• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.49-66
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• 1999

The bisexuality deconstructivity and diversity that are great characteristics on the comtemporary fashion are showed in the fashion collections. The purpose of this paper is to investigate and analyze the influence of these characteristics made by the post modern-feminism fashion through the cultural pattern analysis. The post modern-feminism was analyzed by dividing the cultural pattern into 1) the deconstructivity of androcentrism -This characteristic was presented in the costume design that breaks the basic from of the line color and quality of the material showing in men's clothes. 2) By rejecting main current fashion -Subculture style appeared in main current fashion the boundary of main and anti-main current fashion was vagued and the phenomena that the identity of subgroup was weakened were showed. 3) In the coexistence of double-sided value -This characteristic was presented in the cross-dressing fashion that cut away women's slender part and men's rough part. 4) In the open-minded thought of gender -This tendency was reached an extreme from excessive exposure to design which gives the sexual stimulus. This paper is expected to be helpful to understand the contemporary fashion by treating the cultural category associated with post-modern feminism in relation to contemporary fashion and to establish the direction of 21 century fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.137-153
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• 2015

This paper aims at developing an analytic model for examining fashion designer's creativity. This research developed the analytic model of fashion designer's creativity adding the specificity of the fashion area to The Systems Model of Creativity by Csikszentmihalyi & Gardener. The analytic model of fashion designer's creativity is composed of 3 elements: the fashion designer, the fashion domain and the fashion field. The detail factors to be examined by each of the elements are as follows. In the dimension of an individual fashion designer, detail factors influencing the manifestation of creativity contain cognitive and non-cognitive abilities (i.e: personality traits, erotic capital) and socio-psychological factors (i.e: family condition, sexual identity, marital status, health). In the dimension of the fashion domain, creativity factors are composed of socio-cultural contexts and paradigms. In the dimension of the fashion field, detail factors refer to a mentor, supporter, competitor and a follower. Fashion designer's creativity manifests itself when detail factors of an individual fashion designer, fashion domain and field interact with each other dynamically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.158-171
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• 2008

The purpose of the study was to examine how changes of women's sexual identity and gender role were expressed in designs of dance costumes by analyzing costumes used in creative dance works. Related articles, dance magazines, Internet information and dance costumes were used for the analysis of various performance cases to express persona and animus of a woman. The results of the study were as follows: 1. As a woman's role, persona, has recently changed into active propensity, dance directors have come to prefer bold and daring image of female dancer to strongly express animus, the masculine inclination of a woman. 2. Female dancers' costumes were frequently associated with daring body exposure such as body painting on half-naked body, to reflect the above and a number of female dancers dressed daringly in masculine style trom head to toe. Also, pants or hot pants instead of skirt were frequently used as dance costumes to symbolize animus. In addition, colors in dance costumes became vivid and bold in comparison to the simple and soft colors used in the past.

• 기호학연구
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• no.54
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• pp.37-63
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• 2018

In this study, we tried to represent representative animals in traditional dance and study about cultural symbolic representations that symbolize them, thus meaning Korean worship of animal worship and philosophy of life and discuss the identity of Korean traditional art. This is to ask fundamental questions about Korean culture and art, and to express the cultural philosophical reason for the representation of animal imitation. Therefore, Korean animal imitation dance was able to get a glimpse of Koreans' recognition of artistic value which is reflected in dance beyond simple cultural code. In other words, it was found that not only magic and sexual metaphors but also the adaptive attitude through natural friendly life and the ethical practice in reality were inspired by artistic aesthetics.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.55 no.6
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• pp.993-1011
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• 2009

Generally, the parts narrated by Esther in Bleak House has been considered less convincing and reliable than those by the anonymous narrator for some problematic qualities in her character and narration. However, Esther's narrative shows Dickens' masterly depiction of emotional deprivation, the psychic consequences of the Victorian sexual repression on its victim. Therefore, to restore the reliability of Esther's narrative is the prerequisite for claiming its value as an appropriate locus of the meanings of the text. On the other hand, the anonymous narrator is not so omniscient as he has been regarded. As the chapters proceed, his omniscient power and authority is conspicuously weakened, and even transferred to other characters such as Esther and Mr. Bucket. This shows that the identity of the omniscient voice is unstable and that Dickens does not intend his voice to be the sole center of meanings of the text. In short, these two narratives are the necessary partners in imagining and understanding the society in its wholeness. Alternating and sometimes intersecting each other throughout the novel, these opposing viewpoints make us see the contradictory multi-leveledness of the Victorian society. The equality of them implies Dickens' notion that more than single unified voice is needed to portray ideological conflicts of his age.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.727-738
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• 2020

This study focused on popular YouTube subculture content and male YouTuber characteristics. We conducted a case study on YouTube videos and viewer's comments of male YouTubers who interacted with subculture or fashion themes within YouTube. Based on Dick Hebdige's subculture theory, we categorized male subculture characteristics of style expression to show how YouTube plays a role in the formation of subculture. The representative types of male subculture were divided into metro sexual, adolescent boys, drag queen, and homosexual. YouTube simultaneously played a role in accumulating video viewing as well as indirect experiences in various communication activities and cultures among viewers. YouTube was used as a space for video producers as well as viewers and subscribers to discover and build identity. Subculture makes people aware of cultural diversity within society, and their doubles and lifestyles serve as important clues to track culture and fashion changes. This research is significant in the field of fashion media and subculture research due to its examination of male subculture phenomenon on YouTube based on an analysis of the video content of culture insiders and viewers' comments as well as immediate responses.

• The Plant Pathology Journal
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.78-89
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• 2022

Phaeosphaeria species are pathogenic on wheat, barley and a wide range of wild grasses. To analyze mating type loci of the Phaeosphaeria species and investigate mating type distribution in Iran, we sequenced mating type loci of 273 Phaeosphaeria isolates including 67 isolates obtained from symptomatic leaves and ears of wheat, barley, and wild grasses from two wheat growing region in Iran as well as 206 isolates from our collection from other regions in Iran which were isolated in our previous studies. Mating type genes phylogeny was successfully used to determine the species identity and relationships among isolates within the Phaeosphaeria spp. complex. In this study, we reported seven new host records for Phaeosphaeria species and the Phaeosphaeria avenaria f. sp. tritici 3 group was first reported from Iran in this study. Mating type distribution among Phaeosphaeria species was determined. Both mating types were present in all sampling regions from Iran. We observed skewed distribution of mating types in one region (Kohgiluyeh va Boyer-Ahmad) and equal distribution in the other region (Bushehr). However, when considering our entire dataset of 273 Iranian Phaeosphaeria isolates, the ratio of mating types was not deviated significantly from 1:1 suggesting possibilities for isolates of opposite mating type to interact and reproduce sexually, although the sexual cycle may infrequently occur in some regions especially when the climatic conditions are unfavorable for teleomorph development.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.203-218
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• 2007

The early eighteenth century witnessed the birth of homosexuality as an identity and the emergence of a homosexual subculture in Britain. The homosexual subculture revealed itself through identified walkways and parks, gestures by which men might signal their interests to each other, and meeting places called "molly houses" where homosexuals could gather in relative safety. As early as 1703 the homosexuals seem to have overrun London. Homosexuals in eighteenth-century Britain provides a figure on which a variety of social anxieties could be displaced. Homosexuality is partly sexual transgression; mostly, it represents a variety of class, national, political transgressions. The association of British homosexuality with the fashion for Italian tastes was commonplace, and the growth of homosexuality was regarded as the greatest threat to the glorious Britain by destroying all its masculine virtues. Homosexuality was widely believed to be particularly common among the aristocracy and to be symptomatic of the increasing depravity of that class. The radicals in eighteenth-century Britain did not hesitate to exploit the surge in homophobia. They identified aristocratic patronage as one of the aristocratic practices that encouraged homosexuality and thus stigmatized the sort of male bonding that helped sustain aristocratic hegemony.

• The Journal of the Society of Korean Medicine Diagnostics
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.36-45
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• 2006

Background and purpose: Well being which emphasizes peace of mind and richness of spirit, has been already used from several thousands years ago, as the name of Yangsaeng(養生) when we regard it in the view point of oriental medicine. Yangsaeng means a person's daily life according to natural rules in order to compensate his essence qi spirit(精氣神) and to prevent and cure his disease for his long life, and there are environment, spirit, qigong, food, dwelling labor, sleeping and sexual intercourse as its methods. But in Korea, we are mainly using the health and concept of the health management and use of it, with the one developed in Western. Thus, in this study, literature study was made for the situation of research and feature of Yangsaeng method. Among them, I tried to study mainly on adapting method of Exercise Yangsaeng and its possibility which can derive harmonious development of Spirit and body for human body, in the view point of identity(整體觀). Methods: Diploma thesis and words of 'Yangsaeng', 'exercise cure', 'exercise therapy', and 'exercise prescription', in 'KERIS(Korea Education & Research Iformation Service).' Results and conclusion: In this study, in order to adapt oriental method of Yangsaeng to the reality, I selected and researched only Exercise Yangsaeng among various Yangsaeng methods including environment, spirit, qigong, food, dwelling labor, sleeping and sexual intercourse. The Exercise Yangsaeng has its advantage that it ran train both mind and body as well as it has various programs, but it is regarded at it is in need of more study as lows; First, it requires assessment on the effect of construction itself as well as degree management of Excercise Yangsaeng as a method of exercise which is being done in daily life or in the literature. Second, above all, standardization of Yangsaeng Exercise and specialized programs are required in order to introduce the Exercise Yangsaeng which was verified for its effect, to the cure of disease. Third, researches are required for the system of assessment management for measurement of relative effect of standardized programs. fourth, continuous compensation is required in the future by adapting researched and developed programs into the field.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.33-45
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• 2003

This is a study that examines the fashion changes in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. Starting from defining the concept and the developing process of subculture, this study traces the history of subcultural styles from 1930s to 1990s, focusing on the way each generation resisted the main stream through its styles. This study is intended to provide a theoretical frame on the understanding of subcultural styles, with a close examination of its formative and developing process and characteristics. This study understands subcultural style as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity, and, as a result, realizes in the form of fashion its repressed subconsciousness, resistance to the alienation from the society, and deviation from the normative ethics and morality of a society. The four types of subcultural styles presented in chapter 4 are based on their form of resistance, and they are classified and analyzed as follows: The first type is revision, which tries to revise and change the given form by adding new elements. There are two kinds of revision, one is dressing up, which dresses for success, and the other is minimal dressing. Hyperbole is the second type, which resists by emphasizing or hyperbolizing the main stream with its erotic, nihilistic, or dynamic forms. Two kinds of hyperbole are examined, one is hyperbole of masculinity, and the other is ostentatious hyperbole. The third type is reversal and rejection, which reverses the forms from the established sign system into its own secret code, or rejects the traditional taboos. This type include no dressing, and the reversal of sex identity. Isolation and redrawal is the fourth type, which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day. This type is divided into dressing of the escape from time, and dressing of the escape from space. The first group of this type is characterized by nostalgia or futurism. An emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space. In conclusion, it can be said that subcultural style puts the foremost importance on individual freedom. Since 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural styles and high fashion gets somewhat blurred, while the liberal, sexual, life stylistic tension between the two groups are heightened.