• 제목/요약/키워드: silk fabrics

검색결과 618건 처리시간 0.025초

프랭크 로이드 라이트와 찰스 레니 맥킨토시의 가구디자인 비교 연구 (A Study on Comparing Characteristics of Frank Loyd Wright's Furniture Design with Charles Rennie Mackintosh)

  • 하숙녕;한영호
    • 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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    • 제19권6호
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    • pp.91-99
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    • 2010
  • There is a commonality between Frank Lloyd Wright and Charles Rennie Mackintosh in that they created the new patterns of geometric Art Nouveau from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This study compares the furniture of Wright and Mackintosh who had significant impacts on the development of modern design for each of the periods divided by their design feature to find the individualities and similarities of their design. It is an analytical approach with an accurate understanding of the design trends of the Art Nouveau era. The results of the furniture comparison are as follows: The finding is that Wright and Mackintosh designed creative furniture in harmony with a specific indoor space, Organic design was well expressed through the selection and use of wooden materials, Based on the understanding of tree characteristics, they did not use detailed decorations, but designed the simple and rigorous forms of furniture with highlighted interest in geometry. As for shape, Wright's furniture in his early days tend to be look largely formal and heavy. Since his debut in Japan in 1905, the furniture design became very sophisticated. On the other hand, Mackintosh's chairs are characterized by plenty of geometric patterns and long back. In many cases, his chairs were designed as part of formative elements in space, not for the purpose of furniture itself. As for materials and colors, Wright used mainly cherry wood. And he also utilized metals colored in olive green, red-brown and others for office furniture. The frames, fabrics and leather used for most of the furniture have natural colors, which are harmonious with spaces. Meantime, Mackintosh used primarily oak and ash trees. He used seat cushions and various colors to make the design of furniture have a sophisticated and simple image. The materials used for seat panel are horsehair, rush, silk and leather. He applied these materials to the furniture by weaving or cutting them.

중국 민왕조 복식에서 에 관한 연구 (A Study of Ku on the costume of the variant races dynasty in China-based on Khitai, Mongols and Manchus costume-)

  • 정복남
    • 복식
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    • 제26권
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    • pp.163-173
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the Ku which was worn by nomadic tribes which was Khitai, Mongols and Manchus. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The fur clothes were very important clothes that nomadic tribes put on in order to protect them against the cold. The Ku was an outfit for protection against the cold. It was made of ani-mal fur and its style was tight sleeve and long dress. 2. The Ku was worn in all social classes including emperor, nobles and the masses in ancient China and Asia dynasty. After the nomadic tribes estabilished dynasty in China the style of Ku was changed. All kinds of animal fur was used to make the Ku but the volume of fur, kinds and colors were classified severely by their social position. In Khitai dynasty the Ku was worn in same style. But the emperor wore the Ku of silver marten. The noble class wore the Ku of purple, black and blue marten and silver squirrel skin. The masses wore the Ku of the other colors marten, sheep, squirrel and dessert fox skin. In Mongol dynasty, the emperor wore the Ku of purple marten, silver squirrel, silver fox and black fox skin. The nobles wore the Ku of the other colors marten and squirrel. The masses wore the Ku of degraded animal fur. Before the Manchus estabilished the varient races dynasty in China, the rich man preferred the Ku of marten, squirrel, fox, goat furs. But the poorman preferred the Ku of cow, horses, pig, sheep, cat, dog, snake and deer skin. After the manchus conquered the China, the manners of dress were changed. Generally the fur did not appear in right side of garment, but high quality or noble fur appeared outside. Sometimes the inside or outside of Ku was made of silk fabrics and sleeves, neck-band was made of the high quality fur.

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조선시대 복식에 사용된 금장식 기법의 유명과 특성 (The Types and Characteristics of Golden Decoration Technique used in the Costumes of Chosun Dynasty Era)

  • 장현주;고순희
    • 복식
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    • 제56권4호
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    • pp.82-95
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of golden decoration technique out of various techniques of expressing patterns on the costumes. This study reviews both costumes decorated with gold in the relics of Chosun dynasty and literatures focused on domestic and Chinese documents and records. The types of decoration technique using gold include JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (gold powder and flake attaching technique), and GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique). The JigGeum is weaved using golden thread instead of silk thread in order to express patterns. The InGeum technique is to attach gold or silver powder or thin gold or silver flake on the surface of the fabric. The GeumSaJaSu technique is to embroider with gold thread on fabrics. 82 pieces of costumes made using gold in Chosun dynasty era are analyzed. The results follows; In terms of types of technique, is shown to take the majority; JigGeum (43.90%), InGeum (30.49%), GeumSaJaSu (23.61%). Looking at the patterns used by the types, plant pattern and letter pattern are mostly used for both the JigGeum and the inGeum. In terms of the characteristics by their uses, the InGeum is used for court dresses (52%). It is also used for ordinary dresses (12%) and for other purposes (36%). It is mostly used in the court dresses in the late period of Chosun dynasty era. The JigGeum is used for ordinary dresses (47.22%), for court dresses (44.44%) and for other purposes (8.34%). It is evenly used for court dresses and ordinary dresses.

사방오리나무가지 추출액을 이용한 견직물의 천연염색 (Natural Dyeing of Silk Fabrics with the Extract of Alnus firma Tree Branches)

  • 하영갑;이정숙
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제19권3호
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    • pp.337-343
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimal dyeing conditions and human-friendly properties of the extract from the branches of Alnus firma tree which is widely used for forestation and to provide basic information for quantification and commercialization of natural dyeing by discovering such as dye material. The optimal dyeing conditions, as a result, were shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time. In terms of dye uptake depending on the mordanting methods, it showed the best result in order of Fe, Sn, Cu and Al at pre-mordanting while found strong in order of Fe, Cu, Al and Sn at post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing and dry cleaning was found strong at grade 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at 2. The grade of change in color to rubbing and perspiration was good at 4-5. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 96.1% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneuminiae. It is considered, therefore, the extract from Alnus firma tree is of great value as an eco-friendly natural dyestuff.

용매에 따른 향나무 부위 별 색소 추출물의 견직물에 대한 염색성 (Dyability of Silk Fabrics with Juniperus chinenesis Extracts by Solvents)

  • 이정순;남기연
    • 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국염색가공학회 2012년도 제46차 학술발표회
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    • pp.69-69
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    • 2012
  • 지구상에는 약 40만 종의 식물이 존재하는 것으로 알려져 있으며 이 중에 는 질병의 치료를 위한 약재로 이용되거나 나무는 대부분 목재 등으로 이용된다. 향나무(Juniperus chinenesis L.)는 항균성 및 방충성이 뛰어난 상록수로서 목재는 조각재나 가구재로 사용되고 민간 및 한의학에서 다양한 증상의 약재로 쓰이고 있으며 부패한 냄새를 제거할 목적이나 향재 및 향료로도 쓰이고 있다. 열매의 정유성분은 화장품, 술, 캔디 등에 사용되며 cedrol은 향료보류제, 유분은 훈향료, 목부는 고혈압, 곽란, 심복통, 통기파혈에 쓰인다. 향나무는 폴레페놀 성분이 함유되어 있고 피톤치드가 많이 나오는 것으로 알려져 있으며 심재의 폴리페놀 화합물은 항암, 항균, 항알러지, 노화방지 및 심장질환 등을 예방하거나 지연시키는 등 광범위한 약리학적 활성을 나타내어 식품, 의약품, 화장품, 향료등 다양한 분야에 활용되고 있다. 향나무 추출물에 관한 연구로는 성분분석과 생리활성 등에 관한 의약학 분야의 다양한 연구와 항산화, 항균활성 등 약리작용에 연구가 최근 다양하게 이루어지고 있는 것을 볼 수 있다. 측백나무속에 속하는 나무들은 대부분 정유 성분을 함유하고 있는 특성으로 항균성 등 바이오 기능성 소재 개발을 위한 연구가 활발히 진행되고 있으나, 향나무 추출물의 염색성에 관한 연구는 찾아보기 어려운 실정이다. 이에 본 연구에서는 다양한 용매를 이용하여 향나무의 잎, 열매, 수피, 심재 각 부위 추출물을 이용하여 견직물에 대한 염색성을 살펴봄으로써 향나무 추출물을 활용한 천연염색과 염재로서의 가능성을 확인하고자 하였다. 실험 결과 증류수를 염액 용매로 염색한 결과 모든 추출물의 잎, 열매 염색포의 색상은 대부분 옅은 Y계열로 나타났으며 향나무의 수피와 심재 염색포는 대부분 적색기미가 강한 YR계열로 나타났다. 에탄올 혼합액을 염액 용매로 하여 염색한 결과 향나무의 잎과 열매의 색상은 대부분 Y계열의 색상을 나타냈고 유기용매 추출염색포에서 정유성분으로 추정되는 물질 때문에 균염이 어려웠으며 수피와 심재 염색포에서 대부분 R계열의 색상이 뚜렷이 나타났다.

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천연 쪽의 순수 염료 개발 (Pure Dyestuff Extract from Polygonum tinctoria)

  • 정인모;김현복;성규병;김영대;홍인표
    • 한국잠사곤충학회지
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    • 제47권2호
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    • pp.88-92
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    • 2005
  • 쪽잎 300g를 2.5l물에 색소를 울어 내기 위하여 사용한 초산 및 황산은 제조량에는 차이는 없었으며, 공기 공급의 경우도 30분 이후에는 큰 차이가 없었다. 쪽잎 300g에 초산(5 ml/2.5l과 암모니아수(10ml/2.5l)을 넣는 경우, 염료생산량은 1.631 g으로 가장 높았다. 전통염료와 개선 (순수) 쪽 색소 제조 방법으로 제조한 쪽이 성분과 분자량이 같은 수준 이었다. 순수 색소의 제조 쪽은 전통 염색 보다 소취성이 높았고, 정균감소율은 황색포상구균과 폐렴균이 26.3%와 19.1%이었다.

"조선왕조실록(朝鮮王朝實錄)"에 기록된 15세기 중반에서 17세기 중반의 복식금제(服飾禁制) (Regulations on Dress and Its Ornaments in the True Record of Joseon Dynasty between the mid-15th Century and mid-17th Century)

  • 박경자;고부자
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제16권4호
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    • pp.748-761
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    • 2008
  • This study was initiated out of necessity to inquire into the trend of costume regulation between the mid-15th century and mid-17th century, and what influence the change of dress and its ornaments had on the people at the time. As for the resources this study was based on, the True Record of Joseon Dynasty, which was the historical record of official compilation, was used as basic material, and the excavated relics at the time were referred to. The forbidden dress and ornaments mentioned in the records from the time of King Seonjong to the time of King Hyeonjong were classified into textiles, clothes, ornaments and dresses, according to the objects. It was designed to identify the laws and ordinances or regulations enacted by the state and the contents of discussions, which were caused by the extensive consumption of silk gauze and fabrics and the luxury in dress and ornaments, and the phenomenon induced by the consumption desire of the social class with economic power, and to help understand the cause. So to speak, the law and ordinance or regulations were established to solve the social problems caused by the failure in controlling dress and ornaments wearing based on social position, during the process in which the king and court officials were making effort to intensify their political power in each regime.

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천연염료 염색포의 생활용품 활용에 관한 연구 (Study on the Utilization of Natural Dyeing Materials as Household Supplies)

  • 주영주
    • 복식
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    • 제56권3호
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    • pp.73-80
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    • 2006
  • This study is aimed to produce natural dyeing garments, which contain the sentiments and color sense of Koreans, by using various household supplies, with a view to increase the values added and utilization of natural dyeing. The dyes mainly used for this study are multi-colored ones which are durable after dyeing and can represent various colors. They include Lithodpermum officinale, Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia Cordifolia, Pellodendron Bak, Curcuma Longa L., fallen Ginkgo Biloba, Artemisia Princeps, and Quereus acutissima carr shell. Considering water pollution and other things, aluminum acetate and ferrous chloride were used as mordants. Cheap and practical materials such as cotton cloth and those with traditional patterns and elegance such as silk and ramie fabrics were used to produce baby goods, household supplies, clothes, and accessories. The produced supplies closely contact with our body, so they may have a great effect on human body. The household supplies produced include rug, bedclothes, room bedclothes, curtain, bedding set, cushion, and sunlight blind, in consideration of the functionality or medical actions of the goods which are closely related to the human skin. The infant supplies produced include longcloth for newborn baby, bedding set, gauze handkerchief, and doll. The clothes include night gown, shirt, bath gown, and Korean traditional clothes. The accessories include tablecloth, cup pad, bag, wrapping cloth, mouse and keyboard cushion, and scarf. Nowadays, consumers prefer environment-friendly naturally dyed garments and products. In order to control the naturally dyed garments and products which are traded in the domestic market, it is urgent to introduce such ecological marks as 'Toxproof' and 'Ecoproof.' Currently, many ordinary persons, who are not experts, have interest and participate in natural dyeing, but they simply produce naturally dyed garments, not artistic works or everyday supplies. The present author expects this study will contribute to the production of household goods by such persons. The author also hopes that they will develop and commercialize such designs as suit to modern tastes and senses based on the unique cultural assets of Koreans, so that Korean naturally dyed products may be recognized as reliable commodities equipped with international competitiveness.

한북직물업체의 생산 및 유통구조에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Economic Performance of the Textile Industry for Korean traditional Clothes)

  • 조효숙
    • 복식
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    • 제34권
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    • pp.135-150
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study was to inves-tigate the economic performance of the textile industry for the Korean traditional clothes. The content of this paper had two pars; The first part was for the macroeconomic aspects such as location production employments and the produc-tion facilities of the textile industries. The second part was for the microeconomic aspects such as business type branding method fabric type R&D efforts sourc-ing and the distributional channel The major results were as follows: 1.) Most textile firms for the korean traditional clothes were located in Gongju for man-made fibers and in Jinju for silk fabrics. 2) The size of the textile industry in terms of the number of business produc-tion amount the number of employee de-creased during 1994 and 1995 due to the decreasing demand. 3) Over the half of the textile firms produced raw fabric products while only 20% of them were involved in additional dyeing and /or printing finish which re-sulted in low value added production 4) The R&D effort of the textile indus-try for the Korean traditional clothes was very low due to the market uncertainty lack of technological knowledge and most of all small size of the firms 5) Most raw materials for the textile in -dustry were imported with high(25%) tariff rates resulting in price increase and thus low competitiveness in the market. 6) The textile producers sole about the 70% of their products to the wholesalers while selling the rest to the retailers di-rectly. This showed the dual structure of the distribution channel in the textile products. These results suggested some implica-tions for the firms the policy makers and the researchers. The firms should develop new and improved products to increase and create consumer demand by intensive R&D efforts. The government policy ma-kers should give financial supports the firms with R&D investment and legal help such as lowing tariff rate for the raw ma-terials. The researchers from the academy could help the textile industry with the advanced technological knowledge and up-date information for the consumer fashion demand.

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중세 무용의상의 조형성에 관한 연구 (13C-15C중심) (A Study on Formality the Dancing Costume of Middle Age (Focus on 13C-15C))

  • 임상임;김경희
    • 복식
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    • 제53권1호
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    • pp.1-15
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    • 2003
  • This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the middle age with their normal style of dress. In brief, this study wants people to know about middle a9e dancing costumes and understand the culture in the middle ages. It was found that people's everyday clothes in the middle age such as Surcot. Surcot-ouvert, Pourpoint, Houppelande were used as dancing costumes. They were, however. changed from the public's clothes which were tight and long. Rather than wearing costume over others. dancers wore costumes which had slits on skirt or sleeves to increase motion. With the Wild Man of the Wood's which only nobles used for their dancing costumes. costumers highlighted the beauty of human body There were various costume materials used in the middle ages like silk. cotton fabrics, linen or brocade. These materials were used for Surcot and Pourpoint as dancing costumes. The naturalness of nature or geometric patterns also was expressed on the costumes. Further about those patterns, because the development of stained glass, vivid colors were used especially red, light green, blue etc. As for the hair styles used, dancers let their hair down and put a jeweled crown over their hair. In summation. dancers wore the same clothes that normal People did, but the costumes were different depending on social status and gender. The costumes of ordinary people's were based upon ordinary clothes that moved and emphasized the dynamic motion. On the other side, the court dancers' costumes were very fancy. symbolizing a measurement of nobles' from wealth and authority. as well as an expression of a sense of beauty, The main features of middle ages follows. : To emphasize vitality, there were long slits on the side of skirt. Hair decorations and jewels are more used than in the ancient age's. To hide a dancer's social status. they could use a mask. Wild Man of the Wood's was used for the body makeup. All these features of the dancing costumes must contribute to the progress of the dance in the middle age's.