• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.136-149
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• 2007

This study researched the costume manufacture process by having the musical 'Christmas Carol' as an example and specifically presented the costume manufacture process of an actually performance work, thus it aimed to be helpful theoretically and realistically, by allowing theatrical costume manufacturers and majors in theatrical costume to be informed of the systematically practical affair process of the theatrical costume manufacture and by exhibiting the research work of costume composition aiming at reproducing a silhouette in the process such as costume composition and sewing, and the effectively manufacturing methods such as the costume composition application and the sewing method development aiming at the activity of performers. In the empirical research, it analyzed the features of characters and arranged the manufacture points while actually manufacturing the performance costume, and clarified the systematically performance costume manufacture process such as a manufacture meeting${\rightarrow}$costume list preparation$\rightarrow$work-instruction sheet preparation$\rightarrow$pattern manufacture$\rightarrow$sewing$\rightarrow$performance and inspection. Through performing the manufacture of the really performance work, it is hoped that this study contributes to the development of performance art circles, by presenting a step and a method of professionally theatrical costume to the performance manufacturers and the theatrical costume manufacturers at present when the theatrical costume is solidifying its position as a professional sphere, in the performance and an, has a meaning as the initially empirical research, which can exhibit as a guide of realistically and empirically educational contents for theatrical costume aiming to bring up professional staff for theatrical costume, and becomes help in the efficiently theatrical costume manufacture realistically.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.63-73
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• 2008

From the ancient Korea to the late Joseon Korean fur and leather had been preferred in and out of Korea for their good quality and excellent manufacturing skill. Since Unified Silla (A.D.676${\sim}$A.D.936) Korean fur and leather were manufactured divisionally by workmen specialized in materials and products, and such manufacturing process was succeeded to Goryeo and Joseon. Manufacturing of fur and leather was consisted of as follows: hunting and butchering - peeling - beating with a paddle and removing fat - oil manufacturing - drying - tanning, then cutting and sewing, and there was a special caring method. In order to make good fur and leather, each process of manufacturing needed particular techniques and all available methods were tried to have tender fur and leather by using smoking, excrement, lime, vegetable tannin and even cerebral liquid. And also required mouth-chewing and hand-pounding with a lot of time and of labor Keeping furs resilience and flexibility, sowing several skins together, even when the after-all-process skin was converted into clothes, was much more difficult than sewing fabric. Thus, the manufacturing cost was as much expensive as skin materials, and the volume of manufacturing of fur and leather was also limited. Therefore, fur and leather must have been popular for scarcity value in the manufacturing process, and this scarcity must have caused an extreme luxury of fur.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.20-24
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• 2001

The primary objective of this study was to empirically explore the mechanical properties of marketing Korean fabrics by using KES-FB system and estimate the sewability of Korean clothes by the mechanical properties. From the empirical research, it was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has been transformed easier and less flexible by shearing Korean fabrics for autumn and winter. Also, it was found that there is a significant difference in the hand value as tensile, surface and compression. It was found that Korean fabrics for spring and summer has a stiffness and elastic properties of matter and Korean fabrics for autumn and winter has a bulky and abundant elasticity. Finally, it was found that Korean fabrics for autumn and summer in the joint of account of the mechanical properties. Also, the difficulties of process has been expected by sewability like seam-pucker, over feed, sewing and steam-press.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.769-781
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• 1997

The purpose of this research is to show how to use the patternist's CAD system in order to make design patterns efficiantly. Using the PAD System Technologies company's PAD System Module, which is very officiant in designing patterns, the basic pattern or design pattern can be designed and applyed to the Sample Module, thus, then it could manufacture, retouch or choose a model, making it posible to go to the next level which is seam patterns for industrial use. By understanding the change of the design that is chosen through the design pattern making and Sample Module process', this study is presentated a plan on how to utilize the patternist's working adaption ability by the CAD system, and also considered the problems in using it. Ability of Design Confrontation of CAD System: 1) The result of an operation can be saved and retouched. On a saved list the patterns can be chosen and changed, thus, making it posible to complete a design very quickly. 2) When sewing every designed pattern in Sample Module, the model can be operated merely by selecting each sewing position, thus creating the same effect of a designer's muslin sample process in a much lesser time. Point at issue in the utilization CAD system: 1) When combining two darts into one place the amounts of darts that are already these have to be erasers, and then, the two darts points are moved that place, thus, containing them, which is very conplicated. 2) When making a gathering, because system can only be recognized in a opend line, the pattern should be separated in order to put a gathering inside a pattern. 3) In order to readjust the amounte of dart. The dart is erased first and then made new dart again. 4) When making tucks in a Sample Module, the form that gets narrow towards the pivot point can not be recognized so the sewing lines of the tucks is adjusted into parallel lines. 5) The Sample Module 3D operation can not attach the bodice to the shirts, instead they become fixed into each other. In the case of shoulder line tucks the amounts of pleats can not be expanded draperary naturally, thus, making it hard to showing the silhouette accurately. If these problems are solved, especially if the silhouette of a model can be created to have natural drapery in the 3D Module, models can be shown on the screen in possible to compare and examine even a change of a detail, by designing this 3D Module Production sample process will be more effective, thus, making the CAD system more useful in sewing design process.

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.27-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to make it easy to reproduce the Pattern and sewing technique of men's coat in 18th century. which are modified in order to be made readily available in Korean theatre costume. The investigation was performed in three steps. 1st, The papers and records about development and change of men's coats were reviewed. End; The whole process of the way how to make a typical 18th century men's coats were sewn. 3rd ; The modification or revision into the more simplified pattern using by CAD system and sewing technique were suggested in detail. The size of the pattern in the original one, which we chose for this research, was generally small. with the side line being moved back a little. Moreover, arm movements were severely restricted because of the small arm-hole. The problems of original pattern were corrected by making both front and back pattern snug and side line being moved to the front, and making arm-hole wider. In the sewing technique, the simple way how to use of Padding, inter-linings and linings and to create the most noticeable figure of 18th century men's coat. This article may help theatre costume production in Korean performing art.

• 대한안전경영과학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.377-388
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• 2014

There have been a lot of studies about overseas factory location in order to meet various needs of industries according to the international economic developments. However, most of the studies were written about generic theory for general industries or mainly concerned to high capital industries. This study is focusing on the sewing and apparel industries which represent labor intensive and small-medium type of enterprises. For this study, AHP(Analytic Hierarchy Process) methods were applied to make proper analysis after wide range of survey to clarify determinants which provide a guidance for overseas factory location. As a result of the analytical researches done in the thesis the most important which should be taken consideration while determining of overseas factory location for sewing and apparel products industry are as follows - economic factors(0.569), geographic factors(0.171), social and cultural factors(0.157), regulations and institutional factors(0.103). In the last, S company is examined for example to show how this determinants have practically been applied.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.71-76
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• 2003

We evaluated the seam characteristics with finishing, seaming and sealing processes and seam Puckering behavior of the breathable waterproof fabrics with laser scan. There were differences in 99% significant level between the seamed fabric and the sealed fabric. Seam breakage was initiated with the breakage of sewing thread, so the seam strength after seaming was almost uniform. The sewn seam strength and elongation increased with sealing process in all finishing methods. Pucker grade of laminating type was generally much higher than that of the coating type. We confirmed that wave length and amplitude have more important meaning than the number of weave in the breathable waterproof fabrics. The puckering in breathable waterproof fabrics is mainly occurred by inherent and feeding pucker. The former if due to the insertion of sewing thread and the littler is caused by differential feeding when two pieces of fabric are fed into the gap between a press foot and needle plate.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2003년도 봄 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.402-403
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• 2003

Garment manufacture represents the final stage of processing a finished fabric. The main task of the garment manufacturer is to produce shell structures out of flat fabrics to match the shape of the human body, and the most acceptable means of joining textile materials for apparel use is by sewing. On the sewing process, the bottom layer is pushed forward by the feed-dog, but the presser foot tends to retard the passage of the top layer. Since the friction between the layers is low, is possible that the components will move out of phase and pucker. (omitted)

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 1997년도 추계총회 및 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.325-329
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• 1997