• Title/Summary/Keyword: sleeve's height

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Comparison and analysis of men's classic-fit and slim-fit shirt patterns - Utilizing the 3D virtual try-on system - (남성의 클래식핏과 슬림핏 셔츠 패턴 비교 분석에 관한 연구 - 3D 가상착의를 활용하여 -)

  • Kim, Minjung;Kim, Myoung-Ok;Park, Sunkyung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.22 no.2
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    • pp.209-224
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    • 2014
  • This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty (조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구)

  • Kwon, Yong-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.4
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    • pp.87-114
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    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

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A Kinematics Analysis of Uchi-mata(inner thigh reaping throw) by Kumi-kata types and Two different Opponent's Height in Judo[II] (유도 맞잡기 타입과 받기의 신장에 따른 허벅다리걸기의 Kinematic 분석[2])

  • Kwon, Moon-Seok;Kim, Eui-Hwan;Cho, Dong-Hee
    • Korean Journal of Applied Biomechanics
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.143-157
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    • 2002
  • This study was to analyze the kinematic variables when the subjects performing Uchi-mata(inner thigh reaping throw) by Kumi-kata types((How to grasp A or B?) and two different opponent's height in Judo. Kinematic variables were temporal, posture. Data analysis was collective comparison of two-way ANOVA, t-test by type A&B and two different opponent's height. There were significant difference of Kumi-kata types(p<.05) in the time elapsed on Kake phase(KP : throwing phase) and hip, knee, ankle-angle of the attacking foot in the 1st stage of KP and knee, ankle-angle of the attacking foot and hip, knee ankle-angle of the supporting foot in the 2nd stage of KP. There were significant difference of two opponent's(p<.05) in the time elapsed on KP and hip-angle of the supporting foot in 1st stage of KP. Therefore, the interaction effect(p<.05) were in the time elapsed on KP and hip-angle of the supporting foot in the 2nd stage of KP. So, It could be suggested that Judoka hold on the part-behind neck lapel(type A) at the sleeve with the other of Judogi jacked when opponent's height was short. Because the time elapsed on KP of type B was not so fast as type A(p<.05) during performed Uchi-mata, and also the bigger hip-angle of the supporting foot in the 2nd stage of KP grew, the faster the time elapsed on KP became.

A Study of Crinoline and Bustle Style Jacket Pattern Analysis and its Reproduction (크리놀린 스타일 및 버슬 스타일 재킷의 패턴분석과 재현에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Jin-Suk;Lee, Jeong-Ran
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.80-88
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    • 2006
  • This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

Upper Body Somatotypes of the Left-Handed and the Right-Handed - Focusing on male and female collegians in their 20s - (왼손 및 오른손 사용자(使用者)의 상반신체형(上半身體型)에 관한 비교연구(比較硏究) - 20대(代) 남녀(男女) 대학생(大學生)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Shim, Boo-Ja
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.7 no.4
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    • pp.78-92
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    • 2003
  • The upper-body characteristics of the right-handed and the left-handed are examined and compared through 1-dimensional measurement and 2-dimensional measurement. The results were as follows: 1. According to 1-dimensional measurement results, the clearest differences were seen in girth items rather than height or length items. In particular, hand girth, lower arm girth, and upper arm girth were bigger on the left side in the left-handed group and the right side in the right-handed group. This is thought to be relevant to the arm muscles frequently used. 2. According to 2-dimensional measurement results, significant differences appeared in the females of the left-handed group: shoulder point among width items. In the right-handed group, some differences of significance were shown in females (shoulder point, rear armpit point, and B.P. point among width items) and males (front neck point among extreme vertical distance items). In summary, the body type characteristics of the left-handed and the right-handed reveal great differences in the items related to arm length and arm girth. In other words, the sleeve and shoulder patterns production based on the right-handed don't rightly reflect the somatotype characteristics of the left-handed. In addition, in the cases of athletes, laborers, and the disabled who frequently use particular muscles or parts of the body, this sort of research in the patterns is consistently needed in order to reflect the size differences in girth items in upper body.

Body Contouring of Breast and Abdomen with Belt Dermolipectomy after Massive Weight Loss: A Case Report (과다 체중 감량 환자에서의 허리띠 피부지방절제술의 치험례)

  • Kim, Jong-Sok;Seo, Je-Won;Oh, Deuk-Young;Lee, Jung-Ho;Ahn, Sang-Tae;Rhie, Jong-Won
    • Archives of Plastic Surgery
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    • v.37 no.5
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    • pp.681-686
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    • 2010
  • Purpose: Obese proportion is increasing universally, estimating more than a billion. So reducing the weight became one of the topic in medical market. Not only diet, exercise, medication, but also many surgical procedures are being developed, such as sleeve gastrectomy, gastric bypass surgery. After massive weight loss, skin excess and laxity occurs, leading to unsatisfying body contour. Body contouring surgery including abdominoplasty, breast reduction is performed when skin excess is present in abdomen and breast. When skin excess is present circumferentially, belt dermolipectomy is the treatment of choice. Methods: A 23-year-old man had weight gain since he was 12 of age. A year before visiting to our department, his height was 168 cm, weight was 150 kg and body mass index (BMI) was 53.15 kg/$m^2$. The patient lost 55 kg of his weight through exercise and diet control. When he visited again, his weight was 95 kg and BMI was 33.66 kg/$m^2$. In physical examination, skin excess and laxity was seen in both breast and abdomen circumferentially and lateral folds were seen in the back. Abdominal contour deformity (Pitman classification type 6) and pseudogynecomastia (grade 3) were present in both breast. Belt dermolipectomy of abdomen, both breast and lateral folds was performed, resecting 6,400 g of tissue and additive 1,200 g through revisional operation. Results: The patient lost 6,500g of his weight and BMI reduced by 2.3 kg/$m^2$. The patient's hospital course was uneventful during 5 weeks of hospitalization and he was satisfied with his final body contour. Conclusion: Body contouring with belt dermolipectomy in patient who has circumferential skin excess and laxity after massive weight loss can be a treatment of choice.