• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.102-115
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• 2011

This study is about reproduction of Yoseon-Cheobli excavated from Byun-su tomb in earlier Joseon Dynasty. There are three Yoseon-Cheobli in Byun-su tomb. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Based on the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, the most frequently recorded one, was reproduced by dying fabric with safflower and indigo plants. Through the research about their specific size, sewing method and construction, it have been produced in the following. First, the revealing that collar to be half-square and to compose the line in the center of collar. The width of the collar is 11.6 12.1cm. Second, the 21~22 pairs of waist lines that are 13~14cm in width fixed at intervals of 0.3cm. The method of making waist lines is twisting either fabrics or silk threads. Third, fine gathering around the part of the waist of skirt, and the size of fold surface is 0.2cm. Sewing method needs running stitch and backstitch. As the result of producing the cloth, it became to possess more ornamental features after transformation suitable to the new environment while the same remained functional features for everyday life such as a dressing shape, length of the bodice and curvy completion line of a collar strip.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.183-189
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• 2014

On the basis of our previous research results concerning a batch Teflon coating process on the surface of basalt fiber which has superior fire-resistance and chemical resistance, we have tried to set up suitable operating conditions for continuous polytetrafluoroethylene(PTFE) coating process. The basalt fiber was continuously pre-treated with 7.5 wt%(6.5% of DPU) of triethoxytrifluoropropylsilane(TMTFPS) and then coated with 20 wt% of PTFE dispersions containing 0.25 wt% of penetrating agent sodium bis(2-ethylhexyl)sulfo succinate (DOS-Na) to get the highest tensile and loop strengths. After dipping process, the PTFE coated basalt fiber was dried under 2 m drying chamber at $120^{\circ}C$ with 12 m/min of winding speed and consequently sintered under 2 m sintering chamber at $380^{\circ}C$ for 40 s. Conclusively, PTFE coated basalt fiber whose tensile and loop strengths were to $3.4g_f/D$ and $2.3g_f/D$, respectively, applicable to high temperature sewing thread could be continuously prepared with our pilot scale process under optimum conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.179-191
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• 2003

The study is to suggest easier making method of skirts and slacks as to compare production process between manufacturers and references of clothing construct in universities. Skirts and slacks have simple production process and they are basic subjects in clothing construct class. But most references have just contents which are to make basic styles of skirts and slacks made basic materials. Continuous development of new material and variety of style request more efficient and easer making method in the reference of clothing construct. So the making methods of references and manufacturers are compared and analyzed in this study In references, there are many hand work and sub-work because they are for a person who make own clothes. In contrast, manufacturers have to product many variety clothes of good quality for many people and think the production cost of clothes. They use more simple and efficient method that include their know-how to meet changing fashion situation. In making methods of skirts and slacks, differences between references and manufacturer are in sewing of waist band and zippers and location of interlining. Manufacturers use variedly sewing method of waist band according to material and their experience. Especially handling for wrong side inseam of waist band is distinct between references and manufacturers. References have basic and detail work and manufacturers know processing order having even grade work to keep continuous production. The making method of clothes have to change and improve according to the situation. The more useful making method get to include their merits and references need to add more practical method and knowledge.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.104-118
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• 1997

Consumers experience various cognitive and emotional contents of clothing through postpurchase process. These experiences may affect consumer satisfaction as well as brand attitude toward clothing products. The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of consumption experiences on the brand attitude toward clothing products. The research questions for accomplishing the purpose of this study were to investigate 1) the dimension of consumption experiences, 2) relationships among consumption experience, satisfaction and brand attitude toward clothing. The sample of this study was consisted of 431 females. The survey method, and factor analysis and regression were utilized for this study. The results were as follows; First, it was found out the consumption was composed of two dimensions such as cognitive and emotional experiences. According to the result of factor analysis, the cognitive experiences through consumption process were composed of 6 factors, that is, the suitability, fitness, utility/economy, sewing, deformation, and management. And emotional experiences were composed of 5 factors, that is, unpleasure, activeycomfort, inter-oriented pleasure, extra- oriented pleasure, tension. Also emotional experiences could be composed of two dimensions, that is, positive and negative emotion. The positive emotions were included pleasure and active/comfort. The negative emotions were included unpleasure and tension. Second, the result of path analysis showed that consumption experiences were related to satisfaction and brand attitude. A satisfaction influenced on brand attitude more strongly than others. And sewing, activejcomfort, extra-oriented pleasure out of cognitive and emotional experience factors affected to brand attitude directly. Satisfaction was also influenced by cognitive and emotional factors, and was the important mediator in forming brand attitude toward clothing through consumption experience. Above results imply that consumer experience multidimensional cognitive and emotional aspects of clothing through consumption process. The cognitive and emotional aspects consisting of consumption experiences, satisfaction, and brand attitude are interrelated causally. Therefore, experience related variables could be the antecedents of satisfaction and brand attitude. The satisfaction and positive emotion could be also important factors in brand attitude toward clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.111-130
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• 2002

This study performed a structural questionnaire survey and non-structural interview of the ladies apparel manufacturers in Daegu on the qualification for the employees, skills required for job performance, job training, automatic manufacturing systems, and the use of computer. The results are as follows. 1. Almost all of the apparel manufacturing systems were Pair System, except one Line System in one company. In terms of outsourcing, most of the manufacturers answered “yes,” and in 1998 the outsourcing process was sewing, but in the year 2002, outsourcing has been increased :12 manufacturers(57.1%) outsourcing most of the processes except patterning, 3(14.3%) outsourcing the finish of sewing. 2. The workforce of 1998 and that of 2002 shows a significant difference(P＜. 01) between office work and management. The number of office workers has decreased from 15 down to 5.3 people. On the other hand, that of the management has slightly increased from 5.3 to 9.2 people. The number of the manual workers has decreased from 32.2 to 28.7 people. And the number of tailoring and patterning workers has slightly decreased, but the number has increased in sewing from 3.7 to 7.0 people. 3. The wage of an employee shows a significant difference between a sewing assistant(P＜. 01) and a production manager(P＜. 05), and the wage of a sewing assistant, in particular, has slightly raised from ￦905,000 to ￦1,054,000. 4. The qualifications required of employees are “cooperative human relations”(30.8％), “diligence,” and “ability for job analysis”(26.9％), and “positive thinking” (15.4％) in 1998, and “ability for job analysis”(38.5％), “cooperative human relations”(34.6％), and “positive thinking” (15.4％) in 2002. The areas for job openings are significantly different(P＜. 01) depending on the year. Job openings in the design section has increased from 1(3.8％) to 16 manufacturers (61.5％), and decreased in tailoring section from 22(84.6％) to 2 manufacturers(7.7％). Job openings in the sewing section have increased form 2(7.7％) to 6 manufacturers (23.1％). In terms of sex of the employees, there is a significant difference(P＜. 001). 19 companies(73.1％) wanted “male” in 1998, but 8 companies(30.8％) answered that they want “female” and 17 companies(65.4％) answered that “it does not matter.” About the educational background, there was a significant difference between the years. The number of the companies that want junior college graduates with an associate degree has increased(15 companies(57.7％). There was a significant difference(P＜. 05) in major of the employee. The number of the companies that want fashion majors has increased from 5(19.2％) to 20(76.9％). 5. In terms of job skills required, there was no significant difference. In 1998, “production skills” (46.2％) and “ability for job analysis” (26.9％) were required, and in 2002, “ability for job analysis” (42.3％) and “emotional skills” (26.9％). 6. In regard to training for job skills, “fashion professional training” has slightly decreased from 65.4％ in 1998 to 46.2％ in 2002, however, “training for job analysis” has slightly increased from 30.8％ in 1998 to 46.2％ in 2002, which indicates the fact that “fashion professional training” and “ability for job analysis” have been emphasized. 7. The number of the manufacturers purchased apparel CAD has increased from 1(3.8％) to 3(11.5％), and the number of the manufacturers that have no plan for purchase has increased from 16(61.5％) in 1998 to 15(57.7％), still taking up a big proportion. 8. About the use of computers in manufacturing, there is a significant difference(P＜. 05). The number of the manufacturers using computer has increased from 5(19.2％) to 15(57.7％) and that of the manufacturers which do not use computers has decreased from 17(57.7％) to 8(30.8％). 9. In the interviews with the owners of the manufacturers, they pointed that schools should give more weight on practical training courses, the invitation of experts in the specific field, complex production systems, training courses for sewing, field trip courses, and furthering specialty education, personality and vocational education.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.137-146
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• 2009

This study analyzed hierarchy of image for visual evaluation of flare skirt. This study analyzed expression words about flare skirt with frequency data of image expression words with different length and volume of flare. Stimuli for the study were set to be 4 different volume of flare ($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$, $360^{\circ}$) and 3 different length of skirt(48cm, 58cm, 68cm). Stimuli were made by using I-Designer which is Virtual Sewing System. From simulation of flare skirt, the subjects were asked to write down suggested adjective freely and selected 210 adjectives. With this, we chose total 38 adjectives considering frequencies in the pre-study. And we analyzed the combination process of expression words according to construction factor of flare skirt and hierarchy of image from dendrogram which was resulted by hierarchical cluster analysis. 'Feminine' got high score in all 12 flare skirt. When the skirt was short, it was vivid, and as the skirt got longer, ordinary and pure image showed. Also, as the volume of flare got larger, the average of visual effect was higher than visual image. Visual hierarchy construction according to construction factors of flare skirt could be divided into visual image and visual effect, and visual image was shown to be form 'A type - large volume of flare and short skirt length', 'H type-small volume of flare and short skirt length' and 'X type - large volume of flare and long skirt length'.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.122-130
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop the appropriate brassiere pattern for women. Total of 6 brands with same design and 75A, 80A size brassieres(total 12 brassieres) were compared and analyzed for pattern, cup size and patterns. SPSS 10.1 statistic process was used for data analysis. The outcom of this study is summarized as follows. Total length of brassiere by grade were performed smaller than the standard difference 5cm. For 1/2 front cover length, There were no significant differences between 75 and 80. The reason for lower line of wing is shorter than upper line of wing is because side support is cut side ways considering lower line of wing is sewn more toward front than upper line of wing. Even it is same A cup size most cup related sizes become larger according to underbust comparing with cup capacity, they range from 146.67cc to 172.83cc for same A cups. Among same A cups with difference underbust there was average of 26.16cc differences. For relations of material, sewing technology and expansion rate, all 6 brands had zigzag type sewing for upper line tape. For every 0.3cm height, there were $17{\sim}21$ stitches. When urethane mixture is similar expansion rate is higher while number of 1 inch zigzag are high. For elasticity, zigzag stitch expand side ways for more expansion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.77-98
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• 2024

The mourning attire worn by the Sangju (Chief Mourner) during Confucian funeral rituals is known as Gulgeonjebok. It is comprised of Gulgeon, Sujil, and Hyogeon on the head, and Jungui underneath. On top of the Jungui, the ceremonial garments called Choeui are worn, along with Choesang. Yojil and Gyodae are then tied around the waist. Mahye and Hangieon are worn on the feet, and a walking stick made of bamboo, paulownia, or willow is carried. A needlework master, Choe Onsun, who was designated as a Holder of Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollabuk-do on November 27, 1998, is recognized for her efforts in restoring and recreating the forgotten Gulgeonjebok. Thanks to her endeavors, the period, regional, and cultural characteristics of Gulgeonjebok in the Jeolla Province have been preserved. This study aims to examine and reproduce characteristic items of Gulgeonjeboks handed down by a needlework master, Choe, by conducting an empirical study on the dimensions and schematization of the Gulgeon, the method of cutting, and the sewing process. The empirical research on Gulgeojebok is expected to further enhance traditional sewing skills. It will also serve as a foundation for deepening the level of research on traditional dress and sharing traditional cultural heritage.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.935-941
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to survey fabric knowledge about apparel products, and to identify not only clothing purchase criteria but the impact of fabrics on the decision-making process in clothing purchase. The 234 questionnaires were distributed to university students(120 males, 114 females), and were analyzed by frequencies, t-test, $x^{2}$ and ANOVA. The results are as follows: 1) The students had apparel fabrics knowledge above the average, and there were partially significant differences in the knowledge by genders. 2) They put a higher priority, in purchasing apparel products, on factors such as design, size, color, fabric, and price of clothing than those including ease of care, sewing, and fashion trend. 3) The consideration of fabrics influenced a post-purchase process. 4) Male students showed less concern, except information search process, with the fabric than females in the decision-making process for clothing purchase.