• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.462-475
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• 2015

This paper investigated the characteristics of the physical properties of woven fabrics according to the yarn structure and fibre property. It was found that wicking property of woven fabrics made of sheath/core hybrid yarn were better than those of siro spun and siro-fil hybrid yarns, which was caused by platform for transport of moisture vapor by filaments on the core part of sheath core hybrid yarns. In drying property, the fabric specimen woven by PP/Tencel sheath core hybrid yarns as a warp and Coolmax/Tencel spun yarn as a weft showed quick drying property, which was caused by the sheath core hybrid yarn structure as drainage of water moisture and coolmax fibre characteristics as quick dry material. Concerning to breathability and thermal conductivity as heat transport phenomena, it was observed that breathability of fabrics woven with hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp and hi-multi filaments in the weft showed the lowest water vapor resistance, which was explained as due to for air gap in the fibres of the spun yarns to restrict the wet heat transport from perspiration vapor. Thermal conductivities of the fabrics woven with PET/Tencel siro-fil yarns in the weft and hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp revealed the highest values, which was observed as due to higher thermal conductivity of PET than PP and more contact point between fibres in the siro-fil and sheath core hybrid yarns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.84-97
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• 2017

Water vapor and thermal transmission properties of high emotional garments are important to evaluate wear comfort; in addition, the measuring methods of these properties are also critical for breathable and warm suit fabrics. In this study, the water vapor and thermal properties of composite yarn fabrics made of CoolMax, Tencel, and Bamboo fibers with filaments were measured and compared according to the measuring method. Water Vapor Transmittance (WVT) of the fabric woven by the sheath/core composite yarn in the warp direction was the highest due to the small staple fiber volume in the sheath/core yarn structure and high air voids in the sheath/core yarn fabrics. This property was also the highest in fabrics woven by bamboo staple yarns in the weft direction, and was the lowest on hi-multi filament fabrics. However, water vapor resistance ($R_{ef}$) of these fabrics by KSK ISO 11092 showed the opposite results to the water vapor transmittance method ($CaCl_2$ method); in addition, its correlation coefficient was low. The correlation coefficient between $R_{ef}$ and the drying rate was 0.719; therefore, the measurement mechanism of $R_{ef}$ is analogous to the drying property measurement. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics woven with compact staple yarn showed a high value; however, the hi-multi filament fabric showed low thermal conductivity. Therefore, fiber characteristics affect thermal properties more than yarn structure. The correlation between thermal property and moisture transport was also low. This study showed that: water vapor transmittance was active at the loose yarn structure, dry heat transport was vigorous at the compact yarn structure, and heat transport was affected more by fiber characteristics than yarn structure. In conclusion, sheath/core composite yarns were relevant to the high absorptive cool suit along with siro-fil and CoolMax/Bamboo staple yarns that were relevant to the heat diffusive cool suit.