, this research surveys the covering, weaving and degumming conditions for stretched silk fabrics. As a result, yarn breaking stress was reduced with increasing spindle speed, and the yarn twists were optimized under the covering condition of polyurethane/silk with PVA pretreatment. In addition, the shrinkage of the silk fabrics treated with star degumming process was reduced by continuous NaOH degumming process. The fabrics showed the fabric physical properties with optimum stretched properties and evenness surfaces.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권10호
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• pp.153-171
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop a system by which the tensile properties of knitted fabrics can be applied. In this study, 3 different conditions of tensile property were tested on 8 sample fabrics with various stitches and stretch ranges. The subjects were five women of age from 18 to 24 years showing average body figures. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows: The tensile properly of 12gf/cm was considered as appropriate for applying into the pattern alteration in the case of moderate stretch(course, $25\~35\%$) or over samples. However, for the stable stretch(course, under $20\%$) fabrics, such as Milano rib stitch, a tensile properly of 20gf/cm was regarded as more valid.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.645-654
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• 2021

This study aimed to visually compare the implementation of digital virtual fabrics for stretch fabrics mainly used in clothing that closely touch the body, using CLO. A digital fabric was used in CLO after measuring the weight, thickness, bending, and tensile force of five adhering clothing fabrics using a CLO fabric kit. The visual similarity of draftability was compared by measuring the area of the bending angle and the shape of the wrinkles of the real and digital fabric. A comparison of the bending angles showed that Fabric A was -0.75° and Fabric D was -2.5°, showing slightly lower drape properties than the real fabric. Meanwhile, Fabric B was 2.75°, Fabric C was 2.13°, and Fabric E was 1.375°, showing slightly higher drape properties in the vertical direction than the real fabric. Comparing the widths of the drape shapes, Fabric A was 0.77%, Fabric B was 1.27%, Fabric C was 0.06%, and Fabric E was 1.48%, which showed a slight difference. Fabric D showed a difference of 3.17% and was implemented where the digital fabric spread a little wider. As a result, the stretch fabric was visually expressed similarly to the real fabric as a whole in CLO. For 3D virtual clothing technology to be used widely in the close clothing industry in the future, more research on real clothing is needed.