• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.149-162
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• 2003

Moisturizing the skin is one of the most important functions of skincare cosmetics, because water plays a significant role in keeping the skin healthy. There are various humectants including polyol (glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol), water-soluble polymers, and botanical extracts. It is well known that the increased amount of polyol in lotion for obtaining high moisturizing effect gives a sticky feeling to the skin. Therefore, a few humectants that can give high moisturizing effect without a sticky feeling for lotion formula is available. On the other hand, oil-based lipstick is well known to have a difficulty to contain a large amount of hydrophilic humectants, because the humectants is unable to be mixed well into oil-based lipsticks and give the lips a peculiar taste. There are newly developed humectants, polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether (EPDME) that can solve these problems describable above. EPDME is a random copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. EPDME gives a low sticky feeling with a high moisturizing effect when it is used in lotion. As a remarkable character, EPDME can show not only a preventing effect on rough and dry skin, but also a improving effect upon the use for 1-4 weeks. EPDME can show a synergistic effect with glycerin on preventing to rough and dry skin. Since EPDME can be dissolved in oil-based formulation and used as an ingredient of lipsticks, EPDME can give a moisturizing effect that allows lip to be healthy condition. EPDME can also give no peculiar taste even upon the use of a large amount. EPDME is a useful cosmetic ingredient that can show a good skin care effect in both water-based formula and oil-based formula. EPDME of which polarity can be controllable is expected to be used for various cosmetic applications in near future.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.87-92
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• 2008

Wood vinegar is well known as a softening agent affecting on the stratum corneum that is easy to penetrate into the skin. In this study, we prepared mixed ursolic acid hydrogel with wood vinegar(1, 2, 5%) as a penetration enhancer. The accumulation of ursolic acid in the skin from hydrogels was evaluated in vitro hairless mouse skin and skin moisturizing effect of them was evaluated using the corneometer and the tewermeter. And the role of stratum corneum as a protective barrier was evaluated as well. The hydrogels were retained about 40% of water retention capacity 2hrs and had better effect on the stripped skin than full-thickness skin. The accumulation of ursolic acid through stripped skin from hydrogels with wood vinegar was not change compared to normal skin, which indicated the action site of wood vinegar and the accumulation site of ursolic acid would be stratum corneum. From these result, we could find wood vinegar seems to be a good enhancer for active materials with anti-wrinkle and anti aging effect such as ursolic acid, and can be a developed topical delivery system maintaining excellent water retention capacity.

• 한국해양바이오학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.58-64
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• 2017

Polysaccharides are useful materials for keep skin moisturizing and skin improvement cosmetic materials. We have isolated polysaccharides form Gracilariopsis sp. The polysaccharide derived from Gracilariopsis sp. have various size of 300kDa, 500kDa and over 1,000kDa. The volunteers applied a cream formula with polysaccharides from Graciariopsis sp. for 4 weeks. We found significant improvement of wrinkles and skin texture. We also found an effect of improving skin elasticity. When the moisture reduction rate of the skin was 2.8% lower than the 5.1% of hyaluronic acid. The polysaccharide extract from Gracilariopsis sp. showed stable pH and viscosity. The polysaccharides derived from Gracilariopsis sp. could be used as a cosmetic material.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.700-718
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• 2003

Fructan, a polysaccharide existing in plants or produced by microorganisms, is a sugar polymer of fructose with $\beta$-2,6 linkages. In this study, we investigated some cosmeceutical properties of Fructan such as moisturizing effect, cell proliferation effect, anti-inflammation effect and cell cytotoxicity. Zymomonas mobilis, a microorganism producing Fructan, was cultured in a medium containing 10％ sucrose and 2％ yeast extract as main components for 24 hours at 37$^{\circ}C$ and pH 7. Fructan was obtained by precipitation from the cultured medium by adding alcohol (alcohol ratio of 1:3) after removing the enzyme by centrifuging. Fructan exhibited almost same moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid and cell proliferation effect on human fibroblast and keratinocyte as well. Moreover, on cell proliferation test on bio-artificial skin constructed by 3-dimensional(3-D) culture after inducing primary skin inflammation with 0.5％ sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), the 3-D artificial skin treated with 0.01 mg/ml, 0.05mg/ml of Fructan exhibited higher cell proliferation than the 3-D artificial skin treated with SLS only. On anti-inflammation test on 3-D artificial skin evaluated by measuring secreted quantity of interleukin-1$\alpha$ (IL-1$\alpha$) which is a pre-inflammatory mediator induced by SLS, the quantity of IL-1$\alpha$on the 3-D artificial skin treated with 0.01 mg/ml, 0.05mg/ml of Fructan was less than the one on the 3-D artificial skin treated with SLS only. As a result of these studies, Fructan has anti-inflammation effect against inflammatory reaction by a skin irritant as well as cell proliferation effect in bio-artificial skin. Fructan was also evaluated as a safe material without any toxicity in safety tests using fibroblasts and animals.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.543-547
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• 2015

We investigated the combined moisturizing effect of liposomal serine and a cosmeceutical base selected in this study. Serine is a major amino acid consisting of natural moisturizing factors and keratin, and the hydroxyl group of serine can actively interact with water molecules. Therefore, we hypothesized that serine efficiently delivered to the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin would enhance the moisturizing capability of the skin. We prepared four different cosmeceutical bases (hydrogel, oil-in-water (O/W) essence, O/W cream, and water-in-oil (W/O) cream); their moisturizing abilities were then assessed using a $Corneometer^{(R)}$. The hydrogel was selected as the optimum base for skin moisturization based on the area under the moisture content change-time curves (AUMCC) values used as a parameter for the water hold capacity of the skin. Liposomal serine prepared by a reverse-phase evaporation method was then incorporated in the hydrogel. The liposomal serine-incorporated hydrogel (serine level=1%) showed an approximately 1.62~1.77 times greater moisturizing effect on the skin than those of hydrogel, hydrogel with serine (1%), and hydrogel with blank liposome. However, the AUMCC values were not dependent on the level of serine in liposomal serine-loaded hydrogels. Together, the delivery of serine to the SC of the skin is a promising strategy for moisturizing the skin. This study is expected to be an important step in developing highly effective moisturizing cosmeceutical products.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.81-88
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• 2006

피부 각질층내의 아미노산 조성비율과 유사한 조성비로 amino acid complex을 제조하고, 제조된 amino acid complex가 피부에 미치는 영향을 알아보기 위해 세포 생존율, TIMP-1 발현 증가율, 보습 및 각질량 변화를 측정하였다. 연구 결과 amino acid complex는 독성이 없는 안전한 물질로 우수한 보습력 및 보습유지효과와 ascorbic acid와 유사한 TIMP-1 발현량 증가로 주름 예방 및 개선에 효과를 가지고 있으며, 각질량 감소 및 감소유지효과로 자극이 있는 AHA 대체 물질로의 가능성을 보였다. 따라서, amino acid complex는 다기능을 가진 노화방지 화장료 기능성분으로 유용하게 사용될 수 있음을 확인하였다.

• 생약학회지
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.49-54
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• 2020

The aim of this study was to investigate the epidermal moisturizing effects of artocarpin on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). To investigate the effects of artocarpin on NHEKs, cell viability and the expression of mRNAs related to skin hydration were measured. In addition, hyaluronic acid (HA)-ELISA assay was performed. Here, the effects of artocarpin on AQP3, HAS2, KRT1, and KRT10 mRNA expression, and on HA production, following UVA treatment were reported. The Quantitative real-time PCR results demonstrate that artocarpin increased AQP3, HAS2, KRT1, and KRT10 mRNA levels. The HA-ELISA assay revealed that artocarpin also increased HA production in NHEKs. Through these experiments, the epidermal moisturizing effects of artocarpin have been elucidated, providing evidence that artocarpin may be a potent cosmetic ingredient in skin anti-aging and moisturizing products. Based on these results, I anticipate that further research on the mechanisms of action of artocarpin may allow the development of not only cosmetics, but also medicines and healthcare foods.

• 생약학회지
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.228-233
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• 2021

This research was carried out to investigate the moisturizing effects of Agarum cribrosum extract on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). Moisturizing effects of A. cribrosum extract on NHEKs were measured by quantitative realtime RT-PCR to verify the gene expressions related to skin hydration, hyaluronic acid (HA)-ELISA to detect HA production, and cell viability assays. A. cribrosum extract increased the mRNA levels of the AQP3 and HAS2 genes and HA production in NHEKs. On the other hand, A. cribrosum extract decreased the mRNA level of the KRT1 and KRT10 genes known as differentiated keratinocyte marker in NHEKs. This research showed the moisturizing effects of A. cribrosum extract. The results indicate that A. cribrosum extract can be a potent functional ingredient for skin hydration and anti-aging products. Further study is warranted regarding the use of A. cribrosum extract to develop not only cosmetics but also food and medicine.

• KSBB Journal
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.319-326
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• 2013

This study was carried out to investigate the in vitro and in vivo moisturizing properties and percutaneous absorption of PEG-impregnated Aloe vera gel. The PEG-i-Aloe gel was obtained from dewatering and impregnation by soaking (DIS) of Aloe vera leaf slice. The moisturizing property of the obtained sample was evaluated by moisture determination using gravimetric method in desiccator under different RH% and by water sorption-desorption test on human skin. The transdermal penetration characteristics of PEG-i-Aloe gel was investigated by Franz diffusion cell in vitro transdermal absorption method. PEG-i-Aloe gel had high moisture retention ability and could significantly lead the enhancing skin hydration status as well as reducing the skin water loss due to the film formation as a skin barrier. The skin penetration rate of PEGi- Aloe gel at steady state was 9.76 ${\mu}g/(h{\cdot}cm^2)$ and the quantity of the transdermal absorption was 144 ${\mu}g/cm^2$ in 9 hr. The penetration mechanism was well fitted with Higuchi model ($R^2$ = 0.974-0.994). The results show that PEG-i-Aloe gel has the significant moisturizing effect and strong penetration of the animal skin. It could be used as the moisturizing additive in cosmetic skin products.

• 생약학회지
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.70-78
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• 2022

The objective of this study was to assess the effect of preventing pigmentation caused by external stimuli, promoting skin regeneration and whitening of the skin composition containing complex extract of Dendrobii Caulis and Centella asiatica (CE). We evaluated cell viability, tyrosinase and melanin inhibition activity, skin irritation test, and skin moisturizing and regenerative effects using CE. As a result of the tyrosinase inhibitory activity, 100 ㎍/mL CE (35.31%) showed higher value than kojic acid (21.32%). The results of melanin synthesis inhibition in B16F10 melanoma cells after treatment with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone showed a similar level of activity to that of arbutin, indicating an excellent whitening effect. In clinical test of the skin composition containing CE, we confirmed that CE is non-irritated in human skin primary irritation test as well as have a high skin moisturizing and regenerative effect. From these results, we suggested the CE not only prevents skin damage and pigmentation caused by external stimuli but has remarkable skin brightening activity and skin regeneration effect.