• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1353-1360
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a cultural products design of korean image using fabrics. The study is carry out in literature research methods and make sample product. We examine existing researches about cultural product design development to understand developed items, materials, and design directions. The brainstorming method and the established literature researches were used to obtain the design components of Korean image. A cultural products design was developed into the decorative structural details. The results can be summarized as follows: Korean image is pure, passive, gentle, small, and lasting life-force at weeds and wild flowers. Korean form is rounded curve and soft silhouette as streamy, not exaggerate. Korean color is not a finishing treatment, non-dyed natural color, or pastel, light greyish, and dull tone. Korean textile is a natural materials as linen, ramie, and coarse silk. Final sample products are table supplies, home goods and bed goods applying the sewing method of tuck, quilting, top-stitching, patch work, applique and embroidery.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.551-561
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• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.19-27
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Sophora japonica L. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Sophora japonica L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Sophora japonica L. solution was 367.6mn, rutin solution was 365.6mn. The color of Sophora japonica L. solution was affected at pH 2 and pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Sophora japonica L. was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 10$0^{\circ}C$, 60min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment, especially Fe, Sn, Cr. In the case of Sophora japonica L. light fastness was increased by Fe mordanting. Perspiration fastness was better in acidic solution than that in alkaline solution. Fastness to rubbing and dry-cleaning were good in general.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2000.11a
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• pp.140-144
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• 2000

본 연구는 소비자의 라이프스타일에 따라 견직물에 대한 감각·감성의 차이가 있는지를 분석하고, 라이프스타일별 촉감선호도와 구매선호도 차이를 규명함으로써 견직물의 소재 디자인시 감성관련정보를 제공하고자 한다. 라이프스타일에 따라 감각형용사는 ‘거칠다, 우글쭈글하다, 촘촘하다’등에서 보수파가 캐주얼파보다 높은 평가하였으며, 감성형용사는 ‘개성적이다, 독특하다’등에서는 보수파가 캐주얼파보다 높게 평가하였으며 ‘클래식하다’는 보수파가 캐주얼파보다 높게 평가하였다. 또한, ‘캐주얼하다, 액티브하다, 신선하다’는 보수파가 캐주얼파보다 높게 평가하였다. 세 clluster별로 촉감선호도와 구매선호도를 분석한 결과 cluster 2를 가장 ‘촉감이 좋다, 구매시 선호한다’라고 하였다. 촉감선호도는 라이프스타일에 따라 유의한 차이가 없었으나 구매선호도에서는 라이프스타일에 따라 유의한 차이가 있었다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2001.11a
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• pp.1-4
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• 2001

본 연구에서는 실크 직물 7종의 마찰음을 녹음한 후, 색채 변환시켜 소리와 변환색채에 e한 감성을 평가함으로써 시각과 청각을 만족시킬 수 있는 의류소재 개발에 대한 기초자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 피험자 30명을 대상으로 소리와 변환색채를 차례로 제공한 후 감성을 평가하도록 하였다. 물리량은 소리의 경우 LPT, $\Delta$L, $\Delta$f, ARC를 색채의 경우 RP, GP, BP, CC를 계산하여 감성과의 관계를 조사하였다. 소리와 색채에 대한 감성차원으로는 '우아함', '활동감', '터프함'의 세요인이 도출되었다. 각 감성차원에 대한 소리와 색채 물리량과의 관계를 살펴보면, LPT와 $\Delta$L이 작을수록, 홍색비율이 크고 색채빈도수가 적을수록 우아함차원으로 평가하였으며, LPT와 $\Delta$L의 값이 클수록, 녹색비율이 크고 색채빈도수가 많을수록 활동감차원으로 평가하였다. 또한 ARC값이 작을수록, 홍색비율이 클수록 터프함차원으로 나타났다. 직물별 소리와 색채에 대한 선호도는 전통적인 수자직 직물이 가장 높게 나타났다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2002.11a
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• pp.209-214
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• 2002

본 연구는 고부가가치의 섬유를 개발하기 위해서 얻어진 다양한 태 특성을 가진 직물의 적절한 용도를 감각적 감성평가를 통해 밝히려는 목적을 가지고, 첫번째 단계로 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지로 가공처리한 견직물의 선호감성에 영향을 미치는 직물의 개별감각특성을 알아보고자 하였다. 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 이용하여 다양한 강경성이 부여된 견직물에 대한 인간의 주관적인 감각을 평가하고 객관적인 특성과 연관지어 보았다. 강경성이 다르게 제작된 견직물과 시판모시로 구성된 9종류의 직물의 까실까실하다, 매끄럽다, 습하게 느껴진다, 뻣뻣하다, 차다, 하늘하늘하다의 6개의 개별감각과 촉감이 좋다와 여름철소재로 선호한다의 종합적 평가를 행하여 9종류의 직물의 위치도를 작성하여 여름철소재의 선호감성과 촉감, 직물개별감각과의 관계를 분석하였다. 분석결과 여름철소재의 선호감성에 영향을 주는 직물의 개별감각은 부드러워서 촉감은 좋지만 까실까실한 감각이 있어 다소 차게 느껴지는 감각임을 알 수 있었으며 의마가공된 견직물이 여름철 소재로 선호됨을 확인 할 수 있었다.

• Proceedings of the KAIS Fall Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.233-235
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• 2001

실크 생지직물에 대해 정련날염호로 무늬를 인날하고 증열 처리함으로써 무의 부분만 정련이 되도록 하는 정련날염 기술을 개발하여 모시 섬유와 같이 뻣뻣하면서 시원한 질감이 나는 정련되지 않은 생직물 부분과 정련에 의해 유연하고 매끄러우면서 광택이 나는 비단 부분이 동시에 한 직물에 공존하면서 입체적인 무의 표현이 가능한 독특하고 새로운 실크 직물을 개발하였다. 또한 산성염료 둥의 합성염료로 염색된 실크 생지직물과 천연염료로 염색된 실크 생지직물에 대해서 정련날염과 동시에 무의 부분의 바탕색을 빼내고 착색을 고착시키는 발염의 특수날염 기술을 개발하여 다양한 색상에 의한 무늬 표현이 가능하게 함으로써 고부가가치 실크직물을 생산할 수 있도록 되었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.757-763
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• 1999

The burn-out technique is used to result in the velvet cloth being patterned in open and solid areas by carbonize the cellulose fiber. It is examined how to burn out the cellulose part of the velvet without damage of the other part. The print paste indalca solution is mixed with sodium hydrogensulfate and lycerine and then screen-printed on the back side of the velvet. The effects of process conditions such as concentration of sodium hydrogensulfate dry heat fixation temperature and time pull no. and glycerine contents on the properties of ground farics were investigated. The yellowness index and the breaking load of silk ground fabrics afected by the process conditions especially concentration of sodium hydrogensulfate dry heat fixation temperature.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.127-141
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• 2008

This article found that establish of the new study, "Archaeology of Textile", and its process of development based on the Silk Road from China. Archaeology of Textile which is formed by the modern archeology in the 20 centuries developed is a research focused on textile and is required experts knowledge of archaeology, natural science, and history of textile. Textiles are the most difficult to handle of existing antiquities and it is rare to be excavated perfectly. However, the early archaeologists were interested in the Silk Road inconsistently. There were various kinds of silk and embroidery in the center of excavation process. In China, there are still numerous textiles have been excavating from across the country which has leaded to the top level of the textile study in the world. Compare to China, Korea hasn't excavated textile much, and we've been having a difficulty to research with small pieces of textile fabrics. With lack of understanding of textile, it is insignificant to excavate relic such as Chunma-Chong(天馬塚), tomb of king Muryeong(武寧王陵) which has started in-depth studying after 30 years later since it was discovered. Accordingly, a history of archeological textile will be introduced and make sure the possibility of study of excavated textile will make sure through this study.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.385-394
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to compare and analyze visual images between the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation with the various fabrics of flare skirts and to analyze the correlation between mechanical properties and visual images. The picture images (printed on paper) of the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation of experimental flare skirts were shown to the evaluation group of women in their 20s majoring in clothing and textiles, and were evaluated by questionnaires with 32 adjectives. SPSS Version 12.0 statistics program was utilized to analyze data. Factor analysis, One Way ANOVA, T-test and Duncan test were used to investigate visual effect of the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation. As the result of conducting factor analysis on the visual appearance, the images were driven with five factors: 'drapeability', 'attractive', 'body compensation', 'bulkiness', 'activeness'. Visual images were significantly related with mechanical properties of various fabrics, and the visual images between 3D garment simulations and real garment differed with various fabrics and their mechanical properties. Visual images of silk and polyester group, cotton, linen and wool group were significantly related with weight and thickness of kinds of fabrics.