• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.302-309
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• 2020

The objective of this study was to optimize the condition for induction and proliferation of callus from Rhus chinensis Mill. and investigate the skin-brightening effect of Rhus chinensis callus (RCC). It was confirmed that the most proper plant growth regulator (PGR) for callus induction is 1.0 mg/L of 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D). The most optimal condition of PGR, medium and additives for callus proliferation were 2,4-D (1.0 mg/L), MS medium and citric acid, respectively. Inhibitory activities of tyrosinase were higher at 50 and 100 ㎍/mL of RCC extracts (41.86 and 75.56%, respectively) than arbutin (27.32%). As the results of measuring melanin inhibition in B16F1 melanocyte and B16F10 melanoma cell, RCC extracts increased its inhibitory activities concentration-dependently, and were found to have higher whitening effect than arbutin at a concentration of 100 ㎍/mL. Therefore, it is suggested that RCC can be used as an effective material for skin-brightening cosmetics.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.70-78
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• 2022

The objective of this study was to assess the effect of preventing pigmentation caused by external stimuli, promoting skin regeneration and whitening of the skin composition containing complex extract of Dendrobii Caulis and Centella asiatica (CE). We evaluated cell viability, tyrosinase and melanin inhibition activity, skin irritation test, and skin moisturizing and regenerative effects using CE. As a result of the tyrosinase inhibitory activity, 100 ㎍/mL CE (35.31%) showed higher value than kojic acid (21.32%). The results of melanin synthesis inhibition in B16F10 melanoma cells after treatment with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone showed a similar level of activity to that of arbutin, indicating an excellent whitening effect. In clinical test of the skin composition containing CE, we confirmed that CE is non-irritated in human skin primary irritation test as well as have a high skin moisturizing and regenerative effect. From these results, we suggested the CE not only prevents skin damage and pigmentation caused by external stimuli but has remarkable skin brightening activity and skin regeneration effect.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.85-90
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• 2010

Several studies have demonstrated that ginseng-berry extract has several beneficial properties, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and vasodilation properties. Ginseng-berry extract has also been shown to have the great potential against skin aging. Its beneficial mechanism against skin aging, however, has not been examined in detail. Also, the effects of ginseng-berry extract on microcirculation and skin cellular responses have not been investigated. Inhibition of skin microcirculation is the primary cause of many adverse biological effects, which is responsible for the skin aging and darkening. We investigated the beneficial effects of ginseng-berry extract on blood circulation, transcutaneous oxygen pressure in vivo model and also on skin microcirculation, cellular response and skin brightening effect in clinical trial. We found that oral administration of ginseng-berry extract markedly increased blood flow rate and transcutaneous $O_2$ pressure, but decreased transcutaneous $CO_2$ pressure. Also, it improved skin tone on cheeks, as is skin brighteness. These results suggest that ginseng-berry extract is a potent candidate for the treatment of skin aging and brightening by improving skin microcirculation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.253-258
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• 2010

Until now, evaluating the efficacy of brightening mainly depends on total reflective light measurement. For example, SHV (Saturation, Hue, Value), $L^*$ $a^*$ $b^*$ (CIELAB color space system) color space system was used and lightness and saturation changes were chosen as major parameters for evaluating brightening effect. However, those parameters were calculated from total reflective light on the skin and it is hard to evaluate perceptive efficacy such as luminescence, and glossy. In this research, we applied new method for estimating change of luminescence of skin by using 'Lumiscan' which uses polarized light for detecting surface and inside reflective light independently. We also tested 15 different parameters for finding correlations between luminescence and those parameters. As a results, our 2 different brightening products showed 5 ~ 9 % increase of luminescence at 4 and 8 weeks. And we also found that skin roughness (-28 %), melanin index (-17 %), redness (-7 %), hydration (15 %), and lightness (6 %) were related to luminescence of skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.283-288
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• 2011

Since minerals are in ionic forms in aqueous phase (like deep sea water), it is very hard to incorporate concentrated minerals in gel like cosmetic formulations which are generally composed of carbomer or acrylates polymer. In this study, we invented a salt-resistant network formulation made of silicon copolyol. It was found that the network formulation traps minerals (especially from marine) in a mesh-like silicone copolyol structure. Since the mineral-containing formulation makes a very thin film on the skin, minerals could be easily absorbed into stratum corneum. In 6 weeks in vivo test, it was found that the novel mineral formulation increased the amounts of amino acids, major components of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), as well as levels of minerals. It was also found that the moisture contents and the brightness of the skin increased.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.91-96
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• 2011

Deficiency of collagen regeneration, denaturalization of fibers, increased melanin synthesis and reactive oxygen species are important factors inducing deterioration of healthy skin function. They induce freckles and decrease in skin elasticity. Vitamin C, vitamin A and their derivatives have been used as cosmetic ingredients for improvement of these problems but they have various problems. We have been developing the various derivatives of these ingredients. In this study, we investigated whitening effect of 3-o-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE), a new vitamin C derivative. The VCCE inhibited melanogenesis in a dose dependent manner(44 % at $20\;{\mu}g/mL $) and tyrosinase expression. For 8 weeks, we also investigated skin brightening effect of VCCE on pigmented spots in UV-irradiated human skin. In results, VCCE showed a statistically significant skin whitening effect by mechanical and visual evaluation. Taken together, our findings suggest that the VCCE has potential benefits as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.455-464
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• 2018

This study investigated whether the whitening effects of fullerene serum occurred through improvement of melanin production and skin tone and evaluated its potential for use as a cosmetic material for adult women aged 30-55 with dull skin color and pigmentation. Subjects were divided into a control group with fullerene-less serum (B) and an experimental group with serum containing 0.1% fullerene (A) and evaluated over 8 weeks. Visual assessment and measurement of skin conditions (melanin index, skin brightness) were conducted before use of and 4 and 8 weeks after use of the product, and a questionnaire survey and safety assessment were conducted at the end of the experiment. The results revealed that the highest decrease was 0.37% in the experimental group (A) after eight weeks of use of the product, but that this difference was not statistically significant. Moreover, no significant differences were observed upon inter-group comparison. Evaluation of changes in the melanin index and inter-group comparison revealed a significant decline in the experimental group (A) at all time points. Additionally, the $L^*$ value (skin brightness) of the experimental group (A) showed a significant increase (improvement) after eight weeks, while in inter-group comparison revealed a significant increase (improvement) at all time points (4 and 8 weeks later) (p<0.05). Based on a questionnaire survey of efficacy, positive response rates such as improvement of the target parts on week 8 were high in terms of 'improvement of skin color.' Moreover, the safety assessment revealed no adverse reactions. In conclusion, serum containing 0.1% fullerene revealed improved melanin production and skin tone (brightness) and confirmed its potential for use as a cosmetic material with brightening efficacy. Taken together, the results of this study indicate systematic investigation of the effective application and cosmetics formulations of this product are warranted.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.47-58
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• 2023

Recently, along with the remarkable increase in interest in microbiome cosmetics, the application of microbiome extracts in the complex efficacy as anti-aging, brightening etc. has become very important. In this study, Bifidobacterium bifidum (B. bifidum), which has excellent anti-wrinkle efficacy among the microbiome, was selected through an in vitro test using cells and 3D human skin equivalents. And the anti-wrinkle efficacy of cosmetics containing B. bifidum was evaluated by clinical test. Thereafter, the cytotoxicity, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle efficacy of the of the bifida fermented filtrate were tested. An emulsion containing bifida fermented filtrate at a concentration of 5% (v/v) with no cytotoxicity and excellent efficacy was prepared with the placebo emulsion. The clinical test was conducted on a total of 21 women at 2 weeks comparing the bifida emulsion and placebo emulsion. Wrinkles around the eyes were instrumentally evaluated using Antera 3D. The wrinkle reduction rate of the Bifida emulsion group compared with the placebo emulsion group differed by 5.6%. Overall, the selection of microbiome using 3D human skin equivalents and the efficacy study of cosmetics with the microbiome extracts would be actively studied to the development of microbiome cosmetics and skin microbiome mechanisms.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.247-254
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• 2012

Ramalin (${\gamma}$-glutamyl-N'-(2-hydroxyphenyl)hydrazide) isolated from the Antarctic lichen Ramalina terebrata has been shown to have strong antioxidant activities in the previous study. To investigate additional activities of ramalin, we studied the effects of ramalin on melanogenesis in melan-a cells, a non-tumorigenic melanocyte cell line. At a non-cytotoxic concentration, ramalin dramatically decreased melanin synthesis in melan-a cells in a dose-dependent manner, which was more potent than arbutin, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. Ramalin inhibited cell-free tyrosinase activity directly and intracellular tyrosinase activity as well. Its inhibitory mechanisms on melanin production were further assessed, and we found that ramalin significantly decreased the protein levels of melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2). However, the mRNA levels of these enzymes were not altered. In a clinical study, application of 0.2 % ramalin on human skin significantly improved the degree of skin brightness after 3 weeks. In conclusion, ramalin has strong anti-melanogenic activity that is exerted both by the direct inhibition of tyrosinase activity and by down-regulation of melanogenic proteins. Furthermore, ramalin showed skin brightening effect in a clinical study. Collectively, these results suggest that ramalin may be a useful inhibitor for melanogenesis in skin.