• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.16-25
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• 1984

The sericin fixation of silk fabrics by epoxy resins was studied in the presence of aqueous salt solution in different solvents at the indicated temperature for the desired time. Heavy weight gains were obtained in the reaction with glycerol diglycidyl ether (EX-313) and ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (EX-810) catalyzed by potassium thiocyanate in such solvents as carbon tetrachloride and p-chloroethylene. The obtained results were summarized as follows; 1) The tested resins were found similar in reaction behavior to silk fabric. The effect of fixation and weight gains was higher in EX-810 than EX-313. 2) The weight gains were increased with reaction time and temperature, and degumming ratio reached a constant value in 90 min at 70$^{\circ}C$. 3) The weight gains and the degumming ratio reached an equilibrium at 3-5% of epoxy concentration. 4) The weight gains were remarkably influenced and increased by the concentration of salt solution. The degumming ratio reached an equilibrium over 0.5N concentration of salt. 5) The weight gains were increased with the dipping time in gently-sloping. The degumming ratio reached an equilibrium over 15 min dipping. 6) The effect of sericin fixation of hydrophobic solvents, such as Carbon Tetrachloride, p-Chloroeth-ylene, Cyclohexane, Xylene and Toluene, was found suitable. 7) The effect of drying temperature was not remarkable on the weight gains and the degumming ratio. 8) There was a slight decrease in the moisture regain of sericin-fixed silk and it may be possible to maintain the moisture regain in the sericin-fixed silk by the epoxy resins. 9) The results on testing physical properties of sericin-fixed silk fabric were as follows; The crease recovery was almost not different from undegummed fabric, but inferior to degummed fabric. The tensile strength was improving in accordance with the effect of sericin fixation, either the elongation did.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.911-921
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• 1997

Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace and reactionism in fashion. Indigo dyeing, safflower dyeing and Gal-ott in Cheju-Do become generally known, so the study about the natural dyeing is continued with national intrust and support. In this study, 1 used artemisia for various dyeing tests because we can get it easily. 1 tested the dyeability in wool as well as cotton and silk with wormwood in natural dyeing material. I also dyed nylon with the same material for the comparison of the molecular structure. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment were done in cotton to improve the low dyeability in the natural dyeing. The result of this study are as follows; We have to dye repeatedly to get deep color in natural dyeing, and mordant treatment brought good result in color difference and dyeing fastness. 1. Compared with silk, wool and nylon, the dyeability of cotton was the worse. The color difference of cotton was 18.81 without mordants , and 24.05 with mordant. The dyeability of cotton was much increased by mordants such as potassiumdichromate, copper sulfate, iron sulfate and salt water. The color of cotton was turned into yellow-green in potassium dichromate and yellow-green with deep green in copper sulfate. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment of cotton made the improvement in color, dyeability, laundering fastness, abrasion fastness. 2. The color difference of silk was 3 times as high as cotton. It showed the similar degree with the chitosan treated-cotton. That is to say, silk had good dyeability because it contains amino group and carboxyl group. The dyebility of silk was increased by a mordant such as iron sulfate, potassium dichromate and salt water, Drycleaning fastness showed 5 grade, abrasion-fastness was high over 4~5 grade and sunlight fastness showed 1 grade in all case. 3. The color difference of wool was the best among four fabrics because of 18 kinds of amino acids. It is considered that the sulfate of wool has the polarity and help metal- mordants get the better dyeability such as potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, and aluminum chloride. The color was reddish-green in potassium dichromate, yellow.greenin iron sulfate and copper sulfate, and yellow in the rest mordants. Drycleaning fastness of wool showed over 4~5 grade, abrasion fastness 5 grade. Sunlight-fastness 1 grade. 4. The dyeability of nylon was almost same because of the similar molecular structure with silk. The clarity of color was poor. The color was yellow-green in copper sulfate and yellow in the rest mordants. Laundering fastness and abrasion-fastness of nylon was good. Sunlight- fastness represented 1 grade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.85-95
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• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.475-484
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to help to prevent daily noises by measuring the noise absorption coefficient of the non-woven fabrics and wallpapers which are commonly used in lining and noise absorption coefficient of lining curtain. Seven types of fiber materials for the interior decoration, one non-woven fabric for the wallpaper linings, and two types of textiles for curtain linings are used as the experimental materials in this study. The noise absorption coefficient of the noise absorbents were measured by using impedance tube. And the thermal transmittance were measured by using thermal transmittance tester. The results of this study are as follows; Observing the noise absorption efficiency of each experimental materials, the combination of fiber materials and linings, the noise absorption efficiency of cotton, polyester and silk were similar and for the experimental materials of flax, rayon, acrylic and nylon were resulted the similar noise absorption efficiency. The result of combination of fiber material and black fabric was highest among the combined linings. For the combination of fiber material and non-woven fabric, double layers of non-woven fabric resulted slightly higher noise absorption coefficient result than single layer of non-woven fabric. The thermal transmittance and the sound absorbents of experimental materials were affected by the thickness, density and layer of air of the experimental materials.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.30-42
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• 2016

The objective of this study was to perform 3D solid modeling from 3D scanned surface images of cotton and silk in order to calculate the thermal heat transfer responses using numerical simulations. Continuing from the previous methodology, which provided 3D surface data for a fabric through optical measurements of the fabric microstructure, a simplified 3D solid model, containing a defined unit cell, pattern unit and fabric structure, was prepared. The loft method was used for 3D solid-model generation, and heat transfer calculations, made for the fabric, were then carried out using the 3D solid model. As a result, comprehensive protocols for 3D solid-model generation were established based on the optical measurements of real fabric samples. This method provides an effective means of using 3D information for building 3D models of actual fabrics and applying the model in numerical simulations. The developed process can be used as the basis for other analogous research areas to investigate the physical characteristics of any fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.2 s.8
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• pp.50-64
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• 2006

This study was performed the analysis on the final usage and the pattern type of Jacquard fabrics through the surveyed data from the domestic and foreign textile fashion magazines[Book Moda, Fashion biz, Vogue] during recent 5 years(2000-2004). The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1 Jacquard fabric mostly applies to apparel followed by accessory, interior decoration and bedding. As classified by uses, in apparel, it applies to One-pieces most followed by jackets and coats. In interior decoration, Slipcover uses Jacquard fabric most and then cushions, curtains and carpets. In accessory, neck ties use it most and then hand bags, hats and mufflers. In bedding, Jacquard fabric evenly applies to sheets, pillows, blankets and coverlet. 2. As classified by uses above, flowered patterns apply to each use most followed by geometric patterns, abstract patterns, ethnic patterns, art patterns and animal patterns. In addition, flowered patterns apply to apparel most and then interior decoration, accessory and bedding. Geometric patterns apply to apparel, accessory, interior decoration and bedding orderly. It is researched that abstract patterns and ethnic patterns also apply to apparel partially.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.229-230
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• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.18-26
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• 2012

In this work, colorants extraction process from gromwell was studied for making powder form of colorants by solving the high viscosity problem of gromwell extracts. In order to do that, sugar extracted together with colorants must be pre-extracted. For sugar decomposition, gromwell roots were pretreated with various enzyme solutions. The total sugar content of pre-extract with enzyme solution was measured. Accordingly, the effects of enzyme type and pretreatment condition on sugar decomposition were investigated to find appropriate enzyme(amylase, hemicellulase, pectinase) and enzyme activity (100~1000unit), pre-extracted time(3~24hr). Color characteristics and dye uptake of dyed fabrics were evaluated. Gromwell colorants were assessed for their potential antimicrobial activities, which possibly expand their end use as functional pigments. The efficiency of removing sugar was increased in the order of hemicellulase, pectinase, amylase, $H_2O$. Gromwell colorants powder yield was in the range of 4.4% to 9.8% depending on pretreatment enzyme. Gromwell colorants produced RP color on the silk and wool fabrics with good dye uptake. Antimicrobial activity of gromwell colorants will greatly increase its potentiality for applying as functional natural colorants in the future.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.195-207
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• 2016

In this study, we examined the influence of the pigment characteristic and dyeing condition on dyeing properties and functionality by using Perilla Frutescens L. Britt extracts, in which ethanol, distilled water and NaOH solution were used as 3 different solvents. Changes in dyeing conditions include variations in dye concentration, dyeing temperature, time and pH on dye uptake, and K/S values were compared according to these changes. Additionally, color changes were observed according to the use and types of mordant. Ultraviolet-visible spectrum was utilized to investigate the pigment characteristic, and as a result, chlorophyll was identified in ethanol extract, whereas tannin was identified both in distilled water extract and NaOH solution extract. By using FT-IR analysis, these tannins in distilled-water-extract and NaOH solution extract were verified to be hydrolyzable tannin. When dyeing silk, dye uptake increased as dye concentration, dyeing temperature and time increased, while it decreased as pH of the extract increased. Fabrics dyed without a mordant produced Y-series colors, and fabrics dyed with mordants showed various colors depending on the mordant types. Even though color fastness to washing and light was unsatisfactory, fastness to rubbing and perspiration showed relatively high grade. Moreover, deodorant ability of dyed fabric improved.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.138-150
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• 2012

Nano Inkjet DTP technology, a new technology introduced recently, can be applied to various types of fabric, and pre-treatment process can be omitted, which makes the whole printing process compact. Some important factors for DTP are color difference between the color selected by the designer on PC and the color on the final product and durability of the final fabrics. In this study, the twenty-three trend colors of 2012-2013 F/W suggested by PeclersParis have been picked to be printed on cotton, silk and polyester fabrics, then K/S and ${\Delta}E$ value and color fastness were measured. The results show that dyeability of fabric is varied for each color group, and that also tone of color affect to dyeability when measured for colors in the same group. In general, for all fabric, light fastness, washing fastness and color fastness to sublimation are outstanding. However, because of poor rubbing fastness, additional treatment to fix colorant on fabric is required.