• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권8호
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• pp.991-1005
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• 2011

This study researches the historical production, process, and design method for 3 pairs of corsets in $18^{th}$ century France. In the analytical stage of historical materials, it grasped the kind, form, origin, and change in style through a lexical definition of relevant terms. Through a precedent study on Garsault's 'L'art du tailleur', preservation costume, and historical reconstruction of pattern in preservation costume, it confirmed corps size, silhouette, pattern form, and material for historical production. The sewing method and the producing sequence were analyzed. In the production stage, 3 selective models in corps plein baleine, corps demi-baleine, and corset were historically produced. With neckline of forming broad Letter U, the bust part is covered roundly. The bodice was composed of 10 panels based on the corps form in the mid-$18^{th}$ century of following a curve of a human body. A shoulder strap was allowed to make the arm movement comfortable by producing and attaching it separately. The cutting line except the center in the front and the back of vertical line was distributed according to the natural flow of a form and movement of the human body. The curve-based pattern line was confirmed.

• 한국문헌정보학회지
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• 제23권
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• pp.63-106
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• 1992

The opening period of Korea was the period of modernisation amidst the conflicts between conservative and progressive sections with penetration of Western powers after 1876. With the opening modernisation accompanied modernisation of education. Missionary schools established by protestant missionaries played a crucial role in educational modernisation in the period of opening. In this article, the process of educational modernisation and the ways in which the ideas of democracy and equality were taught in the earliest schools, Paejae, Ewha, Kyoungsin and Chungsin are analysed through the method of bibliographical investigation of the textbooks used by these schools. No textbook prior to 1900 was found and in general there were no textbooks such as we know today. Usually English reading material and the Bible were the main teaching materials. Teachers kept their own copies of hand-written texts which were translated versions of American textbook. Since the same teacher taught in a number of schools, they shared same curriculum. In the early period, English Bible was taught so that English and the Bible lessons were not separated but gradually history and geography were added. Teaching of Hangul, and Korean history were added to encourage the sense of national identity and patriotism. In the case of Chungsin, for biology class, pupils were sent to Che-jung-won to learn human physiology, chemistry and physics, which shows an emphasis on science education. Vocational education was carried out; in the case of Paejae, a printing workshop was set up enabling students to earn some money at the same time as learning. Also in Kyungsin, skills of woodwork and basket weaving were stressed. Ewha also held a bazaar of the work made in sewing classes. Establishment of missionary schools brought about a great contribution in modernising Korean society and the Christian spiritual education of these schools lay the foundation for building democracy in Korea.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.294-301
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• 2013

Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.300-312
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• 2014

This study seeks to offer practical suggestions for manufacturing jacket lining patterns through research on menswear brands. A researcher conducted interviews with a survey instrument targeting 12 menswear brands. To analyze the data, descriptive statistics were obtained using SPSS 18.0. The main findings were as follows. First, regarding lining production, most menswear brands were found to provide jacket lining patterns to their subcontractors, and pattern makers were found to design lining patterns based on their own know-how. The most important factor in the production of jacket lining patterns is whether linings are cut more than once during the sewing process. For suit jackets, linings are cut more than once, and for casual jackets, linings are cut once. Second, with regard to jacket production for different jacket styles, most menswear brands were found to use patterns that include seam allowance. Partial linings showed differences in terms of the methods used to sew edges and attach linings to the outer shell. Third, extra space in jacket lining patterns varied according to style. Jacket lining patterns for suit jackets and casual jackets showed differences in extra space in the following areas: the parts that cover the chest(suit jacket linings: 5.6cm, casual jacket linings: 2.4cm), the parts that cover the waist(suit jacket linings: 3.8cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), hem(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), and bicep(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.1cm). However, extra space in the sleeve hems was identical for the two styles(suit jacket linings: 0.1cm, casual jacket linings: 0.1cm). Therefore, this research suggests that clothing manufacturers design linings in accordance with the jacket lining production style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.140-156
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to review and establish the three concepts of upcycling, zero-waste fashion design, and regional sustainability through a review of domestic and international case studies. Furthermore, it will provide the theoretical basis for using upcycling as a regional sustainability practice to create zero-waste fashion design. To conduct an empirical study, we systematized the stages of the survey on waste resources in Changsin-dong, the sourcing and utilization of waste resources, the design-planning stage, and the co-production with pattern and sewing masters as a suggested practice for regional sustainability. Through this study, we propose the possibility of regional sustainability by developing and sharing the method of zero-waste fashion design. The conclusion of the study as follows: First, upcycling fashion designs can be extended to a regional sustainability practice by taking the characteristics of social design into account. Second, by providing a design development process and methodology suitable for regional sustainability application, it is helpful to revitalize regional upcycling fashion brands and communities by providing data for upcycled fashion branding. Third, as part of the revitalization project for the Chang-shin and Soongin areas that started in 2014, using the region's economic, cultural, and environmental characteristics to make and sell high-value, upcycled fashion products will contribute to social and economic achievements and aid in solving regional problems.

• 한국정보통신학회논문지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1447-1452
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• 2022

세계 10대 도시이며 Metro City인 서울특별시는 인쇄, 봉제, 기계금속 등 전통적인 도심제조업이 분포되어있다. 이들 제조업 집적지 내 소상공인은 서로 상부상조 하는 형태로 발전해왔다. 집적지의 특성상 각 공정은 개별 업체가 담당한다. 상대적으로 영세한 소상공인이 공정 간 실시간 물류 이동 정보를 제공하는 주문처리 서비스를 준비하기에 어려운 현실이다. 본 논문에서는 패키지(Package) 제조 및 특수인쇄 분야 소상공인의 원활한 수주, 배송 처리를 위해 기존 물류 Data를 수집, 분석하고 CRNN, k-NN, ID3 Decision Tree algorithm을 적용한 인공지능 Fulfillment Service Platform 시스템을 설계한다. 본 연구를 통하여 집적지 소상공인 누구나 Cloud 네트워크를 통하여, 개별 수주, 배송 맞춤서비스를 사용할 수 있게 함으로써 매출 증대 및 역량 향상에 크게 기여할 것으로 기대한다.

• 한국정보통신학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국정보통신학회 2022년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.219-221
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• 2022

세계 10대 도시이며 Metro City인 서울특별시는 인쇄, 봉제, 기계금속 등 전통적인 도심제조업이 분포되어있다. 이들 제조업은 세부 업종 및 공정에 따라 소상공인 집적지를 형성해 서로 상부상조 하는 형태로 발전해왔다. 집적지의 특성상 집적지 내 각 공정별 업체 간 물류는 신속히 이루어지고 있으나 상대적으로 영세한 소상공인이 최종 단계의 완제품 수요자에 대한 주문처리 서비스를 준비하기에는 어려운 현실이다. 따라서 원활한 수주, 배송처리를 위해 집적지 상공인을 위한 통합수주 Fulfillment Service Platform 도입이 시급하다. 본 논문에서는 전통 도심산업 중 인쇄업 소상공인의 기존 Fulfillment Service data를 수집, 분석하고 CRNN, k-NN, ID3 Decision Tree algorithm을 적용한 인공지능 Fulfillment Service Platform 시스템을 설계한다. 본 연구를 통하여 집적지 소상공인 누구나 활용할 수 있는 개별 수주, 배송 맞춤서비스 사용이 가능하게 함으로써 소상공인 매출 증대 및 역량 향상에 크게 기여할 것으로 기대한다.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• 자원환경지질
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.325-337
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• 2002

백운 폐광산 주변에 방치된 폐석으로 인한 하천수 및 하상퇴적물의 중금속오염정도를 알아보고자 하였다. 광산활동과 관련되어 발생하는 주변 하천수의 Al 및 Pb, Zn, Cu, Cd, Mn, Fe 등의 중금속 및 기타 이온의 부화현상은 하천수의 TDS를 높이며 또한, 수질을 악화시키는 요인이 된다. 백운광산 주변의 하천수는 Ca와 SO$_4$가 주를 이루는 Ca-SO$_4$형을 보이며, 부분적으로 황화광물의 화학적 풍화로 인한 중금속부화현상을 보인다. 광산을 경유해서 흐르는 하천수는 알카리 및 알카리 토류원소에 의한 중화작용의 영향으로 pH는 6.S-7.1의 약산성내지 중성을 띤다 폐갱구로부터 홀러나오는 갱내수 또한 약산성 내지 중성을 띠며, 광산내의 광석과 맥석광물과의 화학적 풍화로 인해 높은 원소함량을 보인다. 백운 폐광산 주변의 하천수는 갱내수가 유입되는 지역에서 높은 농도를 보이다 하류로 갈수록 농도가 급격히 낮아진다. 이온농도가 낮아지고 pH가 중성을 띠는 것은 자연적으로 오염을 조정해주는 희석 및 침전, 흡착 등으로 인한 완충작용의 결과이다. 토양내에서 중금속의 이동성이나 생물학적 이용능력을 알아보기 위하여 단계별 추출법을 이용하여 하상퇴적물에서 Cd, Cu, Zn, Pb의 존재형태를 5가지 단계로 분류하였다: 이온교환형태, 탄산염형태, 철-망간 산화물형태, 유기물형태, 잔류상형태. 대부분의 퇴적물에서 Cu(21-92%) 및 Zn(28-89%), Pb(23-94%)는 잔류상형태가 우세하였으며, Cd는 퇴적물에서 다른 원소에 비해 낮은 농도(2.7-52.8 mg/kg)를 보여주었으나 대부분 불안정한 형태(68-97%)가 우세하였다. 상류 퇴적물에서는 폐석으로 인해 Pb의 농도가 높게 나타나며, 하류 퇴적물은 Zn이 높은 농도를 보여, Zn 과 불안정한 형태가 우세한 Cd이 이동성이 높은 원소임을 알 수 있었다.thing construction. The presentation coverages and relative difficulties of textbooks were, however, diverse. It is somewhat noticeable that, while fewer professors majoring in clothing construction participated in writing, generally more pages were allocated to clothing construction than other areas. While presentations on anthropometrics method, construction theory, draft theory, usage of sewing machine and fitting theory were insufficient most textbooks were dealing with drafting of basic slopers and sewing procedure, etc. Making-up techniques on the apparels items such as Korean traditional men's pants, pajamas, shirt vest skirt, pants, apron and Korean pouch were handled closely in each textbook.different from the one in the l980s worn by the demonstrators of popular movements and democratic movements, and it emerged as a new symbol with the characteristics of cultural movement like community consciousness and nature affiliation.