• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.5 s.54
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• pp.25-31
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• 2003

Numerical experiments have been conducted using the nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction model, in order to analyze the generation characteristics of stem wave, which is formed by the interaction between vertical structure and the oblique incident waves. The results of stem wave are discussed through the stem wave height distribution along/normal vertical structure, under the wide range of incident wave conditions-wave heights, periods, depths, and angles. Under the same wave height and period, the larger the incident wave angle, the higher the stem wave heights. According to the results of wave height distribution, in front of vertical structure, the maximum of stern wave heights occurs in the location bordering the vertical wall. Furthermore, the most significant result is that stem waves occur under the incident angles between $0^{\circ}\;and\;30^{\circ}$, and the stem wave height ratio has the maximum value, which is approximately 1.85 times the incident wave height when the incident wave angle becomes $23^{\circ}$.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.179-192
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• 2021

In this study, an integrated wave model from global to coastal scales was developed to improve the operational wave prediction performance of the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). In this system, the wave model was upgraded to the WaveWatch III version 6.07 with the improved parameterization of the source term. Considering the increased resolution of the wind input field and the introduction of the high-performance KMA 5^th Supercomputer, the spatial resolution of global and regional wave models has been doubled compared to the operational model. The physical processes and coefficients of the wave model were optimized for the current KMA global atmospheric forecasting system, the Korean Integrated Model (KIM), which is being operated since April 2020. Based on the sensitivity experiment results, the wind-wave growth parameter (β_max) for the global wave model was determined to be 1.33 with the lowest root mean square errors (RMSE). The value of β_max showed the lowest error when applied to regional/coastal wave models for the period of the typhoon season when strong winds occur. Applying the new system to the case of August 2020, the RMSE for the 48-hour significant wave height prediction was reduced by 13.4 to 17.7% compared to the existing KMA operating model. The new integrated wave prediction system plans to replace the KMA operating model after long-term verification.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.109-115
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• 2016

The trend in appearance of storm waves on the east coast of Korea was investigated based on long-term wave data observed at six different stations. At the four wave stations of KIOST (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, and Jinha), no notable trend was found during the observation period with respect to the annual average and maximum values of the significant wave height. In addition, the annual number of the appearance of storm waves showed decreasing trend at the three stations except Jinha, where slightly increasing trend of the quantity was recognized. In contrast, at Donghea ocean data buoy of KMA, abruptly increasing trend was found for the annual average and maximum of the significant wave height and for the annual number of the appearance of storm waves as well, demonstrating lack of consistency in the observation data from Donghea buoy of KMA.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-69
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• 2014

Analysis frequency spectrum through observed wave data in northeastern shore, jeju island, during winter and fall, and review wave characteristics. In order to compute maximum wave height, we calculate the ratio of significant wave height to maximum wave height using the linear regression equation. In addition, for calculating JONSWAP spectrum, we assumed ${\gamma}$ value using significant wave height and peak frequency in the observation area. Consequently, the highest frequency is below 1 m in the case of significant wave height and during the first observation, the mean of height was estimated at 0.523 m and during the scend observation, it was 0.423 m. Furthermore, in peak frequency, the highest frequency was 0.12 Hz~0.15 Hz (period is nearly 6.67s~8.33s), the results of ${\gamma}$ from using significant wave height and peak frequency is 2.72 and the significant wave height calculated by straight linear regression equation was $1.635H_s$.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.107-113
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• 2002

We examined the psychophysiological effects of navigation in a virtual reality (VR). Subjects were exposed to the VR, and required to detect specific objects. Ten electrophysiological signals were recorded before, during, and after navigation in the VR. Six questionnaires on the VR experience were acquired from 45 healthy subjects. There were significant changes between the VR period and the pre-VR control period in several psychophysiological measurements. During the VR period, eye blink, skin conductance level, and alpha frequency of EEG were decreased but gamma wave were increased. Physiological changes associated with cybersickness included increased heart rate, eye blink, skin conductance response, and gamma wave and decreased photoplethysmogram and skin temperature. These results suggest an attentional change during VR navigation and activation of the autonomic nervous system for cybersickness. These findings would enhance our understanding for the psychophysiological changes during VR navigation and cybersickness.

• Water for future
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.389-397
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• 1988

For determination of the design wves at the seven selected sites in the South Sea, a method of hindcasting the past annual largest significant waves from the records of both the wind speed at the nearby weather stations and the weather charts of typhoons are utilized. The design significant waves in deep water are determined through the extremal probability analysis for three major wave directions(SW, S, SE) at each site from the annual extremal series of wave heights. Design significant wave heights with the return period of 100 years ranged between 4.6m and 8.8m with the wave period ranging between 8.2 seconds and 12.9 seconds. Through the analysis of weather maps, both the fetches for the wind directions SW-SE along the South Coast and the relationship between the wind speed at sea and the wind speed at the nearby land weather stations for seasonal winds are determined. The wind speed at sea are found to be 0.8-0.9 times the wind speed at the land stations for $U_1$>15m/s. The ratio of the duration-averaged wind speed to the maximum wind speed varies between 0.7-0.9 as a negative exponential function for the duration ranging 2< t< 13 hours.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.273-286
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• 2021

In recent years, as human casualties and property damage caused by hazardous waves have increased in the East Sea, precise wave prediction skills have become necessary. In this study, the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) third-generation numerical wave model was calibrated and optimized to enhance the accuracy of winter storm wave prediction in the East Sea. We used Source Term 6 (ST6) and physical observations from a large-scale experiment conducted in Australia and compared its results to Komen's formula, a default in SWAN. As input wind data, we used Korean Meteorological Agency's (KMA's) operational meteorological model called Regional Data Assimilation and Prediction System (RDAPS), the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts' newest 5th generation re-analysis data (ERA5), and Japanese Meteorological Agency's (JMA's) meso-scale forecasting data. We analyzed the accuracy of each model's results by comparing them to observation data. For quantitative analysis and assessment, the observed wave data for 6 locations from KMA and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) were used, and statistical analysis was conducted to assess model accuracy. As a result, ST6 models had a smaller root mean square error and higher correlation coefficient than the default model in significant wave height prediction. However, for peak wave period simulation, the results were incoherent among each model and location. In simulations with different wind data, the simulation using ERA5 for input wind datashowed the most accurate results overall but underestimated the wave height in predicting high wave events compared to the simulation using RDAPS and JMA meso-scale model. In addition, it showed that the spatial resolution of wind plays a more significant role in predicting high wave events. Nevertheless, the numerical model optimized in this study highlighted some limitations in predicting high waves that rise rapidly in time caused by meteorological events. This suggests that further research is necessary to enhance the accuracy of wave prediction in various climate conditions, such as extreme weather.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.28-36
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• 2009

Many researches have been done to define the physical parameters for the wave generation and transformation over a coastal region. However, most of these have been limited to the application of particular conditions, as they are generally too empirical. To yield more reasonable wave estimation using a spectral wave model, it is important to understand how they work for the wave estimation. This study involved a comprehensive sensitivity test against the spectral resolution and the physical source/sink terms of the spectral wave model using SWAN and TOMAWAC, which have the same physical background with several different empirical/theoretical formulations. The tests were conducted for the East Anglian coast, UK, which is characterized by a complex bathymetry due to several shoals and offshore sandbanks. For the quantitative and qualitative evaluation of the models' performance with different input conditions, the wave elements and spectrums predicted at representative sites the East Anglia coast were compared/analyzed. The spectral resolution had no significant effect on the model results, but the lowest resolution on the frequency and direction induced underestimations of the wave height and period. The bottom friction and depth-induced breaking terms produced relatively high variations in the wave prediction, depending on which formulation was applied. The terms for the quadruplet and whitecapping had little effect on the wave estimation, whereas the triads tended to predict shorter and higher waves by energy transferring to higher frequencies.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.25-47
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• 2020

A study of the wave conditions for the Asabo offshore location at the Qua Iboe oil field in Eastern Nigeria has been carried out. Statistical analysis was applied to three (3) years of data comprising spectral periods, Tp and significant wave heights, H_s. The data was divided into two (2); data from October to April represents one set of data and data from May to September represents another set of data. The results were compared with similar studies at other locations offshore of West Africa. It was found that there is an absence of direct swellwaves from the Southern Ocean reaching the location under study (the Asabo site). This work suggests that the wave system is largely emanating from the North Atlantic storms. The presence of numerous islands near the Asabo location shields the site from effects of storms from south west and therefore swells from the Southern Ocean. It is noted that the local wind has little or no contribution. An H_s maximum of 2 m is noted at the Asabo offshore location. It is found that the Weibull distribution best describes the wave distribution at Asabo. Thus, the Weibull distribution is suggested to be adequate for long term prediction of extreme waves needed for offshore design and operations at this location.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.296-306
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• 2020

It has been reported that the wave heights measured by Wave and Tide gauges (WTG) have been underestimated, and thus it is important to improve its measuring accuracy for enhancing estimation of harbor tranquility. In this study, the significant wave heights from WTG were calibrated using measured data from AWAC and Waverider buoys moored at the same four locations with the WTG. It was observed that the product of significant wave height and peak wave period, HT, was not underestimated but linearly proportional between the measurements by two instruments. This linearity was applied to develop 3^rd order polynomial functions that best represented the relationship between HT and significant wave heights measured by WTG. These functions were then applied to calibrate the WTG significant wave heights that were lower than 0.7 m, the critical value established for the low waves in this study. The results showed that the linearity between the AWAC (or Waverider buoy) and calibrated wave heights were improved, and the magnitude of underestimated WTG wave heights were increased to be more realistic. The results of this study are expected to be effectively applied for other data sets obtained by WTG only, to increase the observation accuracy of WTG and to improve the estimation of harbor tranquility.