• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• Horticultural Science & Technology
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.447-456
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• 2013

This study was carried out for the establishment of theory and foundational data for breeding, on variegated foliage plants using for potted plants, based on examination and analysis for shape, color, and area ratio of variegated leaves and chlorophyll contents. Six families, 18 genus, and 54 species of variegated plants domestically distributed in Korea were used as the plant materials. Patterns based on chlorophyll-deficient part in variegated leaves were divided into 20 types, such as steps, border, collapsed border, sandy border, half, silk, stars, vein, firewood, border and firewood, center, entirety, leaf, irregular, net, watermelon, melon, and so on. There were 10 kinds of colors including dark green, red, dark red, reddish white, reddish yellow, white, silver, silvery white, yellowish white, and yellow. The ratio of variegated area was ranged from 5.8% to 100% and it was diverse depending on species or cultivar. The ratios by patterns were highest in entirety (98.6%) and relatively high in step (60.8%), whereas, low in boarder, star and firewood (33.6-36.4%), and relatively low in half and vein (43%). Chlorophyll content of variegated leaf was rather lower compared to normal plants and chlorophyll b tended to be higher in ratio of chlorophyll a to b. Particularly content of chlorophyll b in Stromanthe sanguinea 'Triostar', Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana Compacta', D. reflexa 'Song of India', and Tradescantia spathacea was higher than chlorophyll a in comparison with that of normal plants.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.72-77
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• 2021

Silkworms have traditionally been used to produce silk and textiles. However, steamed and freeze-dried mature silkworm larval powder (SMSP) contain large amounts of amino acids, vitamins, and essential minerals. In this study, we investigated the potential of SMSP as a hangover-relieving agent. Thirty individuals who met the selection criteria and exclusion criteria were included in the study and subsequently underwent a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled, cross-design human application test. Importantly, the test product containing SMSP (CKDHC) was proven to alleviate hangovers through a significant reduction in the plasma concentration of acetaldehyde in the context of an alcohol-induced hangover model. In particular, from 0.5 h after SMSP intake, the blood acetaldehyde concentration (mg/L), area under the time curve (AUC; indicating the degree of bioabsorption of blood acetaldehyde), and the highest blood acetaldehyde concentration (Cmax) were reduced. Altogether, these results suggest that the test product (CKDHC) exhibits an accelerated hangover-relieving effect.

• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.117-124
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• 2019

Objective : Chronic acid reflux esophagitis (CARE), one of gastroesophageal reflux disease (GERD) is increasing worldwide. Coptidis rhizoma extract (CRE) is a traditional herb that cures a variety of diseases. This study was conducted to evaluate the protective effect of CR on rats with chronic acid reflux esophagitis. Methods : The antioxidant activities were evaluated through radical scavenging assays using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays. CARE was surgically induced in 5-week-old male SD rats by ligating the border between forestomach and glandular portion with a 2-0 silk tie and covering the duodenum using 18-Fr $N{\acute{e}}laton$ catheter. To evaluate the esophageal protective effect of CRE, rats were divided into 3 groups: Nor (normal rats), Veh (chronic acid reflux esophagitis induced rats), CR (chronic acid reflux esophagitis induced rats treated with CRE 200 mg/kg body weight). Results : The administration of CRE significantly prevented the mucosal injury of the esophagus tissue and histological findings improved the esophageal lesion. It has been shown that inflammation is prevented by the increase of antioxidant-related factors (Nrf-2, HO-1, SOD, catalase, and GPx-1/2) through the antioxidant pathway of esophageal tissue. The administration of CRE reduced the increase of serum peroxynitrite ($ONOO^-$) and markedly reduced the protein expression of inflammatory mediator such as $NF-{\kappa}Bp65$, $p-I{\kappa}B{\alpha}$, iNOS, and IL-6. Conclusions : Overall, these results suggest that CRE administration confirmed the protective effect of esophageal mucosa, suggesting that it is a potential treatment for chronic acid reflux esophagitis.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.113-127
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• 2005

From the ancient times, incense was used for various usages including a means of beauty expression with flavor, a medicine for disease treatment and a device for religious event or ritual. The period of T'ang was the times when cultural and material exchanges with foreign countries were very actively made under the political openness of the Chinese nation. Here the exchanges were made mainly through inland trade, called Silk Road(絲綢之路) and marine trade routes, Incense Road(香料之路). This indicates that incense was one of the main items actively traded at that time. In addition, literatures of the T'ang period show that in the Chinese nation, a wide range of classes from the imperial family to the public used incense for many different purposes. This suggests that the culture of incense was deeply prevailed and very socially significant in T'ang. This study investigated social factors that promoted the incense culture of T'ang and the applications and types of incense widely used in the period of T'ang. First, influential religions and the openness of sex culture were main social factors that made incense culture flourish in the period of T'ang. Above all, two main religions of the Chinese nation, Buddhism and Taoism became secularized under political protection by the imperial family. As Buddhism was popularized, the Buddhist ritual of incense burning made a contribution to making public incense culture. Providing its doctrines of eternal youth and eternal life, Taoism necessarily used incense to form a Taoistic climate. The flourishment of the foresaid religion in T'ang added more fuel to that of incense culture in the Chinese nation. The openness of sex culture brought about the Inauguration of the empress, improvement in female position and free relationships between man and woman. It was accelerated by sexology as a method of eternal youth provided by Taoism. The opened culture also developed the culture of kibang where female entertainers called kinyeo consumed lots of incense for decoration and sexual desire stimulation. These open climates of T'ang society made a great contribution to making incense culture, especially for decoration, prevailed throughout the Chinese nation. Second, types of incense prevailed and widely used in the period of T'ang included olive incense, germander(廣藿香), olibnum(乳香), myrrh Resinoid(沒藥), jia Xiang(甲香), clove(丁香) and Shen xian(沈香), all of which were imported from foreign nations and had various applications. Specifically, olive incense, germander(廣藿香), olibnum(乳香) and myrrh Resinoid(沒藥) were used for religious purposes while, jia Xiang(甲香), clove(丁香) and Shen xian(沈香) for the purposes of religion and decoration. In conclusion, a number of social factors including political, religious and medical purposes and the openness of sex culture set fundamentals on which the culture of incense was extensively developed and established as a social trend in T'ang. In the Chinese nation, incense culture was not just an option for taste, but a part of life style social members needed to know. People of T'ang not only enjoyed incense mainly for purposes of religion, pleasure and make-up, but also had the wisdom to know various effects of incense, curiosity about such new things and the will to imitate and pursue alien culture, resultantly flourishing incense culture. Thus the culture of incense represented many social aspects of T'ang.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.133-162
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• 1995

Paderborn's companies, Wameling and Cassau, produce the liturgical vestments, which have much traditional artistic merit. And Kevelaerer Fahnen + Paramenten GmbH, located in Kevelater which is a place of pilgrimage of the Virgin Mary, was known to Europe, Africa, America and the Scandinavia Peninsula as the "Hidden Company" of liturgical vesments maker up to now. Paderborn and Kevelaer were the place of the center of the religious world and the Catholic ceremony during a good few centries. The Catholic liturgical vestiments of these 3 companies use versatile design, color, shape and techniques. These have not only the symbolism of religion, but also can meet our's expectations of utilization of modern textile art, art clothing and wide-all division of design. These give the understanding of symbolic meanings and harmony according to liturgical vestments to the believers. And these have an influence on mental thinking and induction of religious belief to the non-believers as the recognition and concerns about the religious art. The liturgical vestments are clothes which churchmen put on at the all ceremonial function of a mass, a sacrament, performance and a parade according to rules of church. These show the represen-tation of "Holy God" in silence and distinguish between common people and churchmen. And these represent a status and dignity of churchmen and induce majesty and respect to churchmen. Common clothes of the beginning of the Greece and Rome was developed to Christian clothes with the tendency of religion. There were no special uniforms distinguished from commen people until the Christianity was recognized officially by the Roman Emperor Constantinus at A.D.313. The color of liturgical vestments was originally white and changed to special colors according to liturgical day and each time by the Pope Innocentius at 12th century. The color and symbolic meaning of the liturgical vestments of present day was originated by the Pope St. Pius(1566-1572). Wool and Linen was used as decorations and materials in the beginnings and the special materials like silk was used after 4th century and beautiful materials made of gold thread was used at 12th century. It is expected that there is no critical changes to the liturgical vestments of future. But the development of liturgical vestments will continues slowly by the command of conservative church and will change to simple and convenient formes according to the culture, the trend of the times and the fashion of clothes. The companies of liturgical vestments develop versatile design, embroidery technique and realization of creative design for distinction of the liturgical vestments of each company and artistic progress. The cooperation of companies, artists and church will make the bright future of these 3 companies. We expect that our country will be a famous producing center of the liturgical vestments through the research and development of companies, participation of artists in religeous arts and concerts of church.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.48-65
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• 2018

The authors of this paper aim to make a record of the construction process, its symbolic meaning, and the changes in the status of the landscape plants at the Pasanseodang according to the Report on the Pasanseodang written by Park Gyu-hyun in 1874. First, the construction of Samgahun Pavilion, which is located in Myo-ri, Habin-myun, Dalsung-gun, Daegu, took about 90 years and spanned the lifetimes of Park Sungsoo, an 11th-generation descendant of Park Paengnyun (1417~1456) through to Park Kyuhyun, a 14th-generation descendant. It was called the shape of dragon, with its head facing the tail (回龍顧尾形), in feng shui. Second, the village of Pahwoe was founded in 1769, the 45th year of the reign of King Yeongjo, by Park Sungsoo for the purpose of socializing with his friends at his thatched home, and was named after his own courtesy name (Samgahun). Park Kwangseok, the second son of Park Sungsoo, built the sarangchae in 1826 and the anchae in 1869 after his marriage (in 1783). Then, Park Kyuhyun, the grandson of Park Kwangseok, built the pond and planted it with lotus flowers, and built the Hayeopjeong in 1874. The Pasanseodang, as the precursor of the Hayeopjeong, may be related with the name of the hillside region behind Samgahun. Third, a quadrangular-shaped pond with a length of 21m and a width of 15m was also built and planted with lotus flowers. In the center of the pond is a small round island that reflects the world view of the Chosun dynasty, i.e. that the sky is round and the landmass is quadrangular. Meanwhile, the name of the Hayeopjeon reflects the value system of aristocrats who lived a life of leisure and artistic indulgence. They called the eastern room "Yeeyeonhun" (怡燕軒) and the western room "Mongyangjae" (蒙養齋), names which embody their wishes for a good life as a member of the nobility and a bright future for one's descendants. Fourth, in Confucian terms, the authors infer the points of view reflected in the kinds of trees that were planted according to Confucian norms (pine tree, lotus, bamboo), the living philosophy of sustainability (willow), the ideology of seclusion and the search for peace of mind (bamboo), and relief efforts for the poor and a life of practicality (chestnut, oak, wild walnut, lacquer). The authors assert that this way of planting trees was a highly effective design feature of landscape architecture that drew on the locational and symbolic significance of the Seodang. Fifth, the majority of the trees that were initially planted withered and were replaced with different species, except for the locust and lotus, at this point. Nevertheless, a review of the process of construction, symbolic meaning, and original architectural landscape of the Samgahun is of value in demonstrating the extended symbolic meaning of their descendants in terms of the practical loss of the function of the Seodang, the values of Feng Sui (red in the east, white in the west, based on the principles of Feng Sui), the function of repelling evils spirits (kalopanax, trifoliate orange), aesthetic and practical values (sweetbrier, apricot, pear, peach, and oriental oak trees), and the prosperity of the family and the timeless value of honest poverty (silk, crape myrtle, and yew trees).

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.4-25
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• 2013

Goli-su is the innovative special kind of the embroidery technique, which combines twining and interlacing skill with metal technology and makes the loops woven to each other with a strand. The loops floating on the space of the ground look like floating veins of sculpture and give people the feeling of the openwork. This kind of characteristic has some similarities with the lacework craft of Western Europe in texture and technique style, but it has its own features different from that of Western Europe. It mainly represents the splendid gloss with metallic materials in the Embroidered cloth, such as gold foil or wire. In the 10th century, early days of Goryo, we can see the basic Goli-su structure form of its initial period in the boy motif embroidery purse unearthed from the first level of Octagonal Nine-storied Pagoda of Woljeong-sa. In the Middle period of Joseon, there are several pieces of Goli-su embroidered relic called "Battle Flag of Goryo", which was taken by the Japanese in 1592 and is now in the Japanese temple. This piece is now converted into altar-table covers. In 18~19th century, two pairs of embroidered pillows in Joseon palace were kept intact, whose time and source are very accurate. The frame of the pillows was embroidered with Goli-su veins, and some gold foil papers were inserted into the inside. The triangle motif with silk was embroidered on the pillow. The stitch in the Needle-Looped embroidery is divided into three kinds according to comprehensive classification: 1. Goli-su ; 2. Goli-Kamgi-su ; 3. Goli-Saegim-su. From the 10th century newly establishing stage to the 13th century, Goli-su has appeared variational stitches and employed 2~3 dimensional color schemes gradually. According to the research of this thesis, we can still see this stitch in the embroidery pillow, which proves that Goli-suwas still kept in Korea in the 19th century. And in terms of the research achievement of this thesis, Archetype technology of Goli-su was restored. Han Sang-soo, Important Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 80 and Master of Embroidery already recreated the Korean relics of Goli-su in Joseon Dynasty. The Needle-Looped embriodery is the overall technological result of ancestral outstanding Metal craft, Twining and Interlacing craft, and Embroidery art. We should inherit, create, and seek the new direction in modern multi-dimensional and international industry societyon the basis of these research results. We can inherit the long history of embroidering, weaving, fiber processing, and expand the applications of other craft industries, and develop new advanced additional values of new dress material, fashion technology, ornament craft and artistic design. Thus, other crafts assist each other and broaden the expressive field to pursue more diversified formative beauty and beautify our life abundantly together.

• Asia Marketing Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.1-22
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• 2013

This case focuses on Shanghai Tang, the first truly Chinese luxury brand that appeals to both Westerners and, more recently, to Chinese consumers worldwide. A visionary and wealthy businessman Sir David Tang created this company from scratch in 1994 in Hong Kong. Its story, spanned over almost two decades, has been fascinating. It went from what best a Chinese brand could be in the eyes of Westerners who love the Chinese culture, to a nearly-bankrupted company in 1998, before being acquired by Richemont, the second largest luxury group in the world. Since then, its turnaround has been spectacular with a growing appeal among Chinese luxury consumers who represent the core segment of the luxury industry today. The main objective of this case study is to formally examine how Shanghai Tang overcame its downfall and re-emerged as one the very few well- known Chinese luxury brands. More specifically, this case highlights the ways with which Shanghai Tang made a transitional change from a brand for Westerners who love the Chinese culture, to a brand for both, Westerners who love the Chinese culture and Chinese who love luxury. A close examination reveals that Shanghai Tang has followed the brand identity concept that consists of two major components: functional and emotional. The functional component for developing a luxury brand concerns all product characteristics that will make a product 'luxurious' in the eyes of the consumer, such as premium quality of cachemire from Mongolia, Chinese silk, lacquer, finest leather, porcelain, and jade in the case of Shanghai Tang. The emotional component consists of non-functional symbolic meanings of a brand. The symbolic meaning marks the major difference between a premium and a luxury brand. In the case of Shanghai Tang, its symbolic meaning refers to the Chinese culture and the brand aims to represent the best of Chinese traditions and establish itself as "the ambassador of modern Chinese style". It touches the Chinese heritage and emotions. Shanghai Tang has reinvented the modern Chinese chic by drawing back to the stylish decadence of Shanghai in the 1930s, which was then called the "Paris of the East", and this is where the brand finds inspiration to create its own myth. Once the functional and emotional components assured, Shanghai Tang has gone through a four-stage development to become the first global Chinese luxury brand: introduction, deepening, expansion, and revitalization. Introduction: David Tang discovered a market gap and had a vision to launch the first Chinese luxury brand to the world. The key success drivers for the introduction and management of a Chinese luxury brand are a solid brand identity and, above all, a creative mind, an inspired person. This was David Tang then, and this is now Raphael Le Masne de Chermont, the current Executive Chairman. Shanghai Tang combines Chinese and Western elements, which it finds to be the most sustainable platform for drawing consumers. Deepening: A major objective of the next phase is to become recognized as a luxury brand and a fashion or design authority. For this purpose, Shanghai Tang has cooperated with other well-regarded luxury and lifestyle brands such as Puma and Swarovski. It also expanded its product lines from high-end custom-made garments to music CDs and restaurant. Expansion: After the opening of his first store in Hong Kong in 1994, David Tang went on to open his second store in New York City three years later. However this New York retail operation was a financial disaster. Barely nineteen months after the opening, the store was shut down and quietly relocated to a cheaper location of Madison Avenue. Despite this failure, Shanghai Tang products found numerous followers especially among Western tourists and became "souvenir-like" must-haves. However, despite its strong brand DNA, the brand did not generate enough repeated sales and over the years the company cumulated heavy debts and became unprofitable. Revitalizing: After its purchase by Richemont in 1998, Le Masne de Chermont was appointed to lead the company, reposition the brand and undertake some major strategic changes such as revising the "Shanghai Tang" designs to appeal not only to Westerners but also to Chinese consumers, and to open new stores around the world. Since then, Shanghai Tang has become synonymous to a modern Chinese luxury lifestyle brand.