• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.413-420
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• 2016

Hydroxy acid has been used to enhance anti-aging and skin moisturization by peeling effect on the skin stratum corneum, and thus it has been widely used in topical products and cosmetic products. Among them, the effect that appears most effectively in a short period of time has been reported to be effected by the pH of the cosmetic formulations. However, there are many difficulties in use due to irritation caused by pH and concerns about side effects. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of applying cosmetics with (1) varying concentrations, (2) types and (3) pH of hydroxy acid on human skin. 22 healthy adults were stained with DHA (dihydroxyacetone) and DC (dansyl chloride) on the forearm, and the skin exfoliation effect was measured after application of the test products. (1) The application of GA (glycolic acid) increased the desquamation by concentration dependent. (2) the test product prepared with neutral pH showed no exfoliation effect. In contrast, SA (salicylic acid) showed a statistically significant exfoliation effect at both acidic pH and neutral pH. (3) The neutral pH SA showed excellent exfoliation effect on bot DHA and DC stained stratum corneum. These results suggest that it is possible to manufacture safe cosmetics without damaging the skin barrier, providing an opportunity to use cosmetics that are expected to exfoliate to people, whose skin is sensitive to pH.

• Archives of Pharmacal Research
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.224-228
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• 2001

DA-5018, a recently synthesized capsaicin analog, appears to possess potent analgesic activity when administered topically. The objective of this study is to test the feasibility of the topical administration of this compound. Specifically, our goal was to identify vehicle system that permit a reasonable transdermal permeation of the compound in mice. Among the vehicles examined, isopropyl myristate (IPM) showed the largest in vitro permeability across the intact skin (83.6 ${\pm}$ 5.42${\mu}$l/$\textrm{cm}^2$/h ). However, due to the limited solubility of DA-5018 in IPM (0.53 mg/ml), the maximal flux from the IPM medium remained at only 44.3 ${\pm}2.87{\mu}$g/$\textrm{cm}^2$/hr. In order to increase the flux, addition of better solvents for DA-5018 was attempted, under the assumption that flux is the result of both solubility and permeability. Ethoxydiglycol (EG) and oleic acid (OA) were selected as examples of food solvents. The addition of IC or OA to IPM at a 1:1 volume ratio resulted in a comparable increase in the solubility of the compound (i.e., to 61.1 and 50.2 mg/ml for EG and OA, respectively). However, the addition of EG at a 1:1 volume ratio, for example, increased the flux 6.3 fold (i.e., $279{\mu}$g/$\textrm{cm}^2$/hr), while OA, at a 1:1 volume ratio, decreased the flux 5 fold (i.e., $9.26{\mu}$g/$\textrm{cm}^2$//hr). The mechanism of this discrepancy between EG and OA was investigated by measuring the permeabilty of DA-5018 across the stratum corneum-removed skin of the mouse, under the hypothesis that the viable skin layer may serve as a barrier for the permeation of lipophilic substances such as DA 5018. The permeability of DA-5018, from the medium of EG or OA, across the viable skin differed greatly for EG ($0.41{\mu}$l/$\textrm{cm}^2$/hr) and OA ($0.086{\mu}$l/$\textrm{cm}^2$/hr), suggesting that a higher permeability across the viable skin layer is needed for the second solvents. The maximum flux across the intact skin was achieved for DA-5018 when EG was added to IPM at a 1:1 volume ratio. Thus, the use of a binary system appears to be the best approach for realizing the transdermal delivery of DA-5018 at a reasonable rate.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.345-352
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• 2004

There are two paradigms to explain the atopic dermatitis. The first is outside-inside paradigm and the second is inside-outside paradigm. According to the outside-inside paradigm the best way to treat the atopic dermatitis is recovery of skin barrier function. The barrier function is maintained by the specific structure of stratum corneum, which is constructed from corneocytes and intercellular lipids. In terms of lipid structures of SC in atopic dermatitis and lamellar ichthyosis, they contain more fluid hexagonal gel structures in SC and show deficiencies in free fatty acids, especially long chains and certain ceramides. With this reason, moisturizer which has the lamellar structure and restoring function of intrinsic intercellualr long periodicity phase can maintain and restore the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids in SC. The moisturizers containing ceramide or pseudoceramide also seem to be reasonable therapy for atopic dermatitis and several skin diseases, which interrelated with impaired skin harrier. By the way, according to the inside-outside paradigm, immune response including helper T cells, IgE, eosinophils is related. It is effective treatment of atopic dermititis to restore imbalance between Th1 and Th2 cells. Even though several kinds of immune-suppressor were introduced, these can affect the intrinsic immune function. SPC and S1P, metabolites of ceramide, would be interesting because they have the function of wound healing and immune modulating properties.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.393-399
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• 2006

This study was aimed to design, formulate and characterize the moisture-activated patches containing acyclovir for antiviral action. Gel intermediates for film-type patches were prepared with mucoadhesive polymer, viscosity builders, enhancers and acyclovir. Patches containing acyclovir were characterized by in vitro measurement of drug release rates through a cellulose barrier membrane, and of drug flux through the hairless mouse skin. Film-type patches obtained were uniform in the thickness and showed a mucoadhesive property when contacted with moisture. The formulation was optimized, which consisted of $Cantrez^{\circledR}$ AN-169(2%), $Kollidon^{\circledR}$ VA 64(1%), $Natrosol^{\circledR}$(1%), hydroxypropyl-$\beta$-cyclodextrin(1%) and dimethylsulfoxide(0.5%). Release rates of acyclovir patches increased dose-dependently. The addition of terpenes such as d-limonene or cineole increased release rates of acyclovir, but decreased permeation rates. The permeation rates were enhanced by 2 and 2.5 times by the addition of glycyrrhizic acid ammonium salt and sodium glycocholate, respectively, compared with that of no enhancer. These results suggest that it may be feasible to deliver acyclovir through the skin or gingival mucosa from the moisture-activated patches.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.141-147
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• 2018

This study aimed to analyze the contents of rutin, procyanidin B3, quercetin, and kaempferol, known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic effects, among the polyphenol types contained in grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE). It utilized grape stems discarded after harvest to measure the effects of GPSE on skin moisture, inhibition of skin cell proliferation, and anti-inflammatory activity on the damaged skin of HR-1 mice induced with ultraviolet B (UVB), and to verify the applicability of GPSE as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics. The polyphenol was extracted from grape pruning stems with 80% EtOH, and then the extract was used while storing at $-20^{\circ}C$, after filtering, concentrating, and freeze-drying it. The content of an active ingredient of GPSE was analyzed using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). From 53 kg of the grape pruning stem specimen, 2.34 kg of the EtOH fraction extracts were extracted to achieve a 4.42% yield ratio. Analysis of the active ingredients showed 0.28 mg/g of procyanidin B3, 12.81 mg/g of rutin, 0.51 mg/g of quercetin, and 8.24 mg/g of kaempferol. After UVB irradiation on the dermis, to confirm the degree of inhibition of collagen synthesis, we examined the protein expression of MMP-9 using immunohistochemical staining. The results of this study confirm the existence of active polyphenol types, such as rutin, kaempferol, quercetin, and procyanidin B3, in GPSE. Moreover, the study found that GPSE has anti-collagenase effects and it decreases the effects of UV damage on skin barrier function. GPSE is a functional ingredient with a potential for skin protection effects, and it has high utilization potential as an ingredient for functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.63-71
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• 2015

Moisturizers are the most prescribed products in dermatology. Treatment with moisturizers aims to maintain skin integrity and overall well-being by providing a healthy appearance. Moisturizers perform very important functions in baby care; however, there are few studies on the effects of moisturizers on the skin of infants. To investigate the effects of moisturizers on the skin of healthy full-term infants and toddlers, thirty-one healthy, full-term, 6- to 36-month-old infants and toddlers without any dermatologic conditions received moisturizer applied to the whole body except the eyes and diaper area after bathing twice daily for 4 weeks. Clinical assessments were conducted before treatment, immediately after the treatment period, and 1 and 4 weeks after treatment. At all visits, skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH, and skin roughness were measured, the skin surface was photographed, and any adverse events were recorded. After using moisturizer, skin hydration significantly increased and TEWL and roughness significantly decreased. The skin pH was modified to mildly acidic and the skin surface was visually smoother than before treatment. There were no statistical significant differences of effects of moisturizers according to age and sex, and adverse events were not observed. The results of moisturizer application on the skin were increased skin hydration, recovery of barrier function, balancing skin pH within a mildly acidic range, and increasing the smoothness of the skin surface for 4 weeks.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.341-350
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• 2015

Skin carrys out protective role against harmful outer environment assaults including ultraviolet radiation, heavy metals and oxides. Especially, ultraviolet-B (UVB) light causes inflammatory reactions in skin such as sun burn and erythma and stimulates melanin pigmentation. Furthermore, the influx of UVB into skin cells causes DNA damage in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts, inhibition of extracellular matrix (ECM) synthesis which leads to a decrease in elasticity of skin and wrinkle formation. It also damages dermal connective tissue and disrupts the skin barrier function. Prolonged exposure of human skin to UVB light is well known to trigger severe skin lesions such as cell death and carcinogenesis. Haloarcula vallismortis is a halophilic microorganism isolated from the Dead Sea, Its growth characteristics have not been studied in detail yet. It generally grows at salinity more than 10%, but the actual growth salinity usually ranges between 20 to 25%. Because H. vallismortis is found mainly in saltern or salt lakes, there could exist defense mechanisms against strong sunlight. One of them is generation of additional ATP using halorhodopsin which absorbs photons and produces energy by potential difference formed by opening the chloride ion channel. It often shows a color of pink or red because of their high content of carotenoid pigments and it is considered to act as a defense mechanism against intense UV irradiation. In this study, the anti-inflammatory effect of the halophilic microorganism, H. vallismortis, extract was investigated. It was found that H. vallismortis extract had protective effect on DNA damage induced by UV irradiation. These results suggest that the extract of halophilic bacterium, H. vallismortis could be used as a bio-sunscreen or natural sunscreen which ameliorate the harmful effects of UV light with its anti-inflammatory and DNA protective properties.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.115-120
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• 2010

The formidable barrier property of the stratum cornemum and the high hydrophilicity of active ingredient make it difficult to permeate through the skin and reach to its site of action. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of chemical penetration enhancers on the skin permeation of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient, such as arbutin. The enhancing effects of N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) on the permeation of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient were evaluated by using Franz diffusion cell. The study indicated that NMP has considerable influence on the skin permeability. NMP was not only the most effective enhancer but also increased the skin permeability of arbutin approximately 1.3~1.5 fold compared with control without penetration enhancer. The lag time did not change with NMP, which suggested no effect of NMP on skin lipid fluidity. This suggest that arbutin co-permeated with NMP. The results indicate NMP is effective enhancer of a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient in penetration, with potential applications for drug delivery system.

• BMB Reports
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.273-278
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• 2011

Destruction of the skin barrier by thermal injury induces microbial invasion, which can lead to the development of systemic infection and septic shock. Microbial pathogens possess pathogen-associated molecular patterns (PAMPs), which are recognized by conserved receptors. To understand the role of PAMPs in thermal injury-induced mice, LPS or CpG-DNA were topically applied to dorsal skin after thermal injury. We observed an increase in the number of inflammatory cell infiltrates as well as thickening in the dermis upon treatment with LPS or CpG-DNA. We also found that expression of IL-$1{\beta}$, MIP-2, and RANTES induced by thermal injury was enhanced by LPS or CpG-DNA. In addition, the proportions of $CD4^+$ and $CD^8+$ T cells in the spleen and lymph nodes were altered by LPS or CpG-DNA. These results provide important information concerning PAMPs-induced inflammation upon thermal injury and provide a basis for studying the role of PAMPs in thermal injury-induced complications.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.211-216
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• 2008

Bufexamac which was used for treatment of atopic dermatitis is the drug which was made as the ointment. However, penetration rate of bufexamac was very low for the barrier effect of stratum corneum. Microneedle was used to increase transdermal delivery rate of the bufexamac. We tried to conjugate bufexamac and FITC for the detection of penetration rate of bufexamac. FITC-bufexamac was mixed in hydrogel for the treatment skin surface. Fluorescent spectrophotometer was used to analysis the concentration of FITC-bufexamac. Microscope using fluorescent filter was used to capture the image about location of FITC-bufexamac in the skin. We confirmed that permeation rate of bufexamac was increased with the treatment by microneedle and was increased by the increasing number treatment of microneedle.