• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.74-86
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• 1995

Antibacterial and deodorization properties of silk fabrics dyed with Sappan wood are investigated by Halo, Shake flask, Bioassay and Detection column methods.The results are obtained as follows; 1. Although K/S values increase with Al mordant and concentrate concentrations, these are decreased in 10% Al mordant concentration in case of 4mlg dye concentration. 2. Reduction ratios of bacteria increase with K/S values in various tests. 3. When undyed silk fabrics are treated with Al mordant, reduction ratios of bacteria are not varied with Al mordant concentrations. 4. Deodorization property of Al pre-mordanted dyeing silk fabrics is better than one of unmordanted dyeing and raw silk fabrics. 5. Antibacterial properties of Cu and Cr mordanted dyeing fabrics are better than ones of the dyeing fabrics treated with the other mordants. 6. Natural dyes extracted from Sappan wood show the good antibacterial and deodorization properties, and colorant among various components contained in Sappan wood has a excellent antibacterial and deodorization properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.661-668
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• 1997

The dyeing characteristics of acorn was investigated. The natural Fabrics-cotton, rayon and silk-were dyed repeatedly in the solution extracted from acorn, CuSO4, K2Cr2O7 and brine were used as mordants to improve color fastness. Anti-bacterial property was measured in the dyed and mordant treated fabrics. When the cotton and rayon fabrics were dyed and treated with CuSO4, their colors showed very clear. They also had good color fastness and excellent anti-bacterial property. The dyed silk fabrics had better dye absorption property than the cotton and rayon fabrics without mordant treatment. But the fabrics dyed without mordant treatment had low light fastness. The cotton, rayon and silk fabrics dyed and treated with brine were dark and unclear. An aftertreatment with CuSO4 and K2Cr2O7 made the dyed fabrics darter and more clear.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.10-18
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• 1993

Epoxy compound was synthesized from bisphellol-A with epichlorophydrine. Epoxy compound and siloxane were emulsified conjugative one or another. The water repellency of silk fabrics was also highly improved by the treatment of epoxy-siloxane mixed emulsions containing stannic chloride and zirconium oxychloride. The maximum wrinkle recovery was obtained from the fabrics treated under the condition 2.5%-epoxy-siloxane emulsion at 16$0^{\circ}C$. The breaking elongation, the reflectance, the tensile strength and the bending properties of silk fabrics were not degraded severely by the treatment of epoxy-siloxane emulsion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.9-16
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• 2008

Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.1-12
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• 2001

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosen period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into temple and excavated fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Concerning fabrics collected in temples. satin was most used, followed by twill, tabby, multiply, leno and gauze and clossing fabrics in order. Tabby and silk fabrics used Ju(紬) as their main material. Cho( ) was much more used in fabrics collected in temples than in excavated ones. This indicate that Cho( ), more luxurious than Ju(紬), had divine applications such as covering Buddha s bones of temples. Brilliant, colorful multiply fabrics using goldern and color threads had high effects of ornamenting altar covers, umbrellas, surplices and palanquins. Fabrics held in temples adapted composite designs, in which more than two shapes were used, rather than single ones. Single designs employed plant shapes in most cases. followed by treasures pattern, geometrical, cloud and animal shapes in order. Most composite designs used a combination of animal and plant shapes, followed by plant and geometry, treasures pattern and plant, cloud and animal, and animal, treasures pattern and plant in order. Few excavated fabrics used animal designs while fabrics collected in temples were often designed with shapes of propitious animals such as dragon. Treasures pattern. representing a good omen of Buddhism, was often used sing1y or sometimes compositely with another design.nother design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1011-1019
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• 1998

The natural dyestuff(squid ink) was manufactured from squid ink by boiling in 0.1% NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer. Cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics were dyed under several conditions using the manufactured squid ink to investigate the dyeability and color fastness. Dyeing was operated in acidic dyebath of pH 4 because the squid ink is anionic. Dyeabilities on wool, silk and nylon fabrics were good, especially silk fabrics were dyed deeper than others because of being amine group. But dyeability on cotton fabrics was low and developed with chitosan treatment. All the dyed fabrics showed excellent in color fastness to crocking and laundering. Also light fastness of them were excellent except nylon. The light fastness of dyed-nylon fabrics was as poor as grade 1, but they could be improved to grade 4 by aftertreatment with gallicacid. Useing the natural dyestuff-squid ink powder, we could execute whenever we want to dye fabrics in the adequate concentration. Dyeabilities were developed according to repeating times of dyeing and the increased dye concentration. We could recycle the wasting sources.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.279-285
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• 2005

In order to activate the characteristics of charcoals in fiber systems, this study was carried out to experiment with the particle size from two micrometers to ten micrometers of charcoal powders on silk fabrics. The results obtained were as follows; The silk fabrics were dyed with gray color by charcoals effectively. The K/S value, that is indicative of the dye affinity, became higher as the increase of dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing concentration. Te dyeing effects were the highest with 50%(o.w.f.) of charcoals at $100^{\circ}C$ for 120 minutes in this experiments, It was observed the surfaces of silk fibers were mainly adcorbed with charcoal powders of the particle size from two micrometers to four micrometers by scanning electron microscope. Dyed silk fabrics showed comparatively low fastness to the fade of launding, the stain of the treatment of perspirations, and the strain of water fastness test, but good fastness to the stran of laundering, te drycleaning, the fade of treatment of perspirations, and the fade of water fastness test. In connection with the functional properties of dyed fabrics, the deodorizations were drastically improved, and the far-infrared emissions improved highly, and also the antibacterials were comparatively good.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.407-414
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• 2004

A natural dye aqueous walnut shell extract was obtained by extraction of walnut shell using water at various conditions in this study. Silk fabrics were dyed at various dyeing and mordanting conditions using walnut shell extract and various mordants (Al, Cu, Fe ions). Studies have been made on the effects of dyeing and mordanting conditions on the dyeing properties and fastness (light, water and dry cleaning fastness) of dyed silk Fabric. The results obtained in this study were as follows;. The dye content in the walnut shell extract increased with increasing extraction temperature to 90℃ and extraction time to 120min, and thereafter the dye content decreased a little. The dry cleaning and water fastness of non-mordanted silk fabrics were better than those of mordanted silk fabrics.