• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.197-204
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• 2000

With the current of the end of a century and social, economic, political, and cultural turbulence, people take advantage of the various ways to express their stagnation. This study introduces the term representativity and it will explain the men's fashion of the end of a century. On a theoretical basis, the concept of the representativity, image, symbol and imitation which are used as a tool for expression will be examined, and together with this, inner representation and outer representation will be categorized. The inner representation of the men's fashion in the end of a century can be taken for the purpose of connecting the image of masculinity. The image of masculinity is widely spread owing to the mass communication of a consumption-oriented society, so its hard to define that image as one thing specific. Hence, in order to discuss the male gender and mens fashion, New Man phenomenon should be noticed of. 1980's New Man influence has lasted till now. New Man images were largely categorized into two images like New Lad and Iron John after the mid 1990's. Therefore, the image of masculinity is largely classified New lad, who desires success and pursues the hedonistic life style and Iron John, who enjoys thrill and follows economical life style. The image of masculinity has influence on the outer representation how it is imitated and symbolized via many designer's works and street fashion. Two masculinity images are dominant over the men's fashion of the end of a century. One is inhumane and rational corporate power look that stems from symbolization and imitation of New Lad. The other is outdoor casual that originated from the symbolization and imitation of Iron John.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.363-381
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• 1998

Food goods traded between Korea and Japan during the middle period of the Cho Sun era included Insam (Jinseng), rice, beans, honey, perilla oil, starch, adlay, walnuts, pine nuts, jujubes, hazelnuts, and dired chestnuts as exports ; and pepper as imports. The number of Japanese envoies that visited regularly was one thousand five hundred people a year. The receptions that were held for them during the middle period equaled those of the first term of the Cho Sun era, but these receptions were only held in Pu-san. The expense of daily meals was broken down into 8 grades ranging from \129,300 to 2133. The daily meals included Jo-ban (breakfast), Jo-seok-ban (breakfast and dinner), and Ju-jeom-shim (lunch) for the Japanese who visited regularly. During the course of a year, the total amount spent on daily meals was put at a billion won. The banquet style meals included Ha-seon-da-rye (a welcome tea party), Ha-seon-yeon (a welcome banquet), No-cha-yeon (a banquet that was held on the street), and Ye-dan-da-rye (a drink banquet that was held when silk was offered as a gift). It also included Byeol-yeon (a banquet out of the dordinary), Sang-seon-yeon (a farewell banquet), and Myong-il-yeon (a banquet that was held on a national holiday). The banquet style meals were composed of Ceon-tack (to set a table for dinner), Sang-hwa (a flower that was put on the food), Kwan-hwa (to offer a flower when a banquet was held), Ju-9-jan (the ninth wine glass), Dae-seon (meat), music, and Jung-bae-rye (a banquet that was held again after a banquet). The Cho Sun government held banquets forty five times for the Japanese, the food expense for the banquets was put at two hundred and thirty million won.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.51-74
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W. The specific questions of this research are as follows: what are the important design features of the Dries Van Noten's Mixed collections from 1985 S/S to 1991 F/W? What are 'the roots of inspiration' of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How can the roots of inspiration be categorized and what are its features? How did these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a reference of how ideas turn to practical works, and what the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing the content. To conclude, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections can be classified into nine categories: 'Interpretation', 'Ethnic', 'Multiple Contents', 'Subculture', 'Region', 'Artist', 'Fashion Item', 'Sports', and 'New Trend'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, England, Italy, French chic, inquiry of ethnic, artist, sports, the neuter gender image, 1950's, 1960's & 1970's trend & style of street fashion, elegance for men, romanticism, zoot, rock 'n' roll, teddy boy, mods, punk, new romantic and 19th century's Anglo-Saxon style are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identity of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections are cross culture contents and harmony of the old generation and new generation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to identify current trends in hip-hop fashion in korea and how they are influenced by musical characteristics of female hip-hop. This study considers the relationship between female hip-hop music and their fashion through the history of hip-hop. Data has been collected and analyzed from broadcastings, performances, music videos, and album jackets of female musicians who appeared in the cable television program 'Unpretty Rapstar' by MNET during two seasons in 2015. "Unpretty Rapstar" is the first program to focus on the music and fashion of female Korean hip-hop musicians. For the theoretical review, this article examines books and journal articles, which provide insight into the history and formation of hip-hop. It also analyzes the hip-hop styles of female musicians in Korea through Hiphopplaya.com, an Internet site specializing in hip-hop. the results of the analysis of the fashion of female Korean hip hop musicians is as follows: The characteristics of the styles of female hip-hop artists come out of Glam Style, which emphasizes femininity, but is also composed of a practical and dynamic street casual style. Most of the clothes are skinny jeans and sweat suits with vertical and slim-fit silhouettes or stadium jackets and jersey jackets with oversized silhouettes. The main colors of these outfits are prominently yellow and red with darker grayish tones, but also include natural achromatic colors.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.1-18
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.77-92
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to investigate the public perception of Gorpcore through Big Aata analytics. The study was conducted based on the collection of Big Data on the word 'Gorpcore' through Textom from July 24, 2017 to March 31, 2023. As a result, 63,386 words were collected from a total of 18,879 posts, and the top 50 words were determined based on frequency of appearance. Based on the collected words, centrality measures and CONCOR algorithm were performed in Ucinet 6. The research results are as follows. 1) The frequency of appearance was high in the order of 'Gorpcore look', 'fashion', 'coordination', 'clothes', 'outdoor', 'Musinsa', 'look', 'trend', 'brand' and 'ahjussi (middle-aged old man in Korean)'. These words had high TF-IDF scores, which leads to the conclusion that these are key words that are recognized as important. 2) Network centrality shows that 'Gorpcore look', 'fashion', 'outdoor', 'coordination', 'clothes', 'trend', 'look' and 'style' have a high correlation with other words. Through this, it was found that the public thinks it is important to create a variety of fashions by styling high-performance outdoor wear and casual wear, and that they are highly interested in clothes and in brands leading the Gorpcore trend. 3) As a result of the CONCOR algorithm, four significant groups were formed. The words that appear in each group are as follows. Group 1 - 'outdoor', 'Gorp', 'Normcore', 'hiking', 'functionality', 'new', 'sports', 'casual wear', 'activity', 'generation', 'collaboration'. Group 2 - 'fashion', 'trend', 'look', 'brand', 'style', 'shoes', 'ugly', 'item', 'trend', 'product', 'Salomon', 'padded jacket', 'stylishness', 'utilization', 'Winter', 'street', 'design', 'retro', 'popular', 'styling'. Group 3 - 'Gorpcore look', 'coordination', 'Musinsa', 'windbreaker', 'recommendation', 'Arcteryx', 'pants', 'man'. Group 4 - 'clothes' 'ahjussi', 'jacket', 'launching', 'spring', 'The North Face', 'collection', 'utility', 'jumper'. As a result, it can be seen that the Gorpcore is also regarded as a part of outdoor, fashion, coordination, and casual wear.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.130-141
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• 2012

본 연구는 부산 상해거리의 상점 전면부 경관 요소의 유형과 중국 전통 경관이미지의 재현 수법을 고찰한 것이다. 연구범위는 상해거리의 화교소유 건물을 대상으로 한 건물전면부의 경관적 특징과 상호명, 그리고 가로환경 조형물을 대상으로 하였다. 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 건물 전면부의 경관적 특징을 유형적으로 고찰한 결과를 보면, 건물의 파사드 디자인 형태는 한자간판 강조형, 걸게간판 부가형, 전통문양 부착형, 전통건축이미지 차용형, 현대건축 양식형 등의 5가지 유형으로 분류되었다. 간판 디자인에 있어서는 색의 경우 글자색은 황색계열, 백색계열배경색은 적색계열이 가장 많이 나타났다. 그리고 글자체는 모두 번체로 나타났다. 둘째, 상호명은 크게 작명 방법과 상호명의 의미로 살펴보았다. 작명 방법은 의미와 장소의 결합, 계절과 분위기의 결합, 명소 명물 세 가지로 구분되었다. 의미와 장소의 결합 명명법은 차이나타운 형성 초기부터 사용한 수법이고, 계절과 분위기의 결합 명명법은 1970년대부터 사용하였으며, 명소 명물 명명법은 상해거리 조성 이후부터 사용한 수법으로 나타났다. 상호명 의미로 살펴 볼 때 가게 번영 염원형, 풍류형, 현지 지명 지물 차용형으로 구분되었다. 셋째, 상해거리에 도입된 가로환경조형물의 이미지는 중국의 남방문화 양식에 한정하지 않고 중국의 북방문화양식과 한국적 양식이 혼재되어 나타나는 것으로 파악되었다. 넷째, 상해 거리에 나타난 중국 전통 경관 이미지 재현 수법은 부가, 치환, 병치로 분류하였다. 부가라는 경관이미지 재현 수법은 기존의 형태에 다른 형태가 평면적으로 확장되어서 더해지거나 포함되어 전과는 다른 형태를 만드는 것을 가리키며, 면 대 면의 확장과 면 대 면의 중첩이 관찰되었다. 어떤 유형의 형상을 다른 형상으로 바꾸는 것을 치환이라고 하였고, 치환에는 국부적인 것과 일차적인 것, 일련의 순차에 따라 행하는 순차적 치환이 있다. 병치는 공간적으로나 형태적으로 이전과는 다른 형식으로 배치되는 것을 가리킨다. 병치에는 동종병치, 이종병치, 이위병치가 관찰되었다. 본 연구는 차이나타운의 경관디자인 수법을 분석하기 위한 기초 연구이다. 그러나 본 연구는 부산의 상해거리에 한정하여 분석한 한계를 지닌다. 향후 다른 인천, 전주 등 다른 도시에 형성되어 있는 차이나타운을 대상으로 한 추가 연구가 필요할 것으로 사료된다. 이러한 연구는 최근 지자체에서 활발히 진행되고 있는 차이나타운 특구 개발 사업에 있어서 경관계획 부문의 기초자료로써 활용 가능할 것으로 기대한다.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.89-105
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• 2014

This study researched the changes in everyday wear in China since the mid-20th century. The study was conducted by interviewing 13 Chinese persons who were familiar with the public awareness and donning practices of the Chinese from 1949 to now, and the results were analyzed through categorical analysis and subject analysis. First of all, due to the influences of Zhongshan-zhuang, Liening-zhuang and Bulaji, political characteristics were represented the most during the reconstruction time, and during this time, Jieyueling also became famous. Second, during the period of the Cultural Revolution, the government used many mechanisms to control people's thought, so Junfu/Junbianfu and sailor shirt were the most common clothing. Third, information from the West began to enter the Chinese market and it started to influence and change the Chinese thinking. Suit, bat wing sleeves, colorful skirt, flares and jeans became more and more popular in the reform and open times. Fourth, during the personality expression time, people not only copied fashion icons' styles, but also created new styles like sexy, cute, ethnic, K-pop, street, and DIY style, in order to show their personality. Finally, during these 60 years, the changes of Chinese everyday wear were characterized by de-politicization, ready-made, diversification and individualization.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2014

Leggings are recognized as unique fashion items that meet the needs of customers to express individuality due to their protective and thermal functions. They are highly practical fashion items that show a casual, street and sportive style with a noted influence on outdoor leisure fields. This study analyzes the sociocultural background for the spread of leggings as well as their design characteristics, coordination characteristics and authentic characteristics. The formative characteristics of modern legging designs are as follows. First, the shapes of modern leggings are ankle-length, calflength, above-knee, knee-length, stirrup and top of the foot-length. Leggings are transformed in many ways: length-expansion, side-slit, unbalanced length, variations of straps, cut-out, trimmings, pattern transformation and complex form. Second, modern leggings contain achromatic colors in modern and sensual image, vivid colors in sportive image and metallic colors futuristic and technical image. Third, leggings patterns value originality, uniqueness and rarity as shown by printed geometric patterns, hand crafted geometric and natural patterns, and abstract patterns expressed through various materials and themes. Fourth, modern leggings' textures are categorized into erotic, simply-functional, seasonless, glossy, and metallic. Functional and fashionable leggings reflect the psychological needs of modern society. This study suggests a direction for the development of legging designs and provides a theoretical database for higher value-added leggings business.