• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-34
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

• The Journal of the Institute of Internet, Broadcasting and Communication
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.101-107
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• 2009

In this paper, we describe a method of detecting emergency situation using images from surveillance cameras and propose a mobile robot tracking system for detailed examination of that situation. We are able to track a few persons and recognize their actions by an analyzing image sequences acquired from a fixed camera on all sides of buildings. When emergency situation is detected, a mobile robot moves and closely examines the place where the emergency is occurred. In order to recognize actions of a few persons using a sequence of images from surveillance cameras images, we need to track and manage a list of the regions which are regarded as human appearances. Interest regions are segmented from the background using MOG(Mixture of Gaussian) model and continuously tracked using appearance model in a single image. Then we construct a MHI(Motion History Image) for a tracked person using silhouette information of region blobs and model actions. Emergency situation is finally detected by applying these information to neural network. And we also implement mobile robot tracking technology using the distance between the person and a mobile robot.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.169-180
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.371-385
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• 2013

This study considers types of expression and examines aesthetic characteristics through analyzing designs (such as the Coca-Cola contour bottle as fashion) which has actively progressed in the collaboration of fashion designers and fashion brands. The conclusions of this study are as follows. The types of fashion expression on the Coca-Cola contour bottle are a presentation of diverse fashion images through a digital print expression that allow people-friendly images to be three-dimensional (or by adding a formative element) and the use of accessories or clothes. The symbolism characteristic were first indicated for the aesthetic characteristics on the Coca-Cola contour bottle. Symbolism is indicated through the identification of an implicit meaning towards a specific object. The symbolism of fashion was highlighted by designing the Coca-Cola's contour bottle with a typical material and pattern pursued by fashion designers and fashion brands. Second, the characteristic of playfulness was presented to expresses the instinctive desire in human nature for pleasure. The expression of visual playfulness is emphasized through the combination of item and image or by changing and re-analyzing a form through refuting stereotypes. Third, the characteristic of femininity was shown to express beauty in external image or a woman's delicate and soft inner propensity. Femininity was created by presenting a sensual femininity that recognized the voluminous curve silhouette of the Coca-Cola bottle such as a sexy female body or through the combination of a women's inner beauty with the sensory image of the object.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1003-1016
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to reorganize any rusty image including natural modeling characteristic presented from the natural phenomenon to certain patterns in order to create the fashion design that are valued in the expansion of independently expressional area and modeling art. As a method for research, the author analyzed the concept and characteristic for rust with a base of theoretical background by the documental research and realistic consideration, analyzed its modeling characteristic through domestic and overseas pictures, and e-documents as data, inspected the modeling activities of various categories that various images were adapted related to rust, looked into the concept of Digital Textile Printing and its producing procedure as an expressional method, and analyzed the examples of modern dress and its ornament making use of Digital Textile Printing. The conclusions of this study are as below. First, the rust occurred due to the natural phenomenon is the bond with different material like metal, each unique modeling characteristic occurs and harmony of various patterns has abundant aesthetic value. Second, the author could endowed sensible characteristic and speciality with works and could produce creative fashion design that painting, abstractive pattern and harmony of unique sense of colors are significant by using the image of rust, Third, to emphasize natural feeling of rust, the author could develop creative design that simple silhouette and impressive pattern look significant by reorganizing and applying rust according to repetition, increment, rhythm, contract, emphasis and harmony. Fourth, Digital Textile Printing method is used to induce visual effect by the expression of feels of rust, and the author could express the natural patterns, delicate expression for the feels of a material and unique design of emotion.

• Journal of the Institute of Electronics Engineers of Korea SP
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• v.44 no.6
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• pp.84-92
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• 2007

The gait recognition is presented for human identification from a sequence of noisy silhouettes segmented from video by capturing at a distance. The proposed gait recognition algorithm gives better performance than the baseline algorithm because of segmentation of the object by using multiple modules; i) motion detection, ii) object region detection, iii) head detection, and iv) active shape models, which solve the baseline algorithm#s problems to make background, to remove shadow, and to be better recognition rates. For the experiment, we used the HumanID Gait Challenge data set, which is the largest gait benchmarking data set with 122 objects, For realistic simulation we use various values for the following parameters; i) viewpoint, ii) shoe, iii) surface, iv) carrying condition, and v) time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.137-152
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to research on concept, consisting factors, and specialties of theme park' character costumes to understand better about character costumes as well as to establish fundamental research data. The characteristics of character costumes in the theme park are as follows. First, theme park' character costumes are personified so that visitors may feel friendly and have emotional communication with them. Specially, costume that anthropomorphize an animal(85.3%) and silhouette of lozenge style(86.8%) dominated the highest weight. Animal figures are walking upright and wearing human's clothes. They communicate with visitors using mime actions. Second, various types of body proportion is applied to highlight the characteristics of character costume. Most character costumes are applied with unrealistic body proportion. This unrealistic body proportion give abnormal image and looks funny. The important factor is size of their head. Especially, 3.5 body proportion(78.9%) is general. Third, simplification, exaggeration, shrinkage, and modification are other factors. Simplification is applied differently by parts. Pocket, collar details are simplified to clarify the character's image. More simplification can lead to ommission. For their head, peculiar parts look stand out but other parts are simplified to stress their characteristics. Exaggeration is used with shrinkage to give strong impression to visitors. Forms are broken intentionally and they are modified. They look impressive because they are not harmonized. It is unexpected image and induces humor and familiar feelings. Matter of stylization includes exaggeration, shrinkage, modification and movement of actors that have tangible factor of character costume.