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A Study on the Late 19th Century Basic Costumes and Games based on Genre Paintings by Kisan Junkeun Kim - Referred from the book 「Korean Games」 - (기산 김준근 풍속화에 나타난 19세기말 일반복식과 놀이문화에 관한 연구 - 「한국의 놀이」 삽화를 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Eunjoo
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.14 no.5
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    • pp.766-777
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    • 2012
  • The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

A Change of fashin IIIustration by the Ideal Type of Human Body Beauty (인체미의 이상형에 따른 패션 일러스트레이션의 변화)

  • 전경숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.28
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    • pp.65-84
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

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A Study on Kindergarten Uniforms in Changwon, South Gyeongsang Province (경남 창원 지역의 유치원복 착용 실태와 치수체계에 관한 연구)

  • Kim Sun-Hee;Kim Yeo-Sook
    • The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.15-28
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    • 2006
  • This study is on the kindergarten uniforms in Changwon, south Gyeongsang province. The first part of this research is on whether or not students should wear uniforms and how often they should wear uniforms. The research also deals with what types of uniforms are required, how much they should cost and their size. Fifty one preschools including kindergarten and nursery were targeted for this research. The second part of the research is on the discrepancy of the labeled size and the actual size of the child. The results of the first part are as follows: A total of 46 out of 51 places adopted uniforms for their children. Sports wear style is the most popular for spring, fall and summer uniforms. For wearing frequency of kindergarten uniforms, 26 (61%) places allowed the students to wear uniforms for special events such as picnics or observation trips 17(34%) places had the students wear their uniforms on a daily basis and 2 3 times only wearing a week.'rho preschool children interviewed for this study were from 2 to 5 in lull age. However, sizes with high frequency rates were 9 to 11 and the supplied sizes of uniforms were from 5 to 17. The results of the second part are as follows: The bust girth and the shoulder width of upper garments of uniforms are bigger than children's physical size, while clothes length and sleeve length are relatively shorter. Also the bust girth of upper garments of uniforms differs in the size depending on each preschool. The waist girth and the total length of lower garments of uniforms are made smaller than children's physical sizes, while hip girth is relatively larger. In the case of lower garments, the rest parts of cloth length are smaller than upper garments of uniforms. Also, the waist girth and hip width of uniforms are smaller than those of lower garments In summer garments, while thigh width is similar in both cases. The waist width is made too small. Described in the above excluding the waist width, the rest parts are relatively larger than children's physical sizes, but shorter in the length. Due to the length, children at age 7 may wear uniforms in the level of 17. Since summer uniforms touch the students' bare skin, the rest parts excluding clothes length are shorter than these of the spring and fall uniforms. In the case of clothes length, it seems to be due to different designs. The waist width of lower garments in all the uniforms tested in this study is too small for children, requiring them to be made in a larger size.

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Study of Temperature Compensation method in Mini-Cones (소형 콘의 온도보상 기법 연구)

  • Yoon, Hyung-Koo;Jung, Soon-Hyuck;Cho, Se-Hyun;Lee, Jong-Sub
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.31 no.1C
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    • pp.29-38
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    • 2011
  • The smaller diameter cone penetrometer has been widely used to estimate the characteristics of local area due to high vertical resolution. The half-bridge cirucits have been adopted to measure the mechnical strength of soil through the smaller diameter cone penetrometer due to the limitation of the areas for configuring the full-bridge circuit. The half-bridge circuit, however, is known as being easily affected to the temperature variation. The objective of this study suggests the temperature-compensated method in mini-cones. The diameter and length of the mini-cone is designed to 15mm and 56mm. The load cell of the mini-cone is extended about 54mm on the behind of the mini-cone to reflect the only temperature variation. The full-bridge circuit is installed to measure the temperature-compensated values in the mini-cone and the half-bridge circuit is also organized to compare the temperature compensated values with uncompensated values. The seasonal variation tests are performed to define the effect of temperature variation under summer and winter temperature condition. The densification tests are also carried out to investigate temperature effects during penetration. The measured mechanical resistances with temperature-compensated method show more reliable and reasonable values than those measured by thermal uncompensated system. This study suggests that the temperature-compensated method of the mini-cone may be a useful technique to obtain the more reliable resistances with minimizing the temperature effect.

A Study on Women's Wear Manufacturing Industries (II) - Automation of the Facilities and Ratio of Impaired goods - (숙녀복(淑女服) 봉제업계(縫製業界) 실태(實態) 연구(硏究) (II) - 생산설비(生産設備) 자동화(自動化)와 생산제품(生産製品) 불량수준(不良水準) -)

  • Uh, Mi-Kyung;Sohn, Hee-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.46-54
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to understand women's wear manufacturing industries. First, the study was to investigate the present production systems and how much the automatic facility are by comparing them. This study enhanced more efficient, stable, and suitable work line. This intern will direct the way in which automatic facilities will be created. Second, through this study on the general character of the inspectors, the ratio of impaired goods, and the reasons for unsatisfactory goods, I intended to find out a way to decrease the impaired goods and to produce competitive and high quality goods. The results of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. The result of the research on the automatic industrial facilities shows that the majority of the factories (77.4%) are 40% below the automatic facility rate. The reasons for this according to order are that was a deficit in money, no reason for expensive machines, and lack of the technique and the number of workers required to handle the machines. 2. At this time, the most required equipments are shown according to its importance; automatic sewing machine, automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine, and finishing & pressing machine. So in the women's wear manufacturing industries, they think that they need more automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine in the cutting field rather than high price automatic machine in the sewing field such as pattern former, pocket welting, automatic sleeve connecting machine and automatic label connecting machine. 3. The result of the research in the goods quality shows that the average impaired rate is 12.7% at the first inspection. In addition the average rate for complete impaired rate is 1.52%. The line system shows that it has a impaired rate that is double the rate of the pair system. Because of this, the industries plan to combine the line system and pair system to create an improved and suitable production system which can boost the quality and productivity of the goods. 4. The fabric is the main point of the impaired goods. The factors of the impaired goods in manufacturing are the lack of mental abilities of the worker, impaired fabrics and a lack of cooperation in the working system. Furthermore, there is a lack of technique for new material. 5. To prohibit impaired goods in manufacturing, there need to be a way to educate the workers and to enhance the workers' mind on the productive goods. Also there need to increase in the investments of automatic production machines. Finally there need to be a standardized working line. Therefore, there need to be an improvement on the management of the production of goods, the development of technique and an increase in the education for the workers, with this there will be a decrease in impaired goods, and an increase in better quality of goods to enforce the domestic apparel industries.

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Patterns of Mediastinal Lymph Nodes Metastasis in Non-small Cell Lung Cancer according to the Primary Cancer Location (원발성 비소세포성 폐암의 폐엽에 따른 종격동 림프절 전이 양상)

  • Lee, Kyo-Sean;Song, Sang-Yun;Ryu, Sang-Woo;Na, Kook-Ju
    • Journal of Chest Surgery
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    • v.41 no.1
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    • pp.68-73
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    • 2008
  • Background: The presence of infiltrated mediastinal lymph nodes is a crucial factor for the prognosis of lung cancer. The aim of our study is to investigate the pattern of metastatic non-small cell lung cancer that spreads to the mediastinal lymph nodes, in relation to the primary tumor site, in patients who underwent major lung resection with complete mediastinal lymph node dissection. Material and Method: We retrospectively. studies 293 consecutive patients [mean age $63.0{\pm}8.3$ years (range $37{\sim}88$) and 220 males (75.1%)] who underwent major lung resection due to non-small cell lung cancer from January 1998 to December 2005. The primary tumor and lymph node status was classified according to the international TNM staging system reported by Mountain. The histologic type of the tumors was determined according to the WHO classification. Fisher's exact test was used; otherwise the chi-square test of independence was employed. A p-value < 0.05 was considered significant. Result: Lobectomy was carried out in 180 patients, bilobectomy in 50, sleeve lobectomy in 10 and pnemonectomy in 53. The pathologic report revealed 124 adenocarcinomas, 138 squamous-cell tumors, 14 adenosquamous tumors, 1 carcinoid tumor, 8 large cell carcinomas, 1 carcinosarcoma, 2 mucoepidermoid carcinomas and 5 undifferentiated tumors. The TNM stage was IA in 51 patients, IB in 98, IIB in 41, IIIA in 71, IIIB in 61 and IV in 6. 25.9 % of the 79 patients had N2 tumor. Most common infiltrated mediastinal lymph node was level No.4 in the right upper lobe, level No. 4 and 5 in the left upper lobe and level No. 7 in the other lobes, but no statistically significant difference was observed. Thirty-six patients (12.3%) presented with skip metastasis to the mediastinum. Conclusion: Mediastinal lymph node dissection is necessary for accurately determining the pTNM stage. It seems that there is no definite way that non-small cell lung cancer spreads to the lymphatics, in relation to the location of the primary cancer. Further, skip metastasis to the mediastinal lymph nodes was present in 12.3% of our patients.