• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.73-89
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• 2017

This research aimed to identify the characteristics of outdoor apparel market for new seniors. To achieve this goal, influence of new seniors' lifestyle and apparel purchase criteria of design preferences of outdoor apparel products were investigated. An online-survey was conducted targeting fifties who have bought outdoor apparel within one year. The collected data were carried out for factor analysis, independent sample T-test, and regression analysis by using SPSS 22.0. Results showed that new seniors' lifestyles were composed of appearance-orientation, well-being diet, well-being exercise, self-development, and challenge-orientation. Purchase criteria of outdoor apparels were factored out as practical, aesthetic, and social. Appearance -orientation and self-development affect aesthetic and social factors. Well-being diet influences all factors of purchase criteria. Challenge -orientation has effect only on social factor. Women favored round-and V-neckline more than men did as well as preferred half and 3/4 long for sleeve. Customers who value practical purchase criteria preferred half-sleeve, zipper, and button-closure designs. In contrast, customers who have aesthetic purchase criteria like round/V-neckline and cap sleeve. Social factor affected high neckline and vivid-tone color preference significantly. As outdoor design for new senior it is critical to introduce differentiation of outdoor brand with various designs combining functionalities of outdoor activities and style looking young and dandy, which is highlighted as trendy and casual, over current outdoor apparels' unified design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.13 no.7
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Power shoulder look is most noticeable trend in women's wear in the 09/10 season. Specially jackets with sharper angle and wider shoulder became the best item since then, and were chosen for must-have item by fashion directors. Jacket occupied 50% in power shoulder items. Its shoulder angle was from 0 to 30 degree but items with 15 degree stood out among them. There are three methods to make power shoulder look jackets; shoulder extension method with moving shoulder tip up and sleeve cap height, method of extension and cutting sleeve cap with shorten shoulder length, and method of extension and moving shoulder tip up in the sleeve with shoulder line like raglan sleeve. As a result, shoulder angle is higher, starting point of shoulder line is closer to side neck point and shoulder point is extender to outside for appearance and fit. In shoulder extension method, the arm hole line was drawn with care by matching joining shoulder seam and setting the sleeve into the arm hole. In sleeve cap transformation, it is desired that starting point shoulder angle is moved closely to side neck point. In case of the sleeve with shoulder line, it needs to consider enough ease of shoulder and upper arm. For making patterns of power shoulder look jacket, it need to consider arm hole line, shoulder length, shoulder point position, sleeve cap height and sleeve width with interpretation design facts. In this study, through the analysis clothing construction method of power shoulder jacket, it is of help to pattern making for various power shoulder design items.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.845-856
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• 2014

This study focused on the production and usability evaluation of smart outdoor jackets that are designed to provide convenience to middle-aged people by embedding devices for lighting and location tracing. The results were as follows. 1. Jacket power supplier was a assembled system composed of battery, charger, controller and switch. A solar cell was attached on the upper arm, and a wire type EL on the center line of a raglan sleeve along with a GPS on the left sleeve with a transparent vinyl pocket. The total weight of the jacket embedded with devices was 385-520g. 2. Operation of function, activity, acceptability, safety, convenience for device use, appearance, practical maintenance were selected based on an analysis of evaluation criteria of previous smart wear research. Criteria were narrowed to three major categories of satisfaction, appearance and maintenance. 3. Use satisfaction criterion consisted of wearable device functionality and physical, psychological use convenience. The evaluation indicated actual functionality. EL functions were especially effective and necessary. Convenience of use showed that a smart jacket was thought to be safe and the size was moderate regardless of age and gender. Outer appearance was satisfactory and respondents praised the color. The practical maintenance evaluation indicated that there was no challenge in doing the laundry since the solar battery and GPS were detachable. The practical use of smart outdoor jackets confirmed by fabric that was washable and dried quickly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.76-89
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• 2013

This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of $16{\sim}17^{th}$ century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of $17^{th}$ century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1178-1187
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to conduct a questionnaire survey on the actual conditions of the working uniform and protective equipment put on by street cleaners, then to identify their inconvenience and problems and to draw solutions to improve them, and finally to design a spring-and-autumn street cleaner uniform which has enhanced functionalities such as motional flexibility, safety and soil proof. The questionnaire survey of this study was done by street cleaners who were in charge of street cleaning and collecting the recyclable waste. The result of this study, easily worn-out parts of the working clothing were the sleeve hems and the front part on the upper uniform, and the trouser hems and zipper on the lower uniform. Easily soiled parts were the sleeve hems, parts of arm on the upper uniform, and the trouser hems and knee parts on the lower uniform. Based on the results of the questionnaire survey, the sample uniforms were designed in consideration of material, design and pattern. A soil-proof material was used for easily soiled parts such as sleeve hems, knee parts and trouser hems. Reflective material was applied to the parts such as chest, back and the side lines of sleeves and trousers to raise visibility in working and to ensure safety. A crease was given to each side of the back. The height of sleeve cap was lowered to lift the motional flexibility of back and arm parts. Darts were applied to elbow and knee parts for a three-dimensional design. Gussets were inserted in the thigh part to give it activity. Then quantitative evaluation and a sensory evaluation, which was composed of outward appearance, motional flexibility and fitness for field operation, were conducted. According to these evaluations, the sample uniform was found to be more satisfactory than current uniform.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.637-647
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• 2004

The goal of this study was to develop bicycle apparel pattern for women cyclists. To investigate the pattern of bicycle apparel in Korea, anthropometric data were collected using direct and indirect measurements from October 2002 to July 2003. Three female subjects were recruited from forty measured women cyclists for pilot test. The differences between the responses of prototype bicycle apparel and existing bicycle apparel were compared using mean, standard deviation and t-test. The outfits for cyclists was completed through the three times rectification. Based on the results from the fit and appearance testing, I concluded as follows: The mean value of the center back length, back width, sleeve out-seam, bust ＆ thigh circumference, and weight of cyclists are more than the mean value of the non-cyclists. The result of fit evaluation by judges shows that there is a significant differences in the response to the shoulder, collar, movement of arms of jersey and movement of upper legs, crotch fit and general fit of shots. The result of appearance test between two outfits is no differences the mean value except the waist ease when sitting on cycle. Prototype bicycle apparel pattern for women cyclists developed and tested in this study have the potential to increase field performance and appearance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.656-664
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• 2019

This study was to develop the patterns based on the study of commercial Cheollik dress pattern analysis that verify the effects of pattern improvement by performing wearing evaluations. The commercial Cheollik dress pattern analysis was divided into A type composed of a traditional hanbok flat sleeve type and B type composed of western three-dimensional sleeves type. The prototype pattern of A type and prototype pattern of B type were fabricated after modifying and supplementing the pattern on the basis of precedent research. Appearance evaluations and mobility evaluations were also conducted. In the evaluations of the appearance, the prototype pattern in both A type and B type rated better than the control pattern in all items, so it can be judged to be a pattern that creates a better appearance in terms of allowance and design ratio. In the evaluations of the mobility, the prototype pattern was more convenient and a functional pattern with better scores in both A type and B type. If the Cheollik dress prototype patterns developed in this study are distributed, the Cheollik dress will be easy and comfortable to wear as a casual wear, which will help to make dailyization and popularization of Hanbok.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.778-792
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify women (aged from 49~59), who have recently emerged as consumers, and their clothing preferences, and it suggests how to make jackets provide better fit and wearability. The results of the study are as follows. In drafting a pattern for size 66 tailored collar jacket with an X-silhouette, it was made with front waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, a back length of B/4+1.3 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 34.5 cm, to allow for easy movement. In drafting a size 66 high neck collar jacket, it was made with a front and back waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 35 cm. In drafting a size 66 sports collar jacket with an A-silhouette, it was made with front and back waist lengths measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, and a side dart of 1.3 cm, to provide raglan sleeves. The last experimental jacket pattern improved the appearance and moving fitness evaluation especially for shoulder and arm movement. Based on analysis, jackets were made and subjected to an appearance evaluation using multi-modules to test the level of wearing satisfaction for each fabric and silhouette. the results of the multi-module wearing tests indicate that the preferred silhouettes caused less stressful situations in terms of both psychological and physiological signals.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.118-128
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• 2021

This study used a preliminary survey to help develop an ergonomic flight jacket that is suitable for the working environment and mission performance. The results are as follows. The ergonomic sleeve pattern was designed with a forward 165° incline that considers a shoulder joint direction suitable for the motion; in addition, a closely design opening provided warmth and safety from fire. As a result of the dimensional suitability, pilots evaluated that sleeve length and total length of the developed flight jacket were a little long (p<.01), while flight engineers and crew evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate (p<.01). Pilots evaluated that chest circumference and waist circumference were large (p<.05), while flight engineers and crews evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate. The evaluation of the motion suitability indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed flight jacket more comfortable than the current flight jacket (p<.05, p<.01, p<.001). The evaluation of the usability of pockets and penholders indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed jacket easier to use (p<.01). The flight engineers and crew evaluated that the appearance of the developed flight jacket was better than the current flight jacket (p<.05). The results of this study show that the difference of environment and mission performance has a significant influence on evaluation; therefore, it is necessary to develop separate military uniforms that included a winter flight jacket to reflect the needs of each group.