• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.80-96
• /
• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.11
• /
• pp.1516-1523
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study were to analyze the effect of weft knit structural characteristics on the subjective texture and sensibility. For this, the material was knitted into 8 kinds of weft plain knit fabrics with four kinds of fiber components such as wool, acryl, rayon, and nylon, 3 steps of densities and 3 steps of twist numbers to ply two yarns. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA and multidimensional scaling. From factor analysis, subjective textures were categorized as 'bulk/resilience', 'surface/density' and 'soft/drape', and subjective sensibilities were categorized as 'natural/comfortable', 'feminine/elegance' and 'stable/neat' Among the knit structural characteristics, the component of fibers and the density of fabrics were the important factors to give variations in texture and sensibility : In comparison with wool knit of medium density, the knit fabrics of other components and different densities each showed a unique texture and sensibility. But twist number to ply two yams had a few influence on subjective properties. As a result of MDS analysis, the texture and sensibility of plain weft knit fabrics was classified as 'thin-full', 'hard-soft', 'young-old' and 'warm-cool'.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.35-50
• /
• 2007

We performed the subjective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics used for S/S among fabrics as basis, five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yarns made by different twisting methods then, we did questionnaire survey targeting sixty females in the expert groups. Utilizing SPSS 12.0, correlation, ANOVA, Duncan, and Multidimensional Standard way were analyzed. The results are as following. First, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sense factor, in the 'drape sense', the acrylic/rayon blended knit was preferred as the most flexible, pliable, and elastic knit; in weight/bulk factor, the acrylic filament knit the most twisted was preferred as the least bulk, thin, cool and transparent knit; in 'surface depression sense' factor, A(F)W acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most haggard, straight, dry knit. Second, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sensibility factor, in the 'neatness' the acrylic filament hit was preferred as the most clean, neat and delightful knit; in the 'comfortableness', the acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most natural, stable, and comfortable knit. Third, according to the result of evaluating on preferred knits as the spring and summer, generally the acrylic filament twisted yarn knits were more preferred than the acrylic blended yarns. However the preference on the kinds of the acrylic twisted filament yarn showed that there is a little difference on the acrylic blended yarn knit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.8 s.145
• /
• pp.1158-1167
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.42 no.10 s.200
• /
• pp.153-171
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop a system by which the tensile properties of knitted fabrics can be applied. In this study, 3 different conditions of tensile property were tested on 8 sample fabrics with various stitches and stretch ranges. The subjects were five women of age from 18 to 24 years showing average body figures. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows: The tensile properly of 12gf/cm was considered as appropriate for applying into the pattern alteration in the case of moderate stretch(course, $25\~35\%$) or over samples. However, for the stable stretch(course, under $20\%$) fabrics, such as Milano rib stitch, a tensile properly of 20gf/cm was regarded as more valid.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.203-212
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective perception of textures, sensibilities, and preference among consumers. This study, then, aimed to provide useful information with respect to planning and designing knitted fabrics by predicting the subjective characteristics analyzed according to their structural properties. For this purpose, we employed statistical analysis tools, such as factor and regression analysis and an adaptive-network-based fuzzy inference system(ANFIS), thereby combining the merits of fuzzy and neural networks and presupposing a non-linear relationship. Through factor analysis, we also categorized the subjective textures into 'roughness', 'softness', 'bulkiness' and 'stretch-ability' with R2=70.32%: and categorized the sensibilities into 'Stable/Neat', 'Natural/Comfortable' and 'Feminine/Elegant' with R2=68.12%. We analyzed subjective textures, sensibilities, and preference with ANFIS, assuming non-linear relationships; consequently, we were able to generate three or four fuzzy rules using wool/rayon fiber content and loop length as input data. The textures of roughness and softness exhibited a linear relationship, but other subjective characteristics demonstrated a non-linear input-output relationship. Compared with linear regression analysis, the ANFIS exhibited had higher predictive power with respect to predicting subjective characteristics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.2 no.4
• /
• pp.93-101
• /
• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.