• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.42-54
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• 2009

The purpose of the study was to grasp problems through a basic survey of actual conditions of the Korean traditional costume industry and to grope a plan to settle the problems. The results were as follows. Operating Status: Rates of the companies' establishment were reduced in 2000s and their sales were also reduced. Status of Goods Development: Korean traditional costume manufacturers and Korean traditional costume textile fabric companies had the highest rate in non-trademark production. Korean traditional costume textile fabric companies and Korean traditional costume rental companies had high rate in self-design. However, Korean traditional costume manufacturers used textile companies' catalogue with the highest rate. Status of Demand and Supply in Human Resources: In human resources needing most, Korean traditional costume manufacturers were tailors, Korean traditional costume textile fBbric companies were salespersons and Korean traditional costume rental companies were designers. Status of Management and Marketing: Causes of difficulties in management were the market slump and the spreading of products made in China. They had a direct publicity through people around mainly. Therefore, it was urgently necessary to introduce special marketing methods. In an investment plan within three years in the future, about 70% did not have an investment plan. Opinions for Promotion of Korean traditional costume: In the government's support policy they wanted, construction of social atmosphere for Korean traditional costume-wearing and Korean traditional costume related educational support had the highest rate. Most of the companies answered that specialized Korean traditional costume agencies were necessary.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.14-37
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• 1999

This study concerns the role of costume in Shakespearean comedy from the viewpoint of the role theory. The term “role” has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role. The term ‘role’ had been borrowed from the drama. The similarity between the role on the stage and the role of the social man had been recognized. The typical examples in which the costume help to make access to a specific role and can be effectively exploited for the performance of the role are manifested in the comedies of Shakespeare. Thus, our goal in this study is to analyze the role of costume which appears in Shakespearean comedy from the viewpoint of the role theory. The role of social status and position reflects sex, age, occupation, class, economic position of the characters. In his works, the crown and the mace represented not only the throne but also a previllege and supreme position. The situation role of costume could be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the characters on the stage. The disguise role hided one\`s status, thereby makes possible acting other\`s position. And the disguise role can bring about the change of status, age, sex, occupation, and atmosphere. The costume also could symbolize the social status, position, rank, occupation, and the situation, and functioned as a media for delivering messages to others. The costume performed the role of the physical and psychic protection, and provided its wearer with consolation and peaceful mind. The costume reflected the costume of a society through its wearing condition and wearing configuration. The results obtained from this study can provide useful cues for understanding the role action in the social structure. This kind of understanding reveals the costume phenomena in real life, allows one to perform roles properly and efficiently, and opens our insight on the overall aspects of the costume culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.436-447
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• 1993

This study concerns the role of costume in Shakespearean tragedy from the viewpoint of the role theory. The term "role" has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the Costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role. The role of social status and position reflects sex, age, occupation, class, economic position of the characters. In his works, the crown and the mace represented not only the throne but also a previllege and supreme position. The sitution role of costume could be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the characters on the stage. The disguise role hided one's status, thereby makes possible acting others position. And the disguise role can bring about the change of status, age, sex, occupation, and atmosphere. The costume could be used as a voucher of love. The costume performed the role of the physical and psychic protection, and provided its wearer with consolation and peaceful mind. The costume reflected the custom of a society through its wearing condition and wearing configuration. The results obtained from this study can provide useful cues for understanding the role action in the social structure. This kind of understanding reveals the costume phenomena in real life, allows one to perform roles properly and efficiently, and opens our insight on the overall aspects of the costume culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.1-18
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• 1999

This study concerns the role of costume in Shakespeare\`s history plays from the viewpoint of the role theory. The term “role” has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role. The term ‘role’ had been borrowed from the drama. The similarity between the role on the stage and the role of the social man had been recognized. The similarity between the role on the stage and the role of the social man had been recognized. The typical examples in which the costume help to make access to a specific role and can be effectively exploited for the performance of the role are manifested in the history plays of Shakespeare. Thus, our goal in this study is to analyze the role of costume which appears in Shakespeare\`s history plays from the viewpoint of the role theory. The role of social status and position reflects sex, age, occupation, class, economic position of the characters. In his works, the crown and the mace represented not only the throne but also a previllege and supreme position. The situation role of costume could be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the characters on the stage. The disguise role hided one\`s status, thereby makes possible acting other\`s position. The costume also could symbolize the social status, position, rank, occupation, and the situation, and functioned as a media fo delivering messages to others. The costume performed the role of the physical and psychic protection, and provided its wearer with consolation and peaceful mind. The costume reflected the custom of a society through its wearing configuration. The costume (or a uniform) adopted by a group notified the characteristics and the expectation of action of the group to others. The results obtained from this study can provide useful cues for understanding the role action in the social structure. This kind of understanding reveals the costume phenomena in real life, allows one to perform roles properly and efficiently, and opens our insight on the overall aspects of the costume culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.209-216
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• 1990

As was defined by Sarbin, the term "role" has been used to represent the behavior expected of the occupant of a given position or status. A specific role can not be successfully performed without the aid of the costumes. Costumes are adopted in relation with a specific role, and the change of role brings about the change of costumes, and the change of costumes makes influence on the wearers. The typical cases in which the costume help to make access to a specific role and can be. effectively exploited for role change are manifested in the plays of Shakespear. Thus, our goal in this article is to analyze the role of costume which appears in the plays of Shakespear. There, the disguise in costume brings about the change of action of the characters on the stage, the drama reveals the role of costume obviously. The roles of costume appeared most frequently are the disguise role and the situation role. The disguise role hides one's status, thereby makes possible acting other's position. And the disguise role can bring about the change of sex, age, occupation, status, atmosphere. The situation role of costume can be widely used for visualizing the psychological situation and external environments of the person on the stage. The suitable wearing of costume has functions of performing roles effectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.221-232
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• 1993

This study analyzes the symbolism of costume in the genre paintings of Yoon Bok Shin, the great artist of Korea in eighteenth century, based on the symbolic interaction theory. We classify the symbolic character into tow categories, the symbolism of social status and position as a social factor, and erotic symbol as a sexual factor. The symbolism of the social status and position include the sex, age, class, occupation, and diginity. From the costume In the paintings, the symbolic character of the clothing in the social and sexual contexts can be visualized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.85-98
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• 2005

This Study is to analyze characteristics of costume change of according to the status of character succeeding the investigation of the ceremonial costume change in historical TV dramas that The Empress Myungsung entered. For this study, the costume images among historical TV dramas, that Myungsung entered, '500 years of Chosun Dynastyv, Taewongun(1990, MBC)', 'The Glorious Dawn(1993, KBS1)', 'The Empress Myungsung(2001, KBS2)'were used: The characteristics of the costume change of main character are as follows. First, main character's costume has been increase gradually in number and item. Second, Especially in the last work,'The Empress Myungsung', the royal costume based on historical evidence in aspects of silhouette, but it didn't according to the historical costume in aspects of color and textile. Nevertheless the costume reveals the status of each person significantly. Third, the costumes of the recent historical drama appears as a optical symbol that represents historical view point and different interpretation of each drama. Therefore the costume according to the status of the character wrong from the historical point of view. Consequently, TV costume in historical drama Myungsung entered has been focused on the beauty of the screen and dramatic effect than historical viewpoint. So the costume have been to be an essential visual part by means of the symbol revealed the purpose.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.147-164
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• 2000

This thesis examines the origin, the change and the symbolic meanings of class representation, and offers a comparative study on the differences of class representation in the history of Korean and western costume on the basis of class representation methods and types shown from ancient times to 18C. In both eastern and western costume, the differences in status are commonly represented in the width and length of costume, color, textile, ornamental design, wearing, decoration, etc. The costume of noble class was wide and long, while that of common class was narrow and short so that it could be convenient for them to move around. Especially, from 16C to 18C in the west the costume of noble class was expanded to the extent that it was inconvenient for them to move around not only by skirt swelling by using hoop, but also by pad, ruff, lace, etc. This appears to show that they are not working class. Wearing and decoration of noble class were much more colorful, complicated and varied, while those of common class were simple and plain. In the west, the wearing of chiton and toga in Greece and Rome was different depending on social status. More specific look at the differences in class representation shown in the eastern and western costume reveals that the higher the rank, the more the women in both Gothic and Chosun period covered the body, thereby representing rank. In 18C, the women in both Rococo and Chosun period commonly showed excessive decoration and lavishness on their hair, and in this period the width of skirt was also commonly expanded to the longest extent, with a slight difference put aside.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.183-199
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• 1995

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.185-199
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• 1995

Among many different approches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by in-cluding political, militarial, economical, cul-tural, and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes accord-ing to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations in variety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physi-cal activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed its role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Baseed on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving. Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating with feathers. Jowoguan is one of the exemples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect, this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however means and womens wear were claryly dis-tinguished. Unlike other clothes that were re-stricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume. Monks wore black cloth-ing that was influenced from China and the Western Regions. To emphasize their religious power. Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of five and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.