• Title/Summary/Keyword: sleeve appearance

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Wearing Preference on the Types of Blouse according to Shoulder Angle - Focused on Set-in, Raglan and Kimono Sleeves - (어깨 경사도에 따른 소매 유형별 블라우스의 착의선호도 - 세트인, 래글런, 기모노를 중심으로 -)

  • Shin, Hye-Mi;Lee, Myung-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.21 no.2
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    • pp.163-170
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    • 2019
  • This study utilized the wearing test of subjects and a preference survey to determine wearing preference on types of blouses according to shoulder angle. The shoulder angles of the subjects were set as average shoulder, slopping shoulder, and square shoulder. The blouse sleeves were set as set-in, raglan, and kimono according to five domestic clothing construction books. A total of 15 blouses were made and tested by different bodices and sleeve types. The wearing test of subjects had the human subjects evaluate the appearance of the subject looking at the mirror while standing as well as evaluated the sensation test while not looking at the mirror. The preference survey was given to 100 females and was conducted using photos with combinations of three types of sleeves and shoulder angles in a survey under the same conditions. The average shoulder showed that set-in with the highest score in the wearing test was also preferred in the preference survey. The slopping shoulder evaluated the highest score in the wearing test by mirror; however, the preference survey showed that raglan was the most preferred choice. The squared shoulder showed that raglan with a high score in the wearing test by mirror was also preferred in the preference survey.

Development of Ergonomic Korean Male Military Winter Jacket (한국 남자 군인 방한복의 인간공학적 패턴 개발)

  • Han, Hyunsook;Han, Hyunjung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.42 no.6
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    • pp.943-961
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    • 2018
  • This study was to develop an ergonomic Korean male military winter jackets (inner and outer) pattern. First, we developed a prototype pattern and sample jackets based on a previous investigation for fitness and motion suitability of Korean male military winter jackets and evaluated fitness and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation results were positive with an over 3.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket. However, a relatively low score was shown in the sleeve length and collar front height at the inner jacket and shown in hem circumference, neck circumference, elbow and front neck at the outer jacket. Next, we developed the secondary pattern and sample jacket reflecting the prototype evaluation result and executed expert evaluation. The result showed that the ease amount was appropriate (except for the collar back height) and the appearance was good. Finally, we developed a final pattern that showed good results after evaluation at a Korean military army base.

A Comprehensive Approach to Pattern Drafting for Women with Large Bust Cup Sizes through Advanced 3D Virtual Clothing Systems

  • Kaihui Fang;Seiyoung Park;Dong-Eun Kim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.48 no.4
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    • pp.632-656
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    • 2024
  • This study presents a pattern drafting method for designing a slim-fit blouse for women in their twenties with a D cup bra size and various bust sizes within the standard body type range using the 3D virtual clothing system. Three participants were scanned using a body scanner, and three similar princess blouse patterns were selected. A total of nine virtual blouses were produced, with three sets made for each participant. In the initial evaluations, Pattern C received the highest score. The second pattern was designed by mending the flaws in Pattern C. However, in the eases of the front and back busts, back width and back waist were still insufficient and sleeve length was short. In the similarity evaluation between virtual and real blouses, the overall appearance was similar. Most of the corrected elements received significantly higher ratings in the third real blouse. However, the ease of the rear bust area was slightly large. In general, when drafting blouse patterns for women with large bust sizes, it is essential to increase the ease in the front bust, reduce the ease in the back bust, enlarge the waist dart, and decrease the armhole depth.

A Development of Hanbok Jeogori Pattern from Virtual Garment Simulation - With a Focus on Women in their 50s - (가상착의를 활용한 한복 저고리 원형설계의 기초연구 - 50대 중년여성을 중심으로 -)

  • Lim, Ji-Young;Lee, Hae-Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.607-613
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    • 2012
  • This study develops a Hanbok Jeogori pattern for middle-aged women with a 3D virtual-twin and virtual-garment simulation system. The including criteria for subjects in this study was a focus on women in their 50s, and a total of 345 females satisfying them were enrolled for 3D virtual model. Comparative Jeogori pattern, Baik & Choi's(2004) pattern, was selected for the development of Jeogori pattern. The results were: first, a new Jeogori pattern considerate of middle-aged women was developed. The basic numerical formula were: Front and back bust girth B/4+1.5, armhole depth B/4, sleeve width B/4, goedae width B/10-1.5 and git width 5.5. Second, according to the results of the new Jeogori patterns appearance evaluation, the new Jeogori pattern scored higher than the existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, this confirmed that the new Jeogori pattern is appropriate for middle-aged women. Virtual models of production through data from 3D body scan, pattern draft, and virtual garment digital program were applied to a prototypic design method to enhance the fitness of ready-made Hanbok garments. This study serves as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns and for the future 3D Pattern Production Program development of Hanbok patterns.

Development of Work Clothing for the Construction Site (건설현장 근로자인 작업복 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Chang Sun-Ok;Choi Hei-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.7 s.155
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    • pp.1090-1102
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to develop an improved work clothing which is much safe, comfortable, mobility and convenient than what workers currently wear at construction site. The investigation has been conducted to evaluate current work clothing to grasp any problems, discomforts and damages related to the work clothing. For the best and accurate data, hands-on investigation and a short-interview have been performed at the construction site as well as formulating a questionnaire. The questionnaires was answered by 425 workers and safety manager of 13 different construction site. The result of the questionnaire enables us to design a sample work clothing, many pa π s such as material, pattern and design have been improved. To improve the amenity of heat, the surface of a material was used by $Aerocool^{\circledR}$ fiber which contains inside dryness function. In order to absorb perspiration on the back the armpits, mesh martial that is mixture of $Coolever^{TM}$ fiber and $Mirawave^{TM}$ fiber was used to absorb perspiration in an effective manner. And a sleeve's bottom part and trousers' bottom part's cover method have been changed. Sample work clothing was shorten at the side of upper garment up to 2cm and lengthen the length of the back by 3cm. To reduce the tightness around armpit more room was given in that area. Darts were added to the elbow, the hip, and the knees that also followed an ergonomic pattern. A sample work clothing evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment to compare to a current work clothing. Assessment group consists of seven subject groups and nine expert groups to evaluate external appearance and adaptability to the movements. In all aspects of the test, the result of evaluation process of the sample work clothing received more positive assessment than the current work clothing.

Pattern Analysis and Determination of Body Dimension for Flight Suit Design (비행복 설계를 위한 패턴 분석 및 인체치수 설정)

  • Jeon, Eun-Jin;Park, Ji-Eun;Jeong, Jeong-Rim;Park, Sei-Kwon;Park, Jang-Un;You, Hee-Cheon;Kim, Hee-Eun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.286-292
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.

A Study on the Costume of Balhae Dynasty(II) -Focused on the costume of a bronze state excavated in the Maritime Provinces of Russia- (발해의 복식에 관한 연구(II) -러시아 연해주에서 발견된 청동용을 중심으로-)

  • 김민지
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.22
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    • pp.97-118
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    • 1994
  • This stud is my second trial to examine the costume of Balhae Dyansty. The subject of this study is the costume of a bronze statue excavated in the Maritime Provinces of Russia. The bronze statue is in the custody of Vladivostok Museum E.V. Shavkunov a Russian archelogist reported it a statue of-ficial of balhae dynasty in the 7-8th century. Judged his report lack of basis I suggest new opinion on sex, age, married or unmarried. social position manufactured time of the statue by comparative study on the costume hair-style and appearance of the statue with around nations' antiquities. hair-style of the statue is basically included in Ssangge and complexed style of Sage Ssangsuhuange, and Guange, Generally, Ssangge is a hair style of children, unmarried women, court ladies, dancing girls, and instrument player (lady)s'. The statue wears round-necked blouse long skirt broad fabric belt at high waist broad sleeve and confront collar coat cloud shaped shawl and risen tip shoes. The figure of statue is de-scribed plump. The statue shows straight sil-houette and high waist typical style of Tang, Uddai, The most characteristic facto is cloud shaped shawl Cloud shaped shawl was originally one of the northern race's shoulder ornaments. From the view of Comparative study the antiquities of NamDang and JunChock are simi-lar to this statue. Besides Tsukanovka river where the statue was excavated is Kraskino ruins of a castle formed single cultural layer of Balhae Dynasty and are relics of the layer of Balhae Dynasty and are relics of the latter period of Balhae Dynasty. Therefore this statue is assumed to have been manufactured at the last years of Balhae Dynasty and to be a figure of unmarried woman not official.

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Design Characteristics of New Senior Women's Coat (뉴 시니어 여성코트의 디자인 특성)

  • Bae, Siyeon;Lee, Kyoung-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.157-167
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    • 2015
  • This study was initiated to understand design and detail characteristics of coats that targeted new senior women by analyzing shape, color, fabric and detail. For the new senior, youthful appearance has more appeal than products that represent elder's style. Among, the coat can be effectively utilized as a trendy fashion item that targets seniors since it is more useful to hide figures than pants, blouses or jackets. The objectives of this research were to: First, examine design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Second, understand design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Third, analyze the relationship between the design of collars and details according to type of new senior women's coat. Photographs collected were categorized according to type of coat. Three types of coat (balmacaan, redingote and trench) were chosen to analyze with the highest frequency. The results of analyzing shape, length, color and fabric of the products made in domestic and foreign brands were similar; however, the collar and way of fastening showed significant results that required specific analysis since the design elements were related to maincoat characteristics in protecting against the cold. The depth of the V-zone can change without change of collar width and design changes in V-zone that influence the coat image that lead to changes in sleeve type and length (or fastening and closing position) method.

Exclusive tongue tip reconstruction of hemiglossectomy defects using the underrated lateral arm free flap with bilobed design

  • Oh, Jeongseok;Lee, Tae Hyeon;Lee, Jang Hyun;Tae, Kyung;Park, Seong Oh;Ahn, Hee Chang
    • Archives of Craniofacial Surgery
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.37-43
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    • 2019
  • Background: Tongue reconstruction is challenging with the unique function and anatomy. Goals for reconstruction differ depending on the extent of reconstruction. Thin and pliable flaps are useful for tongue tip reconstruction, for appearance and mobility. This study reports lateral arm free flap (LAFF) as a safe and optimal option for hemi-tongue reconstruction, especially for tongue tip after hemiglossectomy. Methods: Thirteen LAFFs were performed for hemi-tongue reconstruction after hemiglossectomy from 1995 to 2018. Of the 13 patients, seven were male and six were female, age varying from 24 to 64 years. Results: All flaps healed uneventfully without complications. Donor sites were closed primarily. The recipient vessels for microvascular anastomosis were mainly superior thyroidal artery, external jugular vein. All patients returned to normal diet, with no complaints regarding reconstructed tongue and donor site. Conclusion: The LAFF is hairless, thin (especially with lateral epicondyle approach), and potentially sensate. They are advantageous features for tongue tip and hemi-tongue reconstruction. Donor site sacrifices the inessential posterior radial collateral artery, and the scar is hidden under short sleeve shirts. We believe that LAFF can be considered as the first choice flap for hemitongue reconstruction, over radial forearm free flaps.

Development of patterns for comfortable wrap-one-piece style dance sport practice wear in daily life for middle-aged women with abdominal obesity (중년기 복부 비만 여성의 생활형 랩 원피스 스타일 댄스 스포츠 연습복 패턴 개발)

  • Kim, Jeong Ha
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.28 no.6
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    • pp.771-786
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    • 2020
  • This study aims to develop a life-friendly, wrap-one-piece style dance sports practice wear considering the physical characteristics of middle-aged, abdominally obese women. These types of practice wear allow people to enjoy exercise easily and to wear these garments as daily wear while meeting the requirements for dance sports wear. The three participants selected for this study were all women with five or more years of dance sports experience and were all average sized on Korea's abdominal obesity scale. In the first phase of the study, practice wear was created in a total of nine styles with three different styles of neckline depths for three different styles of dress skirt lengths. In the second phase of the study, the practice wear was created in 15 styles with five different styles of sleeve lengths for three different styles of waistline heights. After analyzing the design preferences of the participants, the fit preferences of the designs were evaluated and the final appearance was analyzed in order to suggest a pattern. The results of the subjects' first and second preference evaluations showed a preference for a 10 centimeter neckline depth, for high waistlines, and for elbow to wrist-length sleeves. The implementation of this research is expected to be extensive, as its results can be used as basic data for making lifestyle dance sports practice wear that covers the physical insecurities of middle-aged, abdominally obese women and enables them to enjoy their leisure time.