• 한국의류학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.89-94
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• 1977

This is a study of the history and the changes of methods of making shroud from Koryo up to present. Korea is Known as a country of East with its courtious people, and naturally the people observed the proprieties, especially on the funeral, in performing religious services and worshiping of the ancestors. Since Koryo and Yi Dynasty, because of the complexcity of the formalities under the confucianism, the shroud also became very complex. The process of making shroud was various according to the classes and economical circumstances. They made shroud of fine textured hemp cloth or silk, selecting one of 'good days' in leap year. As they believed the shroud should be rotten as soon as possible, fine textured hemp cloth was common as for the material. The color of the shroud was either plain or colored as the casual wears. In sewing shroud, the thread shouldn't be knotted nor connected in each seam and the strips should not be even numbered. These methods of making shroud have been changed variously and symplified according to the economical circumstances up to now.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.303-311
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• 1998

We developed a pattern drafting computer program using a popular CAD program for the purpose of the automatic manufacturing and education based on the concept of the easy -order-system which can easily reflect body characteristics and design favors of individuals to the ready-made clothing. The programs were written in Auto LISP which can utilise most of frictions of the Auto CAD, and the result of the design for an full-pleated skirt was shown. Also, we devised an easy way to set the location of reference points by inputting of tangential angle only for the use of the cubic spline curve which can represent body shape very well. Finally, by marking down all of symbols needed in manufacturing process, we completed the automatic pattern drafting program to make it useful as an industrial pattern without any amendment or correction in cutting and sewing operation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• 한국기계가공학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.160-168
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• 2018

Among the components of rotary hooks, a core component of an embroidery sewing system, a study was conducted to apply metal injection molding to the manufacture of a hook body and a housing that was very difficult to mechanical working. The correlation of feedstock, a mixture of binder and SCM 415 metal powder, and properties of the pressure-volume-temperature interrelationship, viscosity, specific heat, and thermal conductivity were measured. Injection molds for the hook body and the housing were developed through injection molding analysis using these properties and conducted injection tests. Optimal injection gate position and number, injection pressure, and injection time were obtained through a comparison of analysis results with the experiment results.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.35-40
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• 1981

This study aims at finding appropriate adhesive conditions with special regard the material of 'fusible padding cloth inter ling' was frequently used for leather. As for leather material, pig suede, sheep suede were selected and drum dyed, cow split, napa have also been used. Mixed spinning non-woven fabric (polyester $50\%$, nylon $50\%$) were used as for padding cloth. Experimental appearance has been observed under the following adhesive conditions: Temperature of press were devided four levers; $120^{\circ}C$, $130^{\circ}C$, $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, respectively. Adhesive time has been limited 5, 10, 15 second each. And the pressure has been conditioned as $0.2kg/cm^2$ continuously. After all this experiment, it was discovered that the material which had long contact with low temperature conditions has similar adhesive power to material that has short contact with high temperature conditions. There is a great difference according to the leather's dying process, the finishing method of the cloth, and the part of leather surface. The best condition for suede are $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. and for D/D, NAPA, $130^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. Although the conditions of $150^{\circ}C$, at 15 seconds was possible for split, the process time can be shortened according to the increase of temperature.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.487-501
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• 1997

Prepurchase decision making process was investigated for the female high school students grouped by fashion leadership. Differences in the fashion leadership were also investigated among the groups determined by demographic characteristics. Data were obtained from 600 female students attending at 4 different high schools in Seoul by self-administered questionnaires, and 430 were used for the data analysis. Respondents were divided into 5 groups by fashion leadership: innovators(6.3%), early adopters(29.8%) , early majority(43.7%) , late majority(16.9%) , laggards(3.3%) , The groups with higher monthly allowances and monthly clothing expenditures showed higher fashion leadership. At the problem recognition stage, students with higher fashion leadership felt buying needs more often than those with lower fashion leadership. At the information search stage, students with higher fashion leadership tended to use higher number of information sources and mass media, visited stores more often, spent more time and collected new information more often, and tended to show higher satisfaction levels with searched information than students with lower fashion leadership. Leaders tended to search information at bonded goods stores and small shops in the area, and laggards prefered to visit small stores in the market. At the alternative evaluation stage, students with higher fashion leadership reported to use higher number of evaluative criteria and consider brand name, acknowledgment of others, becomingness with wardrobe as important criteria for evaluating apparel products; those with lower fashion leadership thought utility, comfort, size, sewing quality an6 fit as key criteria.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.135-149
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• 2014

Fur clothing as fashion items is expanding into casual & ladies's wear market as well as fur market. The interest of fur fashion is rising. So this study compares and analyzes the merchandising process of textile clothing also it of fur clothing by merchandising steps. Fur clothing has so many change factors at time of purchase by scarcity of raw material, price fluctuation, exchange rate and others. Therefore it is primarily about securing of raw material. As soon as plan of product is finished, the purchase of fur raw material has to be started while progress of design products for commercializing the fur clothing. The design of fur clothing is consist of material design, color design and shape design. And It makes a new trend & market as we are developing new & various treatments. The some of imported materials are transferred to the factory for being treated first dressing, fabric treatments and dyeing processing according to the design. The first treated materials are transferred to the sewing factory again for secondary treatments and finally inspected and shipped. During secondary treatments the fur has gone through various manufacturing process for using like fabric materials and it takes long time because almost work is running manually. Unlike fabric clothing, fur clothing's manufacturing method is complicated and various from material process to shape process as per feature. Therefore the merchandising with fur cannot make mass production also needs detail craftsmanship depending by expert's skills. On this wise the fur clothing takes long time to the completion thus it has been risky and costly.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.157-176
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• 1995

The purpose of this treatise is to study external form and internal meaning of minimal expression fashion which appeared as a major stream in modern fashion trends to understand one aspect of modernism in fashion and also to gain insight into internal value of human beings through fashion. The results can be summarized as follows : Firstly , minimalism is a trend in art attempting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means and minimal production process. Secondly, minimal expression in fashion means seeking simplicity an dpurity by using minimum design elements and minimal productive process. Thirdly, external from of minimal expression fashion can be created through application of following minimal expression techniques. 1. Minimal expression techniques in terms of line mean smooth curve flowing along body contours, straight lines of diagonal lines into desciplined silhouette or rendering internal contour lines. 2. Minimum expression techniques in terms of forms mean forms of smooth curves flowing along boyd or forms with simple geometric forms from qualitative aspects, In terms of volume it means quest for essence of pure body itself by revealing body as it is by minimizing the size of dress or its area and herein is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns.3. Minimal expression techniques by colors mean simple colors such as primary colors, colors without clear distinctions or natural colors and in terms of quantity it means quest for one color within one item of dress or combination of each items when getting dressed. 4. Minimal expression techniques in terms of fabrics mean fabrics with simple surfaced. In terms of quantity it means quest for essence of tight fitting thin textiles to human body or using transparent materials to human body thus exposing body contours as it is. 5. Minimal expression techniques in terms of productive process mean minimizing process of tailoring , sewing or ornamenting and seeking for simplicity and purity. 6. Minimal expression techniques in terms of manufacturing process mean selection of technique conveying simple image with disciplined simple image. Fourthly, minimal expression fashion with external expression as mentioned in the above lay body-priority style and its internal meaning can be asummed as quest for essence and purity of human body.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.979-986
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• 2014

This study establishes basic data for operations management by organizing processes and measuring time in the mini line for female jackets to improve productivity, ensure competitiveness, and maintain operator competency and the line process flow balance between apparel manufacturing companies. The results of this study are as follows. Sewing operations are divided into preparation functions, arrangement, partial tasks, and assembly that consist of 84 processes. The results from time measurement indicate that 3238.41seconds (sec) were required to produce a single jacket and that the average time required for operators was 231.32 sec. A control limit was established to increase the reliability of the measured value for net time. After outside values were removed, the operation time was measured to be 3176.35 sec. This accounted for 98.08% of the total operation time, with net time decreasing by 62.06. Skill and effort level coefficients were applied to measure the operator performance, the total real time was calculated to be 3415. The requirement for preparation and arrangement operations were 1233.35 sec, and 2182.22 sec for partial tasks and assembly operations. Process separation and organization were performed after the bottleneck operation was selected to identify the maximum line balance. Consequently, process efficiency of preparation and arrangement operations increased from 79.19% to 93.00%, and the partial tasks and assembly operations increased from 62.36% to 90.93%.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.65-78
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• 2013

This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.