• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.109-114
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• 2004

The purpose of this study lies in analyzing the characteristics of the carbonized textile fabrics and to know the carbonizing mechanism. Samples were Jiyo excavated from the grave of Mrs. Hansan Lee as the wife of Jinju Kang at Daeduk-gu, Daejon, and black fragements assumed as of the outside material of cotton skirt and black dusts collected out of Jikryung for official dress. The composition and status of the fiber were clarified by means of Microscopic FT-IR and both cross sectioanl and side parts of the fiber were observed using the technique of scanning electron microscopy(SEM). Finally EDS analysis was carried out to qualitatively analyze inorganic ingredients contained in the carbonized fiber. As a result of FT-IR measurement, characteristic peak was very strong around $1625cm^{-1}$ and could be found even between 2500 and $2300cm^{-1}$ because of a high-molecule pigmental substance, melanine. When SEM photography was applied to the fractions, the tissues were identified as silk fiborine through the observation of their side and cross sectional parts. SEM-EDS measurement indicated that both the cotton skirt and Jikryung for official dress contained a high proportion of inorganic substances such as Si, Ca suggesting the existence of silicide and calcium carbonate.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.607-620
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• 2020

The aim of this study is to define the new expressive techniques for multicolored clamp resist (hyuphill) dyeing, based on empirical verification on relics that are estimated to be dyed by the exchange of more than two wood blocks: a previously undiscovered technique. Clamp resist dyeing (assumed to be made by exchanging wood blocks) have uneven resist printing lines or cloudy gradation. These are reproduced as follows: first, they have uneven contour lines, particularly with the color blue. It is possible to exchange wood blocks separately on patterns with uneven resist printing lines, and it has been verified that the exchange of wood blocks makes these irregular resist printing lines. It has also been verified that exchanging the wood blocks according to the gradation (to emphasize the cubic effect on the patterns) yields clamp resist dyeing with no resist printing lines but with cloudy gradations that have accented borders. This study provides basic information that enables methods of multicolored clamp resist dyeing through wood block exchange to be deduced (something that has not been attempted for a long time). Thus, the revival of the modern Korean dyeing culture based on the conservation and perseverance of the traditional dyeing techniques can be achieved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.103-112
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• 1981

In Koryo Dynasty, during the reign of uijong, Choe Yun-ui and others countries collected the royal orders of the Koryo kings and adopted the Tang institutions, and compiled 50 volumes of a book, called "Detailed Ceremonies of Old and New." Recording about clothing, with a special focus on dress and its ornaments of armed vassals, when they attend the king while he is conducting his business. 1) As for the headgear's were the Pokdu, Moja, Kwan, Tumo (official hat to be worn with armors) and Malye (for protection against the cold). There were II kinds of headgear's name in all. 2) As for the clothes, (1) Kongbok (formal costume) (2) Dress, there were 34 kinds of clothes name differented by (i) flowerage on clothes (ii) size of sleeves (iii) color of clothes (iv) fabrics (v) the belt used with the dress. Others were; (3) Baeja (4) Hansam, (5) Poto, and (6) Armor. 3) As for colors of clothes, there were (i) Purple, (ii) Red(Scarlet), (iii) Green, (iv) Blue, (v) Yellow, (vi) Black and (vii) White. 4) As for materials, there were (i) Kum, Ra, Sa (all kinds of silk), (ii) Iron and (iii) Leather. 5) For belts, there were (i) Sockdae, (ii) Hongjung, (iii) Kayeundae, (iv) Dongdokum-dae, (v) Jojung and (vi) Dongshimsokdae.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.23-23
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• 2011

신라는 유잠국을 거쳐 새로운 비단이라는 신라(新羅)로 국호를 변경한다. 신라 뽕나무와 비단의 행방을 �O는다면 실크로드의 출발점이 한반도의 신라의 땅이라는 추정에 의거하여 1995년부터 조사를 하였다. 특히 삼국사기의 내용을 기초로 하여 한반도의 지명을 방문하여 조사하는 과정에서 삼국사기의 내용이 전혀 한반도에는 정확하게 일치하지 않는다는 사실을 확인하였다. 1. 신라는 한반도에 없었다. 최근 한학자이신 이중재님이 발표한 논문과 책자를 기초로 조사 검정을 하는 중에 고구려, 신라 백제가 한반도에 없었다는 사실을 확인 하였다. 2. 중국고금지명대사전(1931)을 중국 청도에서 섬유공장장으로 근무하는 정윤화친구의 도움으로 구입하여 이중재의 책의 내용을 검정하였다. 그러므로 신라의 비단과 양잠을 한반도에서 확인하는 것은 잘못된 사실이라는 것을 확인하였다. 3. 삼국사기의 내용을 중국고금지명사전을 이용하여 확인한 결과 그동안 의문으로 되어 있는 임라설, 가야설, 고구려 신라 백제의 강역, 문익점 선생의 최초의 목화에 대한 사실 등 모든 사실을 잘못된 내용이라는 것을 확인 검정하였고, 현재의 한반도의 역사는 식민주의 역사학자들이 한반도의 역사를 왜곡한 사실을 확인하였다. 4. 한반도에서는 고려시대 이전에는 나라 형태의 국가는 없었고, 조선시대부터 국가의 형태가 성립되었다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.128-140
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• 2016

In this study, dyeability of Urtica Dioica L. extract, which is relatively less studied, was measured. The extract of this plant was used to dye cellulose and protein fiber to check its usage as a natural green dye. Three different methods were used to produce extract. Dried Urtica Dioica L. was extracted with 100% ethanol, 50% ethanol with 50% distilled water and 100% distilled water. Then dyeing solution was obtained by blending with distilled water at 1-to-1 ratio. The maximum dyeability was obtained when 100% ethanol extract of dried Urtica Dioica L. used to dye fabrics at 60 degrees celsius for 60 minutes without mordant treatment. Cotton, rayon, wool and silk were dyed and dyeability for each fiber was measured for color difference value then compared to its control. The results show that dyeability of rayon and dyeability of wool are stronger, and that when color position for each mordant is measured, color difference is most diverse on cotton with pre-mordant treatment. Color fastness to wash, perspiration and rubbing crockmeter were superb, but color fastness to light was low, therefore, additional study on this is needed to improve. Urtica Dioica L. is now expected to be used practically as green color dye as well as medicinally and edible.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.161-171
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• 2022

Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.4-17
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• 2011

The Baekje's cotton fabrics were excavated from 'Neungsan-ri temple site in Buyeo' (September 1999-April 2000) and stored at Buyeo National Museum after conservation treatment. In this study, it carred out non-destructive, chemical and morphological analysis for fiber identification, also considered on influx, features and difference between the 'Baek-cheop-po(Three kingdom period's cotton fiber)' and 'Mok-myeon(imported by Munikjeom, late Korea dynasty)'. As a result, the fiber proved cellulose fiber through analytical researches like color reaction, FT-IR(chemical analysis). It was also confirmed lumens, typical dimensional structure(morphological analysis) as an features of cotton fiber. The fiber was the first evidence in ancient Korea's cotton. But it can not prove that whether weaving were made in Baekje's area. However there were documentation that people in Beakje make cloth to silk fabric from 'Mahan period'. We can suppose that they have had an old weaving techniques. This study has a great historical, academic values as the only evidence for the hypothesis of a weaving technique of the Baekje's cotton. Through comparison to each region's ancient cottons, we can investigate the species of Baekje's cotton and ancient Korea cotton's influx.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.263-273
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• 2011

Digital textile printing(DTP) technology made considerable advances in recent years. In this study, a pre-treatment agent has been prepared for the better coloration of digital textile printing. The ink formulation contained three kinds of 5g thickener (CMC, Sodium alginate, Dextrin), 25g urea, 5g sodium carbonate, and 465g distilled water. The optimal sharpness of outline was found in the 1-3% concentration of the pre-treating agent with a viscosity of 10-15 cSt. Even if the color difference between untreated and treated samples was not apparent in the printing step, the color appearance increased after steaming. The color appearance of cyan, magenta, yellow, black reactive colorants increased in the order of CMC>Sodium alginate>Dextrin. Wash fastness to shade change and staining for the treated samples were 4-5 rating, while untreated sample was 1-2 rating. Also, the pre-treated sample with 1:1 mixtures had 4-5 rating. Both dry and wet rubbing fastness to shade change and staining were excellent in the treated samples, whereas rubbing fastness of untreated sample was 1-2 rating. With exception of 3 rating to black color, light fastness properties were 4 rating for the remaining three colors in the regardless of treatment condition and mixing of pre-treating agents. Dry cleaning fastness of all samples were also 4-5 rating irrespective of treatment condition and mixing of pre-treating agents.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.860-876
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• 2013

The pattern cases for Korean traditional socks are named "beoseonbongip" which means a pouch to keep patterns for making "beoseon". "Beoseon" is Korean traditional socks. This study is to identify characteristics of the pattern cases and to develop cultural products based on the unique characteristics of the pattern cases. One hundred fifty one photos of "beosonbongip" were collected and quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. Seventy percent of them were made between Joseon Dynasty and 1960s. As a result, most of the collected pattern cases are rectangular and square shapes, red color, and silk fabrics, and sizes of them are from 9cm to 15cm. A few pattern cases with different sizes and colors were also observed. Most pattern cases were made by fixing two among four triangle pieces which made by folding four tips of a rectangular or square cloth and then puting a not or a loop on the remaining triangle pieces in order to open and close the pattern cases. In a small number of the pattern cases, three of the four pieces were fixed and a button, a bead, a broach, or two nots or two loops were put on the other piece for opening and closing. Products such as apparels, bags, pouches, frames, and key holders were made using "beoseonbongip" form and construction method. This shows that "beoseonbongip" is a useful motive for creative product development.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.661-672
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• 2015

In this study, nine scarf designs expected to be effective for accent design for the fashion style of new senior women were suggested by reflecting purchase behavior and scarf preference after conducting surveys and an analysis by targeting 136 new senior women in order to propose scarf design-matching with the preferences of new seniors. As a result of the study on the scarf purchase features of new seniors, it was revealed that the purchase time for scarves was mainly autumn and winter, even though it is regardless of season, and in spring and summer, they seldom purchased scarves. The purchase frequency was four times a year, and what they first thought of at the time of purchase was represented in the order of color, design, and the material of the scarf. They most preferred department stores, mixed and achromatic colors, cotton and silk fabrics, natural and geometric patterns, and long scarves of a rectangular shape. In the case of the consumer attributes of scarves, it was revealed that $50^{th}$ desired more individuality-oriented, unique scarf designs than $60^{th}$, and $60^{th}$ desired scarf designs with convenient management considering others' attention compared with $50^{th}$. As concepts for scarf designs, the aspects of individuality, co-existence, and maturity were extracted by reflecting the features of new senior women, and a total of nine scarf designs were suggested by developing three sub-designs for each concept.